Northeastern Anatolia

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Northeastern Anatolia
Includes 
Erzurum. . . . . . . . . . . . 538
Palandöken. . . . . . . . . 542
Kaçkar Mountains . . . 542
Georgian Valleys. . . . . 552
Artvin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
Kars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 556
Ani. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
Sarıkamış. . . . . . . . . . . 565
Doğubayazıt . . . . . . . . 565
Mt Ararat
(Ağrı Dağı). . . . . . . . . . . . 568
Best Places to
Eat
¨¨Ocakbaşı Restoran (p559)
¨¨Erzurum Evleri (p541)
¨¨Çagin Caǧ Kebapcısı
(p541)
¨¨Publik Bistro (p545)
¨¨Hanimeli Kars Mutfagi
(p558)
Why Go?
If you’ve a soft spot for far-flung outposts, it’s time to discover Turkey’s greatest secret. Despite its wealth of attractions,
northeastern Anatolia remains largely untouched by even
the domestic tourist circuit, and its glorious landscapes are
refreshingly coach-party free. Particularly outside the Turkish summer holidays, you may have precipitous gorges and
expansive steppe, muscular mountains and highland pastures to yourself. No wonder the region is prime territory for
trekking (make a beeline for the Kaçkar Mountains and Mt
Ararat), white-water rafting and skiing.
Culturally, the ruins of Ani and Işhak Paşa Palace are famously romantic, and numerous secluded treasures recall
once-flourishing ancient civilisations. Palaces, castles, Georgian churches, Armenian monuments and Ottoman humpback bridges all stand in splendid isolation. For urban vibes,
Kars is a laid-back city with a Russian aesthetic – a staging
post in this region of open spaces, mountain solitude and
moody skies above the steppe.
When to Go
Erzurum
°C/°F Temp
Rainfall Inches/mm
40/104
5/125
30/86
4/100
20/68
3/75
10/50
2/50
0/32
Best Places to
Stay
¨¨Ekodanitap (p545)
¨¨Otel Doğa (p548)
¨¨Karahan Pension (p551)
¨¨Laşet Tesisleri (p555)
¨¨Hotel Cheltikov (p557)
1/25
-10/14
-20/-4
0
J
F
M
May Vivid hues
and scents as the
steppe blossoms,
and spring warmth
awakens mountain
pastures.
A
M
J
J
A
Jun–Sep Hike and
raft around the
Kaçkar Mountains,
scale Mt Ararat,
catch festivals.
S
O
N
D
Dec–Apr Ski at
Palandöken and
Sarıkamış resorts,
cross-country ski
in the Kaçkars.
538
ERZURUM & AROUND
Mongol mosques and medreses (seminaries) line the main drag. Take it all in from
atop the citadel, with mountains and steppe
forming a heavenly backdrop to the jumble
of billboards and minarets.
Erzurum is not a city resting on its
considerable laurels of historical signifi-
Erzurum
% 0442 / POP 395,000 / ELEV 1853M
N o rth e as te rn An ato lia E r z u r u m & A r o u n d
Lovers of architecture will be in paradise in
Erzurum, where fantastic Seljuk, Saltuk and
BLACK SEA
(KARADENÎZ)
Sarp
Hopa
Meydancîk
Borçka
D010
D010
Fîndîklî
Ardešen
0
0
Posof
Yaylalar
GEORGIA
Karagöl Sahara
National Park
Ardanuç Ardahan
Artvin
Çamlîhemšin
Šeytan Kalesi
Çîldîr
Doÿruyol
Çîldîr
Gölü D010
D060
Çoruh
Fîrtîna Barhal
River
Valley
Yusufeli Κhan
Olur Göle
D060
Yaylalar
Mt
Penek
Kaçkar (Hevek) Tekkale
(3937m)
Akšar
Tortum Gölü
Öškvank
Oltu
Uzundere
Šenyurt
(Uncular)
Arpaçay
Susuz
ARMENIA
Digor
Beškilise
Keçivan
Kaÿîzman
D965
Çengilli
Tuzluca
iver
Horasan
D955
Gyumri
D060
Oÿuzlu &
Kîzîl Kilise
Kars Ani
Bagnair Monastery
Sarîkamîš
D950
D080
sR
Ara
Iÿdîr Aralîk
D975
D100
Ilîca
50 km
30 miles
ERZURUM
Mt Ararat
(Aÿrî Daÿî)
(5137m)
Aÿrî
Palandöken
D100
Doÿubayazît
Diyadin
Îshak Paša
Palace
Tutak
D965
Mt Küçük
Aÿrî
(3895m)
Gürbulak
Bazargan
IRAN
Patnos
Erentepe
D300
Malazgirt
Adilcevaz
Ahlat
Muradiye
Sarîsu
(Aktepe)
D965
Göldüzü
Van Gölü
(Lake Van)
Timar
Erçek
Gölü
Erçek Özalp
Northeastern Anatolia Highlights
1 Lose yourself in the
past glories of Ani (p561),
a former Armenian capital
strewn across the steppe.
4 Cruise the yaylalar
(mountain pastures; p552)
east of Artvin, land of pine
forests and emerald slopes.
7 Meet the Kurds in
2 Trek over 3000m in the
5 Hit the summit of Mt
8 Test your mettle on a
white-water run down the
Çoruh River (p544).
6 Hang out in distinctive
Kars (p556) and discover
Georgian and Armenian
ruins nearby.
9 Rip up some powder
Kaçkar Mountains (p542),
or tackle day walks from
nearby serene villages like
Barhal and Yaylalar.
3 Experience Hemşin
culture and cuisine in the
Fırtına Valley’s (p548).
Ararat (5137m; p568),
Turkey’s highest mountain.
Doğubayazit (p565) and
explore sights like İshak
Paşa Palace.
at Palandöken (p542) ski
resort.