Turkey 14

688
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OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last
edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful
advice and interesting anecdotes:
Adele Kilpatrick, Alan Garner, Alen Lai, Andrea Lai,
Alex Thomas, Alexis krikorian, Anna Miriam Benini,
Anthony Sheppard, Arlene Renney, Bec Goodwin,
Cate Concannon, Christian Runkel, Cihan Yörükoğlu,
Claudia Tonini, Daniel Britten, David Munday, David
Neely, Dianne Hoff & Jim Stiles, Dr Ahsen Hussain,
Earl Luetzelschwab, Edwina Mullany, Elske van
Lonkhuyzen, Eric Labonne, Erica Bettiol, Erika
Chagnon-Monarque, Geoff Davies, Graham Churchman, Hasan Kemal, Isabella Cunha Soares Coelho,
Janet Bond, Jennifer Campbell, Joseph Stanik,
Julia Ward, Karen Smith, Kenn Clacher, Kerem İpek,
Koenraad Janssens, Kyle Uhlmann, Lucie Verreault,
Lynda Ozgur, Manuel Porras, Martin Zuther, Maureen
Van Duijn, Michael Jobst, Michael Moses, Morgan
Mc­Daniel, Necdet Celtek, Pau Ruiz-Sanchis, Peter
Larsson, Philip Host, Prachi Jain, Rachel Zhou, René
Rood, Ricardo Jorge Lopes, Roscoe Ward, Rovena
Aga, Sain Alizada, Sarah Österreicher, Serkan
Konuralp, Shan Chong, Simon Walo, Susan Sklar, Teri
Bergstrom, Xiaochuan Zheng, Yanqin Lin
AUTHOR THANKS
James Bainbridge
A heartfelt çok teşekkürler to everyone who
helped me on my journey around the Aegean
coves and Anatolian backwoods: in Selçuk,
Mehmet, Christine, İlker from Nazar, and Jimmy from Jimmy’s; Mr Happy in Kuşadası; Zafer
in Bodrum and everyone on the peninsula; the
guys at Ney in Marmaris; Metin in Datça; John
from Ludlow in Selimiye; Ali in İznik; Şinasi and
Uğur in Bursa; Çağrı and Deniz in Eskişehir;
Mehmet and Ummu in Pamukkale; İbrahim,
Müslüm, Munny and Birsan in Eğirdir.
Brett Atkinson
A huge thanks to Sahabattin and family in Van,
and in Gaziantep thanks to Jale and Filiz for the
trip’s definite culinary highlights. In the Kaçkars
it’s always a pleasure to see Mehmet and İdris
amid glorious mountain scenery, and around
Urfa and Gollu I really enjoyed the company
of Mary (and her Mum). At LP, cheers to my
fellow scribes and the hardworking editors and
cartos, and final thanks to Carol for holding the
fort back home in Yeni Zelanda.
6 89
Stuart Butler
Steve Fallon
Didi madlobat/çok teşekkürler to those who
provided assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way: Salih Mutlu in Alaçatı;
Mamuka Berdzenishvili & Maya Gavrilyuk in
Batumi; Ece Alton in Behramkale; staff at Les
Les Pergamon, Bergama; Volkan Pehlivan in
Bozcaada; Bayram at Sakız Alsancak, İzmir;
Mehmet & Ummu Gulec in Pamukkale; Akil
Vidinli in Samsun; Mert Kanal in Sinop; and
Hasan Şimşek in Ünye. My partner, Michael
Rothschild, was a helpful travelling companion for a spell.
Will Gourlay
Thanks to Jo Cooke for asking me to join the
Turkey team again. Thanks also to the authors
and in-house team at Lonely Planet. In Turkey,
thanks to Pat Yale for gossip, insight and info, to
the Veni Vidi boys in İstanbul and the Surkent
crew in Diyarbakır. Finally, thanks to Claire,
Bridget and Tommy, my all-time favourite Turkey travel companions. Let’s do it again, soon.
Hayde gidelim!
Many thanks to Pat Yale, Mehmet Umur, Emel
Güntaş, Faruk Boyacı, Atilla Tuna, Tahir Karabaş, Jen Hartin, Eveline Zoutendijk, George
Grundy, Barbara Nadel, Ercan Tanrıvermiş,
Ann Nevans, Tina Nevans, Jennifer Gaudet,
Özlem Tuna, Ansel Mullins, Ken Dakan and
the many others who shared their knowledge
and love of the city with me.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Sciences, 11, 1633–44.
Illustrations pp66-7, pp80-1, and pp224-5 by
Javier Zarracina
Cover photograph: Rock formations near
Görkündere Vadısı (Love Valley), Cappodocia,
Turkey, Naomi Parker
Jessica Lee
A huge çok teşekkürler to Ömer Yapıs; Kazım
and Ayşe Akay and Bekir Kırca (for cake
and great local gossip); Ömer and Ahmet in
Kaş; Meral in Olympos; Yakup Kahveci; Beşir
Şafak; Nil Tuncer (for Kayseri-fun); Angela
Şisman (for getting food-poisoned instead of
me, thanks Ange!); Pat Yale; Ruth Lockwood;
and Jodie Redding. A special acknowledgment to Mustafa Turgut, whose Cappadocian
fresco knowledge contributed hugely to
that chapter, and who sadly died while I was
writing it.
THIS BOOK
This 14th edition of Lonely
Planet’s Turkey guidebook
was researched and written
by James Bainbridge, Brett
Atkinson, Stuart Butler, Steve
Fallon, Will Gourlay, Jessica
Lee and Virginia Maxwell. The
previous two editions were
also written by the authors
listed above and Jean-Bernard
Carillet, Chris Deliso, Brandon
Presser and Tom Spurling. This
guidebook was commissioned
in Lonely Planet’s London
office, and produced by the
following:
Commissioning Editor Clifton
Wilkinson
Destination Editor Joanna
Cooke
Product Editor Penny Cordner
Senior Cartographer Corey
Hutchison
Book Designer Wibowo Rusli
Assisting Editors Sarah
Bailey, Carolyn Bain, Katie
Connolly, Peter Cruttenden,
Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes,
Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk,
Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda
Turner
Assisting Cartographer Mick
Garrett
Cover Researcher Naomi
Parker
Thanks to Bruce Evans, Ryan
Evans, Larissa Frost, Jouve
India, Elizabeth Jones, Wayne
Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn
Noble, Samantha Tyson,
Lauren Wellicome
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
Thank you to everyone who helped out with
my chapter of this book. In particular I would
like to thank Deniz Aşık in Hattuşa. Closer to
home a big thanks to my wife, Heather, and
children, Jake and Grace, for putting up with
my absence again.
Virginia Maxwell
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
690
Index
A
Abana 513
accommodation 22, 26-7,
654-6, 681-2, see also
individual locations
activities 27, 39-43, see
also individual activities
Adamkayalar 400
Adana 403-6, 404
Adilcevaz 611
Aegean Coast (northern)
53, 174-217, 219
accommodation 174
climate 174
food 174
highlights 175
Aegean Coast (southern)
218-79, 53, 219
accommodation 218
climate 218
food 218
highlights 219
Afrodisias 312-14, 313, 306
Afyon 302-4
Ahlat 610-11
air travel 668-9, 671-2
Ak Han 312
Akkum 217
Aksaray 504
Akyaka 277-8
Ala Dağlar National Park
499-500
Alacahöyük 442
Alaçatı 214-17
Alanya 386-90, 388
Alarahan 390
Alçıtepe (Krithia) 157
Alexander the Great 622-3
Alibey Island (Cunda)
188-9
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Altınkum 214
Amasra 511-13
Amasya 443-7, 444, 440-1
Amazon people 520
Anadolu Kavağı 104
Anamur 391-3
Anatolia (central) 55, 41562, 416
accommodation 415
climate 415
food 46-7, 415
highlights 416
Anatolia (northeastern) 56,
537-69, 538
accommodation 537
climate 537
food 48, 537
highlights 538
travel seasons 537
Anatolia (southeastern) 56,
570-616, 572-3
accommodation 570
climate 570
food 47, 570
highlights 572-3
travel seasons 570
Anatolia (western) 54,
280-321, 281
accommodation 280
climate 280
food 47, 280
highlights 281
Anazarbus 407
anchovies 516
Ani 15, 561-5, 563, 15,
546-7
Ankara 55, 417-28, 418,
420, 423, 424, 34
accommodation 415,
422-3
climate 415
drinking & nightlife 425-6
entertainment 426
festivals & events 422
food 415, 423-5
highlights 416
information 426-7
shopping 426
sights 417-22
travel to/within 427-8
Antakya 409-14, 410
Antalya 54, 365-77, 368,
370
accommodation 322,
370-3
activities 369
climate 322
drinking & nightlife 375-6
entertainment 375-6
festivals & events 370
food 322, 373-5
highlights 323
shopping 376
sights 365-9
tours 369
travel to/within 376-7
walking tour 372, 372
Antiocheia-in-Pisidia 320
Anzac Cove 155, 160
archaelogical sites &
ruins 27
Acropolis 429
Afrodisias 312-14, 313,
306
Afyon ruins 300
Agora 201
Alexandria Troas 181
Amisos Antik Kenti 518
Anazarbus 407
Ancient Patara 346
Ancient Phocaea 196
Andriake 361
Anemurium Ancient City
391, 398
Ani 15, 561-5, 563, 15,
546-7
Antiocheia-in-Pisidia 320
Antiphellos Theatre 353
Apollon Smintheion 181
Arykanda 361
Asclepion 190-1, 191
Aspendos theatre 379
Basilica of St John 230
Beçin Kalesi 251
Behramkale (Assos)
ruins 180
Bergama Acropolis 18990, 190
Bursa Citadel 287
Byzantine Aqueduct 230
Çatalhöyük 461-2
Çevlik 414
Curetes Way 226-7
Dara 605
Diyarbakır City Walls &
Gates 596
Elaiussa-Sebaste 397
Ephesus 12, 53, 220-9,
634, 219, 222, 12
history 220
sights 223-8
tours 228-9
travel to/from 229
Eski Kahta (Kocahisar) &
Yeni Kale 589
Eski Kale (Arsameia) 589
Eski Van 613
Eskişehir ruins 300
Euromos 250
Göbekli Tepe 579, 546
Grotto of the Seven
Sleepers 229-30
Hadrian’s Gate 368
Harran 585, 586
Hattuşa 438-42, 441
Herakleia 249-50
Hierapolis 305-9, 308,
306-7
Iasos (Kıyıkışlacık) 250-1
İznik City Walls & Gates
282
Karakuş Tümülüs 588
Kaunos 324
Kekova area 359
Labranda 251
691
Ayvacık 182
Ayvalı 496
Ayvalık 183-7, 184
B
Bağbaşı 554
Balıklı Kaplıca 453-4
Ballıca Cave 449-50
ballooning 11, 309, 479
Bana 554
bargaining 23, 659
Barhal 551
Basilica Cistern 75
bathroom 664
Battalgazi 594-5
Batumi (Georgia) 533
Bay of Edremit 182-3
bazaars 25
Ali Paşa Covered Bazaar
150
Antakya 412
Arasta Bazaar 127, 129
Atlıhan Complex 297
Bakircilar Çarşisi 571-5
Balık Pazarı 120, 128
Bursa 287
Grand Bazaar 84-5, 88,
116, 85, 128-9
İki Kapılar Hanı 375
Kuşadası 241
Malatya 591
Mardin 603
Marmaris 268
Şanlıurfa 580-1
Selçuk 231
Spice Bazaar 92, 128
Tire 235
Trabzon 525
beaches 14, 25
Akçagerme Beach 353
Bozcaada 176, 198
Brighton Beach 155
Büyük Çakıl Beach 353
Çaka 522
Çinar Beach 277
Cleopatra’s Beach 386
Diamond Beach 214
Dilek Peninsula 243
Eğirdir 317
Gökçeada 171
İztuzu Beach 324
Kalkan 348, 15
Kaputaş, 348, 15
Kuşadası 241
Liman Ağzı 353
Marmaris 268
Ölüdeniz Beach &
Lagoon 339, 366-7
Olympos 362
Patara Beach 346
Pırlanta Beach 214
Side 381
Behramkale (Assos)
179-82, 26
Belkıs-Zeugma 578
Bergama (Pergamum)
189-95, 192, 198-9
Bergama Acropolis 18990, 190
Beşiktaş 102
Beşparmak Dağı 249
Beypazarı 429
Bezirgan 352-3
bicycling 672
Biga Peninsula 181
Binbirkilise 461
birds 500
Bitez 261-2
Bitlis 608
Black Sea Coast 55, 50936, 510
accommodation 509
climate 509
food 57, 509, 531
highlights 510
travel seasons 509
Blue Mosque 68-9, 23
boat travel 671, 672
boat trips 366-7
Alanya 387
Amasra 511
Antalya 369
Ayvalık 187
Bitez 261
Bodrum 257
Bosphorus 24, 102
Çeşme 211
Eğirdir 317
Foça 196
Golden Horn Ferry 105
İstanbul 11, 101-6, 10-11
Kalkan 348-9
Köyceğiz 329
Kuşadası 241
Marmaris 269-70
Ölüdeniz 339, 336-7
Bodrum 53, 253-61, 254
accommodation 218,
257-8
activities 256-7
climate 218
drinking & nightlife
259-60
entertainment 259-60
food 218, 258-9
highlights 219
information 261
shopping 261
sights 253-6
travel within 261
Bodrum Peninsula 19,
251-68, 252
Boğazkale 436-8, 437
Bolaman 522
books 159, 618, 641-2
border crossings 669-71
Azerbaijan 567
Georgia 560
Iraq 601
Bosphorus Ferry 102
Bozburun 276-9
Bozburun Peninsula 272-7
Bozcaada 176-9, 176,
198, 199
Brighton Beach 155
budget 21, 654, 657
Bulak Mencilis Mağarası
434
Bursa 285-94, 286-7
accommodation 291-2
drinking & nightlife
292-3
entertainment 293
festivals & events 291
food 292-3
shopping 293
sights 285-91
tours 291
travel to/within 293-4
bus travel 672-3, 675
bushwalking, see hiking
business hours 21, 660
Butterfly Valley 340-1
Büyükada 140-1
Byzantine empire 623-4
C
Çakraz 513
Çamlıhemşin 545
Çanakkale 163-7, 164
Çandarlı 195
canoeing 42, 346
canyoning 42-3
Cappadocia 11, 55, 463508, 464, 11
accommodation 463
climate 463
food 463
highlights 464
safety 465
I N D E X A - C
Laodicea 311-12, 306
Letoön 345
Levissi 342
Mary’s House 229
Mausoleum (Bodrum)
256
Midas Tumulus 428-9
Miletus 246-8, 249 247
Myra 361, 14
Necropolis 395
Olympos 362-3
Pınara 344-5
Priene 245-6, 249, 245
Red Hall 191
Roman Baths 421
Ruins of Troy 169
Sagalassos 320-1, 307
Selge 379-80
Temple of Apollo 248
Temple of Artemis 231
Temple of Athena (Behramkale) 179-80
Temple of Athena (Foça)
196
Temples of Apollo &
Athena (Side) 380
Termessos 377-8, 377
Theatre (Side) 380
Tlos 344
Uzuncaburç 396
Van Castle (Van Kalesi)
613
Xanthos 345-6
Yazılıkaya 442
architecture 28, 634-7
area codes 21
Arsuz 408
art galleries, see museums & galleries
arts 641-4, see also individual arts
Artvin 555-6
Arykanda 361
Asclepion 190-1, 191
Aslantepe 594
Aspendos 379
Assos 179-82, 26
Atatürk 632
Atatürk International
Airport 135
ATMs 659
Avanos 481-3
Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 13,
65-8, 65, 7, 13
Aya Sofya Mosque &
Museum (Trabzon) 528
Ayancık 513
Ayder 548-50
692
I N D E X C - E
Cappadocia continued
tours 465
travel seasons 463
travel to/within 466
car travel 673-5
caravanserai
Ağzıkara Hanı 505
Ak Han 312
Han el Ba’rur 586
Sarıhan 483
Sultan Han 507
Sultanhanı 460
Vezir Han 84
carpets 24, 83, 338, 641
castles & fortresses
Afyon Kale 303
Alanya Castle 386
Amasra Castle 511
Ayasuluk Fortress 230-1
Babakale Fortress 181
Beçin Kalesi 251
Beşkapılar 196
Bozcaada Castle 176
Bursa Citadel 287
Castle of St Peter 253-6
Çeşme Fortress 211
Corycus Castle 397
Erzurum Kale 539
Gaziantep Kale 571
Harran Kale 585
Harşena Castle 445
Hoşap Castle 616
İç Kale 562
Kadifekale 204
Kars Castle 557
Kızkalesi Castle 396-7
Kozan Castle 406-7
Kuşadası Castle 241
Mamure Castle 391-2
Marmaris Castle 268
Rize Castle 534
Şanlıurfa Kale 581
Silifke Castle 394
Sinop Fortress 514
Uçhisar Castle 476
Ünye Castle 520
Urfa Kale 571, 581
Van Castle 613
Yılankale 407
Çatalzeytin 513
cathedrals, see churches
& cathedrals
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
caves
Ballıca Cave 449-50
Bazda Caves 586
Bulak Mencilis Mağarası
434
Caves of Heaven &
Hell 400
Dripstone Cave 386
Kaklık Mağarası 312
Zından caves 319
Çavuşin 478-80
Çavuştepe 616
cell phones 20, 662-3
cemeteries & memorials
57 Alay 156
Anzac Commemorative
Site 155
Beach (Hell Spit)
Cemetery 155
Cape Helles British
Memorial 157, 160
Chunuk Bair New
Zealand Cemetery &
Memorial 156
Gevaş Cemetery 609
Kesikdere 156
Şehitler Çeşmesi 514-15
Sergeant Mehmet
Monument 156
Sinop Martyrs’
Monument 515
Çengilli 561
Çeşme 211-14, 211
Çevlik 414
cherry season 31
children, travel with
49-51, 82
churches & cathedrals
Akdamar Kilisesi 610
Altinsaç Kİlİsesİ 610
Ani 562, 564
Binbirkilise 461
Church of St Gregory
(Tigran Honentz) 562
Church of St John the
Baptist 238
Church of St Peter,
Antakya 411
Church of the
Redeemer 562
Dörtkilise 551
Forty Martyrs Church
603
Güllüdere Valley 469
İzmir 204
Kariye Museum (Chora
Church) 93-4
Keldani Kilisesi 597
Kızıl Kilise 503
Meryem Ana Kilisesi 597
St Nicholas Church 360-1
Surp Giragos Kilisesi 24
Cide 513
Cilician kingdom 390
cinema 618, 643-4
Çıldır Gölü 561
Çıralı 363-5
climate 20, see also
individual regions
coffee 46
consulates 657
cooking courses 108, 470
Çoruh River 43, 544, 40
Çorum 442-3
costs 21, 654, 657
courses
cooking 108, 470
language 658
Courtney’s & Steele’s
Post 156
credit cards 659
culture 31, 645
currency 20
Cunda Island 188-9
customs regulations 656
cycling 672
D
Dalaman 330
Dalyan 324-8, 325
dance 644
dangers 39, 661-2, 672,
674-5
Dara 605
Darende 595
Datça 272-4
Datça Peninsula 19, 272-7
dervishes 17, 101, 455,
459, 17
Devrent Valley 481
Deyrul Zafaran 605
diarrhoea 679
Didyma (Didim) 248-9
Dilek National Park 243
Dilek Peninsula 243
diphtheria 679
disabilities, travellers
with 664
discount cards 69, 656
diving & snorkelling 41-2
Ayvalık 187
Çinar Beach 277
Dalyan 324
Fethiye 334
Kalkan 348
Marmaris 270
Divriği 452
Diyarbakır 595-601, 597-8
accommodation 597-9
drinking & nightlife 600
entertainment 600
food 599-600
information 600
sights 596-7
travel to/within 600-1
Doğanbey 243
Doğanyurt 513
Doğubayazıt 565-7, 565
Dolmabahçe Palace
98-100
dolmuşes 675
Dörtkilise 551
drinks 27-8, 44-8, 639,
see also wine
driving 673-5
E
earthquakes 651
Eceabat 162
economy 619
Edirne 143-50, 144
accommodation 147-8
drinking & nightlife 149
food 148
shopping 149-50
sights 145-7
travel to/within 150
Efes, see Ephesus
Eğirdir 314-19, 316
electricity 656, 660
embassies 657
emergencies 684
Eminönü 102, 105
entertainment, see
individual locations
environment 649-52
environmental issues
650-2
Ephesus 12, 53, 220-9,
634, 219, 222, 12
Erciyes Dağı Ski Resort
505, 30
Erzurum 538-42, 540
Eski Bademli 171
Eski Datça 274-5
Eskişehir 296-9
etiquette 23
events, see festivals &
events
evil eye 177
exchange rates 21
693
F
G
Galata Bridge 92, 7
Galata Tower 95
Gallipoli campaign 629
Gallipoli (Gelibolu) Peninsula 17, 151-9, 152, 17
accommodation 159
battlefields & cemeteries
154-7, 158
food 159
sights 153-8
tours 158-9
travel to/within 159
Gallipoli Historical
National Park 151-2,
153-8
Gallipoli Simulation
Centre 24, 154-5
gardens, see parks &
gardens
gay travellers 657
H
Hacıbektaş 486-7
Halfeti 578
hamams 12, 25, 106
Adana 405
Amasya 446
Ambassador Spa 107
Antalya 369
Armutalan Hamamı
268-9
Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan
Hamamı 106-7
Cağaloğlu Hamamı
107, 12
Çakır Ağa Hamamı 288
Çemberlitaş Hamamı 107
Cinci Hamam 431
Doğubayazıt 568
Eski Hamam 521
Gaziantep 575
Gedikpaşa Hamamı 107
Göreme 470
Hacı Hekim Hamamı 193
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı
24, 107
Ottoman Turkish
Bath 241
Sivas 453
Tarihi Bardakçı
Hamamı 257
Trabzon 527
Yeni Kaplıca 290
hamsi 516
Harran 585, 586
Hasan Dağı 502
Hasankeyf 607-8
Hasköy 105-6
Hatay 409-4, 410
Hattuşa 438-42, 441
health 658, 678-80
Hemşin culture 549
hepatitis A 679
hepatitis B 679
Heybeliada 139
Hierapolis 305-9, 308,
306-7
hiking 31, 39-41
Balyolu 556
Carian Trail 250
Göreme 469, 470
Göreme National
Park 472
Güllüdere Valley 469
Hasan Dağı 502
Ihlara Valley 500-2, 501
İznik 283-4
Kaçkar Mountains
(Kaçkar Dağları) 17, 41,
543-4, 17
Kayaköy 343
Köprülü Kanyon 379
Lycian Way 14, 41, 345
Mt Ararat 41, 568-9
Mt Nemrut (Nemrut
Dağı) 16, 587-91, 587,
6, 16, 546
Sivri Dağı 315-17
St Paul Trail 41, 319
history 27, 620-33
Alexander the Great
622-3
Byzantine campaign
623-4
Gallipoli battles 629
Hittites 439, 621
Lycian civilisation 347
Ottoman Empire 625-8
Persian empire 621-2
Roman Empire 623
Seljuk empire 624-5
WWI 628
Hittites 439, 621
holidays 661
homestays 582
Hopa 535-6
horse riding 42
Avanos 481
Cappadocia 474
Ortahisar 488
Patara 346
Hoşap 616
hot-air ballooning 11,
309, 479
hot springs & spas, see
also hamams
Ayder Kaplıca 549
Balıklı Kaplıca 453-4
Datça 272
Diyadin Hot Springs 568
Kaplıca 549
Pamukkale 16, 304-11,
305, 16
Sultaniye Hot Springs
329
I
Iğdır 565
Ihlara Valley 500-2, 501
Ilhan, Ekrem 474
İncekaya Aqueduct 435
İnebolu 513
insurance 658, 674, 678
internet resources 21, 660
internet access 658
Iraq 601, 631-3
İşhan 553-4
İskenderun 408-9
Islam 23, 647, 661
İslamlar 352
Isparta 314
İstanbul 52, 58-141, 62-3,
70-1, 74, 86-7, 90-1,
96-7, 137, 7, 26
accommodation 58,
109-14
activities 101-6
boat trips 11, 101-6, 10-11
children, travel with 82
I N D E X F- I
Faralya 340-1
Fatih Mosque 92-3
festivals & events 29-32
Anzac Day, Gallipoli
Peninsula 30, 163
İstanbul Biennial 32, 109
İstanbul Music Festival
108-9
Kırkpınar Oil-Wrestling
Festival 31, 147
Ramazan 23
Fethiye 331-8, 332-3,
306-7
accommodation 334-6
activities 333-4
drinking & nightlife 337
food 336-7
information 337
shopping 337
sights 331-3
tours 334
travel to/within 337-8
films 618, 643-4
Fırtına Valley 548
Foça 195-200
food 27-8, 44-8, 638-9,
657, see also individual locations
cooking courses 108,
470
language 682-3
fortresses, see castles &
fortresses
frescoes 484-5
Gaziantep 571-7, 574
accommodation 575-6
activities 571-5
drinking & nightlife 577-8
food 576
sights 571-5
Georgian Valleys 552-4,
553
Gideros 513
Giresun 523-5
Göcek 330-1
Gökçeada 170-3, 170
Göksu Delta 396
Gökyurt 462
Gölbaşı 579
Golden Horn Ferry 105
Gölköy 267
Gordion 428-9
Göreme 466-76, 468
accommodation 471-3
activities 469-70
drinking & nightlife
474-5
festivals & events 471
food 473-4
information 475
shopping 475
sights 466-9
tours 470-1
travel to/within 475-6
Grand Bazaar 84-5, 88,
116, 85, 128-9
Great Palace Mosaic
Museum 69
Greek colonies 621-2
gület 18, 42, 335, 18, see
also boat trips
Gülpınar 181
Gülşehir 486
Gümüşlük 262-4
Gündoğan 265
Güzelyurt 503-4
694
I N D E X I - M
İstanbul continued
climate 58
courses 107-8
drinking & nightlife
122-6
entertainment 126-7
festivals & events 108-9
food 46, 58, 114-22
highlights 59
history 60-3
information 133-4
itineraries 61
safety 133
shopping 127-33
sights 64-101
sports 127
tourist information 134
tours 108
travel seasons 58
travel to/from 134
travel within 135-7
İstanbul Tulip Festival
29, 108
İstanbulkarts 136
itineraries 33-8, 33, 35,
36, 37, 38
İzmir 53, 200-9, 202, 198
accommodation 174,
205-6
activities 200-4
climate 174
drinking 207
entertainment 207
festivals & events 205
food 174, 206-7
highlights 175
shopping 207
sights 200-4
travel seasons 174
travel to/within 208-9
İznik 282-5, 283
J
Jewish history 204
Johnston’s Jolly 156
K
Kabak 341-2, 28
Kabatepe Village 155
Kaçkar Mountains
(Kaçkar Dağları) 17
542-52, 17
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Kadıköy 101
Kahta 586-7
Kaklık Mağarası 312
Kale 360-2
Kaleköy 360
Kalem Island 194
Kalkan 348-52, 349
Kanlıca 102-4
Kanlıdivane 400
Kanlısırt Kitabesi 155
Kapıkırı 249
Kapısuyu 513
Karine 243
Kariye Museum (Chora
Church) 93-4
Kars 556-61, 558
Kaş 353-8, 354-5, 30,
367
Kasaba 436
Kasımpaşa 105
Kastamonu 435-6
Katpatuka, see Cappadocia
kayaking 42, 333
Kayaköy 342-4
Kayseri 505-8, 506
Keçivan 561
Kekova 358, 359 366
Kernal Mustafa (Atatürk)
629
Kilis 578
Kilitbahir 163
kitesurfing 43
Kırkpınar Oil-Wrestling
Festival 31, 147
Kızkalesi 396-7
Knidos 275
Konya 454-61, 456-7
accommodation 458
drinking & nightlife
458-9
festivals & events 458
food 458-9
information 460
shopping 460
sights 454-8
travel to/within 460-1
Köprülü Kanyon 379-80
Kovada Gölü Milli Parkı
319
Köyceğiz 328-30
Kozan 406-7
Kurdistan Workers Party
(PKK) 632, 646
Kurdish people 646
Kurşunlu Külliyesi
Complex 296
Kuşadası 239-45, 240
Kuscu Köyü 513
Kütahya 301-2
L
Laertes 390
Lake Bafa (Bafa Gölü)
249-50
Lake Van 609-11
landscape 27, 649
language 20, 23, 640,
681-7
accommodation 681-2
courses 658
emergencies 684
food 682-3
Laodicea 311-12, 306
Laz people 534
legal matters 658
leishmaniasis 679
leptospirosis 679
lesbian travellers 657
Letoön 345
literature 159, 618, 641-2
Lone Pine 155-6, 160-1
Lycian civilisation 347
Lycian Way 14, 41, 345
M
malaria 679-80
Malatya 591-4, 591
Manisa 210
maps 658
Mardin 601-5, 601
markets, see bazaars
Marmara 53, 142-73
accommodation 142
climate 142
food 46, 142
highlights 143
travel seasons 142
Marmaris 268-72, 269
mausoleums, see tombs
& mausoleums
measures 660
medical services 679
Mediterranean Coast
(eastern) 54, 384414, 385
accommodation 384
climate 384
food 47, 384
highlights 385
travel seasons 384
Mediterranean Coast
(western), see
Turquoise Coast
mediterranean monk
seals 196
medrese
Bürüciye Medresesi 452
Büyük Ağa Medresesi
445
Çifte Minareli Medrese
539
Çifte Minare Medrese
451-2
Dündar Bey Medresesi
315
Gök Medrese (Sivas) 452
Gök Medrese (Tokat) 447
Kasımiye Medresesi 603
Şifaiye Medresesi 451
Sultan İsa (Zinciriye)
Medresesi 602
Yakutiye Medrese 539
memorials, see cemeteries & memorials
Meis (Greece) 356
Mersin 401-2
metro 675
meyhanes 13, 13
midibuses 675
Midyat 606-7
Milas 250-1
Miletus 246-8, 249, 247
mobile phones 20, 662-3
monasteries
Alahan Monastery,
Göksu Valley 395,
398-9
Deyrul Zafaran 605
Dörtkilise, Tekkale 551
Eski Gümüşler
Monastery,498
Haghia Triada
Monastery 140
Monastery of St
George 140
Monastery of St
Simeon 414
Morgabriel Monastery
607
Selime Monastery 501
Sumela Monastery 14,
531-2, 14, 547
Yüksek Kilise &
Manastır 503
money 20, 658-60
Morgabriel 607
mosques 636
Alaaddin Camii
(Konya) 457
Alaaddin Camii
(Sinop) 514
695
Ulu Camii (Bursa)
286-7, 34
Ulu Camii (Harran) 585
Yeşil Cami (İznik) 282
Yeşil Camii (Bursa) 288
motorcycle travel 673-5
Mt Ararat 41, 568-9
Mt Davraz 319
Mt Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı)
16, 587-91, 587, 6,
16, 546
Mudanya 294-5
Muğla 278-9
Muradiye Complex 289
museums & galleries 25
Amasra Museum 511
Amasya Museum 445
Antalya Museum 365,
368
Archaeology Museum
192-3
Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 13,
65-8, 65, 7, 13
Carpet Museum 24, 83
Cer Modern 421
Çorum Museum 443
Dardanelles Straits Naval
Command Museum
163
Edessa Mosaic Museum
579
Edirne Turkish & Islamic
Art Museum 145
Ephesus Museum 230
Fethiye Museum 93
Galata Mevlevi Museum 95
Gallipoli Simulation
Centre 24, 154-5
Gazi Museum 518
Gaziantep City Museum
575
Gaziantep Zeugma
Mosaic Museum 571
Gordion Museum 428-9
Göreme Open-Air
Museum 466-7
Great Palace Mosaic
Museum 69
Güpgüpoğlu Konağı 505
Hatay Archaeology
Museum 410-11, 399
Hierapolis Archaeology
Museum 309
İskenderun Museum of
the Sea 409
İstanbul Archaeology
Museums 82-3
İstanbul Modern 94
İznik Museum 282
Karatepe-Aslantaş
Open-Air Museum
407-8, 398
Kariye Museum (Chora
Church) 93-4
Kars Museum 556
Kaymakamlar Müze
Evi 431
Local History Research
Museum 176
Marmaris Museum 268
Mevlâna Museum 454-6
Mevlevihane 447-8
Museum of Anatolian
Civilisations 417-19
Museum of Innocence 95
Museum of Seljuk
Civilisation 24, 505
Museum of Turkish &
Islamic Arts 73-5
Museum of Wooden
Artefacts & Stone
Carving 457
Paşaoğlu Mansion &
Ethnography Museum
522
Pera Museum 98
Rahmi M Koç Industrial
Museum 421
Rákóczi Museum 150-1
Rize Museum 535
Sakıp Sabancı Mardin
City Museum 601-2
Şanlıurfa Archeopark 24,
579-80
Selimiye Foundation
Museum 145
Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi
Museum 368
Taksiyarhis Memorial
Museum 185
Tekirdağ Archaeological
& Ethnographic
Museum 150
Tile Museum (Konya)
456-7
Tile Museum (Kütahya)
301
Tokat Müzesi 447
Trabzon Museum 525
Troy Museum 24, 169
Vakıf Eserleri Müzesi 421
music 642-3
music festivals 31
Mustafapaşa 493-6
Myra 361, 14
N
Narlıkuyu 400
national parks & reserves
650, 652
Ala Dağlar National Park
499-500
Dilek National Park 243
Gallipoli Historical
National Park 151-2,
153-8
Göreme National Park
472
Kovada Gölü Milli Parkı
319
Köyceğiz-Dalyan Nature
Reserve 329
Yazılı Canyon Nature
Park 319
nazar 177
Nemrut Dağı (Mt Nemrut)
16, 587-91, 587, 6,
16, 546
Nevşehir 483-6
newspapers 660
Niğde 498-9
O
Olba Plateau 396
Olgunlar 552
Oltu 554
Ölüdeniz 338-40, 40,
336-7
Olympos 362-3
opening hours 21, 660
Ordu 522-3
Ortahisar 487-9
Ortakent 262
Öşkvank 554
Ottoman Empire 625-8
outdoor activities 27, 3943, see also individual
activities
Özkonak underground
city 483
P
palaces
Dolmabahçe Palace
98-100
İshak Paşa Palace 565-6
Topkapı Palace 75-82,
76, 78
Palandöken 542
Pamucak 239
Pamukkale 16, 304-11,
305, 16
Pamuk, Orhan 95, 642
paragliding 43, 339, 309
I N D E X M - P
Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 13,
65-8, 65, 7, 13
Aya Sofya (İznik) 282
Behram Paşa Camii 596
Beyazıt Paşa Camii 446
Blue Mosque 68-9, 23
Emir Sultan Camii 288-9
Fatih Mosque 92-3
Gök Medrese Camii 446
Gülbahar Hatun Camii
525
Gümüşlü Cami 446
Hacı Bayram Camii 421
Hazreti Süleyman
Camii 597
Hüseyin Paşa
Camii 581
İsa Bey Camii 231
İzzet Paşa Camii 431
Kocatepe Camii 421
Kurtuluş Camii 575
Little Aya Sofya
(İstanbul) 84
Mehmet Paşa Camii 446
Menüçer Camii 562
Mevlevihane Cami 302
Mihrimah Sultan
Mosque 93
Nebi Camii 596
New Mosque
(İstanbul) 92
Rüstem Paşa
Mosque 91-2
Sabancı Merkez
Camii 403
Safa Camii 596
Sahib-i Ata Külliyesi 457
Şehidiye Camii 603
Selahattin Eyubi
Camii 581
Selimiye Mosque 145
Şeyh Mutahhar
Camii 597
Süleymaniye Mosque
88-91
Sultan Alaadın Camii
368
Sultan Beyazıt II Camii
(Amasya) 445-6
Sultan Beyazıt II Mosque
Complex (Edirne) 146
Sultan İsa (Zinciriye)
Medresesi 602
Üç Şerefeli Mosque
145-6
Ulu Cami & Darüşşifa
(Sivas) 452, 440
Ulu Cami (Diyarbakır)
596
696
I N D E X P -T
parks & gardens
100 Yil Atatürk Kültür
Parkı 575
Dergah 581
Gülhane Park 83-4
Hippodrome 69-73
Jinan Garden 268
Karaalioğlu Parkı 369
Kültür Parkı 289-90
Kültürpark 203
Sultanahmet Archaeological Park 73
Tea Garden 534
Paşabağı 480
passports 668
Patara 346-8
Penek 554
people 645-8
Pergamum, see Bergama
(Pergamum)
Perge 378, 378
peribacalar (fairy
chimneys) 477
Perşembe 522
Persian empire 621-2
Phaselis 365
phonecards 663
photography 660
Phrygian people 300
Pınara 344-5
Pırlanta Beach 214
planning 22-3, see also
individual regions
budgeting 21, 654, 657
calendar of events 29-32
children, travel with
49-51, 82
internet resources
21, 660
itineraries 33-8, 33, 35,
36, 37, 38
repeat visitors 24
travel seasons 20, 29-32
Turkey basics 20-1
Turkey’s regions 52-6
plants 650
politics 618, 646
population 619
postal services 660-1
Priene 245-6, 249, 245
Princes’ Islands 137-41
public holidays 661
public transport 675-6
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Q
Quinn’s Post 156
R
rabies 680
radio 660
rafting 379-80, 40
Ramazan 23
religion 23, 619, 647, 661
reserves, see national
parks & reserves
Rize 534-5
Roman Empire 623
roses 314
ruins, see archaelogical
sites & ruins
Rumi, Celaleddin 459
Rumkale 578
Rüstem Paşa Mosque
91-2
S
Sabiha Gökçen International Airport 135
safety 39, 661-2, 672,
674-5
Safranbolu 18, 429-34,
430, 18
Sagalassos 320-1, 307
Saklıkent Gorge 344
Samsun 518-20
Şanlıurfa 578-85
accommodation 582-3
drinking & nightlife 584
entertainment 584
food 583-4
information 584
sights 579-82
travel to/within 585
Sardis 210
Sarıhan 483
Sarıkamış 565
Sarıyer 104
Savur 605
scams 662
seals 196
Selçuk 226, 235, 238
accommodation 231-4
drinking & nightlife 235
food 234
sights 230-1
travel to/within 235, 238
Selge 379-80
Selimiye 275-6
Seljuk empire 624-5
senior travellers 676
shadow puppets 288
shopping, see bazaars,
individual locations
Side 380-3, 381
Sığacık 217
Silifke 394-6
silk 293
Silk Road 460
Sille 462
Sinasos 493-6
Sinop 514-18, 515
Şirince 238-9
Sivas 450-3, 451
Sivas Massacre 450
skiing 43, 319, 505, 30
smoking 662
snorkelling, see diving &
snorkelling
Soğanlı 496-8
spas, see hot springs
& spas
sports 127
St Paul 402
St Paul Trail 41, 319
Süleyman 89, 626-7
Süleymaniye Mosque
88-91
Sultan Marshes 500
Sumela Monastery 14,
531-2, 14, 547
Sütlüce 106
Syedra 390
T
Tarsus 402-3
Taşucu 393-4
Tatvan 608-9
taxis 675-6
Tekirdağ 150-1
Tekkale 551
telephone services 662-3
Teos 217
Tepeköy 171
Termessos 377-8, 377
theme parks 239
Thrace 53, 142-73, 143
accommodation 142
climate 142
food 46, 142
highlights 143
travel seasons 142
Thracian Vineyard Route
149
time 20, 663-4
tipping 23, 660
Tire 235
Tlos 344
toilets 664
Tokat 447-9
Tokat Kebap 448
tombs & mausoleums
Aya Sofya tombs 68
Anıt Kabir 419-20
Gümüşkesen Mausoleum
250
Bodrum 256
Kings’ Tombs, Dalyan
324
Tombs of the Pontic
Kings 444-5
Tozkoparan Rock Tomb
520-1
Üç Kümbetler 539
Topkapı Palace 75-82,
76, 78
Torba 267
Tortum Gölü 554
Tortum Şelalesİ 554
tourist information 664,
see also individual
locations
tours 671, 676, see also
walking tours, individual locations
Antalya 369-70
Avanos 481
Bursa 291
Cappadocia 465
Fethiye 334
Gallipoli Peninsula 158-9
Göreme 470-1
Hattuşa 439
İstanbul 108
Kaş 353-4
Mt Nemrut (Nemrut
Dağı) 590-1
Phrygian Valley 301
Trabzon 527-8
Troy (Truva) 169
Ürgüp 489
Trabzon 525-31, 526-7
accommodation 528-9
activities 525-7
drinking & nightlife
529-30
food 529
information 530
sights 525-7
tours 527-8
travel to/within 530-1
train travel 676-7
trams 676
travel to/from Turkey
668-71
697
food 322
highlights 323
travel seasons 322
turtles 392
typhoid 680
TV 660
U
Üçağız 358-60
Uçhisar 476-8
Uludağ 295
underground cities 495
Ünye 520-2
Ürgüp 489-93, 490-1
Üsküdar 100-1
Uzun Yol (Long Road)
504-5
Uzuncaburç 396
Uzungöl 534
V
vacations 661
Van 611-16, 611
visual arts 644
volunteering 665
visas 20, 664-5
W
walking, see hiking
walking tours
Antalya 372, 372
Grand Bazaar 84-5, 85
İstanbul 108
water sports 41-3
weather 20, see also
individual regions
websites,see internet
resources
weights 660
white-water rafting 43,
544-5
wildlife 649-50
windsurfing 43, 215
wine 149, 178
women travellers 665-6
wool 426
work 666-7
WWI 628, see also Gallipoli (Gelibolu)
Peninsula
X
Xanthos 345-6
Y
Yalıkavak 264-5
Yason Burnu 522
Yaylalar 552
Yazılı Canyon Nature
Park 319
Yazılıkaya 442
Yenice 433
Yılankale 407
Yörük Köyü 434
Yukarı Kaleköy 171
Yusufeli 550-1
Z
Zelve 480-1
Zeytinli 171
Zından Cave 319
I N D E X T -  Z
travel within Turkey 21,
24, 671-7
travertines 305
trekking, see hiking
Trojan Horse 163
Troy 169
Troy Museum 24, 169
Troy (Truva) 167-70, 168
tuberculosis 680
Turgurtreis 262
Türkbükü 265-7
Turkish language 20, 23,
640, 681-7
accommodation 681-2
courses 658
emergencies 684
food 682-3
Turkish people 645-6
Turkish War of Independence 183
Turquoise Coast 54, 32283, 323
accommodation 322
climate 322
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
702
Map Legend
Sights
Beach
Bird Sanctuary
Buddhist
Castle/Palace
Christian
Confucian
Hindu
Islamic
Jain
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building
Ruin
Shinto
Sikh
Taoist
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary
Other Sight
Activities,
Courses & Tours
Bodysurfing
Diving
Canoeing/Kayaking
Course/Tour
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
Skiing
Snorkelling
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Activity
Sleeping
Sleeping
Camping
Eating
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Information
Bank
Embassy/Consulate
Hospital/Medical
Internet
Police
Post Office
Telephone
Toilet
Tourist Information
Other Information
Geographic
Beach
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Population
Capital (National)
Capital (State/Province)
City/Large Town
Town/Village
Transport
Airport
Border crossing
Bus
Cable car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Metro station
Monorail
Parking
Petrol station
S-Bahn/Subway station
Taxi
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Train station/Railway
Tram
Tube station
U-Bahn/Underground station
Other Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
Routes
Tollway
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed road
Road under construction
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Tunnel
Pedestrian overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour detour
Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Hydrography
River, Creek
Intermittent River
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Reef
Areas
Airport/Runway
Beach/Desert
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Glacier
Mudflat
Park/Forest
Sight (Building)
Sportsground
Swamp/Mangrove
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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