Delicious Black Sea cuisine E¤lenceli
Transkript
Delicious Black Sea cuisine E¤lenceli
DEDEMAN QUARTERLY DQ SAYI-ISSUE 04 SONBAHAR-FALL 2009 Bir Dünya Metropolü: ‹stanbul A world metropolis: Istanbul Enfes Karadeniz Mutfa¤› Delicious Black Sea cuisine E¤lenceli ve Muzip: Ayhan Sicimo¤lu Funny and tricky: Ayhan Sicimoglu DQ ÖNSÖZ-FOREWORD De¤erli Dedeman Dostlar›, Büyükflehirlerin heybetli camilerinde arz-› endam eden mahyalar ve bütün bir ay gökyüzünde ›fl›ldayan özlü sözler Ramazan ay›n›n simgesi. Bu sene de kandiller yand›, camiler süslendi. Ramazan yine huzuruyla birlikte geldi... Bu sene yaz›n bitmesine f›rsat vermeden bafllayan Razaman ay›, sezona dingin bir girifl yapmam›z› sa¤lad›. Dergimiz bu sefer de dopdolu... Kapal›çarfl›’s›, Galata’s›, Bo¤az’› ve ultra lüks al›flverifl merkezleriyle gerçek bir metropol ‹stanbul, vakti az olup seyahat planlar›n› internet üzerinden yapanlara e-seyahat konusu, keflfetmeye de¤er kültür&sanat mekanlar›, Taflkent/Semerkant ve Buhara, Ayhan Sicimo¤lu söyleflisi ve Dedeman fianl›urfa’da moda çekimi... Hepsi DQ’nun dördüncü say›s›nda. Siz de¤erli misafirlerimize duyurmak istedi¤imiz bir de kampanyam›z var. 1 Ekim 2009 tarihine kadar herhangi bir Dedeman Oteli’nde konaklarsan›z, zincir otellerden istedi¤iniz birinde tek gece konaklama hediye ediyoruz. Belirlenen tarihler aras›nda gerçeklefltirilecek konaklamalarda kazan›lacak ücretsiz konaklama haklar› 2009 senesinin sonuna kadar Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International bünyesinde yer alan 7’si yurt d›fl›, 15’i yurt içi toplam 22 otelde geçerli olacak. Bu çok özel imkandan yararlanmak için yapman›z gereken tek fley Dedeman Loyal Club’a üye olmak ve en az iki gece bir Dedeman Oteli’nde konaklamak. ‹yi bayramlar... Dear Valued Dedeman Friends, The glittering scripts of famous aphorisms, which remain shining in the skies throughout the month, are the symbols of the holy Islamic month of Ramadan. The candles are lit, the mosques decorated; Ramadan comes along once again with its usual peacefulness... Ramadan, which came before the end of summer this year, ensures that we all make a calm, restful entry into the season. Our magazine, as usual, is vibrant and entertaining this month. The ultra metropolis-Istanbul, the Grand Bazaar, Galata district, Bosphorus and many luxurious shopping areas, e-travel news for those who are running out of time to plan their vacation, global cultural and arts centers worth discovering, Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, an interview with Ayhan Sicimo¤lu and a fashion shoot at Dedeman fianl›urfa... All in the fourth issue of DQ. There is also a campaign that we would like to inform our distinguished guests about. If you are planning on staying at any of the Dedeman Hotels until October 1, we are offering a free stay for one night, in any Dedeman Hotels of your choice. This campaign is valid until the end of 2009, in any of the 15 domestic or 7 abroad hotels within the Dedeman Hotels. All you have to do to benefit from this special offer is to acquire a Dedeman Loyal Club Membership and stay at a Dedeman Hotel for over two nights. Happy holidays... Tamer Yürüko¤lu Genel Müdür / General Manager Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International 1 DQ ‹Ç‹NDEK‹LER-CONTENTS 12 ajanda-zoom 04 Türkiye’de ve dünyada olup bitenler The news from Turkey and the world kültür sanat-culture&art 12 Sanat›n Modern Mabetleri The Modern Sanctuaries of Art seyahat-travel 22 22 32 32 38 44 71 Yetenekli Bay Sicimo¤lu The Talented Mr. Sicimo¤lu Karadeniz Sofras› A seat at the Black Sea table Tarihi, sanat›, esteti¤i ve e¤lenceyi bir arada sunan flehir ‹stanbul Istanbul- a city where history, art, and culture meet Mistik fianl›urfa Mystical Sanl›urfa GENEL YAYIN YÖNETMEN‹ EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Arzu Karacada¤ KATKIDA BULUNANLAR - CONTRIBUTORS Ceyda Kurtifl, Esin Müftüo¤lu, O¤uz Is›göllü, Sibel Karabeyo¤lu, Elif Eren, Murat Tekin, Birgül Giriflkin REKLAM GRUP BAfiKANI ADVERTISING GROUP CHAIRMAN Gonca Alyanak Savc› REKLAM KOORD‹NATÖRÜ ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Tolgay Gülten REKLAM MÜDÜRÜ ADVERTISING MANAGER Özgür Kurum MÜfiTER‹ TEMS‹LC‹LER‹ CUSTOMER DIRECTORS Gözde Çevik, Özgür Çokgezen AJANS MEDYA Kuruçeflme Caddesi, No: 3 Kuruçeflme 34345 ‹stanbul Tel: 0212 287 19 90 Sanal Seyahat: Yeni nesil gezginler yolculu¤a nas›l haz›rlan›yor? Virtual Traveling: How the younger generation plan a vacation? BASKI VE C‹LT / PRINTING PRESS Apa Uniprint Bas›m San. ve Tic. A.fi. Had›mköy ‹stanbul Asfalt›, Ömerliköy Mevkii 34555 Had›mköy, Çatalca- ‹stanbul Tel: 0212 798 28 42 haberler-news Yay›n Türü 3 ayl›k, süreli, yerel Bas›m Yeri ve Tarihi ‹stanbul, Eylül 2009 Dedeman dünyas›n›n yenilikleri The latest news from Dedeman Dedeman Hotel&Resorts International’›n ücretsiz yay›n›d›r. Complimentary copy of Dedeman Hotels&Resorts International. öykü-story 78 YAPIM - PRODUCTION AJANS MEDYA ‹NG‹L‹ZCE BÖLÜM ED‹TÖRÜ ENGLISH SECTION EDITOR Esen Boyac›giller trend 66 YÖNET‹M YER‹ - EXECUTIVE CONTACT Dedeman Hotel&Resorts International Y›ld›z Posta Caddesi No.52 34340 Esentepe- ‹stanbul Tel: 0212 337 39 00 www.dedeman.com röportaj-interview moda-fashion 54 ‹MT‹YAZ SAH‹B‹ - CHAIRMAN Dedeman Hotel&Resorts International ad›na Tamer Yürüko¤lu YAZI ‹fiLER‹ MÜDÜRÜ (SORUMLU) MANAGING EDITOR Nevra Candaner kent-city 44 DEDEMAN QUARTERLY Taflkent-Semerkand-Buhara Tashkent-Samarkand-Bukhara yemek-food 38 DQ Ya¤mur T. Erdem’den yine flafl›rtan bir hikâye A shocking tale from Ya¤mur T. Erdem 54 KAPAK FOTO⁄RAFI-COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: ES‹N MÜFTÜO⁄LU Dergide yay›mlanan yaz›, foto¤raf ve illüstrasyonlar›n her hakk› sakl›d›r. Kaynak gösterilmeden al›nt› yap›lamaz. Yaz›lar›n sorumlulu¤u yazarlara, yay›nlanan ilanlar›n sorumlulu¤u ise sahiplerine aittir. All rights are reserved that pertain to the written materials, photographs and illustrations published in the magazine. Nothing in this magazine may be borrowed or reproduced without full credit being given to the source. AJANDA DQ 11. ‹STANBUL B‹ENAL‹ 11TH ISTANBUL BIENNALE 12 Eylül-8 Kas›m tarihleri aras›nda gerçekleflecek olan 11. Uluslararas› ‹stanbul Bienali, 40 ülkeden dünya güncel sanat çevrelerinde tan›nan ya da yeni keflfedilen 69 sanatç› ve sanatç› grubunun çal›flmalar›na yer verecek. Bu sanatç›lar›n 9'u da Türkiye'den. Bienale davet edilen Türk sanatç›lar Nevin Alada¤, Yüksel Arslan, Cengiz Çekil, Ifl›l E¤rikavuk, ‹nci Furni, Nilbar Gürefl, Aydan Murtezao¤lu & Bülent fiangar, Erkan Özgen ve Canan fienol. Ba¤›ms›z çal›flmalar›n› H›rvatistan’›n Zagrep kentinde sürdüren WHW / What, How & for Whom küratörlü¤ünde düzenlenecek bienalin kavramsal çerçevesi "‹nsan Neyle Yaflar?". WHW bu çerçeveyi belirlerken Bertolt Brecht'in ‘Üç Kuruflluk Opera’ adl› oyununun ikinci perdesinin kapan›fl flark›s›ndan ilham alm›fl. This year the 11th International Istanbul Biennale will take place from 12 September to 8 November. The festival will feature 69 up-and-coming filmmakers (individuals or groups) from 40 different countries. 9 of these filmmakers are from Turkey. Nevin Alada¤, Yüksel Arslan, Cengiz Çekil, Ifl›l E¤rikavuk, ‹nci Furni, Nilbar Gürefl, Aydan Murtezao¤lu & Bülent fiangar, Erkan Özgen and Canan fienol are the Turkish artists who have been invited to Biennale this year. The Zagreb, Croatia-based non-profit organization, WHW / What, How & for Whom, is responsible for the curating of the Biennale this year. They have chosen the theme, ‘What Keeps Mankind Alive?’, from the closing song of the second act of Bertolt Brecht's ‘The Threepenny Opera’, written 80 years ago. 5 Tasar›m dünyas›n›n en prestijli ve heyecan verici etkinliklerinden %100 Design, 24-27 Eylül’de Londra’da, Earls Court’ta düzenleniyor. Mimarl›k ve endüstriyel tasar›m dünyas›n› a¤›rlayan %100 Design en yeni tasar›mlar›n, yenilikçi ve sürdürebilir mimarl›k ürünlerinin, 盤›r açacak yeni materyallerin sergilendi¤i bir platform. Farkl› disiplinleri biraraya getiren seminerleri etkinli¤e daha akademik bir boyut kazand›r›yor. 100% Design is one of the most exciting and prestigious events in the design world. Taking place from 24-27 September at Earls Court in London, the event hosts key members from the worlds of architecture and industrial design. New designs, modern and sustanaible design products and trendsetting materials are displayed at this event. The seminars, which bring individuals from divergent design disciplines together, serve to add a more academic tilt to the event. 6 RÜZGARLI fiEH‹RDE Z‹YAFET THE WINDY CITY’S NEW HOTSPOT: L20 Yeme-içme dünyas›n›n renkli sahnelerinden fiikago’nun yeni restoran› L20, tam anlam›yla bir deniz mahsülleri mabedi. Güleryüzlü servis, sommellier Chantelle Pabros taraf›ndan özenle seçilmifl flarap listesi, yetenekli flef Laurent Grass’›n ellerinden ç›kma muhteflem menü L20’nin k›sa sürede gurmelerin adres defterine girmesini sa¤lad›. Dekorasyonuyla da di¤er üstünlüklerini pekifltiren L20, Travel+Leisure ve Esquire dergileri taraf›ndan y›l›n en iyi restoran› olarak taçland›r›ld›. 2300 North Lincoln Park Avenue; 773-868-0002; l2orestaurant.com. The windy city’s hot new restaurant, L20, is a seafood lover’s paradise. With a friendly staff, a specially selected wine list prepared by sommelier Chantelle Pabros and experienced chef Laurent Grass in the kitchen, L20 has become the destination for Chicagoan gourmands. And its décor has everyone else talking as well. It was even chosen as the best restaurant of the year by Travel+Leisure and Esquire. 2300 North Lincoln Park Avenue; 773-868-0002; l2orestaurant.com. ‹STANBUL RES‹TALLER‹ ISTANBUL RECITALS 2010 y›l› Chopin’in 200. do¤um y›ldönümü oldu¤undan ünlü besteci tüm dünyada farkl› etkinliklerle an›lacak. ‹stanbul Resitalleri de 2009-2010 sezonunu Chopin’in yap›tlar›na ay›rd›. 14 Ekim’de ünlü piyanist Ido Bar-Shai ile bafllayan resital dizisi 2010 y›l›n›n Haziran ay›na dek sürecek. Ülkemizde ilk defa sahneye ç›kacak olan ünlü gitar virtüözü Paul Galbraith’in resitali 18 Kas›m’da. ‹stanbul Resitalleri’nin tamam› Mustafa Kemal Merkezi’nde gerçekleflecek. Being that 2010 is the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth, the famous composer will be honored and remembered with many events. For their 2009-2010 season, The Istanbul Recitals will be focusing solely on the compositions of Chopin. The concert series, which will begin with the performance of famous pianist Ido Bar-Shai on 14 October, will continue until June 2010. Famous guitar virtuoso Paul Galbraith will be performing for the first time ever in Istanbul on 18 November- his performance is one of the most eagerly awaited. All Istanbul Recitals will take place at Mustafa Kemal Center. FOTO⁄RAF/PHOTOGRAPH O⁄UZ KURUM 28. ‹STANBUL K‹TAP FUARI Kitap merakl›lar›n›n her y›l heyecanla bekledi¤i ‹stanbul Kitap Fuar› bu y›l 28. kez düzenleniyor. Beylikdüzü’ndeki Tüyap Fuar ve Kongre Merkezi’nde, 31 Ekim-8 Kas›m tarihleri aras›nda gerçekleflecek fuar›n bu seneki ana temas› ve onur yazar›, flair, tiyatro elefltirmeni ve çevirmen Cevat Çapan. Fuar süresince Cevat Çapan’›n fliirleri, çevirileri ve yaflam› üzerine söylefli ve panellerin yer ald›¤› etkinlikler düzenlenecek. 28th ISTANBUL BOOK FAIR The Istanbul Book Fair, which is a favorite event among bookworms, will take place for the 28th time this year. The event, which will take place from 31 October to 8 November at Beylikdüzü’s Tüyap Fuar ve Kongre Merkezi (Tuyap Fair and Convention Center), will focus on writer, poet, theatre critic and translator Cevat Çapan. Throughout the fair, Capan’s poems, translations and life will be discussed in panels and other events. 7 AJANDA 8 DQ SARK‹S RETROSPEKT‹F Sanat dünyas›n›n önde gelen kifliliklerinden Sarkis’in retrospektifi Eylül ay›nda ‹stanbul Modern’de sergilenecek. Sanatç›n›n 50 y›ll›k kariyerini içerecek sergi, Sarkis’in Türk modern sanat› üzerindeki etkilerini gözler önüne seren bir dönüm noktas›. ‹stanbul Modern’de bir sanatç› için haz›rlanan en kapsaml› seri olma özelli¤ini tafl›yan retrospektif için sanatç›n›n çeflitli eserleri dünya üzerindeki 14 müzeden ‹stanbul’a getirilecek. Sergi 2010 y›l›nda Paris’teki Centre Georges Pompidou ve Cenevre’deki Musee d'art Moderne et Contemporain’de tekrarlanacak. SARKIS RETROSPECTIVE The work of Turkish-born Armenian conceptual artist Sarkis Zabunyan will be featured in a retrospective at Istanbul Modern in September. The exhibit will cover the artist’s 50-year career and his impact on Turkish modern art and is the most comprehensive exhibit Istanbul Modern has ever had. Artwork from over 14 museums around the world will be collected and brought to Istanbul for the exhibit. The exhibit will move to Paris’s Centre Georges Pompidou and Geneva’s Musee d'art Moderne et Contemporain in 2010. AMSTERDAM ULUSLARARASI BELGESEL F‹LM FEST‹VAL‹ AMSTERDAM INTERNATIONAL DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL 1988 y›l›ndan bu yana her y›l tüm dünyadan 250 belgesel filmi izleyicileriyle buluflturan Amsterdam Uluslararas› Belgesel Film Festivali, dünyadaki en büyük belgesel film festivali. Pathé de Munt ve Pathé Tuschinski’de hayat bulan festivale her y›l 100.000’den fazla sinemasever kat›l›yor. Y›l›n en iyi belgesellerinin seçildi¤i festivalde filmler befl farkl› daldaki ödül için yar›fl›yor. The Amsterdam International Documentary Film Festival, the world’s biggest documentary film festival, has been showcasing 250 of the best documentary films from around the world since 1988. The festival takes place in Pathé de Munt and Pathé Tuschinski and is attended by over 100.000 cinemaphiles. The films compete in 5 different categories, and a nomination let alone a win is a huge honor, as this is the biggest of all documentary film festivals. AJANDA 10 DQ SEYAHAT NOTLARI TRAVEL NOTES Amsterdam’›n her y›l tüm dünyadan 22.000’den fazla kat›l›mc›y› çeken ünlü maratonu bu y›l 18 Ekim’de koflulacak. Olimpik stadyumda bafllay›p biten maraton, trafik olmadan h›zl› bir flehir turu atmak için de ideal. Amsterdam’›n engebesiz, düz bir flehir olmas› maratonu amatörler için de cazip k›l›yor. The Amsterdam Marathon will take place on 18 October this year. The event draws over 22.000 participants and begins and ends at the Olympic stadium. The city is ideal for marathons- even for amateurs! - being that it’s mostly flat and traffic-free. Berlin Duvar›’n›n y›k›lmas›n›n üstünden 20 y›l geçti. Utanç duvar›n›n yoklu¤u bu y›l eski rotas›n› takip eden domino tafl› zincirinin devrilmesi ile kutlanacak. Son domino tafl› Brandenburg Kap›s› üstünden havai fiflekleri ateflleyecek ve tüm gece sürecek konser ve partileri bafllatacak. Y›llarca an›lacak bu gece 9 Kas›m’da. It’s been 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall. The absence of the wall will be celebrated in a rather unique way- dominos placed along the path of the original wall will be knocked over to symbolize the fall of the wall. After the last domino has fallen, the event will be celebrated with fireworks (shot into the air from the Brandenburg Wall) and an all night concert and party. This night, which will without a doubt be spoken about for years to come, will take place on 9 November. Otomobil tutkunlar›n›n iple çekti¤i Autoshow’un 13.sü yine her zamanki yerinde, CNR Expo’da düzenleniyor. Her y›l en yeni modellerin görücüye ç›kt›¤›, uluslararas› çaptaki fuar 28 Ekim-7 Kas›m tarihleri aras›nda düzenlenecek. The Autoshow, which is a favorite of automobile fanatics, will take place for the 13th time this year at the CNR Expo Center, as always. The event is particularly exciting as the newest car models are displayed. This international fair will take place from 28 October- 7 November. DQ 12 Sanat›n Modern Mabetleri KÜLTÜR&SANAT-CULTURE&ART The Modern Sanctuaries of Art Bilbao sonras› dönemde kültür-sanat mekanlar› as›k suratl› ciddiyetlerinden s›yr›l›p yetiflkinleri m›knat›s gibi çeken e¤lence parklar›na dönüfltü adeta. Bu çekimin sebebi içerideki paha biçilmez sanat eserleri mi yoksa binalar›n kendileri mi? Bir zamanlar terörizmi an›msatan, nefle yoksunu endüstri flehri Bilbao’ya turist olarak gitmek deliceydi. Bugünlerde ise dünyan›n en çok konuflulan müzesini görmek için milyonlarca insan Bilbao’ya ak›n ediyor. Los Angeles’l› mimar Frank Gehry’nin titanyum kapl› heykelsi Guggenheim Müzesi (www.guggenheim-bilbao.es) binas›n›n silüeti renksiz tersanelerin aras›ndan bir mucize gibi ›fl›yor. Sadece ilk y›l›nda 1.4 milyon ziyaretçi a¤›rlayan, çevredeki otellere, ma¤azalara ve restoranlara 200 milyon dolarl›k kazanç sa¤layan bir müzenin tüm dünya flehirlerinin ifltah›n› kabartmas› gayet normal. Kültür turizmi yeni bir fenomen olmasa da Guggenheim ile sanat›n çekim merkezi yaratma konusunda ne büyük bir güç oldu¤unu tüm dünya görmüfl oldu. Seyahat planlar›nda yer almayan bir flehri bir anda cazip k›lan ya da popüler bir flehrin çok bilinmeyen ama büyük hazineler bar›nd›ran kültür-sanat mekanlar› sanatseverlerin rotas›nda art›k. 13 At the post-Bilbao era, cultural and art institutes have ceased to be haughty, serious places; instead, they are almost like amusement parks attracting adults. Is the reason behind this new change merely the valuable works of art in the interior or perhaps the buildings themselves? Once, it was considered madness to visit Bilbao, the industrial city which connotated terrorism and absolutely lacked all charm, as a tourist. Today, all sorts of people are rushing to Bilbao to visit the world’s most talked about museum. The titanium covered, sculpture-like building of the Guggenheim Museum (www.guggenheim-bilbao.es) , designed by architect Frank Gehry, shines like a true miracle amidst all the colorless shipbuilder’s yards. It is quite natural that this museum, which 1.4 million people have visited in its first year alone, and which has helped the neighboring hotels, shops and restaurants make a profit of 200 million dollars, should raise the curiosity of all the world capitals. Even though cultural tourism is not a new phenomenon, Guggenheim has demonstrated to the world just how powerful a source of gravity art can be. Culture and art institutes, which make a previously unpopular city more appealing, or which remain less known despite the magnificent treasures they contain, are now in the art lover’s travel agenda. 14 Richard Rogers ve Renzo Piano ifli ald›klar›nda henüz 30’lar›nda iki mimard›. Hippi ideallerini Paris’te, Pompidou’nun d›fl›ndaki capcanl› renkteki boru donan›m›yla ilan ettiler. Turistlerin beflte biri binan›n içine dahi girmeyip Pompidou’ya Eyfel Kulesi muamelesi yapsa da buras› modern sanat›n mabetlerinden. Sergilerin yan› s›ra tiyatro, sinema, müzik, edebiyat gibi sanat dallar›n› asla ihmal etmeyen güncel programlar düzenliyorlar. CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU www.cnac-gp.fr Gelecek program Ünlü Frans›z heykeltrafl Henri Gaudier-Brzeska’n›n 20 heykel ve 40 tablodan oluflan sergisi 14 Eylül’e kadar Centre Georges Pompidou’da. Upcoming Event The famous French architect Henri Gaudier- Brzeska’s exhibition, comprising of 20 sculptures and 40 paintings, will be in the Centre Georges Pompidou until September 14. When Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano got the job, they were both young architects, just in their 30s. They stated their hippy ideals with the colorful pipe decorations they installed on the exterior of Pompidou in Paris. Even though one fifth of the tourists don’t even enter into the center from gawking on the exterior and treat Georges Pompidou as if it were the Eiffel Tower, this is one of the sanctuaries of modern art. Aside from the exhibitions, it launches daily programs which include other branches of art, such as cinema, music and literature. Thames Nehri kenar›ndaki eski Bankside Elektrik Santrali’nden müzeye dönüflen Tate Modern’in mimarlar› ‹sviçreli Herzog&de Meuron. 2000 y›l›nda aç›lan müze Londra’n›n geliflmemifl bir bölgesi olan South Bank’a yeni bir yüz kazand›rd›. Beklentilerin üç kat› ziyaretçi çeken müzenin 2012’de aç›lacak ek binas›n›n mimar› da Herzog&de Meuron olacak. Müzenin kal›c› koleksiyonundaki 1500 modern sanat eserinden ço¤u ‹ngiliz sanatç›lara ait. The architects of Tate Modern, which was previously the Bankside Power Center by the River Thames, are the Swiss Herzog & de Meuron. The museum, opened in the year 2000, has brought new life to London’s less developed area, South Bank. It has attracted three times more visitors as much than was expected, and the architects of the additional building, opening in the year 2012, will also be Herzog & de Meuron. Among the 1500 works of art from the museum’s permanent collection, most belong to British artists. TATE MODERN www.tate.org.uk Gelecek program 1 Ekim-17 fiubat tarihleri aras›ndaki “Pop Life: Art in a Material World” sergisinde günlük hayat›n sanata yak›n duran objeleri boy gösteriyor. Upcoming Event In the “Pop Life: Art in a Material World” exhibition, taking place from October 1 until February 17, objects from daily life which have an artistic dimension to them, will be displayed. 15 MILWAUKEE ART MUSEUM www.mam.org 16 20.000 sanat eseri ile y›lda 300.000’den fazla ziyaretçiyi a¤›rlayan Milwaukee Art Museum, 120 y›ld›r sanat peflinde. Müzede yer alan Avrupa sanat› eserleri 15.yüzy›la, Amerikan sanat› eserleri 17. yüzy›la dek uzan›yor. 1957’de usta mimar Eero Saarinen taraf›ndan tasarlanan ‘War Memorial Center’da savafl›n an›lar› yaflat›l›yor. 2001’de Santiago Calatrava taraf›ndan ana binaya eklenen ve postmodern bir heykeli and›ran yeni pavyon hem müzenin cazibesini art›rd›, hem de geçici sergiler için üç yeni salon sa¤lad›. Milwaukee Art Museum has been serious about art for the past 120 years and has attracted more than 300,000 visitors each year with its collection of more than 20,000 pieces. The European artworks date back to the 15th century, and the American ones to the 17th century. The memoirs of War are re-lived in the “War Memorial Center”, designed by professional architect Eero Saarinen in 1957. The new pavilion which resembles a post-modern statue, and which was added to the main building in 2001 by Santiago Calatarva, has both added to the flair of the building and has provided three new rooms for temporary exhibitions. Gelecek program Pop-art kral› Andy Warhol’un son dönem ifllerinin yer alaca¤› ‘Andy Warhol: The Last Decade’ sergisi 26 Eylül’den 3 Ocak’a kadar Milwaukee Art Museum’da. Upcoming Event The “Andy Warhol: The Last Decade” exhibition, displaying the latest works by pop-art king Andy Warhol, will take place between September 26 and January 3.. NEW ART GALLERY WALSALL www.artatwallsall.org.uk New Art Gallery Walsall, dinamik sergi programlar›yla sanat› daha e¤lenceli bir hale getiriyor. Müze, iki kat›n› yaflayan sanatç›lara ve görsel sanatlara ay›r›yor. Bir kat ise nispeten tarihi de¤eri olan eserlerle daha güncel olanlar› bir arada sergileyerek eskiyle yeni aras›nda bir köprü kuruyor. Müzenin kartpostaldan sinema perdesine de¤iflen boyutlardaki pencereli fasad›yla göz dolduran alt› katl› binas› mimarlar› Peter St John ve Adam Caruso’yu uluslararas› birer y›ld›z yapt›. New art gallery Wallsall makes art even more fun with its dynamic exhibitions. It devotes two of its floors to current artists and visual arts. Another floor displays more historical artworks alongside contemporary ones, thus building a bridge between the past and the present. The eye catching museum building, whose façade is replete with windows both as small as postcards and as large as movie curtains, made the architects Peter St John and Adam Caruso into superstars. INHOTIM Inhotim.org.br Brezilya’n›n s›k ormanlar›n›n derinlerinde, Brumandinho’da dünyan›n en fantastik modern sanat merkezi yat›yor. 1200 hektarl›k alan› kaplayan sekiz galerili müze ve heykel park›na 35 hektarl›k botanik bahçe ve 400 hektarl›k ekolojik koruma alan› da dahil. Ekolojiyle sanat› birlikte sunan müzenin koleksiyonu 1960 ve sonras› sanata odakl›. 400’ü aflk›n eserin ço¤unlu¤u Brezilyal› sanatç›lardan. In Brumandinho, the depths of lush Brazilian forests, lies the world’s most fantastic modern art museum. It takes up a colossal space; eight museum galleries and the garden of statues stretch over nearly three thousand acres; in addition, there is a botanical garden of about 85 acres and en ecological protection site of nearly 990 acres. The artwork is mostly from the post 1960 era and the works exceed 400; they are mostly from Brazilian artists. 17 Gelecek program 25 Eylül’de bafllay›p 15 Kas›m’da sona erecek ‘Poetry in Silver’ sergisi gümüflün tasar›mla randevusu adeta. Upcoming Event A date designed in silver: The 'Poetry in Silver' exhibition will take place from 25 September to 15 November. 18 PINAKOTHEK DER MODERNE www.pinakothek.de Almanya’n›n müze merkezi Münih’teki Pinakothek der Moderne ultra modern görüntüsüne yak›fl›r flekilde sanat, tasar›m, grafik ve mimari üzerine yo¤unlafl›yor. Güncel sergilerle her daim ziyaretçi çeken müze 20. ve 21. yüzy›l Avrupa sanat›n›n en seçkin koleksiyonlar›ndan birini bar›nd›r›yor. Centered in Germany’s museum city, Munich, the Pinakhotek has its focus on art, design, architecture and graphic design, as befitting its ultra-modern exterior. It attracts visitors on a daily basis with its exhibitions and has a vast collection of 20th and 21st century European art. OSLO OPERA HOUSE www.oslooperahouse.com Oslo hiçbir zaman Avrupa’n›n opera merkezlerinden biri olmad›. Ama flehrin yeni opera binas› bu durumu de¤ifltirebilir. Norveçli mimari firmas› Snøhetta taraf›ndan tasarlanan yeni bina, elefltirmenlerden geçer not ald›. At nal› fleklindeki oditoryum sadece bir sanat eseri de¤il. Akustik aç›dan da dinleyicileri mest edecek kalitede. Oslo has never been a European capital for opera, but the city’s new opera house just might change that. The new building, designed by the Swedish architecture firm Snøhetta, has been approved by the critics. The auditorium shaped like a horseshoe is not just a work of art, but also an acoustic tool which brings out a sound quality that can send the listeners to heaven. Gelecek program Oslo Opera Binas›’nda Eylül ay› dans ay›. Üç koreograftan klasik müzik eflli¤inde üç yeni performans sergilenecek. Upcoming Event In the Oslo Opera House, September is the month of dance. Three new performances from three different choreographs will take place, accompanied by classical music. 19 Gelecek program Video sanat›n›n ‹sviçreli süperstar› Pipilotti Rist’in son iflleri 5 Eylül’den 6 Aral›k’a kadar Kiasma’da sergilenecek. Upcoming Event The latest works of Pipilotti Rist, Switzerland’s superstar in video art, will be shown between September 5- December 6. KIASMA MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART www.kiasma.fi. Amerikal› mimar Steven Holl’ün ç›lg›n tasar›m› modern sanat› günü gününe yaflayan, sanat› deneyimlerken zevk almay› hedefleyen bir kültürel merkez. Y›ll›k 200.000’den fazla ziyaretçisiyle Helsinki’nin hatta Finlandiya’n›n en çok ziyaret edilen müzesi. American architect Steven Hall’s crazy design is based on experiencing art on a daily basis and enjoying it while experimenting with it. It’s Helsinki’s, in fact Finland’s, most popular museum with over 200,000 visitors every year. 20 NEW MUSEUM TOKYO MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN www.newmuseum.org www.madmuseum.org Marcia Tucker 1977’de kurdu¤u New Museum of Contemporary Art, 2007’de Tokyolu mimarlar Kazuyo Sejima ve Ryue Nishizawa taraf›ndan tasarlanan yeni binas›na yerleflti. Modern sanata ve yeni fikirlere duydu¤u heyecan› da beraberinde tafl›d›. Güncel sergilerin yan›nda özel projeleriyle sanatta yenili¤e duydu¤u ilgiyi sürdürüyor. Eski Amerikan El Sanatlar› Müzesi, alt› y›ll›k u¤rafllar›n ard›ndan 12 katl› yeni binas› ve yeni ismiyle Manhattan’›n kalbinde yükseliyor. Central Park manzaral› galeri mekanlar›n›n do¤al ›fl›kla ayd›nlanmas› için özel olarak tasarlanan cam fasatl› modern bina Manhattan’a taze kan oldu. 20. yüzy›l›n ortalar›ndan bugüne uzanan genifl bir zaman aral›¤›na tan›kl›k eden 2000’den fazla objenin bulundu¤u kal›c› koleksiyonun yan›nda sanatla tasar›m› ayn› potada eriten sergiler müzede yer buluyor. The New Museum of Contemporary Art, founded by Maria Tucker in 1977, has moved to its new building designed by the Tokyo architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, in 2007. As could be expected, it has also carried the excitement for modern art and new, original ideas to its new building. In addition to exhibitions, it continues the enthusiasm it has for modern art with its special projects. Gelecek program Urs Fischer’›n aynalardan yap›lm›fl bir labirent gibi ç›lg›nca fikirleriyle 28 Ekim’den 24 Ocak’a kadar New Museum’un galerileri, büyüleyici bir ortama dönüflecek. Upcoming Event The galleries of the New Museum will transform into a magical realm between October 28 and January 24, with Urs Fischer’s labyrinth made of mirrors. Gelecek program 7 Ekim’den 4 Nisan’a dek sürecek ‘Slash: Paper under the Knife’ sergisi sanat formlar›nda ka¤›d›n materyal olarak kullan›m›n› konu ediyor. Upcoming Event The “Slash: Paper Under Knife” exhibition, taking place from October 7 until April 4, displays how paper was used as material in various forms of art. The museum, previously known as American Crafts Museum, rises in the heart of Manhattan with its new name and 12 storey new building, after six years of toil. The modern building has been designed with a special glass façade in order for the galleries overlooking Central Park to be illuminated with natural daylight. The museum has been a new source of attraction for the already lively Manhattan. It has more than 2000 works in its permanent collection dating from the mid-twentieth century until today, alongside exhibitions which merge art and design. Gelecek program New York’taki School of Visual Arts’›n Güzel Sanatlar Bölümü ö¤retim üyeleri, mezunlar› ve ö¤rencilerine ait 111 yap›t 4 Ekim’e dek Pera Müzesi’nde. Upcoming Event 111 works of art made by the instructors, alumni and students of the New York School of Visual Arts, Fine Arts Department will be displayed in the Pera Museum until October 4. PERA MUSEUM www.peramuzesi.org.tr 1893 y›l›nda mimar Achille Manoussos taraf›ndan infla edilen, uzun y›llar Bristol Oteli ad›yla tan›nan yap› mimar Sinan Genim taraf›ndan restore edilerek bugünkü müze binas›na dönüfltürüldü. Suna ve ‹nan K›raç Vakf›’n›n giriflimiyle 2005’te kap›lar›n› açan Pera Müzesi ailenin paha biçilemez üç özel koleksiyonunu bar›nd›rman›n yan› s›ra güncel sergilere de ev sahipli¤i yap›yor. 21 The building, which had been designed by architect Achille Manoussos and had for long years served as Bristol Hotel, has been restored by the architect Sinan Genim and transformed into the current museum building. The Pera Museum, opened in 2005 with the contributions of the Suna and ‹nan K›raç Foundation, shelters the priceless three collections of the K›raç family as well as hosting regular exhibitions. SÜREYYA OPERA www.sureyyaoperasi.org 6 Mart 1927 y›l›nda muhteflem bir galayla aç›lan bina eski ‹stanbul milletvekili Süreyya ‹lmen taraf›ndan ‘Süreyya Opereti Binas›’ ad›yla yapt›r›ld› ve y›llarca cumhuriyet balolar›, konser ve operalara sahne oldu. ‹çindeki tablo ve süslemeler Naci Kalmuko¤lu’na ait. 1930’lu y›llardan 2005’e kadar, sinema olarak hizmet veren bina mimar Cafer Bozkurt’un yürüttü¤ü restorasyon projesi ile yeniden operalar›n, tiyatrolar›n sergilenece¤i bir kültür merkezine dönüfltürüldü. Gelecek program Yeni sezon Ekim’de bafll›yor. Aç›l›fl konseri 28 Eylül akflam›. Upcoming Event The season begins in October. Opening concert September 28, in the evening. Named after Süreyya ‹lmen, who had once been the Senator of Istanbul, the opera house had opened with a magnificent gala in March 6, 1927. It has hosted balls, concerts and operas for many years. The paintings and decorations in the interior belong to Naci Kalmuko¤lu. With architect Cafer Bozkurt’s restoration, the building, which had served as a movie theater from 1930 until 2005, will once again be a cultural center, hosting operas and theaters. DQ 22 SEYAHAT-TRAVEL Taflkent Semerkand Buhara: ‹pekyolu üzerinde do¤an günefl Tashkent Samarkand Bukhara: step by step through the East YAZI-BY DAMLA KELLEC‹O⁄LU Gelmifl geçmifl en büyük fatihlerden Aksak Timur’un anavatan›, Sovyetler Birli¤i’nin üzerine titredi¤i gözbebe¤i Özbekistan kendine has kültür miras› ile dikkat çekiyor. Sovyet kentleflmesinin izleri, 1400 y›ll›k bir tarihle omuz omuza vermifl. Amin Maalouf kitaplar›na konu olan baharatlarla yo¤urulmufl do¤unun mistisizmi, Rus kültürünün düzenli yap›s› ile birlefliyor. Medreseleri, camileri, hanlar› ve an›tlar›yla flehirler birer aç›k hava müzesine dönüflüyor. Taflkent “Sovyet mimarisi ve farkl› tatlar” Yeflilin farkl› renkleriyle bezeli Taflkent, Özbekistan’›n Sovyet kültüründen en çok nasibini alm›fl flehri. Özellikle Japon bahçeleri, yemyeflil parklar› ve yollar›yla dikkat çeken Özbek baflkenti hava güzelse uzun yürüyüfller yapmak için ideal. Sovyetlerin keskin mimarisiyle infla edilmifl yap›lar› ve metrosu, flehrin do¤ulu kültürüne yabanc›laflman›z› sa¤l›yor. Genifl caddelerde yükselen çok katl› masif binalar bir dönem ülkede hüküm sürmüfl Sovyet egemenli¤inin alt›n› çiziyor. Amir Timur Müzesi Aksak Timur’un 660. do¤um y›l› münasebetiyle infla edilmifl, özellikle mavi kubbesi ile dikkat çekiyor. fiehrin merkezinde bulunan Timur an›t› da görülmeye de¤er... fiehirde bunun d›fl›nda uygulamal› sanatlardan edebiyata, güzel sanatlardan Özbek tarihine farkl› temalara sahip birçok müze bulunuyor. Opera ve bale merakl›lar› için ise, Atatürk caddesindeki Aliflir Nevai Operas›’na giderek Sovyet disipliniyle e¤itim görmüfl sanatç›lar›n etkileyici performanslar›n›n izlenmesi tavsiye ediliyor. The baby of the Soviet Union, Uzbekistan, was home to one of the greatest conquerors of our time, Aksak Timur. Uzbekistan was the epitome of culture and heritage for the Soviet Union. The Soviet Union formed over a time of 1400 years when it finally reached its completion. Amin Maalouf’s many books described a mystical place in the East full of spices and innovative cultures and beliefs, which was at the time very similar to the culture that was found in Russia, something familiar to that region. Madrassas, mosques, buildings and memorials turn these cities within the Soviet Union into open-air museums. Tashkent “Soviet architecture with a twist” This city is one of the few that illustrate the culture and lifestyle of the Eastern block countries. The Japanese gardens throughout the city and long walk paths that pass through vast parks are the perfect way to enjoy the Uzbek capital, and the perfect way to get around it. Parts of the city completely erase the Eastern elements that it was once famous for, but new additions to the city are a plus; the subway system and new architectural additions renew the city’s tarnished and aged look. The wide streets and tall elaborate buildings that are scattered throughout the city reminisce of the Soviet dictatorship that once ruled the region. The Amir Timur Museum building was established 660 years after Aksak Timur’s death; the blue dome of the museum is especially eye-catching. 23 24 fiehrin merkezindeki Oloy ve Çorsu pazarlar›, otantik kuruyemifl, meyve ve baharat severler için bir cennet gibi. Çorsu pazar›n›n yak›n›ndaki Kukeldafl Medresesi, kubbesi, iki yandaki kuleleri ve sade çal›flma odalar›yla infla edildi¤i 16. yüzy›l›n belirgin mimari özelliklerini tafl›yor. Taflkent’in bir di¤er önemli noktas› ise, 7. yüzy›lda yaz›lm›fl dünyan›n en eski Kuran-› Kerim’ine ev sahipli¤i yapan Moyie Mubarek Müzesi. Hz. Muhammed’in ölümünden yaln›zca 19 y›l sonra yaz›lm›fl olan bu eser, kentin Ortaça¤’dan bu yana özgünlü¤ünü korumufl semtlerinden Zarkaynar’da ziyaretçilerini bekliyor. Her ne kadar flehri yeralt›ndan gezmek tercih edilen bir yol olmasa da, Taflkent’te mutlaka görülmesi gereken yerlerden biri de Taflkent metrosu. ‹nan›lmaz düzeni, fl›kl›¤› ve temizli¤i ile Taflkent metrosunda birkaç durak gitmek ve e¤er mümkünse Pakhtakor istasyonundaki ayd›nlatmay› görmek insan›n bafl›n› döndürüyor. 1977’de hizmete aç›lan metroda foto¤raf çekmek ne yaz›k ki yasak. Yolu Taflkent’e düflen her ziyaretçi mutlaka televizyon kulesine ç›karak flehri mümkün olan en yüksek noktadan izliyor. Alabildi¤ine genifl bir görüfl alan› sunan bu kule sayesinde kentin yerleflimi ve mimarisi hakk›nda fikir sahibi olmak mümkün. Semerkant “Aksak Timur’un baflkenti” Masallara, hikayelere, söylenlere konu olmufl Semerkant, UNESCO taraf›ndan Dünya Kültürel Miras listesine al›nm›fl. M.Ö. 7. yüzy›lda kurulmufl olan kent, alt›n ça¤›n› 14 ve 15. yüzy›llarda Timur ‹mparatorlu¤u’nun en parlak devrinde yaflam›fl. Hâlen Özbekistan’›n en büyük ikinci flehri ünvan›n› tafl›yan Semerkant, medreseleri, camileri ve Ortaça¤ yaflam›ndan tafl›d›¤› izler ile islam kültürünün ve yarat›c›l›¤›n›n en seçkin örneklerinden biri. Her ne kadar 19. yüzy›lda Rus bombard›man› s›ras›nda flehrin birçok yap›s› neredeyse tamamen y›k›lm›fl olsa da, binalar›n ço¤u zamanla, özellikle son on befl y›l içinde restore edilmifl. Mistisizmin doruklar›nda Ortaça¤ islam kültürünün yans›malar›n› görmek isteyenler için Semerkant kaç›r›lmamas› gereken bir f›rsat. Bibi Hanum Camii, Ulu¤bey Medresesi, fier-Dor Medresesi ve Tilya-Kori Medresesini içinde bar›nd›ran Registan Meydan›, fiah-i Zinda dönemin mimari özelliklerini birebir yans›tan flaheserler. The Timur memorial in the city center is another site worth seeing. Other educational components of the city to see are the art museums that depict and illustrate Uzbek culture through different forms of artistic expression. Famous opera and ballet performances can be found on Ataturk Street at the Aliflir Nevai Opera. These performances display the history of dance and opera within the Soviet Union, and are beautiful performances. City centre markets, Oloy and Çorsu, are a haven for those who love fruits, nuts, and spices. Next to Çorsu market, the Kukeldafl Madrassa is an architectural work of art, dating back to the 16th Century. Tashkent is also home to a very important scripture from the 7th Century; the world’s oldest Koran can be found in the Moyie Mubarek Museum. 19 years after the Prophet Mohammed’s death, this Koran was written. The city where this Koran is housed, Zarkaynar, is a town that during the Middle Ages was known for its liberalism. Touring this town underground, as is possible in many other cities, can be done by means of the metro. The Tashkent metro should definitely be seen and used. It is surprisingly very organized, clean and chic. Pakhtakor, a few stops down the line, has amazing light fixtures and lighting throughout the station. Unfortunately, at the time of the station’s opening in 1977, photography was illegal. Those who plan to visit Tashkent should be sure to visit the Television tower, which is the highest point in the city, and has breathtaking views. The views give you an overall idea of how the city was structured and planned out architecturally. Samarkand “Aksak Timur’s capital” Used in fairytales, stories, and famous speeches, Samarkand has been the topic of conversation for quite some time. Named a “World Heritage Site” by UNESCO, this city was established in 7 B.C., and during the 14th and 15th centuries, at the time of the Timurid Empire, it was one of the most valuable cities. It is still the 2nd largest city in Uzbekistan, and carries historical importance in Islamic culture and architecture left over from the Middle Ages. No matter how much trauma the area has seen due to Russian bombing in the 19th Century, the city still managed to pick itself up; most of buildings that were destroyed during the bombing have Taflkent, Sovyet mimarisi ile Orta Asya ‹slam kültürünü bir arada yaflat›yor. Tashkent is a place where one can view Soviet architecture and experience Middle Eastern Islamic culture at the same time. 26 Timur ‹mparatorlu¤u’nun baflkenti, Özbekistan’›n ise ikinci büyük flehri, Semerkant Timur Lenk’in, torunlar›n›n ve ö¤retmeninin mezarlar›na ev sahipli¤i yap›yor. Samarkand, once the capital of the Empire of Timur, and currently Uzbekistan’s second largest city, is the city where Timur Lenk, his teachers and grandchildren are buried. Semerkant’› Semerkant yapan Timur’un ve ailesinin mezarlar›n›n bulundu¤u Gür Emir mozolesi de mutlaka görülmesi gereken yerlerden. Tek kubbeli Gür Emir, kullan›lan mimarinin basitli¤i ve görsel ihtiflam› ile her görenin üzerinde kesin bir hakimiyet kuruyor. Mavi kubbesinin yan› s›ra d›fl duvar süslemerinde de s›kl›kla mavi, aç›k mavi ve beyaz renkler kullan›lm›fl. Kil briket üzerine yerlefltirilmifl geometrik ve epirgrafik desenler de dekorasyonun ana hatlar›n› oluflturuyor. Bir dönemin en azametli kahraman›n› a¤›rlayan mekan sade oldu¤u kadar göz kamaflt›r›c› ve etkileyici. Semerkant’a kadar gelmiflken kesinlikle görülmesi gereken bir di¤er nokta da Ulu¤ Bey rasathanesi. Aksak Timur’un torunu Ulu¤ Bey astronominin alt›n ça¤›n› bafllatm›fl tarihi bir kiflilik. ‹nfla edildi¤inde 30 metre yüksekli¤inde olan rasathanenin günümüzde yaln›zca tek kat› ayakta kalm›fl. 15. yüzy›lda Semerkant’ta kurdurdu¤u rasathanenin çal›flmalar› günümüzde hâlâ birçok bilim adam›n› flafl›rtacak kadar do¤ru. Kentin ihtiflam›ndan biraz uzaklafl›p küçük bir mahalle görmek isteyenler mutlaka yahudi mahallesine u¤ramal›. Registan Meydan›’na yürüyerek sadece befl dakika uzakl›ktaki mahallede eskiden Karahitlerin yaflamaktaym›fl ancak ‹srail’in kurulmas›yla birlikte giderek boflalm›fl. Dar, sevimli sokaklar biraz varofl görünümünde olmas›na ra¤men, s›cak ve canayak›n bir atmosfere sahip. fiehrin en çarp›c› ve en güzel özelliklerinden biri de ipek hal›lar›yla ünlü dokuma atölyeleri... ‹pe¤in bizzat Semerkant’ta ifllendi¤ini, ipli¤in burada üretildi¤ini ve tamamen do¤al kök boyalarla renklendirilidi¤ini söylemek yerinde olacak. Birbirinden farkl› desen ve renklerdeki hal›lar özellikle yolculuklardan eve otantik an›larla dönmeye merakl› tursitlerin göz bebe¤i. Eve dönerken al›nabilecek bir di¤er hediye de kalitesi tart›fl›lmayan ve birçok dükkanda tadabilece¤iniz Özbek flaraplar›. Do¤u kültüründe ayr› bir yeri olan flarapç›l›¤› bugünlere kadar sürdüren bölge, özellikle tatl› beyaz flarap, yumuflak içimli k›rm›z› flarap ve köpüklü flarap çeflitlerini denemek isteyenler için tam bir cennet. been restored during the past 15 years. Samarkand is a place that is a must-see for those interested in the development of Islam during the Middle Ages in the region, as there are many sites to see. Bibi Hanum Mosque, Ulu¤bey Madrassa, fier-Dor Madrassa and Tilya-Kori Madrassa, are just some of the few. The Timur family, who founded Samarkand, is buried in the city’s Gur Emir Mausoleum, and their resting spots are another site that is a must-see. The single-dome Gur Emir’s architectural style boasts supremacy over other sites that might have been seen prior in the city. The brick building has geometric and epigraphic designs, going up and down the building, organized in all different formations. The building was once a very plain sight to see, however restored into a wonder of architecture and design over the years, it has become one of the best sites to see in the city. While in the city, the Ulu¤ Bey Observatory should be a stop along your way. Aksak Timur’s grandson Ulu¤ Bey started a golden age in the field of astronomy. The observatory that he constructed reaches 30meters into the sky. Built during the 15th Century, this Samarkand marvel, is known all over the world as one of the most precise buildings built to see into the skies above. If visiting smaller towns is how you like to site-see, then the primarily Jewish town is the place to be. Only a mere 5-minute walk, the area, which was once inhabited by the Karahits, was predominately Jewish, and decreased in population after the formation of the Israeli state, Registan Center can be reached on foot. The narrow, pleasant, quaint streets, despite the noisiness, boast an old-town atmosphere of hospitality. The city’s most eye-catching aspects are the silk rug workshops and showrooms. The silk that is manufactured in Samarkand, is authentic. It is obtained from the area and all natural dyes are used. All varying in design and color, these rugs are the perfect memoirs to take back with you upon your return home. Another keepsake from the area to take back home, are Uzbek wines. The area is known for producing luxurious, tasty wines from red to rose these wines are fermented in Uzbek wineries along with bubbly wines. 27 Buhara “Egzotik, masals› ve bafl döndürücü” 28 ‹ki bin y›ldan eski bir geçmifle sahip Buhara, Ortaça¤ ‹slam dünyas›n›n bilim merkezi olarak nam salm›fl, bilginler, düflünürler ve bilim adamlar› a¤›rlam›fl bir kent. Özbekistan’›n beflinci büyük kenti olan Buhara, bir dönem tarih, din, e¤itim ve kültürün merkezi olmufl. Günümüzde bile en genç yap›n›n neredeyse 1000 yafl›nda oldu¤u kentin her soka¤›nda, her meydan›nda egzotik kokular ve tarihin izleri hüküm sürüyor. Medreseler, hanlar, kervansaraylar, tafl yap›lar ve camilerle dolu flehrin mimarisinin, kültürel dokusunun büyüsüne kap›lmamak, insanlar›n›n s›cakkanl›l›¤›dan etkilenmemek imkans›z. fiehirdeki medreselerin çoklu¤u vakti zaman›nda e¤itime verilen önemin bir kan›t› gibi. Bu medreselerden biri olan Mir Arap Medresesi, her dönem büyük düflünürlerin e¤itim ald›¤› bir kültür merkezi olmufl ve hâlâ e¤itim vermeye devam ediyor. Kalon Camii’nin minaresinden muhteflem görüntüsü izlenebilecek medrese, bölgeye özgü mavi kubbeleri ve giriflindeki mavi ifllemeleri ile bilim merkezi olma özelli¤ine sanatsal bir ihtiflam kat›yor. Medreseler d›fl›nda görülmesi gereken en önemli yerlerden biri de ‹smail Samani’nin mezar›. ‹nflas› yaklafl›k 50 y›l sürmüfl olan mezar 10. yüzy›l›n önde gelen mimari yap›lar›ndan biri ve uzaktan bak›ld›¤›nda adeta has›rdan bir dokumay› and›ran tafl oymac›l›¤› tekni¤i ile yap›lm›fl. Buhara’n›n en ünlü meydan› olan Leb-i Havuz bir çay ya da yemek molas› için biçilmifl kaftan. Meydanda bir havuz, havuzun yan› bafl›nda ise bizim Nasredttin Hoca’n›n çekik gözlü Özbek versiyonu olan “Nasrettin Efendi”nin heykeli bulunuyor. Geleneksel Özbek yemeklerinin tad›na bakmak için de ideal olan mekanda at etinden yap›lm›fl sucuklarla servis edilen özbek pilav›, tavuk fliflin farkl› baharatlarla marine edilmifl hâli olan flafll›k kebab›, Sovyetler Birli¤i’nin miras› olan Borfl çorbas› ya da farkl› lezzetler sunan so¤uk et taba¤› tercih edilebilir. Genel olarak az çeflitli ama leziz ve farkl› Özbek yemeklerinin tad›m›na geleneksel Özbek müzikleri ve bazen de Özbek halk danslar› efllik ediyor. Pazarlar ve kervansaraylar d›fl›nda pek çok medresenin günümüzde han, s›n›flar›n ise dükkan olarak kullan›ld›¤› Buhara’da al›flverifl bafll› bafl›na bir e¤lence : ‹smi duyulmam›fl baharatlar satan baharatç›lar, dünya üzerindeki tüm Türklerin medar-› iftihar› demir atölyeleri, çayc›lar, seramik ve minyatür sanatç›lar›, ipek tüccarlar›, birbirinden göz al›c› renklere sahip el ifli masa örtüsü satan kad›nlar ve daha neler neler... 29 30 Buhara, etkileyici mimari dokusu, binbir gece masallar›n›n atmosferi ve hediyelik eflya dükkanlar› ile ziyaretçilerinin bafl›n› döndürüyor. Bukhara enchants visitors with its impressive architectural structure, its Arabian atmosphere, and gift shops. Bukhara “Exotic, dreamy and completely captivating” Bukhara, with a history stretching back nearly 2000 years, is a city famous for having been the science capital of the Islamic world during the Middle Ages; it is a city that has hosted numerous philosophers and scientists. Uzbekistan’s fifth largest city had once been the focal point of history, religion, education and culture. Even today, the newest buildings are no less than 1000 years old; exotic smells and history lurk in every corner. It is impossible to not be impressed by the architecture of the city, with many beautiful inns, stone buildings, mosques, Madrassas and caravanserais, or by the warmth and the friendliness of the inhabitants. The large number of Madrassas display the importance placed on education at that time. One of these, the Mir Arab Madrassa, was once a place where the greatest philosophers received their education, and it still functions to this day as an educational center. The Madrassa, whose magnificence can be seen in full view from the minaret of the Kalon Mosque, also has an artistic dimension with blue domes and the blue décor at the entrance. A place that should definitely be visited, apart from the Madrassas, is the grave of Ismail Samani. The grave, whose construction took about fifty years, is one of the most important architectural works of the 10th century. It was done using glyptography techniques, and appears as if it were done in wicker from afar. Bukhara’s famous square, Leb-i Havuz, is the perfect place to have a tea break or a snack. There is a pool by the square, and right next to the pool, the statue of “Master Nasreddin,” the Uzbek version of our Nasreddin Hodja. To taste some typical Uzbek food, you can order Uzbek rice with garlic-flavored horsemeat sausages; flafll›k kebab, which is made from chicken marinated in different spices; Borch soup, inherited from the Soviets; or simply a plat of cold cuts. The traditional Uzbek food, not very plentiful, but nevertheless distinctive and delicious, is usually accompanied by Uzbek folk music, and sometimes traditional dances. Shopping is a wonderful way to entertain oneself in Bukhara; where most Madrassas are currently used as inns and most classrooms as shops, there are spice sellers offering spices unheard of, metal ateliers, which are the source of pride of all Turks world-wide, tea places, ceramic and cameo artists, silk traders, women selling handmade tablecloths with many eye-catching colors, and much more. 31 Nerede Kal›n›r? Dedeman Silk Road Taflkent (998) 71 120 3700 Amir Temur Str. C 4, No 7/8, Taflkent. 2000 y›ll›k geçmifliyle kendine hayran b›rakan Taflkent’te konaklamak için Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent iyi bir alternatif. 206 odal› otelde 24 saat oda servisi, internet ba¤lant›s›, elektronik kasa gibi konforunuz düflünülerek tasarlanm›fl pek çok ayr›nt›ya yer verilmifl. 5 farkl› ala carte restoran›, yar› olimpik kapal› yüzme havuzu, toplant› salonu, sauna, jakuzi, masaj, solaryum ve güzellik merkezi ile Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent görülmeye de¤er. Where to stay... Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent (998) 71 120 3700 Amir Temur Str. C 4, No 7/8, Tashkent. If you're considering staying in Tashkent in the near future, the Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent hotel is a great alternative. With 206 rooms, 24-hour room service, Internet, and much more your stay at the Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent will be comfortable, relaxing and convenient as is possible. With 5 different à la carte restaurants, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room, solarium and beauty center, meeting rooms, and an Olympic size pool that is half covered, half open-air, the Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent is your home away from home. DQ 32 RÖPORTAJ- INTERVIEW Yetenekli Bay / The Talented Mr. icimo¤lu RÖPORTAJ-INTERVIEW EDA ‹VGEN FOTO⁄RAF-PHOTOGRAPHY MURAT TEK‹N Sunucu, radyo ve televizyon programc›s›, gurme, perküsyon üstad› ve gezgin Ayhan Sicimo¤lu’yla bir ö¤leden sonra bulufltuk. Çok keyifli sohbetimizden sayfalar›m›za yans›yanlar... 33 Resmi yerlerde verilen formlar›n meslek bölümüne ne yaz›yorsunuz? 10 parmak 10 marifet falan m›? What could you possibly write as your profession when filling out official forms? After all, you’re a man of many talents! Asl›nda ona serbest demekle bafllar›m. Serbest meslek gibi, ne diyebilirim ki baflka. fiu s›ralar müzisyen televizyoncu kimli¤indeyim biraz. Hem televizyon programc›s›y›m, hem sunucuyum, hem yap›mc›y›m. Öyle bir araflt›rma ekibim yok. Bir kameraman, bir montajc› sadece. Geri kalan herfleyi ben hallediyorum. Tabii ki zevkle yap›yorum o ayr›. I would have to say I’m self-employed, what else could I say? These days I’m focusing more on my music and television careers. I’m the host and producer as well as program director of a TV show. I don’t have a team of researchers; rather, I have a cameraman and film editor- I take care of everything else, myself. Of course I enjoy doing it- that goes without saying. Herkesin bir serüveni var. Sizinki nas›l bafll›yor? How did this adventure begin? Benim serüvenim ortaokulda bafllad›. Talas Amerikan Koleji’ne gittim 11 yafl›mdayken, Erciyes Da¤› eteklerinde bir kasabadayd›. Son derece enteresan ve ütopik bir okuldu. Hani sihirbaz bir çocuk var ya Harry Potter, onun okulu gibiydi. Ö¤retmenleri de oradaki gibi tuhaft›. My adventure began in middle school. I attended the Tales American College, located in the outskirts of the Erciyes Mountain, at the age of 11. It was an interesting and utopian school. You know, it was almost like Harry Potter’s school. The teachers were just as weird, as well. Ne gibi bir e¤itimi vard› di¤er okullardan farkl› olarak? How did the education differ from other schools’? Sabah erkenden kalkard›k alt› gibi. Kilometrelerce yürür, 160 tafl basamakla flatoya benzeyen binam›za ç›kard›k. Derslerden sonra spora bafllard›k. Çekiç, gülle, cirit atard›k. Soba, kalorifer filan yanmazd›, yün fanila bile giymek yoktu. Kayak yapard›k k›fl›n. Çok s›cak suda y›kan›p bornozla karda yürüyerek giderdik yatakhaneye. Bu yüzden bir süre sobal› evde oturamad›m. Perküsyona da buradaki büyüklerim sayesinde merak sald›m. Sosyal yönü çok yüksek bir okuldu. We woke up early, around 6. We walked for many kilometers, and ascended 160 stone steps, which led to a chateau-like building. Classes were followed by sports like the javelin and shot-put. The furnace and heaters didn’t work; we didn’t even have wool undershirts to wear. In the winter, we skied. We showered in very hot water and then walked in the snow, in our bathrobes, back to the dorms. This is why I wasn’t able to live in a house with a heater for a long time. I also became interested in the percussion thanks to the adults at my school. The social aspect of the school was very high. Perküsyon merak› m› Latin’e yaklaflt›rd› sizi yoksa tam tersi mi oldu? Did your interest in the percussion lead you to Latin music or vice versa? Tabii ki perküsyon Latin’e yaklaflt›rd› beni. ‹talya’da, Roma’da profesyonel hayata geçtim. Oradaki tan›d›¤›m bütün perküsyoncular Panama’l›yd›, Kolombiyal›’yd›, Latin Amerikal›’yd› onlardan etkilendim. Of course the percussion led me to Latin music. In Italy, Rome to be specific, I started my professional music career. All the percussionists I knew there were from Panama, Colombia, Latin America, and thus I was highly influenced by them. We met up with Ayhan Sicimo¤lu, TV presenter, radio and TV program director, gourmet, expert percussionist and traveler and had a pleasant talk. Here, we share the lovely conversation with our readers… Facebook hesab›n›z var m›? Varsa eminim 1000’e yak›n arkadafl›n›z vard›r ve bunlar gerçekten tan›flt›¤›n›z insanlard›r. Dünyan›n en ücra köflesinde bile arkadafl›n›z var, nas›l oluyor bu? 34 Facebook’um baflta yoktu. Daha sonra açt›m ama k›z›m “Çok genç ifli baba o,” dedi ve kapad›m bir süre. Sonra haber geldi “Ayhan bey, hayranlar›n›z konserlerinizi oradan takip ediyor, lütfen aktive edin,” diye. Ben de tekrar aktif hale getirdim. Grubumda 5000 kifli vard› en son. Arkadafl listemde kaç kifli var bilmiyorum. Hepsiyle tan›fl›kl›¤›m var ama unutuyorum. Hatta bazen komik durumlar da yaflan›yor bu yüzden. Mesela geçenlerde biri durdurdu yolda bende tan›yorum diye “Ooo merhaba,” dedim. Adam bana yol sordu. Dünyan›n her yerinde arkadafl›m var evet. ‹nsanlar yeni girdikleri bir ortamda durufllar›yla kendilerini belli ederler. Bir de insan zeki insan› özlüyor, kendine birfleyler katabilen insanlarla görüflüyor. Hani göresim geldi derler ya. Bir insan size hiçbir fley katm›yorsa görüflmezsiniz onunla. Çok merakl› oldu¤unuzu söylüyorsunuz. Denemek istedi¤iniz ama cesaret edemedi¤iniz fleyler var m›? Var asl›nda. Skydiving var. fiöyle uçaktan paraflütle bir atlasam. Bungee jumping var bir de. Bunlar› yap›p yapmamak konusunda düflünüyorum. Art›k bu yaflta olur mu acaba? Yapt›¤›n›z en ç›lg›nca fley ne peki? Bir keresinde tek kiflilik ufak bir kano ile üç gün tek bafl›ma denize aç›ld›m. Gerçekten çok tehlikeliydi. Bir devrilse yard›m edecek kimse yok. Tekne gitse kalaca¤›m tek bafl›ma. Bunlar› art›k yapmamam laz›m san›r›m. Peki ya, asla denemem dedi¤iniz fleyler var m›? Eflek eti bile yedim. Ama maymun beyni yemem. Himalayalar’a hiç t›rmanamam mesela. Hem çok so¤uk, hem de yükseklik sevmiyorum. So¤u¤a al›flk›n›m ama sevmiyorum. Ben yaz adam›y›m. Bir de sigaraya tahammülüm yok. Hiç içmem. ‹çilen ortamlarda bile bulunmuyorum. S›rf bu yüzden gece hayat›m› bitirmifltim ki yasakla birlikte tekrar bafllayabilirim. Kaç ülke gezdi¤iniz? Yoksa saymay› b›rakt›n›z m› çoktan? Yok saymad›m hiç. Seyahat sizin için ne ifade ediyor? Seyahat benim için tecrübedir. Tecrübe de benim hayat görüflümdür. Nas›l bir gezginsiniz? Seyahate ç›kmadan önce neler yapars›n›z, bir ülkeyi ilk kez görüyorsan›z ilk nereleri gezersiniz, nelerin foto¤raf›n› çeker, neler tadars›n›z? Seyahate ç›kmadan önce gidece¤im yerin tarihini, insanlar›n› okurum. Neyse ki internet diye birfley var da hayat›m›zda, bu bilgilere rahat ulaflabiliyorum. Tekerle¤in ve ateflin bulunuflundan sonra yüzy›l›n en büyük icad› bence. Yemeklerini tadar›m gitti¤im yerin ama dedi¤im gibi maymun beyni hariç. Foto¤raflar da çekerim ama hayat foto¤raf› çekerim ben. ‹lla ki “memleketimden insan manzaralar›” çekece¤im diye birfley yok. En baba gece kulübünü de çektim sambac› k›zlar› da çektim. Do you have a Facebook account? I’m sure if you do you have close to 1000 friends, most of whom you don’t know. You have friends in the most remote corners of the world- how did this come about? Seyahat benim için tecrübedir. Tecrübe de benim hayat görüflümdür. Traveling for me is experience. And experience is paramount to my perspective on life. I didn’t have Facebook in the beginning. Later I opened an account, but my daughter said, ‘that’s for young people, dad’, and shut it down temporarily. Then someone said, ‘Mr. Ayhan, your fans follow your concert events from Facebook, please reactivate it’, and so I did. Last time I checked there were 5000 people in my group. I’m not sure how many people I have in my friends list. I’ve met all of them; however, I do forget some. In fact, this can create funny situations sometimes. The other day someone stopped me in the street, and I figured I must know them, so I said, ‘ooo, hiiiii’- turns out the guy wanted directions! I have friends all over the world. People give off a certain vibe, or body language, even in new environments, which is a show of character. People like smart people, someone who can add something to their lives. You know the types where people enjoy being around them. If a person doesn’t add anything to your life, you won’t go out of your way to see them. You’ve often said that you are very curious. Is there anything you would like to try but haven’t had the courage to try? There is. Skydiving. I would love to jump out of a plane with a parachute. Also, bungee jumping. I’m debating between doing these things. I wonder if I could do so at this age? What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever done? I once went out to sea, in a tiny, one-person canoe, for three days. It was really dangerous. If it had flipped over, there wouldn’t have been anyone around to help. And had I lost my canoe, I would have been stranded. I shouldn’t be doing things like that anymore, I think. Is there anything you absolutely would not try? I’ve eaten donkey meat. But I wouldn’t eat monkey brain. I would never climb the Himalayas, for example. It’s too cold and I don’t like heights much. I’m used to cold weather, but I don’t like it. I’m a summer man. Also I have no tolerance for cigarettes. I never smoke. I don’t even put myself in situations where there is smoking. I actually stopped going out for this reason only, but now with the smoking ban, I can begin going out again. How many countries have you been to? Or have you long-since stopped counting? I’ve never counted. What does traveling mean to you? Traveling for me is experience. And experience is paramount to my perspective on life. What kind of traveler are you? What do you do before departing? Where do you like to go if it’s your first time in a country? What do you take photos of and what do you like to try? I like to read up on the history and people of a country before departure. Luckily the Internet makes this sort of research easy; the information is readily accessible. I think it’s the biggest invention of the last century 35 Görmek isteyip de gidemedi¤iniz bir ülke var m›? Var tabi. K›z›l Çin’i görmek istiyorum. Bu zamana kadar neden gitmediniz? 36 F›rsat›m olmad›. Asl›nda f›rsatlar›m› kendim yarat›r›m. En k›sa zamanda f›rsat yaratmal›y›m san›r›m. Bir de baz› ülkeler beni ça¤›rm›yor. Mesela ‹ran’›n beni ça¤›rmas› gerekir ama ça¤›rm›yor. Belki Persia ça¤›r›yordur da ‹ran ça¤›rm›yordur. Eski haliyle olsa giderdim kesin. Diyelim ‹stanbul’a yabanc› bir arkadafl›n›z geliyor. Bu flehri gezmek için sadece bir günü var. Onu nerelere götürürsünüz, nereleri gezdirirsiniz? Bildi¤imiz ‹stanbul turunu yapmak laz›m. Sultanahmet, Ayasofya, Topkap›, Kapal›çarfl› vard›r ya. Bu tur bittikten sonra Osmanl› saray yemeklerini tatt›rmak için Kanaat Lokantas›’na götürebilirim. Yeni sezonda neler yapmay› planl›yorsunuz? Ramazan’dan istifade bir CD haz›rlanacak. Malum konserler duruyor Ramazan’da. Bir tane Alaçat› Il›ca Tuval on the Beach’de olacak. Ramazan’dan sonra her ay yapt›¤›m›z gibi Ghetto’da ve Babylon ‹stanbul’da konserlere devam edece¤iz. Ekim bafl›nda bir proje daha var. Yurt d›fl›ndan birinci lig müzisyenleri ça¤›rd›k. Bizde de çok iyi müzisyenler var ama dünya liginde oynamak baflka birfley. Celia Cruz diye bir projemiz var. Celia Cruz flark›lar›n› al›p yorumlayaca¤›z. Peru’dan Cesar Correa, Colombia’dan Rodrigo Rodriguez ve Cuba’dan Lenia Diaz gelecek. since the wheel and fire. I like to try the local cuisine, but like I said, I won’t try monkey brain. Of course I take photos, but I prefer life photography. I don’t believe in the whole ‘I must take photos of the local citizens’ mantra. My variety includes photographing anything from the best nightclub to samba dancing women. Is there anywhere you would like to go but haven’t yet had the chance? Of course. I would like to see Red China. Why haven’t you visited thus far? I haven’t had the chance. I create my own opportunities, to be completely honest. I think I have to create an opportunity as soon as possible. Some countries don’t interest me. For example, Iran doesn’t interest me whatsoever. Maybe Persia, but not Iran. If the old Iran existed I would go for sure. Let’s say you have a tourist friend in town. And he only has one day to see Istanbul. Where would you take him? He must do the Istanbul tour that we’re all familiar with. Sultanahmet, Hagia Sofia, Topkap› Palace, the Grand Bazaar. And I’d end the tour with a stop at Kanaat Restaurant, so my friend could try Ottoman delicacies. What do you have planned for the upcoming season? We’re taking advantage of Ramadan to prepare a CD. Of course concerts are put on hold during Ramadan. There will be one at Alaçat› Il›ca Tuval on the Beach. After Ramadan, we will resume with our monthly Ghetto and Babylon Istanbul concerts, as always. There is another project slated for the beginning of October. We’ve invited the best musicians from around the world. We have some great musicians as well but it’s a whole other thing to compete with the world’s greatest musicians. We have another project called Celia Cruz. We’ll take Celia Cruz’s songs and do our own interpretations of them. Also, Peru’s Cesar Correa, Colombia’s Rodrigo Rodriguez and Cuba’s Lenia Diaz will be coming to Istanbul. DQ 38 YEMEK-FOOD Karadeniz Sofras› Yemyeflil do¤as›, lacivert denizi ile büyüleyen Karadeniz’in mutfa¤› hamsi, karalahana ve m›s›r dolu. Pidesinin ve kuyma¤›n›n tad›ysa baflka topraklarda istense de bulunmuyor. Y A Z I - B Y E L ‹ F E R E N C o¤rafya ve iklim flartlar› nas›l dünya mutfaklar›n› flekillendiriyorsa Karadeniz de k›y›ya paralel uzanan da¤lar›ndan nasibini alm›fl. K›y› fleridi ile da¤lar›n arkas›nda kalan bölge aras›nda mutfak kültürü de¤ifliklik gösteriyor. Hayat› zorlaflt›ran iklim ve engebe yüzünden ço¤u yerde tar›ma elveriflli olmayan topraklara ra¤men sofras› oturulas›d›r . Küreselleflen damak zevklerimize ra¤men Karadeniz’de mutfak gelenekselli¤ini hiç yitirmemesi onu bir kez daha özel k›l›yor. H›rç›n denizi bal›klar›n› hiçbir mevsim esirgemez. Üstelik Karadeniz birçok nehrin döküldü¤ü bir deniz oldu¤undan bal›klar›n besin maddesi planktonlardan yana suyu zengin. Bu da besin de¤eri yüksek ve lezzetli bal›klar demek. Bal›¤›n envai çeflidi var bu sularda. Ama hamsinin krall›¤› asla inkar edilemez. Hamsiyle yaflad›klar› bambaflka bir aflkt›r Karadenizlilerin. Daha da ötesi, hamsi neredeyse bir yaflam biçimidir. Hamsili pilav, bu¤ulama, hamsi kuflu, hamsi çorbas› hamsili tariflerden en bilinenleri. Ama ellerinden gelse her yeme¤e, her ö¤üne dahil ederler hamsiyi... Birkaç y›l önce hamsi tutkunu bir aflç›n›n hamsili baklava yapma giriflimleri bunun ispat›. Karadeniz mutfa¤›n›n bafltaçlar›ndan biri de karalahana. Lahana ailesinin 450 ferdinden biri olan karalahanan›n çorbas›, diblesi, sarmas› ve kavurmas› yap›l›yor. Fasulye ve fleker kam›fl› turflular›yla yap›lan kavurmalar gibi sebze turflular›ndan yap›lan yemekler de Karadeniz 39 A seat at the Black Sea table With all of its natural beauty in surroundings and landscape it’s no wonder that Black Sea region cuisine has made it to the top of the list of world cuisines. With plenty of anchovies, cabbage and corn, along with pide and mincemeat, cuisine from this region cannot be found elsewhere and is unlike any other. T he food from a particular region tends to depend on that region’s geographical location; the Black Sea gets its inspiration for food from the mountainous landscape and bays surrounding it. The unevenness of the region makes for uncultivable land, also making it a difficult place for human life to thrive. However, the location of the region allows for there to be many different food options for those who live there due to the weather conditions. For those who have never tried cuisine from the Black Sea region, the first time is always a pleasant and memorable experience. Below the waters of the Black Sea, the fish do not make any exceptions for the seasonal harsh conditions. Nearby rivers flow into the salty waters, which in turn make the fish flavorful due to a variety in their diet, making for tasty fish that please the palate. The fresh waters bring with them plankton, other smaller fish species, and minerals which the fish consume. These mixed waters are home to a variety of fish species, including their own ‘chicken of the sea’, the anchovy. This fish takes the number one spot for the Black Sea peoples; it has become somewhat of a lifestyle that people utilize frequently. Dishes including anchovies are more than plentiful, and if given the chance are served at nearly every meal. Anchovies with rice, steamed anchovies, stuffed or fried anchovies, and anchovy soup are just some of the well-known dishes. A few years back, a chef who 40 mutfa¤›n›n olmazsa olmaz›. Ama hepsinden önce sofran›n bafl köflesine m›s›r kuruluyor. 17. yüzy›lda Güney Amerika’dan Karadeniz’e gelen m›s›r o gün bugündür Karadeniz’in göz bebe¤i. Türkiye’nin m›s›r üretiminin ço¤unlu¤u Karadeniz’de yap›lsa da bu üretim bölgenin kendi ihtiyac›n› karfl›lamaya ancak yetiyor. Sebze-meyve tar›m›na elveriflli olmayan yerlerde dahi m›s›r ekiminin yap›labilmesi ayr› bir avantaj. Yöre halk› bahçelerinde m›s›r yetifltiriyor. M›s›r›n kullan›m flekilleri de çok çeflitli; kurutulur, hafllan›r, ö¤ütülüp unundan faydalan›l›r... M›s›r ekme¤i Karadeniz’de en çok tüketilen ekmek çeflidi. Türkiye’nin her bölgesinde oldu¤u gibi Karadeniz’de de peynir ve tereya¤› üretilir. Özel bir peynir kullan›larak haz›rlanan, muhlama veya kuymak olarak adland›r›lan, kalorisine ra¤men diyette olanlar›n bile geri çeviremeyece¤i bir lezzet. Dört mevsim ya¤›fl ald›¤›ndan Karadeniz’in yeflili de bol. Karadenizlilerin bahçesinde hatta yol kenarlar›nda bol miktarda lezzetli otlar bulunur. Balkaba¤› da ana yemek olarak en çok Karadeniz mutfa¤›nda de¤erlendiriliyor. Karadeniz’den tüm yurda yay›lan di¤er lezzetleri de es geçmemek laz›m. F›nd›¤›, çay› ve dillere destan Anzer bal› sadece Karadeniz’de de¤il tüm dünyada tan›n›yor. Karadeniz’in üstünlü¤ünün tart›fl›lmaz oldu¤u lezzetlerden biri pide. Trabzon’un, Samsun’un, Bafra’n›n, Terme’nin, Giresun’un, Görele’nin kendi adlar›yla an›lan dillere destan pideleri var. Pidenin aç›k ya da kapal›, uzun ya da k›sa olufluna göre isimler de¤iflse de lezzeti her daim parmak yediren cinsten. Hele yörenin tereya¤›, peyniri ve kavurmas›yla yap›l›rsa pidenin tad›na doyum olmuyor. Çal›çiçe¤i, merevcen, hofluran, mendek, kuzukula¤›, ›s›rgan, mad›mak, bald›ran, taflan, sakarca bölgede yeme¤i yap›lan otlardan baz›lar›. Birçoklar›na yabani ot, diken gibi görülen bu yeflillikler genellikle kavrularak ya da çorbas› yap›larak al›fl›lmad›k lezzetleriyle sofralar› süsler. was known for his love of anchovies, attempted to create anchovy baklava, illustrating the love for the fish in the region. The Black Sea kitchen also takes great pride in the abundance of cabbage (Karalahana) in their dishes. With over 450 different kinds of cabbage to choose from, there are just as many dishes to go along. Cabbage soup, chopped cabbage salad, stuffed cabbage leaves, and fried cabbage, are just a few that are popular in the area. Black Sea cuisine also includes many pickled vegetables with their dishes; for example, pickled with sugar cane, string beans are served with fried cabbage. One thing that is never absent from a meal is corn. Corn is served with most dishes, or just eaten on its own. Corn came to the Black Sea region during the 17th century from South America, and from thereon out, became a sensation in the kitchen. Harvesting corn in the Black Sea region is not common, since it Özel bir peynir kullan›larak haz›rlanan, muhlama veya kuymak olarak adland›r›lan, kalorisine ra¤men diyette olanlar›n bile geri çeviremeyece¤i bir lezzet. Kuymak (a dish made with vegetables and eggs), for example, is made with a special cheese from the region which gives it its savory taste, and even for those who try their best to stray away from high-fat dishes can’t resist this one. 41 would have to be harvested in mass quantities. This is because the corn available is sufficient for the people living there, to harvest it would require much more effort than the region is willing to give at the moment. Corn is harvested in back-gardens and used many different ways in cooking. Dried, steamed, or in powder form, corn is made the most of here. Corn bread is another specialty of the Black Sea region, not to mention the most popular type of bread eaten there. Just as every region in Turkey has its own butter & cheese production, so does the Black Sea. Kuymak (a dish made with vegetables and eggs), for example, is made with a special cheese from the region which gives it its savory taste, and even for those who try their best to stray away from high-fat dishes can’t resist this one. Due to rainfall during each season of the year, the Black Sea region is famous for its greenery. This provides a lush home for vegetables, fruits, and other herbs to grow comfortably. It isn’t uncommon to find in the backyard of someone’s house different herbs and other edible plants growing. It’s also not uncommon to see this sort of gardening happening along highways and streets. Pumpkin is another delicacy for the people of the Black Sea region. It is served as a main course or dessert for obvious reasons. The vegetable is sweet, filling and highly nutritious. Other delicacies from the region include: Hazelnuts, varieties of tea, and Anzer honey (which is an acquired taste, unique to the area and known worldwide). Another popular delicacy from the Black Sea region is pide. Pide resembles pita bread, and nearly every city in the region has its own kind. Trabzon, Samsun, Bafra, Terme, Giresun, and Göreli each make their own kind of pide which each go by a different name. Pide can be served in many different ways: open, closed, long, short. All the different kinds of ways to make and serve pide, with butter, cheese and meat (if desired), is how they each came to acquire their different names. Hamsili Pilav Anchovy Rice Malzemeler ■ 1 kg hamsi ■ 400 gr pirinç ■ 2 so¤an ■ 1 çorba kafl›¤› kufl üzümü ■ 1 çorba kafl›¤› dolmal›k f›st›k ■ 1 çay barda¤› s›v›ya¤ ■ 2 çorba kafl›¤› tereya¤› ■ 1 su barda¤› su ■ Yar›m demet maydanoz ■ Tuz, karabiber, pulbiber Yap›l›fl› Hamsileri ay›klay›p y›kay›n. Pirinci y›kay›p süzün. So¤an ve maydanozu ince ince do¤ray›p pirince ekleyin. Kufl üzümü, f›st›k, tuz ve baharatlar› ilave edip iyice kar›flt›r›n. Tepsiyi ya¤lay›p taban›n› ve kenarlar›n› kaplayacak flekilde bir s›ra hamsi dizin. Pirinçli kar›fl›m› üzerine yay›p kalan hamsilerle kaplay›n. Üzerine s›v›ya¤ ve eritilmifl tereya¤›n› gezdirin. Suyu ilave edip tepsinin üzerini kapat›n. K›s›k ateflte piflirin, s›cak servis yap›n. Ingredients ■ 1 kg anchovies ■ 400 gr rice ■ 2 onions ■ 1 tablespoon currents ■ 1 tablespoon pine nuts ■ 1 tea glass vegetable oil ■ 2 tablespoons butter ■ 1 cup water ■ 1.2 bundle parsley ■ Salt, pepper, paprika Directions Separate and wash the anchovies. Prepare the rice. Dice the parsley and onions and mix with the rice. Add in the currents, nuts, salt and spices. Coat the pot with butter and place the anchovies along the sides. Put in the rice and place the remaining anchovies on the top, covering the surface. Drizzle vegetable oil and melted butter over the top for extra flavor. Add water and close the lid of the pot. Heat on a low flame. Serve hot. 42 DEDEMAN R‹ZE EXECUTIVE fiEF/CHEF ALAATT‹N ÖZYURT M›s›r Ekme¤i Cornbread Malzemeler ■ 500 gr m›s›r unu ■ 1 tatl› kafl›¤› tuz ■ Su (kek k›vam›n› alana kadar) ■ 2 çorba kafl›¤› s›v›ya¤ Yap›l›fl› Unu ve tuzu ›l›k suyla kar›flt›rarak orta sertlikte bir hamur elde edin. Tavaya biraz s›v›ya¤ koyun. Hamuru tavaya eflit oranda yay›n. Ters yüz ederek pembeleflinceye kadar piflirin. Ingredients ■ 500 gr corn flour ■ 1 dessertspoon salt ■ Water (use until cake batter consistency) ■ 2 spoons vegetable oil Directions Make dough by mixing the corn flour, salt and water (at room temp). Spread the dough evenly on the surface of the pan. Reverse the bread to see if it has turned a pinkish color. If so, then the bread is ready to be removed from the oven. Laz Böre¤i Laz Pastry Malzemeler ■ 200 gr. süt ■ 1/2 adet yumurta ■ 20 gr.niflasta ■ 100 gr.un ■ 1/4 adet limon ■ 50 gr.toz fleker ■ 15 gr.tereya¤› Yap›l›fl› Derin bir kab›n içersinde süt kaynamaya b›rak›l›r, niflasta suland›r›l›p ilave edilir. fieker konulup yumurta ilave edildikten sonra çorba k›vam›na getirildi¤inde ocaktan indirilir. Hamurun yap›l›fl› Baklava hamuru aç›l›r. Tepsinin alt›na bir k›sm› dizilir. ‹çersine iç harc› ilave edildikten sonra üzerine hamurun kalan k›sm› örtülür ve erimifl tereya¤› ile üzeri ya¤land›ktan sonra k›zarmas› için f›r›na verilir. F›r›ndan ç›kart›ld›ktan sonra önceden haz›rlanm›fl flurup konulur ve so¤umaya b›rak›l›r. So¤uk servis yap›l›r. Ingredients ■ 200 gr. milk ■ 1/2 an egg ■ 20 gr. corn starch ■ 100 gr. flour ■ 1/4 lemon ■ 50 gr. powdered sugar ■ 15 gr. butter Directions Boil the milk in a large pot. When it comes to a boil, add in the corn starch gradually. Once you add the powdered sugar in, it should form a soup-like texture, remove the pot from the stove when this happens. Using the dough Start with baklava dough sheets, place them on the bottom of the pan. Add all the ingredients in the center and fold over the dough from all four corners, meeting in the middle. Pour the melted butter all over and place the pan in the oven. After taking the pan out of the oven, prepare the syrup and pour it over, leave to cool. Served cold. Kara Lahana Sarmas› Black Cabbage Wraps Malzemeler ■ 30 gr. dana k›yma ■ Kara lahana yapra¤› ■ 10 gr. kuru so¤an ■ 10 gr. pirinç ■ 10 gr. domates ■ 5 gr. tuz ■ 3 gr. pul biber ■ 2 gr. iç ya¤› ■ 3 gr. sar›msak ■ 3 gr. tereya¤› ■ 5 gr. salça ■ 1/10 ba¤ maydanoz Yap›l›fl› Dana k›yman›n içersine pirinç, kuru so¤an, domates, tuz, iç ya¤›, maydanoz, sar›msak, pul biber kar›flt›r›l›r. Kaynar suda hafllanm›fl lahana yapraklar›n›n damarl› k›s›mlar› kesilir, yapraklar ters çevrilerek sarma ifllemi yap›l›r. Derin kab›n içersine dizilir. Üzerine ya¤da sote edilmifl salça, su ve baharat ilave edildikten sonra iç kapak d›fl kapak koyarak piflmeye b›rak›l›r. Yaklafl›k 30 dakika k›s›k ateflte piflen sarmalar yan›nda yo¤urtla s›cak servis edilir. Ingredients ■ 30 gr. ground beef ■ 10 gr. dry onions ■ 10 gr. rice ■ 10 gr. tomatoes ■ 5 gr. salt ■ 3 gr. paprika ■ 2 gr. tallow ■ 3 gr. garlic ■ 3 gr. butter ■ 5 gr. tomato paste ■ 1/10 bundle of parsley ■ Black cabbage leaves Directions Mix up the ground beef with the rice, dried onions, tomatoes, salt, tallow, parsley, garlic and paprika. Place it in the cabbage leaves (which should be laid down with the inside facing you) and roll it all up. Place the rolled cabbage leaves upright in a large pot. Drizzle the tomato paste, which has been sautéed in a pan, on top of the cabbage leaves, while also adding in water and spices. Place the lid on the pot and leave to cook. Cook on a low light for 30 minutes. Serve hot with cold yogurt on the side. Nerede Kal›n›r? Dedemen Rize (0464) 223 44 44 Ali Pafla Koyu, Rize Dedeman Rize’nin 82 odas› Karadeniz’den, ormanlardan ve da¤lardan harika manzaralar sunuyor. Barlar›, restoranlar› ve toplant› imkanlar› ile ideal bir ifl oteli. Otelin sükuneti ve özel plaj› keyifli bir tatil isteyen misafirler için de ideal bir alternatif sunuyor. Staying there Dedemen Rize (+90 464) 223 44 44 Ali Pafla Koyu, Rize Dedeman Rize has 82 hotel rooms, offer stunning views out over the Black Sea, forests and mountains. With its bars, restaurants and meeting facilities the hotel is ideally located for business. The tranguility of the hotel and its private beach represents a unique choice for leisure guests as well. DQ 44 KÜLTÜR&SANAT-CULTURE & ART Ayasofya Hagia Sophia ‹stanbul’da Çok az kent tarihi, sanat›, esteti¤i, e¤lenceyi bir arada sunar. Tüm zenginlikleriyle dünyan›n gözünü kamaflt›ran ‹stanbul’un günü geldi. Very few cities offer history, aesthetics, art and fun. Encompassing all of these traits, it has come time for Istanbul to shine. YAZI-BY EL‹F EREN Robinson Crusoe O rhan Pamuk ‘‹stanbul, Hat›ralar ve fiehir’ kitab›nda bu flehrin gri, siyah-beyaz hüznünü bir imparatorlu¤un yenilgisine ba¤lar. Osmanl›’n›n ‹stanbul’un sadece silüetinde de¤il ruhunda da derin izler b›rakt›¤› aflikar. ‹mparatorlu¤un rengini oluflturan halklar›n geçidi eskisi kadar ahenkli de¤il. Maziden kalma en büyük kalp a¤r›s› bu olmal› belki de. Ama bugün Osmanl› izlerinin ço¤u yenilginin ezikli¤inden s›yr›lm›fl, flaflaal› bir miras›n sefas› sürülüyor. fiehrin geçmifline eklenmifl ça¤dafl yüzü, sanatta ve yaflam stilinde yaflanan yarat›c› bir devrimle flehri an be an dönüfltürüyor. Bir yabanc›n›n ‹stanbul gezisinin Beyo¤lu’nda bafllamas› ad› konmam›fl bir gelenek. Çünkü Beyo¤lu eskiyle yeninin karmafl›k ama zengin birlikteli¤inin aynas›. Bizans döneminde ba¤ ve bahçe olarak kullan›lan Beyo¤lu, 18. yüzy›lda Avrupa etkisinde geliflmeye bafllad›. O günden kalan pek çok yap›da bu etki hissediliyor. Hayat›n hiç durmadan akt›¤› caddede Çiçek Pasaj›, Nevizade ve Büyükparmakkap› Soka¤›’nda yo¤unlaflan mekânlar farkl› türden e¤lence anlay›fllar›na hitap ediyor. Cadde, e¤lencenin ve al›flveriflin oldu¤u kadar sanat›n da atardamar›. Murat Pilevneli’nin Galerist’i (‹stiklâl Caddesi M›s›r Apartman› 311/4, Beyo¤lu) ve Garanti Bankas›’n›n güncel sanata hediyesi Platform (‹stiklâl Caddesi 115-a, Beyo¤lu) asla demode olmayan galeriler. Robinson Crusoe (‹stiklal Caddesi, 389) zengin bir sanat kitaplar›, alternatif dergiler ve roman koleksiyonuna sahip. ‹stedi¤inizi bulamazsan›z ›smarlayabilirsiniz de. Çiçek Pasaj› ‹stiklal Caddesi istiklal Street 45 O rhan Pamuk’s book “Istanbul: Memories and the City”, explains the city’s gray, black and white melancholy after the defeat of the Empire. The Ottoman era has left remnants of itself; not only in Istanbul’s skies but in the very depths of its soul. The merging of the peoples, which once made up the Empire’s colorful face, is not as harmonious anymore. This must be Istanbul’s biggest heartache. However, today most of the remains from the Ottoman Empire cancel out the shame of the defeat, and are enjoying the glamour of a wealthy inheritance. The modern face of the city, transforms it minute by minute with creative innovations in its arts and different life styles. It is an unwritten rule for a foreigner to start his journey of Istanbul in Beyo¤lu, for Beyo¤lu reflects perfectly the city’s rich and complex merge of old and new. The district, formerly a garden and a vineyard area, began to develop under European influence in the 18th century, and this influence is felt even today in most of the buildings remaining from that era. Life thrives incessantly on the main street, and the side streets such as Nevizade, Çiçek Pasaj› and Büyükparmakkap›, with numerous locations, offer a different experience of entertainment to those who seek it. Beyo¤lu, aside from being a favorite location in Istanbul Yakup 46 La cave Antre Gourmet Kapal›çarfl› Kapal›çarfl› Fatih taraf›ndan kurulmufl, Kanuni döneminde büyütülmüfl, 1701 y›l›nda bugünkü plan›yla infla edilmifl. Kurflun rengi yüzlerce kubbesi, 30.700 metrekarelik bir alana yay›lan 61 soka¤› ve 4000’e yak›n dükkan› ile otantik bir Do¤u çarfl›s›. Sokaklar›n her biri ayr› bir dünya ve burada al›flverifl yapmak art›k biraz turistik kaçsa da hala eski zamanlardan kalma bir rüya gibi. Semerkand Suzani (0212) 526 22 69 Ya¤l›kç›lar Caddesi, Astarc› Han 25 Birbirinden güzel kaftanlardan, Özbek dokumalar› Suzani’lerden, feslerden, kutulardan, Türkmen ifli saç süslerinden edinmek için do¤ru adres. Antique Objet (0212) 526 74 51 Zenneciler Caddesi 48-50 www.antiqueobjet.com Eski ve otantik tekstil ürünleri, yast›klar, çantalar, kemerler, ayakkab›lar, terlikler, otantik mücevherler burada. K›y›c› Bag (0212) 526 51 81 Kürkçüler Caddesi 9 Prada, Gucci, YLS taklidi çantalara ra¤bet çok fazla, ama taklitler d›fl›nda da güzel çantalar var. Abdulla Natural Products ‹stanbul (0212) 522 90 78 Hal›c›lar Caddesi 53 www.abdulla.com Do¤u, Güneydo¤u Anadolu’dan toplanan yerel dokumalar, el dokumas› kumafllar, havlular, pefltemaller, keseler, hamam setleri ve daha neler.... A¤a Camii ile St. Antoine Katolik Kilisesi’nin bafl› çekti¤i dini yap›lar hem ibadete hem ziyarete aç›k. Beyo¤lu’nun uydular› Cihangir ve Tünel de eski ekol mimarilerinden kaynaklanan hofllu¤u, fl›k kafelerle ve sanat galerileriyle perçinliyor. Bu semtlerin sakinleri de ça¤dafl sanat ortam›n›n içinde birebir yer alan insanlar, sanatç› olmasalar da sanat müdavimleri. Cihangir bohem hayat›n gözbebe¤i hala. Bir yandan da kafeleriyle ve dükkanlar›yla damak tad›n› göklere ç›kar›yor. Antre Gourmet (Bakraç Sokak 14/C) çok çeflitli yöresel ve ithal peynirleriyle tam bir peynir cenneti. 400 civar› yerli ve 1000 civar› yabanc› flarab›n sat›ld›¤› La Cave (S›raselviler Caddesi 207) Türkiye’nin en genifl flarap kav›na sahip. ‹stiklal Caddesi’nin sonunda, halen yolcu tafl›maya devam eden dünyan›n en eski üçüncü tünelinden ad›n› alan Tünel’in en canl› mahallesi Asmal›mescit, 20. yüzy›lda Bolflevik devriminden kaç›p ‹stanbul’a gelen Ruslar›n açt›¤› lokanta ve e¤lence yerleriyle tan›n›rm›fl. Yak›n tarihten bir dönemini kargaflaya kurban verse de bugün yine ‹stanbul’un en canl› semtlerinden. Yakup (Asmal›mescit Sokak 35/37) müdavimleri ve mezeleriyle hiç tart›flmas›z ‹stanbul’un en iyi meyhanelerinden. 55 y›ll›k mazisinde her daim sanatç›lar›n buluflma yeri olan Refik’te (Sofyal› Sokak 7/10/12) rak› bir kültür. 2005’te aç›lmas›na ra¤men efsane olmay› garantileyen Otto Tünel’i (fiehbender Sokak 5/1) 2008’de Otto’lar›n dördüncüsü Otto Sofyal› (Sofyal› Sokak 22/A) izledi. Her iki mekanda da haftasonlar› yer PANDORA’S BOX The Grand Bazaar The Grand Bazaar was first built during the reign of Mehmet the Conqueror; it has been expanded since the time of Süleyman the Magnificent, and acquired its final structure in 1701. It is an authentic Eastern bazaar with hundreds of domes the color of lead, 61 streets spreading over a vast area of 30.700 square meters, and nearly 4000 shops. Each of the streets are a different world by themselves and even though shopping there is a little touristy thing to do, it is nevertheless like a dream from the past. Semerkand Suzani (+90 212) 526 22 69 Ya¤l›kç›lar Cad. Astarc› Han 25 The right place to buy gorgeous kaftans, Uzbek-knit Suzanis, fezs, boxes and Turkmen style hair decorations. Antique Objet (+90 212) 526 74 51 Zenneciler Caddesi 48-50 www.antiqueobjet.com For old, authentic textiles, pillows, bags, belts, shoes, slippers, and jewellery. K›y›c› Bag (+90 212) 526 51 81 Kürkçüler Caddesi 9 Favorites here are Prada, Gucci and YSL knock-offs, and also other very appealing bags. Abdulla Natural Products ‹stanbul (+90 212) 522 90 78 Hal›c›lar Caddesi 53 www.abdulla.com Local knits from Eastern and Southeastern Anatolia, hand woven cloths, towels, waistcloths, bath gloves and many, many more… for shopping and entertainment, is also where artistic life resonates. Murat Pilevneli’s Galerist (‹stiklâl Caddesi M›s›r Apartman› 311/4, Beyo¤lu), and Garanti Bank’s contribution to modern art, Platform (‹stiklâl Caddesi 115-a, Beyo¤lu), are art galleries which never grow old. Robinson Crusoe (‹stiklal Caddesi, 389), has a rich collection of books on art, novels and alternative magazines. If on a rare occasion you don’t find what you are looking for, you can place an order for it. Religious buildings, above all A¤a Mosque and St. Antoine Catholic Church, are open both for prayers and visits. Cihangir and Tünel, Beyo¤lu’s antennae, excel in elegance, stemming from classic architecture with beautiful cafes and art galleries. The residents of these neighborhoods are very much a part of the modern art scene. Cihangir boasts a bohemian life style, and is also a delight to the taste buds with its wide selection of cuisine. Antre Gourmet (Bakraç Sokak 14/C) is a cheese haven with various local and foreign products. La Cave (S›raselviler Caddesi 207) supports Turkey’s largest wine collection (Kavaklidere) along with 400 regional and 1000 foreign wines. At the other end of Istiklal Street, Tünel’s liveliest neighborhood, Asmal›mescit, used to be famous with restaurants and entertainment venues for Russians who escaped during the Bolshevik Revolution. Tünel’s name comes from the third oldest underground train tunnel in the world; it is still in function to this day. Even though it had unfortunately lost some of its glamour due to tumults and commotions, it is still one of Istanbul’s hippest districts. Yakup (Asmal›mescit Sokak 35/37), with its mezes and regulars, is without a doubt one of Istanbul’s best taverns. Refik (Sofyal› Sokak 7/10/12), has been a meeting point for various artists Otto Sofyal› Refik 47 Cemil ‹pekçi Atölyesi 48 bulmak lükse giriyor. Moda takipçisi ma¤azalar›n ve fl›k kafelerin oldu¤u Niflantafl› da Beyo¤lu’nun sosyetik uzant›s› gibi. Gucci, Armani gibi dünya markalar›n›n yan› s›ra Türk modac›lar›n da ço¤u Niflantafl›’n› mesken ediniyor. Cemil ‹pekçi’nin atölyesinde (Orhan Ersek Sokak 46/1) k›yafetler gösteriflleriyle Osmanl›’ya göz k›rp›yor. Arzu Kaprol (Atiye Sokak 53/2) ‹stanbul’un en gözde tasar›mc›lar›ndan. Ününün tüm ülkeye yay›lmas›n› sade ama fl›k tarz›na borçlu. Beyo¤lu çevresini ve Niflantafl›’n› turlamak ‹stanbullular için günlük yaflam›n ayr›lmaz bir parças›. Bir nevi al›flkanl›¤a dönüflen bu zinciri k›rmak ve belki de ço¤u flehir sakininin ad›m atmad›¤› yollarda yürümek için pusulay› tarihi yar›madaya çevirmek gerekiyor. Yüzlerce y›ll›k misafirperverlik gelene¤ini yaflatan Balat, Haliç’in güneyinde Ayvansaray ve Fener aras›nda küçük bir semt. Arnavut kald›r›ml› dar sokaklara s›ralanan cumbal› evleri, kilise ve sinagoglar›, Rum liseleri ve hamamlar›yla siyah-beyaz bir foto¤raf karesi gibi. Ço¤u bak›ms›zl›ktan y›k›lmak üzere gibi duran tafl binalar› iç ac›t›yor. Eminönü Meydan› tüm zamanlar›n Süleymaniye Camii all throughout its 55 yr-long history; raki is a culture by itself. After Otto Tünel (fiehbender Sokak 5/1), already a legend even though it opened in 2005, Otto Sofyal› (Sofyal› Sokak 22/A) opened up in 2008. It is an unrivaled luxury to be able to find a place at either of the locations on the weekends. N›santafl›, where fashionable shops and glamorous cafes line the streets, is an extension of Beyo¤lu. Aside from high-end labels, such as Gucci and Armani, many Turkish brands have inhabited the N›santafl› shops. In Cemil ‹pekçi’s atelier ((Orhan Ersek Sokak 46/1), the clothes boast an Ottoman air with their glamour. Arzu Kaprol (Atiye Sokak 53/2) is one of Istanbul’s favorite designers and owes her fame to her simple but elegant designed apparel. It is very common for those living in Istanbul to stroll through Beyo¤lu and N›santafl› quite frequently. In order to break the habit and to take a trip down to places where the locals don’t frequently go, one must turn the compass towards the direction of the historical peninsula, Balat. Balat, which has preserved its hospitable atmosphere throughout the centuries, is a little district between Ayvansaray and Fener. With its narrow streets and Rumelian styled houses with bay windows, churches, synagogues, and hamams, it is like taking a step into the past. However, it is painful to look at the old stone houses, which are dilapidated or in ruins. Eminönü Square is a timeless classic. In the garden of the Süleymaniye mosque, (which is said to Niflantafl› 49 50 51 Topkap› Saray› Ayasofya klasiklerinden. Mimar Sinan’›n kalfal›k dönemi eseri olarak an›lsa da dört minaresi ve on flerefesi ile oldukça görkemli Süleymaniye Camii’nin bahçesinde Kanuni Sultan Süleyman’›n ve Hürrem Sultan’›n türbeleri var. Vaktiyle Kahire’den gelen mallar›n sat›ld›¤› M›s›r Çarfl›s› baharatlar›, lokumlar›, flifal› bitkileriyle renk ve koku cümbüflü. Alt› minaresiyle ünlü Sultanahmet Camii’nin mimar› Sedefkar Mehmet A¤a. Yirmi binin üzerinde ‹znik çinisi ile süslü caminin 260 penceresinden içeri günefl vurdu¤unda içeriyi mavi ve turkuaz tonlarda bir ›fl›k kapl›yor. Bu yüzden yabanc›lar buraya Mavi Cami diyorlar. Fatih Sultan Mehmet’in ‹stanbul’u fethettikten sonra yapt›rd›¤› Topkap› Saray›, müze olarak gezilebiliyor. Saray alabildi¤ine genifl oldu¤undan ve içinde sergilenen eserlerin çoklu¤undan buraya oldukça uzun zaman ay›rmak gerekiyor. Bizans imparatoru ‹ustinianos’un yapt›rd›¤› Yerebatan Sarn›c›, sütunlar› ve etkileyici mimarisiyle çarp›c› bir mekan. Özellikle iki sütuna kaide olarak kullan›lm›fl Gorgon bafl› kabartmalar› oldukça ilginç. ‹ustinianos’un eski Roma ‹mparatorlu¤u’nu bir araya getirme düflüncesiyle görkemli bir kilise yapt›rma ideali sonucu do¤an have been built during the times when Architect Sinan was only a assistant architect) is quite magnificent with its four minarets and ten minaret balconies, the mausoleums of Suleiman the Magnificent and of his wife, Hurrem are also found here. The Egyptian Bazaar, where goods coming from Cairo had been sold, is to this day a mixture of colors and smells sweeping one off one’s feet, with different lokums (Turkish delight), spices and healing herbs. The architect of the famous Sultanahmet Mosque, which was decorated with 20,000 tiles from Iznik, is Sedefkar Mehmet A¤a. When sunlight pours in through the mosque’s 260 windows, a turquoise-green light fills up the entire space, which is why foreigners call the mosque the Blue Mosque. The Topkap› Palace, built by Mehmed the Conqueror after his victory, is now an open museum. Because the place is colossal and the valuables displayed inside numerous, one needs to spend a long seeing Topkap›. The Basilica Cisterns, built by the Byzantine Emperor Iustinianos, is an intriguing place with its columns and impressive architecture. Especially the two Heads of Medussa, used as a base for two columns, are quite interesting. It is also impossible to not be impressed by the wondrous architecture of the Hagia Sophia Church, built also by Iustinianos with Kanl›ca 52 Ortaköy Bo¤aziçi Ayasofya’n›n görkemli mimarisinden etkilenmemek mümkün de¤il. Yap›n›n en can al›c› yan› olan devasa kubbesini 16 y›ld›r örten iskele geçti¤imiz aylarda nihayet kald›r›ld›. Böylece 160 y›ld›r karanl›kta kalan, en son Sultan Abdülmecit ve o dönem yap›n›n restorasyonunu yürüten mimar Fossati'nin gördü¤ü, üzerleri s›va ve metal maskeyle kapat›lan alt› kanatl› melek figüründen birinin yüzü aç›ld›. Tarihi yar›mada bundan ibaret de¤il elbet, Osmanl›’dan ve Bizans’tan kalma daha nice eser görülebilir. Denizin usulca karan›n içine k›vr›ld›¤› Haliç, Avrupa’y› ikiye bölüyor. Eminönü’nün tam karfl›s›nda uzanan Galata, Bizans dönemindeki Ceneviz kolonisi döneminde edinmifl kimli¤ini. Kulesiyle ak›llara gelen Galata, ‹stanbul’un her anlamda y›ld›z› parlayan semtlerinden. Kiliseleri, camileri ve Osmanl›’n›n finans merkezi oldu¤u dönemden kalma fl›k binalar›yla övgüyü hak eden Galata yeni kafeler, restoranlar ve sanat galerileriyle canlan›yor. 1348 y›l›nda yap›lan ve Hazerfan Ahmet Çelebi'nin kendi yapt›¤› kanatlarla Üsküdar’a uçuflunun bafl kahramanlar›ndan biri olan Galata Kulesi’nde ‹stanbul’un flahane manzaras›n› izlemek büyük keyif. ‹stanbul’da manzaralar›n bu kadar etkileyici olmas›n›n sebebi flehrin içinden geçen deniz, Bo¤az. Hangi yakada yer al›rsa als›n, Bo¤az’a k›y›s› olan her semt kendine özgü bir zarafet tafl›r. Bebek, Kandilli, Ortaköy, Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar, Arnavutköy, Çengelköy, Kanl›ca… Her biri ayr› bir dünya. Bo¤az’a naz›r bir sahilde bir bardak çay içmek ya da tekneyle Bo¤az sefas› yapmak asla b›kk›nl›k vermez insana. the ambition of re-creating the old Roman Empire. Recently, the scaffolds covering the church’s most impressive feature, its dome, have finally been removed. Thus, the face of one of the six angel figures is now once again visible. The angels were last seen by Sultan Abdulmejid and architect Fossati, who had then undertaken the renovation of the building, and were covered in plaster and metal masks ever since. However, those mentioned above are not the only attractions; there are numerous other historical inheritances from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. The Golden Horn, where the sea creeps unnoticed into the land, splits Europe into two. Galata, spreading just opposite of Eminönü, has acquired its identity through the Genoese colony stationed there in the Byzantian era; one of Istanbul’s most famous and beloved districts, it is connoted by its tower. With graceful buildings remaining from when it had been the financial capital of the Ottoman Empire, also churches and mosques, Galata is praiseworthy both for its traditional beauty and vibrancy, acquired through the numerous new cafes, restaurants and art galleries in the district. The Galata Tower, built in 1348, played one of the leading roles in Hazerfan Ahmet Celebi’s flight to Üsküdar with wings he had made himself. It is pure joy to overlook the beautiful view of Istanbul from the Galata Tower. The reason why the view of Istanbul is so breathtaking is without a doubt because of the Bosphorus, penetrating right through the heart of the city. No matter if they lie on the European or the Asian sides of the city, districts along the Bosphorus always have a special appeal to them. Bebek, Kandilli, Ortaköy, Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar, Arnavutköy, Çengelköy, Kanl›ca… all of them are a different world. One can never get tired of drinking a cup of tea by the Bosphorus or making a tour of it by boat. Nerede Kal›n›r? Dedeman ‹stanbul Gayrettepe 0212 337 45 00 ‹fl dünyas›n›n ve e¤lence hayat›n›n merkezlerine yak›nl›¤›yla pek çok teknolojik kolayl›¤› bir arada sunan otel 325 odal›. Bir kral dairesi, yedi süiti ve 51 executive odas›yla her iste¤e hitap ediyor. ‹ki özel odas› da engelliler için tasarlanm›fl. Çok say›da tam donan›ml› toplant› odas›, Turkuaz Restoran, Roof Bar gibi fl›k restoran ve barlar› ile ‹stanbul gibi her daim canl›. 53 To Stay Dedeman ‹stanbul Gayrettepe +90 212 337 45 00 The hotel, with its close proximity to business and entertainment centers has 325 rooms. With one presidential suite, seven regular suites, and 51 executive rooms, it caters to every guest. Two of the rooms have been specially designed for the handicapped, a rarity in the city. It is always alive and vibrant, like Istanbul, with numerous fully equipped meeting rooms, beautiful restaurants and bars such as the Turkuaz Restaurant and Roof Bar. 54 Mistik fianl›urfa Mystical fianl›urfa KAVURUCU SICA⁄I, MEDEN‹YETLERE EV SAH‹PL‹⁄‹ YAPMIfi TOPRAKLARI, M‹ST‹K HAVASI VE ÇEfi‹T ÇEfi‹T KEBAPLARIYLA ÜN SALMIfi TAR‹H KOKAN KENT URFA… fiANLIURFA IS FAMOUS FOR ITS BLAZINGLY HOT CLIMATE, HAVING BEEN HOME TO MANY CIVILIZATIONS THROUGHOUT HISTORY, MYSTICAL ATMOSPHERE, DIFFERENT KEBABS AND AN AURA OF HISTORY… FOTO⁄RAF-PHOTOGRAPHY: AL‹YAVUZ ATA STYLING: MEHL‹KA AYDO⁄AN STYLING AS‹STAN-STYLING ASSISTANT: ECE SONER SAÇ/MAKYAJ - HAIR/MAKE-UP: SAMET K‹L‹C‹ MODEL: NEWMODELS - KAR‹NA ELB‹SE-DRESS S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, YELEK-VEST S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, BAfiLIK-CAP IfiIL GÜMÜfi (fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIfiANLIURFA BAZAAR). 55 POfi‹-HEAD SCARF ASLI F‹L‹NTA, ELB‹SE-DRESS S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, B‹LEZ‹K-BRACELET IfiIL GÜMÜfi. 56 57 Güneydo¤u’nun en s›cak flehirlerinden olan fianl›urfa, M.Ö. 132’de Osroene Krall›¤› taraf›ndan kurulmufl. Pek çok arkeolojik kal›nt›lar›n var oldu¤u flehrin 70 km kuzeyindeki Kantara köyünde çok güzel mozaik ve küçük heykellerden oluflan neolitik döneme ait yerleflim buluntular göze çarp›yor. Ayr›ca bölge neolitik ça¤a ait dünyadaki tek yerleflim yeri olma özelli¤i tafl›yor. Köklü tarihinin izlerini bugüne dek koruyan fianl›urfa tarih boyunca önemli bir din merkezi olmufl. H›ristiyanl›¤› resmi din olarak kullanan ilk yer olmas› d›fl›nda Hz. ‹brahim’in burada do¤up, yaflad›¤›na inan›lmas›, kenti semavi din topluluklar›n kutsal ziyaret yeri haline getirmifl. BALIKLI GÖL EFSANES‹ fianl›urfa efsanelerinin en ünlüsü olan Hz. ‹brahim’in atefle at›l›fl› Bal›kl› Göl’de geçiyor. Efsaneye göre Hz. ‹brahim’in dönemin zalim hükümdar› Nemrut ve halk›n›n tapt›¤› putlarla mücadele etmesi ve Nemrut’un k›z› Zeliha’ya sevdalanmas› sonucu cezaland›r›lacakt›r. Bal›kl› Göl’ün oldu¤u yerde büyük bir atefl yak›l›r ve Hz. ‹brahim atefle at›l›r. O an atefl göle odunlarda bal›¤a dönüflür. Hz. ‹brahim’in ard›ndan a¤layan Zeliha’n›n göz yafllar› ise bir göl daha oluflturur. Bal›kl› Göl’ün hemen yan›nda bulunan bu göle de Ayn-› Zeliha gölü denir. O günden sonra bu iki göl kutsal say›l›r ve her y›l yüzlerce turist bu dev bal›klardan oluflan do¤al akvaryumu görmeye gelir. One of Southeastern Turkey’s hottest climates, fianl›urfa has been built 132 B.C., at the time of the Osroene Kingdom. 70 kilometres south of the archeologically-rich city, is the Kantara village, with many remnants from the neolithical era, such as beautiful mosaics and little statues. Furthermore, the region prides itself upon being the only place of residence on Earth during the neolithical era. fianl›urfa, which carried the remnants of its history to this day, has been an important religious center. Apart from being the first city where Christianity was the official religion, the belief that Abraham was born and lived in fianl›urfa has made the city into a pilgrimage destionation for the believers of the divine religions. THE LEGEND OF LAKE BALIKLI The most prominent among the legends in fianl›urfa, Hz ‹brahim’s execution by burning, takes place in Lake Bal›kl› (Fish Lake). According to the legend, Propher Abraham was to be executed for fighting aginst the evil ruler Nemrut of that time and against the fetishes the crowd worshipped, and because of falling in love with Zeliha, ruler Nemrut’s daughter. A big fire was burnt in the place which is today Lake Bal›kl›, and Abraham was cast into the fire. At that instant, the fire turns into a lake and the wood which kept the fire burning to fishes. The tears Zliha shed for Abraham turn into a second lake. The second lake, right next to Lake Bal›kl›, is called the Ayn-› Zelih lake. After that day, these two lakes are believed to be holy and hundreds of tourists go every year to visit this natural aquarium, replete with gigantic fishes. 58 HARRAN fianl›urfa’n›n en ilgi çekici yerlerinden biri olan Harran tarihte önemli ticaret yollar›n›n kesiflti¤i bir noktada yer almas› sonucunda çok de¤erli tarihi eserlere sahip olmufl. Abbasi hükümdar› Harun Reflid’in yapt›rd›¤› dünyaca ünlü Harran Üniversitesi buradaym›fl. Fakat Farabi’nin de e¤itim gördü¤ü üniversiteden geriye bugün sadece astronomi kulesi kalm›fl. Harran’›n simgesi haline gelen külah biçimindeki toprak evler turistlerin en çok ilgisini çeken yap›lar aras›nda yer al›yor. HARRAN One of fianl›urfa’s most interesting destinations, Harran has a historical importance of being at the crossroads of many trade routes and carries many valuable historical remnants from those days. The globally famous Harran University, built by the Abbasi ruler Harun Reflid, was also built there. Unfortunately, from the famous university, where even Farabi studied, remains only the tower of astronomy. The cone-shaped houses made of earth are among the sites which attract a vast number of tourists. ELB‹SE-DRESS S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, YELEK-VEST S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, BAfiLIK-CAP IfiIL GÜMÜfi (fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIfiANLIURFA BAZAAR). 59 ELB‹SE-DRESS GAMZE SARAÇO⁄LU, YELEK-VEST S‹MAY BÜLBÜL. 60 YAPMADAN DÖNMEY‹N! DON’T MISS OUT! fianl›urfa’y› fianl›urfa yapan en önemli fleylerden biri flüphesiz ‘S›ra Gecesi’ kültürü. S›ra gecesinde herkes yerde oturuyor ve yemekler yöresel türküler eflli¤inde yer sofras›nda yeniyor. Urfal›lar için misafir a¤›rlamak ve onlara çeflitli ikramlarda bulunmak büyük önem tafl›yor. fianl›urfa’ya gitmiflken dillere destan patl›can kebab›n› tatmadan, çi¤ köfteyi do¤du¤u topraklarda yemeden dönmek olmaz. One of the most important traditions which makes fianl›urfa unique is the “s›ra evening” tradition. In a s›ra evening, everybody sits on the floor and eats their food on a floor table, accompanied by regional songs. For the inhabitants of fianl›urfa, it is very important to be hospitable and offer many delicious food items to the guests. It is impossible to come back from fianl›urfa without tasting the legendary eggplant kebab, or eating raw meatballs in its place of origin. DEDEMAN fiANLIURFA KOLYE -NECKLACE STYLIST’‹N - STYLIST’S NECKLACE, YELEK ve BLUZ -VEST and SHIRT GAMZE SARAÇO⁄LU, ETEK -SKIRT S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, AYAKKABI -SHOES ADEM&HAVVA. TÜRKMEN BAfiLI⁄I-TURKOMAN CAP SYTLIST’‹N-STYLIST’S CAP. 61 62 BLUZ-SHIRT S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, fiALVAR-SHALWAR fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIBEDESTEN, KEMER-BELT IfiIL GÜMÜfi, Ç‹ZME-BOOT ADEM&HAVVA. ELB‹SE-DRESS ÖZGÜR MANSUR, EfiARP-SCARF fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIBEDESTEN, B‹LEZ‹K-BRACELET STYL‹ST’‹N, Ç‹ZME-BOOT ADEM&HAVVA. 63 64 ELB‹SE-DRESS ÖZGÜR MANSUR, EfiARP-SCARF fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIBEDESTEN. DEDEMAN fiANLIURFA NEREDE KALINIR? fiehrin merkezinde konforlu odalar›, lezzet zengini yöresel yemeklerin sunuldu¤u restoranlar›, kapal› yüzme havuzu, güzellik salonu, sauna, buhar odas›, masaj gibi hizmetleri ile misafirlerini en iyi flekilde a¤›rlamay› amaç edinen Dedeman fianl›urfa yüksek teknoloji ve modern mimarisi ile konuklar›na ev sahipli¤i yap›yor. Adres: Atatürk Mah. Hastane Cad. fianl›urfa, Türkiye Tel: +90 414 316 8989 65 NASIL G‹D‹L‹R? fianl›urfa-‹stanbul aras› 1275 km. ‹stanbul’dan fianl›urfa’ya Ankara üzerinden karayoluyla gidebilirsiniz. Ama karayolu gözünüzde büyürse THY’n›n ‹stanbul-fianl›urfa seferleri ile 2 buçuk saatte fianl›urfa’ya varmak mümkün. THY: +90 212 444 0 849 TO STAY At the center of the city, with its modern architecture and technological services, restaurants offering all kinds of delicious regional foods, closed swimming pools, beauty salons, sauna, steam room and massage services, Dedeman fianl›urfa considers rendering the best service possible to its customers its mission. Atatürk Mah. Hastane Cad. fianl›urfa, Türkiye Tel: +90 414 316 8989 TO REACH The distance between fianl›urfa and ‹stanbul is 1275 km. You can travel to fianl›urfa through land over Ankara. However, if the prospect of a long travel intimidates you, it is possible to reach fianl›urfa in 2,5 hours with THY’s ‹stanbul-fianl›urfa flights. THY: +90 212 444 0 849 KOLYE -NECKLACE STYLIST’‹N - STYLIST’S NECKLACE, YELEK ve BLUZ -VEST and SHIRT GAMZE SARAÇO⁄LU, ETEK -SKIRT S‹MAY BÜLBÜL, AYAKKABI -SHOES ADEM&HAVVA. Dedeman fianl›urfa'ya ve bize flehri sevdiren otel floförü Tahir'e teflekkürler... Special thanks to Dedeman fianl›urfa and the hotel driver Tahir. DQ 66 TREND TREND Sanal Sey hat Virtual Traveling Yeni nesil gezginler yolculu¤a ilk ad›mlar›n› internette at›yorlar. Çünkü internet, son dakikada ayarlanan bir uçak biletinden kap›s›nda kuyruklar oluflan bir restoranda sizi bekleyen masan›za, say›s›z ayr›cal›¤› sakl›yor. Önemli olan do¤ru yerde ve zamanda do¤ru siteyi t›klamak. When the younger generation of travelers wants to plan a vacation, the first place they turn to is the Internet. Because the Internet allows you to book a plane ticket at a major discount, or book a table at a trendy venue when everyone else is waiting in line at the door. There are endless possibilities- as long as you know where to look. G‹DERKEN GETTING THERE Sidestep.com 200 site üzerinden 600 havayolu flirketinin fiyatlar›n› araflt›ran sitenin art›lar› uçufl saatine ve gidilecek yerin yak›n›ndaki tüm havalimanlar›na göre arama yap›labilmesi. Sidestep.com This website compares prices from 600 different airlines and 200 different websites. The fact that you can search based on flight time and closest airports (to your final destination) are major pluses. OTEL ARAYIfiI HOTEL SEARCH Flychepo.com Avrupa’daki düflük ücretli hava tafl›mac›l›¤› yapan 46 flirketin uçufllar›n› ö¤renmek için mükemmel bir kaynak. Sadece kalk›fl ve var›fl yerini seçmek yeterli. Seatguru.com Oturaca¤›n›z koltu¤un bacak aral›¤› uzun mu, tuvalete yak›n m›? 80’den fazla havayolu flirketinden 550’den fazla uçak plan› sayesinde en iyi koltu¤u kapmak elinizde. Farecast.com Geçmifle yönelik fiyat verilerini derleyip analiz ederek uçak bileti almak için en uygun zaman› belirliyor. Wegolo.com 700’ü aflk›n destinasyon için düflük ücretli hava tafl›mac›l›¤› yapan flirketleri araflt›rabilirsiniz. Flychepo.com This is the best website for comparing prices of the 46 airlines that offer discount flights within Europe. Choose your place of departure and arrival and flychepo.com will handle the rest. Seatguru.com How much legroom does your plane provide? Is the bathroom close to your seat? This website provides info on seats from over 550 planes and 80 airlines, ensuring that your flight will be as comfortable as possible. Farecast.com This website compiles info from past flights, analyzes the prices along with the time frame, and provides the best time for you to buy a ticket for the future. Wegolo.com Ekobilet.com Sitedeki promosyonlar› takip ederek çok ucuz uçak biletleri yakalayabilirsiniz. ‹ste¤e göre düflük ücretli havayolu flirketlerinin de uçufllar› da listeleniyor. Yapta.com E¤er uçufl rezervasyonunuzu havayolu flirketinin internet sayfas›ndan yapt›ysan›z Yapta fiyat›n düflmesi durumunda sizi uyar›yor. Insidetrip.com Sitede titiz yolcular için havayolu flirketlerinin kaç valiz kaybetti¤inden uçaklar›n yafl›na dek k›l› k›rk yaran istatistikler var. Check out the best prices from discount airlines for over 700 destinations. Ekobilet.com This website provides many promotions for cheap flights. You can also check out discounted flights from specific airlines of choice. Yapta.com Yapta informs you of a price drop on online flight reservations. Insidetrip.com This website is perfect for those afraid of flying! Statistics are provided such as how many luggage the airline has lost and how old the planes are, to put your mind at rest. Kayak.com Dünya çap›nda otellerin yerald›¤› sitede önerilerin %10’u gerçek kiflilerden geliyor. Foto¤raflarla ve haritalarla desteklenen tan›t›mlarla hayal k›r›kl›¤›na u¤rama ihtimali düflük. Lastminutetravel.com Son dakika seyahatlerinde gidece¤iniz flehrin lüks otellerindeki indirimli oda fiyatlar›n› listeleyen bir site. Tripadvisor.com Oteller ve restoranlara iliflkin gerçek yorumlarla ve foto¤raflarla an be an geniflleyen site alan›nda kesinlikle lider. Tvtrip.com Kalmay› planlad›¤›n›z oteli her yönden ele alan ve rakipleriyle k›yaslayan bir site. Videolar sayesinde otellerin içine girmifl kadar oluyorsunuz. Tripkick.com ‹lla ki süitte kalman›z gerekmez. Sitedeki gürültü seviyesi, manzara, lokasyon, banyo büyüklü¤ü gibi ipuçlar›yla otelin en iyi odas›n› bulabilirsiniz. I-escape.com Bali’deki bir bungalovdan Bordeaux’daki bir flatoya, butik kaçamaklar için harika öneriler var. Kayak.com This website provides reviews of hotels from past guests, as well as photos and maps, decreasing the chances of being disappointed upon arrival. Lastminutetravel.com This website provides info on discounted room prices at luxurious hotels for last-minute trips. Tripadvisor.com This site provides info on hotels and restaurants, with real customer reviews and photographs. This constantly updated website is the best out there. Tvtrip.com This site compares your hotel, down to the smallest details, with its competition. Videos allow you to feel as if you’re inside the hotel before you’ve even boarded your flight. Tripkick.com The best room at the hotel might not necessarily be the suite, especially if you consider view, location, bathroom size and the ever important, street noise factor! This website helps you find the best room at your hotel, according to a number of overlooked details. I-escape.com From a bungalow in Bali to a chateaux in Bordeaux, this website provides great locations for boutique getaways. 67 68 BAVUL HAZIRLARKEN G‹DECE⁄‹N‹Z YERDEK‹ KAPSAMLI HAVA DURUMUNA BAKMANIZDA FAYDA VAR SEYAHAT PLANI TRAVEL ITINERARY Homeandabroad.com Homeandabroad.com Seyahatinizi gidece¤iniz destinasyona göre bafltan sona tasarlayan bir site. Bunu yaparken uzman görüfllerinden faydalan›yor. This website plans your entire trip from start to finish, making use of expert advice throughout. Cruisecritic.com This website provides information on over 60 cruise line operators, including information on everything from travel insurance to amenities such as pools, and discounted tours to boot. Cruisecritic.com 60’dan fazla cruise operatörüne dair -seyahat sigortas›ndan havuzlara- her detay›n araflt›r›ld›¤› sitede indirimli turlar da bulmak mümkün. Triporama.com Grup halinde ç›k›lacak tatillerde internet üzerinden fikir al›flveriflinde bulunarak herkese eflit söz hakk› verilebilir. Tripbase.com MAKE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE WEATHER OF THE PLACE YOU WILL BE TRAVELING TO Tripbase beklentilerinize uygun tatil destinasyonlar› bulabilmeniz için öneriler ve söz konusu destinasyonlara ait faydal› bilgiler sunuyor. Zicasso.com Bütçenizi, nereye ve ne zaman seyahat etmek istedi¤inizi ve daha fazlas›n› içeren bir formu doldurduktan sonra Zicasso, seyahatinizi ayr›nt›l› olarak planl›yor. Triporama.com It can be impossible to plan a trip with a big group, what with varying tastes and schedules. This site allows you to create a group homepage, send invites etc. to make it as simple as possible. Tripbase.com Tripbase helps you choose the travel destination you’ll enjoy the most, based on your interests (categories includes nightlife, nature, dining, attractions, shopping). You can modify the selections by price as well. Zicasso.com Zicasso chooses the trip most appropriate for you based on your budget, where and when you’d like to travel and more. FAYDALI B‹LG‹LER USEFUL INFORMATION Xe.com 70 Xe.com Dakikada bir güncellenen verilerle, kolay kullan›ml› bir para kuru dönüfltürücüsü. 85 ülke kurunu birbirine çevirebilirsiniz. This site provides money exchange rates, updated every minute, and includes over 85 countries. Weather.com Make sure to check out the weather of the place you will be traveling to. Weather.com YOL RAPORU ROAD REPORT Hopstop.com Amerika’daki sekiz flehrin yan›nda Paris ve Londra’n›n flehir içi ulafl›m ipuçlar› çok kullan›fll› olabilir. ‹ster yürüyün ister metroya binin, site sizi gidece¤iniz yere ad›m ad›m yönlendiriyor. Viamichelin.com Avrupa’n›n otoyollar›nda gidece¤iniz her kilometreyi, alternatif yollar›, ne kadar yak›t harcayaca¤›n›z› ve hatta nerelerde radar oldu¤unu detayland›ran faydal› bir site. Hopstop.com This site provides information on traveling within a city. Cities listed include 8 American cities as well as Paris and London. Whether you enjoy walking or taking the metro, this site provides details and info so you don’t get lost. Viamichelin.com This site provides info on Europe’s highways. From distances, to alternative routes, to how much fuel you’ll be using to the location of radars, this site ensures you get to your destination as smoothly as possible. Bavul haz›rlarken gidece¤iniz yerdeki kapsaml› hava durumuna bakman›zda fayda var. Tripprep.com Seyahat sa¤l›¤›na dair hayat kurtar›c› bilgiler içeren sitede yurtd›fl›ndaki doktorlara ve sa¤l›k kurulufllar›na iliflkin listeler yer al›yor. Aboutairportparking.com 100’den fazla havaliman›nda 4000’den fazla otopark›n terminale uzakl›¤›n› ve park ücretlerini ö¤renmek için orada olman›za gerek yok. Rezervasyon da yap›labiliyor. Tripprep.com This site is provides life-saving info on doctors and health centers abroad. Aboutairportparking.com This site provides information on over 100 airports and 4000 parking garages. Distance from terminals, prices and more are provided. Reservations can also be made. YEMEK ZAMANI DINING OPTIONS Opentable.com Dünya üzerinde 9000’e yak›n restorandan tek t›kla masan›z› ay›rtma ayr›cal›¤› bu sitede. Seriouseats.com Bir milyona yak›n yemek afl›¤›n›n restoranlar›n menüleri, en bilindik fleflerden tarifler ve yerel pazarlar üzerine fikir al›flveriflinde bulundu¤u site yemek iflini ciddiye al›yor. Opentable.com This site allows you to make reservations at over 9000 restaurants around the world with the single click of the mouse. Seriouseats.com This site is a foodie’s paradise. Providing over 1 million restaurants’ menus, recipes from famous chefs and discussions on topics such as the best non-dairy milk, seriouseats is serious about food! NEWS DQ HABERLER NEWS 71 DEDEMAN’DAN HED‹YE A SPECIAL OFFER FROM DEDEMAN Türkiye’nin en köklü ve büyük, dünyan›n 185’inci oteller zinciri Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, 1 A¤ustos 2009-1 Ekim 2009 tarihleri aras›nda Dedeman Otelleri’nde gerçeklefltirilecek en az 2 gecelik konaklamalarda 1 gece ücretsiz konaklama imkan› sunuyor. ‹ki kiflilik odalarda “günün en iyi fiyat›” ile en az iki gece gerçekleflen konaklamalarda, bu kampanya ile herhangi bir Dedeman Oteli’nde oda + kahvalt› iki kiflilik bir gece konaklama imkan›n› konuklar›n› bekliyor. Belirlenen tarihler aras›nda gerçeklefltirilecek konaklamalarda kazan›lacak ücretsiz konaklama haklar› 2009 senesinin sonuna kadar Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International bünyesinde yer alan 7’si yurt d›fl›, 15’i yurt için toplam 22 otelde geçerli olacak. Detayl› bilgi ve rezervasyon için (0212) 444 43 36. Turkey’s largest, and the world’s 185th largest, hotel chain Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, has a special offer from August 1- October 1 2009. Customers who stay at any Dedeman Hotel for at least two nights between these dates, are granted a night of free stay in any of the Dedeman Hotels. The offer does not expire until the end of 2009, including bed and breakfast for two people. This offer is applicable to any of the 15 domestic, or 7 international Dedeman Hotels. For details and reservations, call (0212)444 43 36. NEWS DQ HABERLER NEWS 72 DEDEMAN DÜNYANIN EN BÜYÜK 300 OTEL Z‹NC‹R‹ ARASINDA DEDEMAN; IN THE “TOP 300 LARGEST HOTEL COMPANIES WORLDWIDE” LISTING Türkiye’nin en köklü otel zinciri Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, uluslararas› Hotels Dergisi’nin her y›l haz›rlad›¤› “Dünya’n›n En Büyük Oteller Zincirleri” s›ralamas›nda 15’i yurt içi ve 7’si yurt d›fl›nda yer alan toplam 22 oteli ve 4793 oda say›s› ile bir y›lda 53 s›ra yükselerek 185’incili¤e yerleflti. Geçti¤imiz sene Türkiye’den listeye giren tek otel zincir olan, Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, 2008 y›l›nda dünyan›n en büyük otel zincirleri s›ralamas›nda 185. s›raya yükselerek büyük bir baflar› elde etti. Ülkemizde 15, yurt d›fl›nda 7, toplam 22 otelinde “Geleneksel Dedeman Misafirperverli¤i’ni” ile konuklar›n› a¤›rlayan Dedeman Hotels & Resort International, 50. y›l›n› kutlayaca¤› 2016 y›l›nda 50. otelini açmay› hedefliyor. Turkey’s long-established hotel chain Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, has jumped 53 levels this year, 185th place, in the Hotels Magazine’s annual “Top 300 Largest Hotel Companies Worldwide” ranking with its 15 local and 7 abroad, totally 22 hotels and 4793 rooms. Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, which was the only Turkish Hotel chain in the listing, last year, has gained a tremendous honour by being rated as the 185th biggest chain in the world in 2008. Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International serves guests with “Traditional Dedeman Hospitality” in 15 local and 7 abroad hotels and is aiming to reach its goal by the end of 2016; 50 hotels in the 50th year. 73 MO⁄OL RALL‹S‹ MONGOLIAN RALLY Dünyan›n pek çok yerinde yard›m kampanyalar› yap›l›yor ancak burada bahsedece¤imiz organizasyon gerçekten bir ilk! Dave Andrews, Nick Hawkins, Advait Patil, Matt Davis ve George Crowther isimli 5 arkadafl bir ambulansla Londra’dan Mo¤olistan’a gidiyor... Amaçlar› Ulan Bayor’a ulaflt›klar›nda ambulans› oradaki bir hastaneye ba¤›fllamak. Bu uzun yolculuk esnas›nda toplad›klar› yard›mlar› da çeflitli hay›r kurumlar›na ba¤›fllamak istiyorlar. Yolculuk esnas›nda yollar› ‹stanbul ve Rize’ye de düflen gençler, geçti¤imiz aylarda Dedeman Otelleri’nde konaklad›. Bu yard›m kampanyas›na konaklama yard›m› ile kat›lan Dedeman yönetimi böyle bir giriflimi desteklemekten son derece memnun ve gururlu. Detayl› bilgi için; www.thedouglascar.com There have been charity donations and campaigns everywhere on Earth but this time this one is truly the first of its kind. Dave Andrews, Nick Hawkins, Advait Patil, Matt Davis and George Crowther are traveling from London to Mongolia in an ambulance! After they reach their destination, Ulan Bayor, they are to donate the ambulance to a hospital there and the charity funds they received throughout their journey, to different charity organizations. The young men also passed through ‹stanbul and Rize on their way and stayed at Dedeman Hotels. Dedeman Hotels, contribute to this project by providing accommodations, and is honored to be supporting such a project. For more details; www.thedouglascar.com DQ HABERLERNEWS 74 HIZ ve ADENAL‹N SPEED AND ADRENALINE Dünyan›n en zorlu sporlar›ndan biri olan uçurum atlay›fl›/yüksekten atlama, Red Bull Cliff Diving Series ile sporcular›n minimum 26 metre yüksekli¤indeki noktalardan suya atlayarak 2,5 saniyede 90 km. gibi müthifl bir h›za ulaflt›¤›, kontrol, akrobasi ve tehlike s›n›rlar›n›n zorland›¤› nefes kesici bir spor müsabakas›na dönüfltü. Türkiye’nin en yayg›n oteller zinciri olan Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International ise 8 A¤ustos 2009 Cumartesi günü Antalya Atatürk Park›’›nda gerçekleflen Red Bull Cliff Diving Series’e destek verdi. Bu zorlu sporu yapan atletler, yerli va yabanc› bas›n mensuplar› ile organizasyon ekibi Dedeman Antalya Hotel & Convention Center’da konaklad›. Eflsiz manzaras›, güleryüzlü çal›flanlar› ve leziz yemekleriyle Cliff Diving ekibini a¤›rlayan Dedeman Antalya, falezlerin üstüne kurulan platform ile sporcular›n müsabakadan önce de antrenman yapmalar›n› sa¤lad›. 12 sporcunun yar›flt›¤› Red Bull Cliff Diving 2009 Antalya’da Rus atlet Artem Silchenko biricili¤i al›rken, Kolombiya’l› Orlando Duque ikinci, ‹ngiliz atlet Gary Hunt ise üçüncü oldu. One of the world's most extreme sports, cliff diving has become a sports competition with the Red Bull Diving Series, where the competitors jump from at least 26 meters into water, reaching an astonishing speed of 90 meters in 2.5 seconds. Turkey's most prominents hotel and resort chain, Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, has contributed to Red Bull Cliff Diving Series, which took place August 8, 2009. The athletes lodged in the Dedeman Antalya Hotel & Convention Center, alongside local and foreign press members and members of the organizational team.Dedeman Antalya also made it possible for the athletes to train before the competition with the platform built upon the sea cliff. In the Red Bull Cliff Diving 2009 Antalya, Russian athlete Artem Silchenko recieved first place, Colombian Orlando Duque second, and English Gary Hunt third. DEDEMAN ‹STANBUL’DA GÖRKEML‹ N‹KAH SEREMON‹S‹ A GLAMOROUS WEDDING CEREMONY FROM THE DEDEMAN ‹STANBUL 75 ‹stanbul’un en gözde ve köklü otelleri aras›nda yer alan Dedeman ‹stanbul, dü¤ün haz›rl›klar›na bafllayan çiftlere özel yeni bir uygulamaya imza at›yor. Nikah salonu yerine, evlili¤e ilk ad›m›n› befl y›ld›zl› otel konforunda ve özenli hizmet anlay›fl›yla atmak isteyen çiftler için özel “Nikah Seremonisi” paketi sunuyor. Nikah masas›, gelin yolu süslemesi, fl›k sandalyeler ile dekore edilmifl ihtiflaml› balo salonunda gerçekleflecek nikah töreni sonras›nda konuklara profesyonel DJ eflli¤indeki müzikle beraber otelin hediyesi olarak sunulan dü¤ün pastas›, çay, kahve ve meyve suyu ikram› yap›l›yor. Özel “Nikah Seremonisi”, bu en mutlu gününde farkl›l›k yaratmak isteyen çiftleri bekliyor. Among Istanbul’s favorite, best-established hotels, the Dedeman ‹stanbul has a special offer for couples preparing for a wedding. For couples who would prefer to have their ceremony in the comfort of a five star hotel instead of a wedding hall, Dedeman Hotels is granting the special “Wedding Package.” After the wedding ceremony, which would take place in a beautiful ballroom decorated with glamorous tables and decorations, a breathtaking aisle for the bride to walk down, the guests are offered wedding cake, tea and coffee from the Dedeman kitchen while live DJ music plays in the background. This special “wedding ceremony” awaits those who would want to experience their most special day in a different, elegant and pleasant surrounding. DQ HABERLERNEWS UNUTULMAYA YÜZ TUTMUfi LEZZETLER DISHES FORGOTTEN FROM DAYS PAST 09/09/2009 tarihinde Dedeman ‹stanbul’da Dedeman Holding ‹cra kurulu Baflkan› Murat Ero¤lu ve Dedeman Turizm Yönetimi Genel Müdürü Tamer Yürüko¤lu’nun ev sahipli¤inde iftar yeme¤i düzenlendi. Ahmet Örs, Ali Esad Göksel, Nevin Hal›c›, Emel Erden gibi Türk gastronomi dünyas›n›n çok önemli isimlerinin kat›ld›¤› davette “Unutulmaya Yüz Tutmufl Lezzetler” orijinal halleriyle misafirlere sunuldu. Geceye ayr›ca y›llar önce aram›zdan ayr›lan Türkiye’nin en önemli gurmelerinden merhum Tu¤rul fiavkay’›n efli Esen fiavkay da kat›ld›. Dedeman Ankara, Dedeman Antalya, Dedeman Bodrum, Dedeman Cappadocia, Dedeman Gaziantep, Dedeman Konya ve Dedeman ‹stanbul’un “Executive fief”leri, sadece bu akflama özel olarak geleneksel ama neredeyse unutulmufl iftar yemekleriyle benzersiz bir lezzet yolculu¤u yapt›rd›lar. Kedi batmaz, mevlevi böre¤i, k›z›lc›k tarhanas›, sakala çarpan çorbas›, hoflmerim, fliveydiz gibi yöresel tatlar›n yan›s›ra 400 y›ll›k geçmifle sahip Osmanl› Saray mutfa¤›n›n da en güzel örnekleri olan çeflidiy-e, muammiy-e, balkaba¤› dolmas› mönüde yerald›lar. De¤iflik ekmek çeflitlerinin sunuldu¤u gecede ayr›ca hatmi çiçe¤i, balkaba¤›, demirhindi, gülbeyaz, dut flerbetleri, limonata ve tarç›n ve karanfille harmanlanm›fl demleme çay ikram› yap›ld›. Gecenin sonunda ise konuklara Ahmet Örs, Artun Ünsal, Nevin Hal›c›, Mehmet Yaflin ve Tu¤rul fiavkay’›n kitaplar› ve difl kiras› olarak kuruyemifl keseleri hediye edildi. On 09/09/2009 Dedeman Holding Executive Committee Head Mr. Murat Ero¤lu and Dedeman Tourism Management Inc. General Manager Mr. Tamer Yürüko¤lu organized an iftar (breaking of the fast) dinner at Dedeman Istanbul. Many important names from the world of Turkish gastronomy including Ahmet Örs, Ali Esad Göksel, Nevin Hal›c› and Emel Erden participated in the dinner ‘Dishes forgotten from days past’, where the foods were presented in their original versions. Additionally, Esen fiavkay, the wife of one of Turkey’s most important gourmet chefs, Tu¤rul fiavkay, who left us many years ago, also joined the dinner. The Executive Chefs of Dedeman Ankara, Dedeman Antalya, Dedeman Bodrum, Dedeman Cappadocia, Dedeman Gaziantep, Dedeman Konya and Dedeman Istanbul prepared traditional, but mostly forgotten, iftar dishes for an unforgettable gastronomic journey. Some of the regional dishes served included kedi batmaz, mevlevi böre¤i, k›z›lc›k tarhanas›, sakala çarpan çorbas›, hoflmerim and fliveydiz and 400-year-old recipes from the Ottoman Palace kitchen including çeflidiye, muamiye and balkaba¤› dolmas›. In addition to the many different bread varieties served, hatmi çiçe¤i, balkaba¤›, demirhindi, gülbeyaz, dut flerbetleri, lemonade and brewed tea that was a mix of cinnamon and cloves were also served. At the end of the night, guests were given complimentary copies of Ahmet Örs, Artun Ünsal, Nevin Hal›c›, Mehmet Yaflin ve Tu¤rul fiavkay’s books in addition to little bags of dried fruit and nuts. 77 B‹REYSEL S‹LAHSIZLANMAYA ÇA⁄RI Umut Vakf›; bireysel silahlanma fliddetini yaflam›fl herkesi ve bireysel silahlanmaya karfl› olanlar› bireysel silahlanmay› protestoya ça¤›r›yor. 28 Eylül Bireysel Silahs›zlanma Günü’nde, saat 12:00’de bafllayacak olan Sessiz Ayakkab›lar›n Yürüyüflü’nde, ateflli silahlarla hayat›n› kaybedenler ad›na k›rm›z› hal› üzerine b›rak›lacak ayakkab›lar “bireysel silahlanmaya karfl›” yürüyecekler. Taksim Meydan›’nda yap›lacak olan Sessiz Ayakkab›lar›n Yürüyüflü, Umut Vakf› Kurucu Baflkan› Nazire Dedeman’›n konuflmas›yla aç›lacak. “Silah Yasa Tasar›s›” hakk›nda Umut Vakf› ‹nceleme Komisyonu Toplant›s› Sonuç Bildirgesi Deklarasyonu’nun ve Beyo¤lu Belediyesi Baflkan› Ahmet Misbah Demircan’›n konuflmas›n›n ard›ndan pandomim performans› eflli¤inde k›rm›z› hal› üzerine ayakkab›lar b›rak›lacak. Böylece “sessiz ayakkab›lar” k›rm›z› hal›da yürüyerek, bireysel silahlanmay› protesto edecekler. CALL TO INDIVIDUAL DISARMAMENT Umut Vakf› is inviting everyone to join in on the protest against individual disarmament in Istanbul. On Individual Disarmament Day, September 28, the The March of Silent Shoes protest will commence at 12:00 am. During the demonstration, on behalf of the people who have died due to firearm usage, shoes will be placed on a red carpet to symbolize the footsteps of those passed. The March of Silent Shoes will take place in Taksim Square, and will begin with a speech from the founder of Umut Vakf›, Nazire Dedeman. After the speech, the mayor of Beyo¤lu, Ahmet Misbah Demircan, will also speak in regards to the issue at hand. Come see and participate in a good cause, The March of Silent Shoes and have your own footprint be a part of history. DQ 78 Ö Y K Ü - S T O R Y çorap socks YAZI-WORDS: YA⁄MUR T. ERDEM O çorab› onun kafas›na ben ördüm. Popifline yedi¤i flaplak benim yüzümdendir. Ama deli ediyor adam› ara s›ra. Böyle güzel kokmasa zaten basar›m difllerimi bo¤az›na, g›k› ç›kmadan cumburlop öteki dünyay› boylar. Ama çorab› bu yüzden örmedim. fiimdi, nas›l desem... Evet büyüdüm art›k, olgun say›l›r›m. Ve annem ikimizi de çok seviyor (san›r›m). Onu öpünce beni, beni öpünce onu öpüyor. Ama onunla daha çok oynuyor. Gerçi ben oynamay› sevmiyorum art›k, büyü¤üm ben, ama yine de sinir oluyorum elimde de¤il. Bir bak›yorum bunlar sarmafl dolafl... Bir de yok mu benim küçük kokotun annemi hafif hafif ›s›rmas›... Mest oluyor annem. Dakikalarca ›s›r›fl›yorlar. E insaf! Terlik çal›yorum, çorap çal›yorum, annem ancak o zaman b›rak›yor onu. Darac›k salonda koflturup duruyoruz; güya ben h›rs›z o polis. Ama ne çald›ysam zarar vermeyece¤imi bildi¤inden, acele etmiyor a¤z›mdakini almakta. Ben önde o arkada kofluyoruz. Esmer cad›s› tek durur mu? Cilveler, havlamalar, annemin önüne top b›rakmalar... E tatl› da... Annem bu sefer ikimize birden yetiflmeye çal›fl›yor. Onun ifli de kolay de¤il. Bir akflam iflten döndü¤ünde kocaman bir kutuyla geldi annem. Delirdik tabii ikimiz birden. Bir: Annemiz geldi. ‹ki: Kocaman bir kutu, ne de güzel parçalan›r flimdi. Kutuyu ikiye bölüp alt›n› benim önüme, üstünü Esmer’e att›; adildir. Esmer pisi tabii hemen ikisine birden konmaya çal›flt›. Onun kendi üstüyle yetinmeyip el koymaya çal›flt›¤› alt› k›zarak ondan ald›, yine benim önüme koydu annem, Esmer’e de parma¤›n› sallay›p “hmmm” sesi ç›kararak uyard›. Beni korur. Sonra dufla girdi ama banyoya gitmeden önce kutudan ç›kan ayakkab›lar› ayakkab›l›¤a koydu. Ayakkab›l›k bizim yetiflebilece¤imiz boydad›r ama oraya dokunmay›z; k›zar annemiz. Onu k›zd›rmak istemeyiz, bizi hep sevsin isteriz. Annemiz dufla girince benim hakk›m olan kutu parças›n› sanki istemeden Esmer’e kapt›rm›fl›m gibi yap›p yavaflça (ses ç›karmadan harika yürürüm) ayakkab›l›¤a yöneldim. En seri hareketlerimle kutudan ç›km›fl yeni ayakkab›y› a¤z›ma al›p koca koca ›s›rd›m. Neyse ki Esmer gelinceye kadar epey bir zarar vermeyi baflard›m. Cad› k›z gelince tabii ki do¤ruca a¤z›mdan ald› ayakkab›y›. Ben 32 kiloyum o 22. Benim difllerim çok daha kocaman ama o da çok cad›. Ayr›ca ben h›rt›flmakla sürtüflmekle filan u¤raflamam; nas›l denir, keyfime düflkünüm biraz. Annem arada bana tembel der. Öyle olsun. Bizim saf Esmer’i görün; ayakkab›y› a¤z›mdan al›nca bayram etti. Bir posta da o parçalad›. Bense sanki yemek bekliyormuflum gibi gittim mutfa¤›n köflesine yatt›m. Annem dufltan ç›kt›. Ç›kt› ç›kmas›na ama, yepyeni ayakkab›s›n› Esmer’i a¤z›nda görünce k›yameti kopard›! I weaved this web around her. It is because of me that she got a spanking on her cute butt. But she does drive you crazy once in a while. If she didn’t smell so sweet, I would just press my teeth to her throat, and she would leave this world without a sound. But this is not why I weaved the web. Now, how should I say…Yes, I am all grown up now, can be considered mature even. And Mom loves us both so much (I think). She kisses me when she kisses her, she kisses her when she kisses me. She plays with her more though. I mean, I don’t like to play anymore, I am grown up, but it’s still annoying. I look over, and they’re all entwined together. And the little bites she gives my mother…delight her. They bite each other for hours. I steal slippers, I steal socks, and only then does my mom let go of her. We keep running around in the small living room, as if I am the robber and she’s the cop. But since she knows that I don’t mean any harm whenever I steal, she doesn’t hurry to catch me. We just keep running, me in front, mom in the back. Oh, but does the bad witch stay back? She turns on her little charm, woofs, leaves a ball in front of my mother…Well, it’s kind of cute …Then Mom tries to keep up with us both. Her job isn’t easy either. Mom came from work carrying a huge box. Of course, both of us went crazy with excitement. One: Mom was home. Two: A huge box, how fun it would be to rip it apart! She tore the box in two, gave the bottom part to me, and the top part to Esmer: quite fair. Esmer, that sneaky girl, naturally tried to take both parts for herself. Mom took back the bottom part of the box from her and gave it back to me; she waved her finger at Esmer and warned her by making a “hmmmmm” noise. She defends me. Then she went to take a shower, but before she put the shoes, which she took out of the box into the shoe closet. It’s not as if we can’t reach the shoe closet, but we don’t, because then Mom gets mad and we don’t want her mad at us. We want her to always love us. When Mom went into the shower, I pretended as if Esmer had once again forcefully stolen my part of the box, and headed quietly (I’m very good at walking quietly) to the shoe closet. I took the new shoes Mom had placed into the closet and bit it all I could. Thank God I managed to damage it sufficiently before Esmer came along. Of course, when the bitch came she took the shoe straight out of my mouth. I weigh 32 kgs, and she 22. My teeth are much larger but she can be very crafty. And also, how should I say, I don’t bother much to hustle and bustle around. Mom calls me lazy once in a while. Whatever. You should have seen Esmer, she was thrilled when she got the shoe out of my mouth and did her own fair share of ripping it. I, on the other hand, simply headed for the kitchen, lazily, as if I were waiting to be fed. Mom got out 79 80 Annem bize çok az gerçekten k›zar. Genelde birlikte çok e¤leniriz. Oraya buraya çoraplar b›rak›r, ben de onun mahsus b›rakt›¤›n› anlamazdan gelip güya onlar› çalar›m, kaçmaya bafllar›m (bu dan›fl›kl› dövüflten haberi olmayan Esmer sadece benim a¤z›mdakini almak üzere peflimden fluursuzca koflmaya bafllar), annem flakadan “yaramazlar sizi!” diye 盤l›klar atar nefle içinde... Baflka oyunlar›m›z da var. Ama bu sefer gerçekten k›zm›flt›. Herhalde akflam babamla bir yere gideceklerdi ve annem o ayakkab›y› giyecekti; sizin de anneniz varsa onlar›n giyime kuflama, özellikle de ayakkab›ya ne kadar düflkün olduklar›n› bilirsiniz. fiunu da söylemem laz›m: Ben iki y›ld›r annemin eflyalar›n› parçalamay›p sadece çal›yorum. Esmer de ö¤rendi son zamanlarda gerçi, çal›nan mal sadece a¤za al›nacak oyun için, maksat parçalamak de¤il... Ama benim safdil sevgilim, bakt› ki ben parçalam›fl›m (ki annem bazen can›m›z›n s›k›ld›¤›n› görünce kutu, çorap, eski terlik ne bulursa parçalay›p oynayal›m diye çakt›rmadan önümüze atar, ama Esmer gibi çok zeki olmayan köpekler için neyin parçalan›p neyin parçalanmayaca¤›n› anlamak elbette zor olabilir), Sar› parçalad›¤›na göre bu parçalanabilir bir fley demek ki diyerek ayakkab›y› bir güzel benzetti iflte anlatt›¤›m gibi.... Annem gerçi flüphelenmedi de¤il... Bana bakt› önce: “Sen mi çald›n bunu Sar›?” dedi. Ama bu sefer akl›m› kulland›m: Suçlu oldu¤um zamanlarda yapt›¤›m gibi kulaklar›m› düflürüp gözlerimi yere devirerek yan yan bakmad›m anneme. Kuyru¤u ve kulaklar› dik tuttum. Annem suçlu de¤ilim zannetti. Bakt› ki benden ç›kmam›fl ifl, Esmer’in o f›st›k popifline bir flaplak... Ya... fiu anda kim daha sevimli, Esmer Han›m? of the shower, but when she saw her new shoe being devoured by Esmer, she lost it! Mom never really gets mad at us, only on rare occasions. Usually we have a lot of fun together, she leaves socks all over the place and I, pretending that she had not left them on purpose, “steal” them and start to run (Esmer, who has no idea of our game, just blindly runs after me to get whatever is in my mouth), and mom screams “Oh, you naughties!” We play other games as well, but this time she was really, truly mad. She was probably going somewhere with Dad tonight and was planning on wearing that shoe; if you have a mother of your own you probably know how much they like to dress up, and how they are attached to shoes in particular. Furthermore, I should add this detail: for the past two years, I have only stolen my mother’s shoes, I never rip or tear them. I mean, Esmer has been learning recently too, that you just hold her stuff in your mouth, not chew it. Ah, but my naïve love, once she saw me ripping apart the shoe (Mom does throw to us once in a while stuff that is meant to be ripped apart, old boxes, socks, shoes, but dumb dogs like Esmer can’t always distinguish what is to be ripped and what is not), thought that she could do it as well. It’s not as if Mom did not get suspicious of me, she looked at me first and asked: “Sari, did you steal this shoe?” But this time I used my head: I didn’t droop my ears and cast my eyes to the floor, as I usually do when I am guilty. No, I held my ears and tail straight up, which lead my mom to automatically assume that I am not guilty. And once she reached this conclusion, a nice little spank to Esmer’s cute butt followed! Guess who is cuter now, Ms. Esmer?