A cut above the rest - Hohenstein Institute

Transkript

Textile research and services
2ed edition 2014
www.hohenstein.com
HOHENSTEIN IMPULSE
THE LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE HOHENSTEIN INSTITUTE
A cut above the rest
Know-how, strategies and trouble-shooting for fit and pattern-cutting
A good fit is the second most important criterion after value for
money when buying clothes that‘s what 63.6% of those questioned in the „Outfit 6”* market
survey reported. However, why
this important quality feature is
causing more and more problems
for manufacturers, importers and
retailers, and how they are resolving them, was something we
wanted to find out from our experts in fit and pattern cutting. In
our special focus on fit and pattern cutting on the next few pages, we introduce in more detail
the research projects and services
they talked about.
The range of services we offer extends from adjusting and correcting
individual model designs and basic
patterns to providing detailed advice
and employee training.
It‘s getting hard to find new staff
to take over in pattern-cutting
and design departments. What effect does this have on your work?
BEATE URBAN: We have certainly
been noticing in recent years that
small and medium-sized companies
in particular are increasingly using
external specialists like ourselves as
an outsourced pattern-cutting department. According to our customers, in
addition to the recruitment problem,
there are also many good financial reasons for this: it can definitely make
commercial sense for them to „buy
in” the necessary expertise in pattern
cutting for a limited time only or for
specific projects.
Why, despite all the up-to-date
data from the SizeGERMANY
size survey, do retailers and consumers still complain about problems with fit?
STEPHANIE MÜLLER: Up-to-date
tables of body dimensions and garment sizes are a first and important
step towards achieving a good fit.
That‘s why, in addition to the data
from SizeGERMANY, we also have
countless other studies of other specific target groups (see page 3). But
in themselves they are by no means
a guarantee of a good fit. Whether
a garment is perceived
by the wearer as fitting depends on how
it looks and feels on
their body. The design and the materials used, and their
specific characteristics such as elas-
STEPHANIE MÜLLER, Division Manager
for Clothing Technology, has been
carrying out fit testing for customers
for over 17 years. Her team of about 60
people works with over 250 volunteers
representing all figure types and age
groups so that they can optimise the
fit of clothing for all kinds of target
groups.
ticity and draping, as well as their
surface finish and weight, are further
important factors.
What help can you offer clothing
manufacturers, importers and retail companies in this situation?
BEATE URBAN, Division Manager for
Pattern Construction, is a specialist in
designing and improving patterns, with
decades of professional experience.
She applies this to all kinds of different
projects. Depending on what the
customer needs, she can also act as
trouble-shooter or strategist.
to develop specific tools to help companies. One of the most recent examples of this is a digital catalogue
listing typical fitting problems and
providing instructions for how these can be overcome by altering the
cut and/or the material.
SIMONE MORLOCK: Problems with
fit can have their origins, or occur,
during all phases of product development or during production itself.
That‘s why it is important to make
sure that quality control as far as fit
is concerned is really an integral
part throughout the whole process.
In the light of this, in recent years we
have run various research projects
HIGHLIGHTS
But what happens if this „helping
people to help themselves” is not
enough to sort out the problems?
STEPHANIE MÜLLER: Certainly it
often happens that our experts are
called in to act as trouble-shooters,
to analyse and resolve a serious problem. What we do then is, first of
all, use prototype versions of the ba-
SIMONE MORLOCK, Senior Scientist
in the Clothing Technology Research
Division, has run numerous research
projects on clothing technology with
public funding over the last 15 years.
For example, men and women with
plus-size figures have been measured
and special size charts produced, for use
in designing trousers.
sic pattern or model design to carry
out fit testing. Since we work with
volunteers in all age groups and all
different sizes, we can give the customer a representative analysis of the
fit in relation to their particular target group. Then we advise them on
how it could be improved.
BEATE URBAN: Many customers also
send us the actual products in which
they have identified a problem themselves. In those cases we start with
fault analysis straightaway. Often we
ask to be sent the producer‘s pattern.
That helps us to correct the fault faster and more effectively.
You can find the complete interview
here:
Beate Urban
[email protected]
www.hohenstein.de/pr-616-EN
DIAGNOSIS:
FIT
HISTORY OF THE SKIN
SENSORY COMFORT
MARK
THE ARTIFICIAL
UTERUS 'ARTUS'
DESIGN-COMPETITION
SPACETEX 2030
Page 3
Page 4
Page 5
Page 6
Page 2 | Impulse | 2/2014
READER
SURVEY
Thank you very much for
your ideas!
In our previous issue, we asked
you for your ideas about the
design and content
of the Hohenstein
I m p u l s e .
We
were
delighted
with the many
ideas that were submitted
and have considered them all
carefully. The process has given
us some valuable tips about
how we can make our
customer magazine
even more interesting
and attractive. For
this, and for all your praise, thank
you very much indeed!
With our focus on „Fit and Cut” in
this magazine, we are picking up
on a suggestion for content that
was made to us by several people.
We hope that our interviews and
the introduction to our current
research projects and services will
help you to put your company in
a strong position in this regard.
Please do continue to help us by
telling us about any interesting
topics that we could report on.
Impulse | 2/2014 | Page 3
The perfect silhouette
Germ-free plus feel-good factor
Modular try-on sizes for the perfect fit
Wash-resistant antimicrobial finish for protein fibres
Getting the cut right for
ladies‘ clothes in general
and sheath dresses in particular is rightly regarded as the ultimate
challenge among
manufacturers
of ladies‘ outerwear: The
bust, waist
and
hip
measurements vary
from one woman to another, as do the
body proportions. With twopiece outfits, this
kind of discrepancy
can be easily overcome
by combining garments
in different sizes. With a
dress, however, it is difficult
to cater for different body
proportions in a single garment. This is the challenge that has been taken on
by the Hohenstein Institute and the Hamburg-based
company Matteo Dosso,
experts in customised clothing, as
part of a ZIM research project. The
project partners have developed modular pieces for people to try on that
they are calling slip-on or sample sizes, for different parts of the body.
Ladies can try these garments on in
the shop and combine them to achieve the perfect fit.
The try-on garments are made as separate modules - here, for example, is one for the upper body.
“The separate try-on pieces
can be used to work out the
dimensions and modifications
required for factory production
of a customised dress.”
This paves the way for customised
ladies‘ wear to be efficiently produced
and marketed by factories. It is easier
on the customer‘s purse while at
the same time guaranteeing an
individually configured garment that
fits perfectly.
Angela Mahr-Erhardt
washed less frequently than textiles
made from other fibres, due to the
felting tendency of woollen fibres.
In the light of this, Mihaela
Szegedi‘s team and experts from
the Leibnitz Institute for Interactive
Materials (DWI) in Aachen have
developed an antimicrobial treatment
specifically for wool and other textiles
containing wool.
Many of the antimicrobial finishing
substances available on the
market today are very effective on
fabrics made of cotton, polyester,
polyamide and those kinds
of mixtures of fibres. They are
considerably less successful on
wool and fibre blends containing
wool.
And yet an antimicrobial
p r o t e c t i ve f i n i s h wo u l d b e
particularly desirable here, because
textiles containing wool are generally
„By combining the use
of different antimicrobial
substances and technologies,
we have achieved a
particularly wide range of
effectiveness against bacteria,
fungi and algae.”
FELT-FREE
This will be especially of interest
to manufacturers of high-quality
functional textiles containing
wool. There is also great potential
for classic business suits or ladies‘
suits made of wool or mixed fabrics
containing wool, as well as domestic
and furnishing textiles.
UNTREATED
[email protected]
 The range of models and possible
combinations cover most variations of
ladies‘ upper bodies.
Mihaela Szegedi
PICKLED
The Editorial Team
Woollen test fabric treated with silver
colloid and SA/TSA complex.
Rose-Marie Riedl
Woollen textiles are washed less frequently than those made of other fibres because of their
felting tendency. For that reason, an antimicrobial treatment can be very useful, for example
on a business suit made of wool.
[email protected]
[email protected]
The perfect fit for every target group
Diagnosis: Fit
Body dimensions and size charts at a glance
Digital catalogue helps with quality control
WORLD
RECORD!
Prof. Dr. Josef Kurz
celebrates
On 7 August, Prof. Dr. Josef Kurz,
Deputy Head of the Hohenstein
Institute, celebrated his 80th
birthday. He has worked at the
Hohenstein Institute for over
57 years. Areas in which this
internationally renowned scientist
has worked since joining the
company in 1957 include colour
measurement, textile care, ecology
and medical textiles.
A 3D-based process for analysing
the fit of ladies outerwear is the
result of a current research project
(AiF No. 17763N). The digital fit
catalogue provides companies
with a tool for analysing typical
fitting problems. Together with
the suggestions that are also
given in the digital catalogue for
adjusting the cut and/or altering
the materials, it will help them to
eliminate many faults at an early
stage of product development,
resulting in significant savings.
Experts at the Hohenstein Institute first use 3D scans to assess the fit of ladies‘ outerwear
visually.
The modifications that need to be made to the cut to solve particular fitting problems are
shown visually. This makes it easy to communicate the required changes, for example to
producers abroad.
The Department of Hygiene, Environment and Medicine can also
look forward to having about 650
m² of extra laboratory and office
space from spring 2015. This is
being created by the addition of
another floor to the William Küster Building that dates from 1957.
The existing building is being surrounded by a steel structure up to
11 m high, into which panels of
aerated concrete are inserted. In
this way, a complete new storey
is being added.
The data was used to derive upto-date body dimension statistics,
size charts and market share charts.
To supplement this data, experts at
the Hohenstein Institute have, over
recent years, built up statistically
reliable data for specific target groups
within the overall population.
However, to achieve a really good fit,
it is essential to have professional help
with adjusting the cut and sizing, and
[email protected]
For several months now, construction cranes have once again
been dominating the scene on
the institute‘s campus. From October 2015, about 170 staff are due
to move into their new places of
employment in the second phase of the Otto Mecheels Building.
Over 2500 m² of new office and
working space, laboratories and
storerooms are being created for
the Hohenstein Textile Testing Institute and in particular for the Textile Testing department.
In the representative size survey
SizeGERMANY between 2007and
2009, over 13,000 men, women
and children in Germany were
measured.
„The digital catalogue
includes the most commonly
occurring problems with
fitting, and suggested
solutions for them. This helps
to ensure that minimum
standards for the quality of fit
are met.”
Prof. Dr. Josef Kurz
THE JOYS
AND SORROWS
OF CASTLE LIFE
to carry out individual fit testing for
the different garment sizes, using
volunteers. All this requires a lot of
experience and expertise, because
analysing the fit is an extremely
complex process in which the model,
material, purpose and target users all
have to be taken into account.
Simone Morlock
[email protected]
„We have, for example,
measured women over 60,
and men and women with
a bigger build, and special
measurements have been
calculated for women‘s
corsetry. Measurements charts
for ladies‘ trousers are another
product of our work.”
Garment sizes are currently based
on chest circumference, but there
is no direct link between this
measurement and hip or waist
size. Body dimensions based on
hip circumference were analysed
specially with a view to designing
trousers.
It is not only this building work
that is bringing the town of Bönnigheim and the Hohenstein Institute closer together: countless homes and blocks of flats are being
built on the neighbouring „Castle
Field”, gradually filling in vacant
building land.
Even Google Maps has not kept
up with these rapid recent developments.
Special 3D studies of body shape
and posture also help manufacturers
optimise the fit of trousers. Feet,
hands and heads have also been
measured using the 3D scanners
at the Hohenstein Institute. The
resulting data will be the basis for
improving the fit of socks, gloves,
shoes, helmets and other headgear
in future.
All body dimension and size
charts can be ordered here:
Simone Morlock
[email protected]
We don‘t tell fairy-tales!
First aid for premature babies!
Artificial uterus provides sensory stimulation
The story of the skin sensory comfort mark
REUSABLE OP
TEXTILES
Greater comfort, less
environmental impact
A research project that is
currently being carried out in
partnership with the wfk could
help hospitals to save about 12.9
million euros a year: it involves
developing innovative reusable
operating theatre textiles which
are extremely comfortable to wear
and also have a longer service life
because a gentler process can be
used to clean them.
„In addition to the positive
economic benefits for the
healthcare industry and
the fact that this makes the
manufacturers of reusable
textiles more competitive, the
project also brings definite
ecological benefits.”
ONCE UPON A TIME, not too long
ago, there was a princess who tossed
and turned restlessly in her bed every
night: she would wake in the middle
of the night, soaked in sweat. Her
bed linen also felt stiff and scratchy.
Her search for the famous pea that
is known to rob members of royalty
of their sleep remained fruitless. So
the princess turned to her local fairy
godmother. However, all the good
fairy‘s magical skills failed to help
her client to enjoy her well-earned
beauty sleep. The princess gave vent
to her disappointment on various
evaluation forums and so discredited
the poor fairy that all she could do
was retrain as a wicked witch. And if
she hasn‘t died, then she is probably
still grieving for her former career
today. Ah, if only the stressed-out
fairy had asked the knights in shining
armour at the Hohenstein Institute
in the nearby castle for help sooner!
Textiles tested in this way can bear
the Hohenstein quality label, the
„Skin sensory comfort mark”. The
comfort mark provides information
about how comfortable the textile
feels on the skin, without it having
to be worn or used. This is especially
of interest to princes and princesses
who like to order textiles by mail
order or online.
So the stressed-out fairy and her
over-tired client could have obtained
a detailed analysis of the problem
from the Hohenstein experts, and
suggestions about how to resolve
it. Carrying out the tests for the
The experts in the Clothing Physiology department don‘t tell fairy-tales when it comes to
assessing the skin sensory properties of textiles.
skin sensory comfort mark would
have shown that the textile was
too stiff. That is why the bed linen
did not nestle snugly around the
princess‘s body. The wetting index
result was also poor, because sweat
was not being efficiently absorbed.
Furthermore, the bed linen was
not „breathable” and its thermal
insulation was inadequate. And
with the help of the „Skin sensory
comfort mark” quality label, the fairy
could have quite easily found some
bed-linen that was suitable for the
sensitve princess. Having summoned
it in a flash, she would no doubt have
continued her promising career and
made the princess „Queen of the
Land of Dreams”.
Jörg Fricke
[email protected]
www.hohenstein.com/
skinsensory-webinar14
And the MORAL
of the story with the
„Skin sensory comfort mark”: you‘ll never have a bad night‘s
sleep and your clothes will always feel
comfortable!
About 50,000 premature babies
are born every year in Germany alone.
Some of them need intensive medical
care in incubators for weeks or even
months. However, it has been known
for some time that these premature
babies miss the spatial confinement
and prenatal sensory stimuli of the
womb (uterus). This lack can have
significant consequences for these
babies later on: many of the children
go on to suffer from sensory or motor
deficiencies as they develop, which
have to be treated.
„ARTUS” can recreate the
environment and sensory
stimulation of a mother‘s
womb in the incubator.”
T h e t re n d t owa rd s u s i n g
disposable products in the
operating theatre is resulting in
about 3.2 kg of waste textiles
that need to be professionally
disposed of every day, for every
patient. That equates to an annual
mountain of waste of about 1200
kg for every hospital bed.
Under the Closed Cycle and
Waste Management Act (KrWG),
this figure must be considerably
reduced in future. Since 2012,
the Act has meant that, in order
to avoid waste, materials should
remain in the production cycle for
as long as possible.
Determining the water vapour permeability of textiles
There are various test methods
for determining water vapour
permeability. It is hard to compare
these, but we have put together the
main facts and the advantages and
disadvantages.
You can find a detailed comparison
of the two measuring methods here:
Silke Off
[email protected]
Dr. Bianca Wölfling
[email protected]
Mesuring criteria
Skin model measurement (Ret)
Cup methods
Suitable for all textiles

()
Depends on the cup method
Can be used in quality control


Measurements can be reproduce


LESS, because conditions are not standardised
Results from different laboratories can
be compared


LESS, because conditions are not standardised
Results are consistently represented



BETTER, because of defined test and ambient
conditions; measurements use the skin model

LOWER, because test and ambient conditions are
sometimes not defined and may vary; gravimetric
measurements;


Results are accurate and objective
Test results confirmed by wearing tests
Test conditions consistently defined


Can be used at the production site

HIGH installation costs

 HIGHER
 LOWER
 MORE COMPLEX
 SIMPLER
()
Depends on the TEXTILE
()
Depends on the cup method
Cost of testing
Complexity of test set-up
Testing time
Testing standards
DIN EN 31092/ISO 11092, ASTM F 1868-02
ARTUS helps with the development of premature babies
Diagram showing the ARTificial UteruS (ARTUS) with its acoustic
and motor actuators which generate sensory stimuli for premature babies
Thanks to modern medical technology, premature babies can survive from the 22nd
week of pregnancy.
ACOUSTIC ACTUATOR:
Mother’s heartbeat and voice
MOTOR ACTUATOR:
Air chamber system generates
gentle rocking movements
CROSS-SECTION
REMOVABLE PILLOW:
To alter the baby’s position
AIR CHAMBER SYSTEM
EXTERNAL CONTROL UNIT
Neonatologists, i.e. specialists in newborn and premature babies, are currently assessing the effectiveness of
ARTUS for tiny babies by observing it
in use. The aim is to improve the clinical well-being of the little patients.
ARTUS helps with the development of premature babies. Acoustic and motor actuators are
used to generate sensory stimuli for premature babies..
Prof. Dr. Dirk Höfer
[email protected]
No more electric shocks!
Skin model versus cup methodes
The „breathability” of a textile is
determined by its water vapour
permeability. The higher this is,
the more perspiration in the form
of vapour can be transported away
from the body. This makes clothing
or underwear more comfortable
to wear, because less sweat
accumulates on the wearer‘s body.
Until now, incubators have not been able to compensate for the lack of spatial confinement
and sensory stimuli provided by the mother‘s womb. This means that important therapy time
is lost, which can often lead to sensory and motor deficiencies requiring treatment during
the child‘s later development.
© Hohenstein Institute;Evgeny Atamanenko,Miri Photography/shutterstock.com
Acoustic stimuli like the mother‘s
heartbeat and voice are transmitted
ASTM E96 (min. 6 methods), ISO 15496,
BS 72009, JIS L 1099, ISO2528 and others
The electrostatic charges generated by people and the resulting discharges (Electrostatic Discharge or
ESD) represent a significant hazard
in many industries. People working
in areas where there is a risk of static electricity must wear protective clothing that conducts electricity and guarantees safe discharge.
The aim of a research project
run jointly by GERA-IDENT GmbH
and the Hohenstein Institute, together with HB Schutzbekleidung
GmbH, was to develop innovative
ESD clothing where the ESD functionality could be tested without contact and therefore far more efficiently.
The new procedure makes testing that the protective function of
FEELING GOOD
MEANS…
WEARING COMFORTABLE CLOTHES
Webinars by the Hohenstein e-Academy on skin
sensory functions
COMPRESSION TESTING
- Getting the pressure right! Tested compression (D/E)
WEAR AND SLEEPING COMFORT
- the Spacetex project – innovative and highly functional fabrics for humans in space and on earth (E)
clothing is still effective much faster
and more straightforward.
Modern RFID technology (radio
frequency identification) is used to
simplify the testing of fabrics, especially after garments have been cleaned in commercial laundries. Sensory threads are attached to the garment and connected via electrodes to
an RFID UHF sensor module. When
a sufficiently strong electromagnetic
field is generated by the UHF reader,
this module measures the resistance
value. The incoming values are read
by the UHF reader and sent to a specially developed software program.
HYGIENE, ENVIRONMENT &
MEDICINE
- How sustainable are textiles in terms of biodegradability? (D/E)
COMPARATIVE TESTING
- Detergents & laundering webinar (E)
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE
EQUIPMENT
- Better fit and more wearing comfort for helmets (E)
FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES
- Nanotechnology, human health and the environment (E)
- Sound Science Webinar (E)
FIT AND WORKMANSHIP
- Good fitting pays for itself! „Made in Hohenstein” fit testing (D/E)
„In developing the sensor module, we attached great importance to low maintenance and
reusability.”
This was achieved by making a
sensor module which has no internal
voltage source and gets all its energy from the electromagnetic field of
the UHF reader.
By establishing the correlation
between the ESD function of the textile and the measurements provided
by the sensor module, the software
program delivers a pass or fail verdict.
Only those parts that are declared
How do products feel on the skin?
How can products be improved
accordingly? The free webinars
from the Hohenstein e-Academy
on 12 February 2015 will answer
these and many other questions.
At 13.00 hrs: (German) and 16.00
hrs (English), Dr. Jan Beringer and
Silke Off will be introducing the
skin sensory tests that are available and the „Skin sensory comfort
mark” quality label. This will be
especially useful for online and
mail-order retailers. The skin sensory mark gives customers an objective assessment of how comfortable products are to wear without
them having to feel them or try
them on. This is a good way of reducing complaints about the feel
of textiles and their skin sensory
functions.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Contactless testing of the ESD function of clothing
Schloss Hohenstein is very picturesque - but „We don‘t tell fairy-tales”.
Numerous tests have been carried out in
realistic conditions in the climate-controlled chamber to study the interaction
between body, climate and clothing.
to the premature baby, together with
mechanical sensations like the gentle
rocking experienced in the mother‘s
body.
With „ARTUS”, the ARTificial
UteruS, experts at the Hohenstein
Institute in Bönnigheim have
developed the world‘s first artificial
uterus, which helps premature
babies to develop by providing
sensory stimulation.
„We carry out skin sensory
and thermophysiological tests
that can be used to provide an
objective assessment of the
comfort of textiles worn next
to the skin.”
If the sensory threads and RFID modules are integrated in the clothing, then tests can be carried out in the commercial laundry to ensure that the necessary ESD effect is still sufficient.
to have limited functionality are subjected to a conventional one-off test,
which greatly reduces the cost of testing. This means that the contactless
RFID UHF technology can help reduce the costs connected with quality
management documentation by making functionality testing significant-
ly faster. It also enables the test to
be carried out on the complete batch
being processed, resulting in increased product safety.
OEKO-TEX®
- Annual update to the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 webinar
- Webinar on the OEKO-TEX® buying guide (D)
- STeP by OEKO-TEX® Webinar (D)
- STeP by OEKO-TEX® Webinar – Focus on Chemical Management (E)
Britta Gortan
[email protected]
Markus Beeh
[email protected]
www.hohenstein.com/
skinsensory-webinar14
To say thank you to Dr. Alexander Gerst, on his return from
the International Space Station we presented him with a
compilation of songs chosen by
participants in the competition
„Songs for Alex”. We would like
to thank you for all your messages, as would „our man in
space”, who was very pleased
with the excellent mixture of
top hits and less well-known
musical compositions!
You‘ll find the play list on
Soundcloud or Spotify.
www.hohenstein.de/
songs-for-alex
Design Competition „Spacetex 2030“
Verifiable protection for allergy-sufferers
Station-wear for astronauts on the Mars mission
The new „House dust and dust mite barrier” quality label
the interaction of body, clothing and
climate in zero gravity. This data
will later be used to optimise textile
materials in the light of the special
conditions of weightlessness, but
also for extreme climatic conditions
on Earth.
Students entering the „Spacetex
2030 competition have to use these
high-tech materials to design highly
functional station wear for the
astronauts. This will be the everyday
clothing for the astronauts inside the
space ship or Mars station. Unlike
the space suits that are worn during
take-off, landing and space walks,
station wear does not have to serve
any particular protective purpose
but above all has to take account
of functional aspects. The special
What particular kinds of
functionality does clothing for
astronauts have to offer, especially
in the light of long-term missions?
This is the question to be answered
by students in the „Spacetex 2030”
design competition, by producing
creative and practical designs.
The competition is based on the
current „Spacetex” research project.
The aim of this is to obtain data about
demands of spending months in
weightlessness during the flight or
in low gravity conditions on Mars
have to be taken into account in
the design and manufacture of
the garments. The different tasks
performed by the astronauts, such
as their daily exercise programme
or maintenance work, also have to
considered by the students entering
the competition. They must also
remember the limitations on cleaning
and caring for the clothes that will
result from the lack of gravity and
resources.
Rose-Marie Riedl
[email protected]
Students entering the „Spacetex 2030” competition have to use these high-tech materials
to design highly functional station wear for the astronauts.
www.spacetex-project.de
Special mattresses and bed covers
called encasings are supposed to
ensure that people who are allergic to house dust get a good night‘s
sleep. Accredited laboratory tests
show how well these work as a barrier between dust mite excrement
and human respiratory passages.
when they are selecting a medicallytested mattress or bed cover. Technically advanced hotels can also benefit by offering properly marked bed-linen for the well-being of their guests.
Prof. Dr. Dirk Höfer
[email protected]
„We are one of the few laboratories in the world that is
able to carry out tests with living dust mites and their allergy-inducing excrement.”
In the test, all components of the
encasing, that is to say the textile surface, the edge seams and the zip fastener, are covered with dust mite excrement and the movements of someone sleeping on it for eight hours are
simulated. The volume of allergens
from the dust mite excrement that
passes through the textile, seams or
zip of the encasing is measured. This
allows exact information to be obtained for the first time about whether
Special encasings can be used to ensure that sufferers from dust mite allergies enjoy a comfortable night‘s sleep. They form a barrier between the dust mite excrement and the sleeper‘s respiratory passageways.
the critical level of two micrograms of
allergen is exceeded during the night,
thereby posing a risk for allergy-sufferers. This provides allergy-sufferers
with a reliable aid to decision-making
„If this sensitisation threshold is not passed, then products can be
endorsed with the „House dust and dust mite barrier“ quality label.”
The excrement from house dust mites can
trigger allergies.
We’re going places:
Passive climatisation thanks to optimised car seats
CHRISTMAS
2014
Sweet greetings from
around the world
This year once again we want
to see you through the Advent
period and up to New Year with a
special promotion. Together with
our branch offices abroad, we
have put together some „Sweet
greetings from around the world”
for you. Every day in our Advent
calendar you will find a recipe
for a pastry, dessert or drink that
is served on festive occasions in
one of the countries where we
are represented. In addition to
the list of ingredients and method,
you will also find an explanation
of the tradition behind the
recipe – or a personal story that
makes it important for one of
our international colleagues. All
the recipes will also be available
from mid-December as a PDF file.
Simply sign up on our website. We
hope you have a lot of fun baking
and cooking our recipes!
The government hopes that by
2020 there will be a million electric cars on Germany‘s roads. However, to make electric vehicles attractive to large parts of the population, one of the aspects that
needs to be improved is their range. The key to this is intelligent
energy management, which includes not only the drive technology
and construction of the vehicle but
also „energy guzzlers” such as the
air conditioning and interior heating systems. In electric cars, both
of these have to operate from the
power supply, at the expense of the
vehicle‘s range.
It is in this context that scientists
from the Hohenstein Institute, the
FILK (Franches Montagnes) and IHD
(Dresden) are investigating which factors need to be taken into considera-
tion in the design of thermally optimised car seats. The aims of the project (IGF No. 18080 18080 BG) are to
work out the theoretical principles of
heat transport in seat covers, create
a model of the processes involved in
heat transfer and implement it in the
design of improved seating.
„We are concentrating on
using appropriate materials and combining them intelligently to provide a certain amount of passive climate control. We are not looking
at „active” solutions such as
heating.”
In the first phase of the projects,
the scientists are looking at what effects the human body and the heat it
Rose-Marie Riedl
[email protected]
www.hohenstein.de/
christmas2014
Breaches of the „cords standard” cause product recalls for children‘s clothing
If escalators and playgrounds
are not to become dangerous hazards for small children, clothing
must be designed to be safe. The
DIN EN 14682 standard, „Safety
of children‘s clothing - cords and
drawstrings in children‘s clothing”
contains recommendations about
the design of garments for children up to the age of 14.
An ongoing project is providing the expertise for creating vehicle seat covers where the design and choice of materials produce passive climate control effects.
emits have on complex upholstery fabrics. Firstly, they are considering different seat covers using standard and
functional textiles. Secondly, they are
basing their work on different usage
scenarios. The constant factor is the
„feel-good temperature” which, with
textile surfaces, is 23ºC. Various different measuring methods can be used
to derive quantitative load factors to
describe the material or the combination of materials and their heat conduction properties in dry and moist
conditions.
These reference values serve as
the basis for simulating the processes involved in heat transfer.
Dr. Bianca Wölfling
Heat transport in car seats is being investigated in three different scenarios.
Keep away from cords and drawstrings!
„The simulations can be used
to calculate the combinations
of materials and structural designs which would have the
most positive effect on both
heating and cooling behaviour.”
This knowledge will help small and
medium-sized automotive suppliers
in particular to secure a competitive advantage for themselves in future by increasing comfort levels, saving energy and reducing development costs.
[email protected]
There is a shockingly high number of product recalls where the risk
of strangulation or serious injury is
given as the reason for product complaints on the relevant European Union information website.
Unfortunately, in the past there
have indeed been deaths and serious
injuries caused by unsuitable fastenings on children‘s clothing.
This fact is not really reflected
in the level of public debate about
the safety of textiles. This focuses
far more on possible contamination
with harmful substances. The majority of textiles on the market now
go through testing for harmful substances, for example under the OEKOTEX® Standard 100. Consequently,
complaints in this regard have greatly reduced. Product recalls due to the
„cord standard” can be avoided by having professional testing carried out
before production starts.
Christiane Schulze
[email protected]
http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/safety/rapex/alerts
In principle, the ends of drawstrings/cords on children‘s clothes should not have any kind of trim or knots. Safe alternatives include enclosed or heat-sealed cord ends, and zips must not
be longer than 75 mm.
REVISED STANDARD
THAT‘S NEW!
Protective clothing for firefighters (DIN EN 469:2014)
High-visibility warning clothing (DIN EN 20471)
In recent years, the personal
protective equipment (PPE) sector
has particularly benefited from
technical innovations. Optimised
• A defined procedure has been
specified for testing overlapping.
• The moisture barrier is limited to 10
cm on jackets & 15 cm on trousers.
• Where retroreflective material is
applied, it must cover a minimum
area of 0.13 m²; for fluorescent
material, the minimum area is
0.2 m².
• Materials testing is carried out after
at least 5 wash cycles.
materials, processing techniques and
measuring methods are reflected in
the revised DIN EN 469 standard,
„Protective clothing for firefighters”.
The following are the main aspects
that have changed:
Last year, DIN EN 471: 2008-03 turned into EN ISO 20471: 2013-09. There
have been some fundamental changes: the new norm does away with the
previous distinction between professional and private use. It applies across
the board to all hazardous situations where there is a risk of not being seen.
• Testing for damage to subsequent
impregnation: the customer specifies after
how many wash cycles the garment must
be re-impregnated. The surface wetting
and resistance to penetration by liquid
chemicals must be tested again after
impregnation.
• A maximum value for water vapour
resistance has been reintroduced: 45 m²
Pa/W at Level 1.
• Ergonomic requirements have been
deleted.
• Appendix E has been replaced by
information about the ISO 13506 standard.
The new standard therefore applies exclusively to warning clothing for
high-risk situations and continues to comprise clothing classes 1, 2 and 3.
The norm also gives numerous requirements for the design of clothing
and testing procedures and we have included all this for you on our website.
It must especially be noted that the surface area and position of logos
and emblems must be given when providing a sample for testing, because
their total area is deducted from the visible surface area. In the worst
case, garments could lose their certification if anything is added to them
at a later date.
In view of the fact that the validity of certificates has been limited
to five years since 2010, warning clothing that is certified under EN-471
may continue to be sold until the certification expires but must then be
re-certificated on the basis of the standard that applies at the time.
In future the number and date of the
standard, i.e. EN 469:2014, will be
shown on the protective clothing.
The accompanying pictogram will
also contain information about the
level of heat protection, X1 or X2
(combined protection against flames
and heat radiation) up to which the
clothing has been certified.
[email protected]
PROJECT FINANCING
PUBLISHING INFORMATION
We thank the following institutions for providing financial support for research work:
Publisher: Hohenstein Laboratories GmbH & Co. KG
Hohenstein Institut für Textilinnovation GmbH
Hohenstein Academy e.V.
Hohenstein Textile Testing Institute GmbH & Co. KG
Schloss Hohenstein
Schlosssteige 1
74357 Bönnigheim GERMANY
ISSN 2191-6764
· Forschungskuratorium Textil e.V.
· Arbeitsgemeinschaft industrieller Forschungsvereinigungen ‘Otto von Guericke’ e.V. (AiF)
· AiF Projekt GmbH
· German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology (BMWi)
· German Federal Ministry for Education and Research (BMBF) with affiliated project sponsors
· Deutsche Bundesstiftung Umwelt (DBU)
The stated AiF/IGF projects by the research association Forschungskuratorium Textil e.V.,
Reinhardtstraße 12 - 14, 10117 Berlin/Germany, were financed through the AiF within
the framework of the programme for promotion of cooperative industrial research (IGF)
by the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology based on a resolution by
the German Bundestag.
Editorial: Rose-Marie Riedl
Helmut Müller
Department Marketing and Communication
Phone +49 7143 271-723
Fax +49 7143 271-721
Email [email protected]
Internet www.hohenstein.de
Research projects presented in this edition 2/2014:
Design: Prepress Processing · Manuela Kurz · Gemmrigheim
Printing: ProWachter GmbH · Bönnigheim, Germany
· and other providers of funds
The perfect silhouette
Diagnosis: Fit
In the business of hygiene Reusable OP textiles
Artificial Uterus
We‘re going places
ZIM-Nr. KF2136726CJ2
AiF-Nr. 17763N
AiF-Nr. 17150N
AiF-Nr. 17976N
ZIM-Nr. KF2136730KJ3
IGF-Nr. 18080 BG
page 2
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
Images ©ESA/NASA; ©Google maps; ©Hohenstein Institute; ©OEKO-TEX®; ©Roscosmos/Oleg Artemjev; ©TU-Dresden, ©www.shutterstock.com: AlessandroZocc; andrea_
petrlik;Jason Stitt; Juan Gaertner; Kzenon; Marilyn Volan; Matthew Coleai Matusciac
Alexandru; moniks3steps, Nejron_Photo; picsfivepotowizard; servickuz; stefanolunardi; Warren Goldswain. ©www.Fotolia.com: beerkoff; Tobilander. ©www.iStockphoto.
com: axstokes; SerJoe.
BRO_0024_HOH_Impulse_EN_02_2014

A cut above the rest - Hohenstein Institute

Transkript

Benzer belgeler

Thermal insulation and breathability in footwear

Willy Bogner honoured for his lifetime achievement

iandia