İstanbul - Lonely Planet

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
İstanbul
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Virginia Maxwell
Contents
Plan
PlanYour
YourTrip
Trip page 1
4
Welcome to İstanbul.......4
If You Like.......................18
Eating.......................... 26
İstanbul’s Top 10.............6
Month by Month............ 21
What's New.................... 13
With Kids....................... 23
Drinking &
Nightlife ......................31
Need to Know................ 14
Like a Local................... 24
Top Itineraries............... 16
For Free......................... 25
Explore İstanbul Neighbourhoods at a
Glance........................... 42
Sultanahmet &
Around........................... 44
Bazaar District............. 83
Hamams & Spas........ 38
40
Western Districts........102
Üsküdar........................146
Beyoğlu........................ 113
Ferry Trips from
İstanbul....................... 150
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy &
Kuruçeşme..................139
Understand İstanbul
İstanbul Today............. 176
Shopping..................... 34
175
History..........................178
Architecture.................186
Survival Guide 197
Transport..................... 198
Language.................... 208
Directory A–Z............. 203
Index............................. 219
İstanbul Maps Sleeping......................165
228
İstanbul on Page &
Screen..........................192
IZZET KERIBAR ©
GEORGE TSAFOS/GETTY IMAGES ©
GEORGE TSAFOS/GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) Grand Bazaar
p85 Colourful lamps
for sale
(above) Beyoğlu p113
Traditional meyhane
(Turkish tavern)
(right) Aya Sofya p46
Colourful decoration
inside
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy
& Kuruçeşme
p139
Western
Districts
p102
Beyoğlu
p113
Üsküdar
p146
Bazaar
District
p83
Sultanahmet
& Around
p44
IZZET KERIBAR/GETTY IMAGES ©
40
Explore
İstanbul
Neighbourhoods at
a Glance. . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Beyoğlu . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Ferry Trips
from İstanbul . . . . . . 150
Sultanahmet &
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
The Bosphorus. . . . . . . . . . . 151
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
The Golden Horn . . . . . . . . . 159
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 131
Princes’ Islands . . . . . . . . . . 162
Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 79
Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy
& Kuruçeşme. . . . . . . 139
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Bazaar District. . . . . . 83
Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 97
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 144
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Üsküdar. . . . . . . . . . . 146
Western Districts. . . 102
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Eating & Drinking. . . . . . . . . 110
Eating & Drinking. . . . . . . . . 149
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . 165
41
İSTANBUL’S
TOP SIGHTS
Aya Sofya. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Aya Sofya........................... 46
Topkapı Palace. . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Topkapı Palace...................53
Blue Mosque. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Istanbul Archaeology
Museums. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Basilica Cistern . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Grand Bazaar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Süleymaniye Mosque . . . . . . 88
Spice Bazaar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Kariye Museum
(Chora Church) . . . . . . . . . . 104
İstiklal Caddesi. . . . . . . . . . . 115
İstanbul Modern. . . . . . . . . . 116
Dolmabahçe Palace. . . . . . . 141
Blue Mosque..................... 64
Istanbul Archaeology
Museums........................... 66
Basilica Cistern................. 68
Grand Bazaar.....................85
Süleymaniye Mosque....... 88
Spice Bazaar..................... 90
Karİye Museum
(Chora Church)................104
Beylerbeyi Palace. . . . . . . . . 152
İstiklal Caddesi..................115
Hıdiv Kasrı. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
İstanbul Modern................116
Rahmi M Koç Museum . . . . 159
Dolmabahçe Palace..........141
228
İstanbul
Maps
Map Legend
Sights
Beach
Buddhist
Castle
Christian
Hindu
Islamic
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery
Ruin
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo
Other Sight
Eating
Sports & Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Canoeing/Kayaking
Skiing
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Sports &
Activities
Information
Post Office
Tourist Information
Transport
Sleeping
Airport
Border Crossing
Bus
Cable Car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Monorail
Parking
S-Bahn
Taxi
Train/Railway
Tram
Tube Station
U-Bahn
Underground
Train Station
Camping
Other Transport
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Sleeping
Routes
Tollway
Geographic
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Hydrography
River/Creek
Intermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/
Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Tunnel
Pedestrian
Overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour
Detour
Path
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Areas
Beach/Desert
Cemetery
(Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
Top Sight
(Building)
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Musevı
1
Mezarlığı
1
1
1
1
Go
1
1
ç)
1
1
1
1
1
"
Ð
4
"
Ð
1
1
1
1
1
ELMADAĞ
"
Ð
6
MEYDANı
0
0
0
Sultanahmet
00
0
Park
CAĞALOĞLU
"
Ð
5
ÇUKURCUMA
KARAKÖY
Maçka
Park
NIŞANTAŞı
HARBIYE
TARLABAŞI
1
1
1
BOZKURT
BEYOĞLU
1
1
1
Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi)
KADIRGA
1
"
Ð
3
1
GALATA
1
00
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0000
KUMKAPI
LALELİ
1
Feriköy
1
1
1
1
1
Mezarlığı
1
1
1
KURTULUŞ
1
1
1
1
1
PİYALEPAŞA
OKMEYDANI
1
TAHTAKALE
Saraçhane 1
Park
SÜLEYMANİYE
00
"
Ð
8
1
1
1
i
al
(H
AKSARAY
FATıH
FENER
HIZIR ÇAVUŞ
BALAT
HALICIOĞLU
HASKÖY
1
1
rn
Ho
9 Kariye Museum (p104)
8 Üsküdar (p146)
7 Western Districts (p102)
6 Beşiktaş, Ortaköy &
Kuruçeşme (p139)
5 Beyoğlu – Southwest (p113)
4 Beyoğlu – Northeast (p113)
3 Bazaar District (p83)
2 Sultanahmet & Around –
South (p44)
1 Sultanahmet & Around –
North (p44)
MAP INDEX
1
1
1
en
ld
"
Ð
2
)
e
# 00
Bo
s
p
h
orus
Stra
it
(
B
oğa
ziç
i
1
"
Ð
7
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 mile
1
1
SEİMİYE1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Karaca
1
Ahmet
1
1
1
2 km
1
1
1
1
1
1
HACİ HESNA
HATUN
ORTAKÖY
1
1
KEFÇEDEDE
İHSANİYE
SALACAK
ÜSKÜDAR
BEŞİKTAŞ
YİLDİZ
Yıldız
Park
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
229
2 30
B
A
C
e
# 00
D
200 m
0.1 miles
Bosphorus Excursion Ferry
Bosphorus
ç)
(Hali
(Boğaziçi)
f
#Ferries to Üsküdar
orn
H
n
e
f
#Ferries to Kadıköy
1
G o ld
¤
#Res
ad
Eminönü
Sarayburnu
f
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i ye
Ca
æ
#
d
)
a lı K ö ş k
lu
o
ü Ca d
Seraglio Point
ahil Y
Kennedy Cad (S
(Sarayburnu)
SİRKECİ
Ha
#
ú
mi
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13
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ad
¤
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ï Sirkeci
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#
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17 ü
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k
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10 #
Aşi ò
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Children's
i Cad
#
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#
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6
Gülhane
Mosque E
bu #
An
Park
ú
#
ad
25 ÿ
ss 14
uu
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İstanbul
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V
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19 20
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Ø
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#
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#22
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#
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# 18
#
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 SULTANAHMET & AROUND - NORTH
f
#
e Sk
¤
#
d
han
A
Ca
et
Sultanahmet
4
â
#
Cistern
B
C
D
æ Top Sights
(p000)
(p46) ú Eating
(p000)
(p76) Ø Sports & Activities (p000)
(p82)
Aya Sofya ....................... B4
Caferağa Medresesi
18 Aya İrini ..........................C4
Basilica Cistern ............. B4
Lokanta & Çay
19 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3
İstanbul Archaeology
Bahçesi.............. (see 24)
9 Cihannüma .................... B4 ÿ Sleeping
Museums .................... C3
(p000)
(p168)
Topkapı Palace.............. C3
10 Fasuli Lokantaları.......... A2
20 Agora Life Hotel ............ A3
Hafız Mustafa ......(see 10)
And Hotel ................(see 9)
æ Sights
(p000)
(p69)
11 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2
21 Ayasofya Konakları.......C4
1 Alay Köşkü ..................... B3
12 Karakol Restaurant.......C4
22 Cheers Hostel................ B4
2 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4
13 Konyalı Lokantası.......... A2
23 Neorion Hotel ................ B2
3 Fountain of Sultan
Matbah ................. (see 24) 24 Ottoman Hotel
Ahmet III...................... C4
14 Paşazade........................ B3
Imperial ....................... B4
4 Gülhane Park................. B3
15 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4
25 Sirkeci Konak................. B3
5 Imperial Gate................. C4
6 İstanbul Museum of
û Drinking & Nightlife
Nightlife(p000)
(p80)
the History of
16 Kybele Cafe.................... B4
Science &
17 Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi... D2
Technology in
Islam ............................ B2 ý Entertainment
(p000)
(p80)
7 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4
Hocapaşa Culture
8 Sublime Porte................ B3
Centre..................(see 11)
2 31
SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH Map on p232
æ Top Sights
(p64)
Blue Mosque ............................................. D4
31 Cocoon.......................................................D5
32 Galeri Kayseri .............................................B1
 SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH
SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH
33 Iznik Classics & Tiles................................. E4
æ Sights
(p69) 34 Jennifer's Hamam..................................... E5
1 Aya Sofya Tombs ...................................... F2
35 Khaftan ...................................................... C5
2 Great Palace Mosaic Museum..................E5
36 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery.......................D5
3 Hippodrome...............................................C3
37 Tulu ............................................................B4
4 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain ........................D2
38 Yilmaz Ipekçilik..........................................H4
5 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop)................D2
6 Little Aya Sofya..........................................A6 Ø Sports & Activities
(p81)
7 Marmara University Republican
39 Ambassador Spa....................................... D1
Museum ..................................................B4 40 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı........... F2
8 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts...........C3
41 İstanbul Walks ........................................... C5
9 Nakkaş........................................................C5
42 Les Arts Turcs ........................................... D1
10 Obelisk of Theodosius...............................C4
Müzenin Kahvesi ................................(see 8)
11 Rough-Stone Obelisk ................................C4
43 Urban Adventures..................................... D1
12 Sokollu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque.......A4
(p168)
13 Sphendone.................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping
14 Spiral Column ............................................C4
44 Acra Hotel.................................................. F5
15 Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I............................D3
45 Bahaus Hostel ........................................... F4
46 Dersaadet Hotel ........................................D6
ú Eating
(p76)
47 Emine Sultan Hotel ...................................D6
16 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı ....................................... F6
48 Erten Konak............................................... E6
17 Balıkçı Sabahattin .....................................G5
49 Grand Peninsula........................................G4
18 Çiğdem Pastanesi ..................................... B1
50 Hanedan Hotel ..........................................G3
19 Cooking Alaturka....................................... F5
51 Hotel Alp ...................................................G3
20 Hafız Mustafa.............................................D2
52 Hotel Empress Zoe ...................................G3
21 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu ...... C1
53 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha ................................B4
22 Teras Restaurant...................................... H5
Hotel Nomade ..................................(see 26)
54 Hotel Peninsula .........................................G3
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p79)
55 Hotel Şebnem............................................G3
23 Cafe Meşale ...............................................E4
56 Hotel Uyan İstanbul .................................. F3
24 Denizen Coffee ..........................................B4
57 Marmara Guesthouse...............................G3
25 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi ............................E3
58 Metropolis Hostel......................................G4
26 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar....................... D1
59 Motif Apartments......................................G3
27 Yeni Marmara ............................................C6
60 Sarı Konak Hotel ....................................... F5
28 Yeşil Ev ....................................................... F3
61 Sultans Royal Hotel...................................C6
62 Tan Hotel ....................................................C1
þ Shopping
(p80)
29 Arasta Bazaar ............................................E4
30 Cankurtaran Produce Market ..................C5
2 32
Key on p231
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1
Galata Bridge
(Galata Köprüsü)
32 Lale Bahçesi......................... B3
33 Pandeli...................................E2
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#
f
#
f Turyol
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2
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33
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æ
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49 Sevan Bıçakçı........................E5
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35
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2 36
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238
BEYOĞLU - NORTHEAST Map on p236
BEYOĞLU NORTHEAST  
æ Top Sights
(p115)
İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5
41 Dogzstar ...................................................... C5
42 Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi............................ B5
43 Indigo ........................................................... B6
æ Sights
(p117) 44 Jolly Joker ................................................... C5
1 Akbank Art Centre......................................D4
45 Kiki................................................................ E5
2 ARTER ..........................................................B7
46 Litera ............................................................B6
3 Atatürk Cultural Centre .............................F4
47 Manda Batmaz............................................ B6
4 Atatürk Library............................................G2
Mikla................................................... (see 76)
5 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5
48 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6
6 Balık Pazarı ..................................................B5
49 Münferit .......................................................C6
NuTeras ..............................................(see 12)
7 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................B5
8 Firuz Ağa Camii ...........................................D6
50 Off Pera........................................................ A6
9 Galatasaray Lycée ......................................C6
51 Perla Kallâvi Nargile Cafe..........................B6
10 Galerı Apel....................................................C6
52 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5
11 Galerı Nev ...................................................B6
53 Urban ........................................................... C5
12 Galerist.........................................................A6
54 White Mill......................................................E7
13 Pera Museum ..............................................A6
14 Pera Palace Hotel .......................................A7 ý Entertainment
(p135)
15 SALT Beyoğlu..............................................B6
55 Garajistanbul............................................... B6
16 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3
56 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5
57 Toprak.......................................................... D5
ú Eating
(p124)
17 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ...............................A7 þ Shopping
(p136)
18 Brasserie La Brise.......................................A7
58 A La Turca ................................................... D5
19 Changa ......................................................... E5
59 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4
20 Çokçok .........................................................A6
60 Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü ................D4
21 Datlı Maya ....................................................D6
61 Denizler Kitabevi......................................... B7
22 Demeti.......................................................... E7
62 İstanbul Kitapçısı........................................ B6
23 Enstitü ..........................................................A6
63 La Cave Wine Shop ....................................D6
24 Feraye...........................................................C5
64 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama........................D6
25 Gani Gani Şark Sofras ................................D5
65 Mariposa.......................................................E7
26 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4
66 Mephisto...................................................... C5
27 Jash...............................................................F6
67 Pandora .......................................................D4
28 Kafe Ara........................................................B6
Paşabahçe......................................... (see 73)
29 Kallavi ...........................................................D4
68 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5
30 Kitchenette ..................................................E4
69 Reşat Balık Market .................................... B5
31 Medı Şark Sofrası........................................D5
70 Robinson Crusoe........................................ B6
32 Meze by Lemon Tree..................................A7
71 Sütte Şarküteri .......................................... B5
33 Midpoint .......................................................B6
72 Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını ..................... B5
Mikla ...................................................(see 76)
73 Tezgah Alley................................................ B7
34 Saray Muhallebicisi.....................................C5
Üç Yıldız Şekerleme .......................... (see 71)
Zencefil...............................................(see 35)
35 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 Ø Sports & Activities
(p138)
74 Ağa Hamamı ............................................... D5
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p131)
Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic
360....................................................... (see 11)
Monument) .....................................(see 16)
36 5 Kat..............................................................E6
Istanbul Culinary Institute............... (see 23)
37 Araf ...............................................................C4
38 Bigudi Cafe ..................................................D4 ÿ Sleeping
(p171)
39 Büyük Londra Oteli Bar..............................A6
75 Chambers of the Boheme......................... D5
Cafe Susam .......................................(see 22)
76 Marmara Pera............................................. A6
40 Club 17..........................................................D4
Pera Palace Hotel..............................(see 14)
2 39
BEYOĞLU - SOUTHWEST Map on p240
æ Top Sights
(p116)
İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3
33 Cafe Gündoğdu...........................................C4
34 Le Fumoir .................................................... D3
 BEYOĞLU SOUTHWEST 
35 Leb-i Derya .................................................. D2
æ Sights
(p117) 36 Leb-i Derya Richmond...............................D2
1 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4
37 Mavra ........................................................... D3
2 Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii....A4
38 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3
3 Botter House ...............................................C2
39 Smyrna ......................................................... F1
4 Christ Church ..............................................D3
40 Tophane Nargile Cafes ...............................F3
5 Depo .............................................................E3
41 Waterfront Çay Bahçesis ..........................H2
6 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2
42 X Bar............................................................. B2
7 Galata Tower ...............................................C4
8 Jewish Museum of Turkey.........................C5 ý Entertainment
(p135)
9 Kasa Galeri...................................................C4
43 Babylon........................................................ C2
10 Museum of Innocence.................................E1
Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 6)
11 Patisserie Lebon .........................................C2
44 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4
12 SALT Galata.................................................C4
Salon .................................................. (see 42)
13 Schneidertempel Art Center.....................C4
þ Shopping
(p136)
ú Eating
(p124) 45 Artrium.........................................................C2
14 Antiochia......................................................C2
46 Arzu Kaprol ................................................. C3
15 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1
47 Bahar Korçan.............................................. C3
Ca' d'Oro .............................................(see 12) 48 Berrin Akyüz.................................................G1
16 Fasuli Lokantaları........................................ F3
49 Dear East ..................................................... D3
17 Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı ...........................C3
50 Hammam.....................................................C4
18 Galata House...............................................C4
51 İroni ..............................................................C4
19 Galata Konak Patisserie Cafe....................C4
52 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop.........................F3
20 Güney Restaurant.......................................C3
53 Lâl ................................................................. C4
21 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2
54 Lale Plak.......................................................C2
22 İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant........... F3
55 Selda Okutan .............................................. E4
23 Journey .........................................................F1
56 SIR ................................................................D2
24 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5
25 Karaköy Lokantası......................................E4 ÿ Sleeping
(p171)
26 Kiva Han .......................................................C3
Anemon Galata................................. (see 38)
27 Lokanta Maya..............................................E4
57 Ansen Suites ............................................... C2
28 Namlı ............................................................D5
58 Beş Oda .......................................................D2
29 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2
59 Galateia Residence..................................... D2
30 The House Café...........................................C2
60 Manzara Istanbul........................................ C3
61 Serdar-ı Ekrem 59 ...................................... D2
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p131)
62 TomTom Suites...........................................D1
31 Atölye Kuledıbı ............................................C4
63 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2
32 Baylo.............................................................C2
64 World House Hostel ................................... C3
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1
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æ Top
Sights
Sights
(p000)
(p141) ú Eating
(p000)
(p143)
1 Çırağan
Dolmabahçe
Palace
Palace....................................A5
............................................D4
8
7 Banyan..........................................................F3
2 Dolmabahçe Palace....................................A5
House Cafe...........................................(see 8)
7)
æ Sights
3 Hatice Sultan Yalı........................................G2
(p142)
9
8 Kitchenette...................................................F3
41 Çırağan
Naval Museum
Palace ............................................D4
............................................B5
10
9 Vogue ........................................................... A4
2
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OrtaköySultan
Mosque
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.........................................G3
Zuma ...................................................
...................................................(see
(see 18)
17)
6
3 Naval
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of Barbarossa...................................C4
............................................B5
4
7 Yıldız
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Park
Mosque
....................................................D2
.........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p000)
(p144)
5 Tomb of Barbarossa...................................C4
Anjelique .............................................
.............................................(see
(see 18)
17)
6 Yıldız Park ....................................................D2
10
11 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel.............. D4
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13 Sortie ............................................................ H1
12
14
13 Supperclub ................................................. G2
(p000)
(p145)
Bosphorus Tours................................
Tours.................................(see
(see 4)
5)
Four Seasons Istanbul at the
Bosphorus .......................................(see
....................................... (see 16)
17)
ý Entertainment
(p000)
(p144)
14
15 İstanbul Jazz Center................................... F3 ÿ Sleeping
(p000)
(p173)
16
17 Four Seasons Istanbul at the
þ Shopping
(p000)
(p145)
Bosphorus ................................................D4
16
15 Haremlique ................................................. B4
House Hotel..........................................(see
Hotel......................................... (see 8)
7)
18
17 Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel................. F3
 BEŞIKTAŞ ORTAKÖY
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æ Sights
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3 Fethiye Museum ........................................ C4 1
1 Church of St Mary of the Mongols........... D4
4 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) ............. B3
2 Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars ...... D3
5 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı......................... A4
3 Fethiye Museum ........................................ C4
6 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ......................... A4
4 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı......................... A4
7 Palace of Constantine
5 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ......................... A4
Porphyrogenitus ..................................... B2 1
6 Palace of Constantine
8 Patriarchal Church of St George ............. D3 1
Porphyrogenitus..................................... B2
9 Sultan Selim Mosque ................................D4
7 Patriarchal Church of St George ............. D3 21
8 Sultan Selim Mosque ................................D4
ú Eating
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10 Asitane ........................................................ B3 1
ú Eating
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11 Köfteci Arnavut .......................................... D3
9 Asitane ........................................................ B3 1
12 Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi............................ D3
10 Köfteci Arnavut .......................................... D3 1
11 Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi............................ D3 1
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1 Atik Valide Mosque.................................D3
2 Ayazma Mosque .....................................B2
3 Çinili Mosque ........................................... E3
5 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ...................... C1
4 Kız Kulesi..................................................A3
7 Yeni Valide Mosque ................................C2
6 Şemsi Ahmed Paşa Mosque ................. B1
ú Eating
(p149)
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û Drinking & Nightlife
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9 Mistanbul Hancı Cafe ............................. B1
i)
24 6
38
1
3 A
K ARIYE MUSEUM 
5B
2
4
5A
7 B
9B
6
8
9A
Outer
Narthex
Exit 11
10
C
12
13B
13A
KARIYE MUSEUM
(CHORA CHURCH)
36
39 G 40
34
37
35
41b
41a
Annex
50C
43 H 44
42
45B
45A
47 I 48
46
Nave
50A
Apse
49B 49A
32
29
Inner
Narthex
15 D 14
16
17B
17A
31
19 E 18
30
26B
50B
J 33
27
28
26A
20
77 68
22
21
F
24
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76
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23
P
7473
65 U
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75
67
60
57
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70
56 O
64
63 62 59
71 66
61
58
53
L
N M 51
55 54 52
Entrance
æ Mosaics
1 The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem &
the dream of Joseph
2 The census held for the enrolment for
taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph
in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of
Syria
3 Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to
Jerusalem
4 Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the
doctors in the temple
5A St Trachos
5B St Andronikus
6 The birth of Jesus
7 The return of the Virgin Mary with Jesus
8 The attempts of Satan to deceive Jesus
9A St Georgios
9B St Demetrius
10 Jesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place
of the living’
11 The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant
angels
12 The wedding at Cana & the miracles
13A Depiction of the saints
13B Depiction of the saints
14 The Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding
on horseback & the three Magi in
audience with King Herod
15 Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away
from a pursuing soldier
16 Remains of mosaics
17A Depiction of the saints
17B Depiction of the saints
18 The scene of King Herod’s investigation & a
guard standing
19 The mourning mothers
20 No mosaics left
21 A decorative medallion
22 The meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan
woman at the well
23 The healing of a paralysed person by Jesus
24 King Herod giving the order for the
25
26A
26B
27
28
29
30
massacre of the innocents & the
execution thereof
Remains of mosaics
The healing by Jesus of a young man with
an injured arm
The healing by Jesus of leprous man
Twenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus
(Genealogy of Christ)
The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for
the restoration of her health
The healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law
of St Peter
The healing by Jesus of a deaf person
247
31 Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the
32
33
35
36
37
38
39
40
41A
41B
42
43
44
45A
45B
46
47
48
49A
49B
50A
50B
50C
æ Frescoes
51 The Anastasis
52 The Church Fathers
53 The raising (resurrection) of the widow's
son)
54 The healing of the daughter of Jairus
55 The Virgin Elousa
56 The Last Judgment
57 Abraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lap
58 St George
59 Rich man burning in Hell's fire
60 Those entering Heaven & the Angel
Seraphim with the semi-nude good thief.
61 Depiction of Andronikus II & his family &
the inscription & depiction above of
Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia
62 The Bearing of the Ark of the Covenant
63 St Demetrius
64 St Theodore Tiro
65 Mary & Child Jesus with the 12 attending
angels
66 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
Cosmos
67 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
John of Damascene
68 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
Theophanes
69 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
Joseph
70 St Theodore Stratelates
71 King Solomon & the Israelites
72 Placement into the temple of the Ark of the
Covenant
73 The combat of an angel with the Asurians in
the outskirts of Jerusalem.
74 St Procopios, St Sabas Stratelates
75 Moses in the bushes
76 Jacob's ladder & the angels
77 Aaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,
in front of the altar
78 St Samonas & guiras
 K ARIYE MUSEUM 
34
people
The healing by Jesus of two blind men
The Khalke Jesus & the praying Virgin
The Virgin & the Child Jesus
Joachim in the mountains praying to have a
child
No mosaics left
The breaking of the good news of the birth
of Jesus to Mary – The Annunciation
The chief priest Zacchariah judging the
Virgin
Mary & Joseph bidding each other farewell
The breaking of the good news of the birth
of Mary to Anne
The meeting of Anne & Joachim
Joseph bringing the Virgin into his house
Mary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the
blessing by the priests
Giving of the stick with young shoots
indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancé
The birth of the Virgin Mary
The first seven steps of the Virgin & below,
St Peter
The prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in
front of the 12 sticks
The presentation of Mary (age three) to the
temple by her parents
The Virgin taking the skeins of wool to
weave the veil for the temple
Theodore Metochites presenting a small
model of the church to Jesus
The feeding of the Virgin by an angel &
below, St Peter
Remains of mosaics – Directives given to
the Virgin at the temple
The Assumption of the Virgin
Mary & the Child Jesus
Jesus in a standing posture, holding the
Bible in his hand
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writer
Virginia Maxwell
Although based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her year researching
guidebooks in the Mediterranean countries. Of these, Turkey is unquestionably
her favourite. As well as working on the previous three editions of this city guide,
she is also the author of Lonely Planet’s İstanbul pocket guide and the İstanbul
chapter of Lonely Planet’s Turkey guide, and she writes about the city for a host
of international magazines and websites. Virginia usually travels with partner
Peter and son Max, who have grown to love Turkey as much as she does.
Read more about Virginia at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxell
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
7th edition – February 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 961 3
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
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16
Top Itineraries
Day One
Day Two
Sultanahmet & Around
Bazaar District
M
Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Square)
and work out which of the museums
and mosques in the immediate area will be
on your visiting list. Don’t miss Aya Sofya,
the Blue Mosque and the Basilica
Cistern.
Lunch Cihannüma offers Ottoman
dishes and stupendous views.
ready to explore the city’s famous
M Get
bazaar district. After exploring the
labyrinthine lanes and hidden caravanserais
of the world-famous Grand Bazaar, make
your way to the most magnificent of all Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye.
Lunch Eateries, including Bahar and Onur,
surround the Grand Bazaar.
Sultanahmet & Around
Bazaar District
Diverge from the tourist trail and
visit some of Sultanahmet’s hidden
highlights. Source some souvenirs in the
historic Arasta Bazaar, where you can
browse in carpet, handicraft and bathwares
shops.
R of local shoppers making their way
R
Dinner Hamdi serves delicious kebaps
and has magnificent views.
Sultanahmet & Around
After enjoying an early dinner, make
your way to Sirkeci, where you can
watch dervishes whirl at Hocapaşa Cultural Centre, a converted 15th-century
hamam. Alternatively, claim a table at
Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale,
where you can enjoy tea, nargile and a free
(but very touristy) whirling-dervish performance.
N
After lunch, follow the steady stream
down the hill to the Spice Bazaar. While
there, seek out the exquisite Rüstem Paşa
Mosque, camouflaged in the midst of a
busy produce market. As the sun starts to
set, walk across the Galata Bridge towards
the eating and entertainment district of
Beyoğlu.
Dinner Meyhanes (taverns) and
restaurants aplenty in Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu
Start with a pre-dinner drink in one
N of Beyoğlu’s rooftop bars and then
move on to dinner in a meyhane (tavern) or
a stylish restaurant serving Modern Turkish
cuisine. After dinner, kick on to a club or
wind down at the Tophane nargile cafes.
17
Day Four
Sultanahmet & Around
The Bosphorus
M
It’s time to investigate the lifestyles
of the sultans at Topkapı Palace.
You’ll need a half day to explore the palace
Harem, marvel at the precious objects
in the Treasury and wander through the
pavilion-filled grounds.
Lunch Matbah serves Ottoman food in
a pleasant garden setting.
Western Districts
Take the Golden Horn (Haliç) ferry
to Ayvansaray and then walk along
the historic land walls to Edirnekapı so
that you can admire the exquisite mosaics and frescoes that adorn almost every
surface of Kariye Museum, a former Byzantine church. If you’re keen to see more
mosaics, the Fethiye Museum is a short
walk away.
R
Dinner Asmalımescit, in Beyoğlu, has
bars and traditional meyhanes.
Sultanahmet & the Bazaar
District
You’ve spent a full day sightseeing,
N so why not relax in the steamy sur-
rounds of an Ottoman-era hamam (Turkish bath) after dinner? Afterwards, head
back across the Galata Bridge to Beyoğlu
so that you can sample more of its nightlife
options.
the Uzun Boğaz Turu
M Board
(Long Bosphorus Tour) to spend
a full day exploring this culturally and
architecturally rich waterway. After admiring the historic yalıs (waterside timber
mansions) along its shores, alight from the
ferry at Sarıyer and make your way back to
town by bus, visiting museums and monuments along the way.
Lunch MüzedeChanga – scenic terrace
and Modern Turkish cuisine.
Beyoğlu
If you decided to take a 90-minute
R cruise on a Bosphorus excursion
boat rather than the full-day trip, you
can devote the afternoon to investigating
Beyoğlu’s exciting contemporary-art scene.
Don’t miss the İstanbul Modern museum
and the ARTER and SALT cultural centres.
Dinner Stylish Lokanta Maya showcases Modern Aegean cooking.
Beyoğlu
Wander the streets surrounding the
N Galata Tower, admiring the build-
ing stock, browsing in boutiques and perhaps enjoying an aperitif. Then move on to
Lokanta Maya, a stylish showcase of Modern Aegean cooking in Karaköy, followed
by a sweet finale at İstanbul’s most famous
baklava shop, Karaköy Güllüoğlu.
PL AN YOUR TRIP To p I ti n e r a r ies
Day Three
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