see Diyarbakır guide 13.24 Mb

Diyarbakiring
108
11/15/07
8:08 PM
Page 108
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbakır Grand Mosque
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:08 PM
Page 109
DIYARBAKIR
Diyarbak›r
109
Diyarbakiring
110
11/15/07
8:08 PM
Page 110
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbak›r at a Glance
The province of Diyarbakır is located on a volcanic basin in the middle of Southeastern
Anatolia, and is surrounded by branches of the Taurus Mountains. The black, volcanic soil
was formed from basaltic lava flow. In addition to the Tigris, the region is covered with
small rivers and streams fed by the mountain slopes. The city is referred to as Amidi in
Assyrian sources, was called Amid following the Arab incursions, and became known as
Kara or ‘Black’ Amid with the arrival of the Turks. The current name is derived from the
name ‘Diyar-ı Bekr’, meaning ‘realm of the Bakr’ – a reference to the Arab Bakr tribe who
settled the region during the Arab incursions. In a speech in 1937, Atatürk called the city by
its current appellation, after which it became officially known as Diyarbakır. The history of
Diyarbakır dates back to around 7500 BC. Dozens of civilizations have passed through the
city, leaving behind many historic monuments. The most important of these are the stunning
city walls. The city’s main sources of income are farming and livestock breeding.
The Tigris
A ‘kelek’ race on the Tigris
Social Fabric
Diyarbakır has been an
important hub throughout
history, serving as a natural
bridge between Anatolia and
Mesopotamia, Europe and Asia.
Diyarbakır has been an
important meeting point and
melting pot for a wide range of
cultures, and many civilizations
have had a lasting impact on the
city. Today, Diyarbakır’s colorful
social fabric is woven from
Turkish, Syriac, Chaldean,
Armenian, Kurdish and Arab
threads.
The Tigris is the most important
river in Diyarbakır, watering the
region’s farmland via a network
of irrigation channels.
Excavations at the ruins at
Nineveh, Nemrut and Assyrian
cities reveal that the Tigris was
also once used for
transportation. Since prehistoric
times, rafts known as ‘kelek’
have been used on the Tigris and
the Euphrates for trade, travel
and transporting wood.
Traditionally made from wood,
these rafts remain in use to this
day.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:08 PM
Page 111
DIYARBAKIR AT A GLANCE
The walls of Diyarbakır seen from the On Gözlü Bridge
The Walls
Diyarbakır’s famous and historic
city walls were restored in 349
under the Byzantine Emperor
Constantius II. Considered the
oldest city walls in the world,
they are also the second longest
fortifications after the Great Wall
of China. The shield-shaped
walls are built from local black
volcanic basalt.
Nature
Diyarbakır is located in a basin
with a central depression, and is
surrounded by mountains. The
region has a harsh continental
climate with extremely hot
summers. Nevertheless, its winters
are comparatively milder than the
rest of Eastern Anatolia as the
Southeastern Taurus Mountains to
the north shelter it from cold
northern currents. The steppe
vegetation blooms briefly during
the spring, but dries up at the
beginning of summer with the end
of the rains. A smattering of oak
forests can be found in the arid
mountains.
Changing
lifestyles
Diyarbakır has experienced
large-scale immigration since the
1980s, resulting in a population
explosion. Consequently, the city
has grown dramatically, spilling
over the city walls. The
construction of dams and power
plants has supported the region’s
development, and irrigation
farming has become increasingly
widespread. The city’s university,
other educational institutions and
airport have also attracted trade
and tourism to the region in
recent years. New festivals have
also added to Diyarbakır’s
cultural scene.
ID CARD
Cotton
Diyarbakır has recently begun to
cultivate cotton using the
irrigated farming system. The
local Golda cotton is one of the
finest cotton varieties produced
in Turkey.
Provincial Population:
1,517,672 according to the 2000 census
City Center Population: 893,026
Altitude: 660 meters above sea level
Area: 15,355 square kilometers
Districts and Villages: 13 districts, 751 villages
Neighboring Provinces:
Siirt and Mufl to the east; fianl›urfa, Ad›yaman and
Malatya to the west; Elaz›¤ and Bingöl to the north;
Mardin to the south
111
Diyarbakiring
112
11/15/07
8:09 PM
Page 112
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
The Colors of Old Diyarbak›r
At first glance, Diyarbakır is a dark city: its historic city walls, houses
and even its soil verge on black. Diyarbakır derives its
deep color from the basalt rocks used in the
construction of almost all its buildings. The city
is set at the edge of a plateau formed from lava
that erupted from the Karacadağ volcano. This
lava cooled to form volcanic basalt rock, which
gives the city its characteristic gloomy hue.
A 14th-century
Karakoyunlu
headstone
shaped like a
ram
Karacada¤
The 1919-meter high Karacadağ
is a typical shield volcano built
up from layers of basalt lava
flows. The volcano is in the
southwest of the Diyarbakır
Basin on the Urfa-Diyarbakır
provincial border. The lava
stretches as far as the Tigris
Valley to the east. Because
Karacadağ consists of volcanic
rock, the waters that enter the
mountain reemerge at its
foothills or even further beyond.
Plateaus
The broken plateaus of Gaziantep and Şanlıurfa stretch to the west of
the Karacadağ volcano, while the land to its east is hillier.
Basalt religious
and military
buildings
material in Diyarbakır. Almost
every type of building you can
think of is constructed from
basalt, from the city walls to its
mosques and madrasas.
Basalt is a common construction
Yedi Kardeş Tower
A dead end staircase near the Mardin Gate
Mesudiye Madrasa
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:10 PM
Page 113
DIYARBAKIR AT A GLANCE
Basalt houses
Diyarbakır houses are built from
basalt, a porous rock that keeps
houses cool in the summer and
warm in the winter. The interiors
of these basalt houses are
embellished with white
ornamentation known as ‘cıs’
that contrasts beautifully with
the dark stone.
The Esma Ocak House (top); ‘Cıs’
ornamentation (left); Diyarbakır’s dark
houses are brightened by white
ornamentation (above and below left); A
narrow Diyarbakır street (right)
113
Diyarbakiring
114
11/15/07
8:10 PM
Page 114
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbak›r Houses
Most Diyarbakır houses are built from basalt and feature elegantly
decorated windows and ‘gezemek’ railings. The layout of Diyarbakır
houses is dictated by the local climate. The houses are divided into
summer and winters areas: the summer sections are usually north facing,
while the winter sections face south. The pools in the courtyards and
iwans also help to keep the houses cool in the hot summer months.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:10 PM
Page 115
DIYARBAKIR AT A GLANCE
Every house in
Diyarbakır has a central
courtyard, most of which
feature a pool and
decorative plants. The
kitchen is accessed
directly from the
courtyard.
The rooms, halls and iwans are
set at least 50 cm above the
courtyard.
The cusped arch windows are
embellished with geometric
designs, while elegant railings
provide security and prevent
children from falling.
The walls of the rooms feature
decorative niches for placing gas
lamps or framed photographs.
115
Diyarbakiring
116
11/15/07
8:11 PM
Page 116
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
A detail from
the Grand
Mosque
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:11 PM
Page 117
THE HISTORY OF DIYARBAKIR
The History of Diyarbak›r
Standing at the crossroads of Anatolia
and Mesopotamia, Diyarbakır has been
an important settlement throughout
human history. Archeological
excavations and research
conducted in and around
the city have revealed
that it has been
continuously
settled since the
Stone Age.
Stone tools
dating from the
Paleolithic era
have been found
in the Hilar
Caves. Çayönü is
considered one of
the earliest examples
of the agricultural
communities that developed
in the Neolithic period, while the
Girikihaciyan Tumulus shows traces of
Copper Age culture. Almost every
civilization that ruled Anatolia left its
stamp on Diyarbakır, which served as a
military and trade capital for the
Mitanni, Assyrians, Arameans, Urartu,
Meds, Persians, Seleucids,
Parthians, Romans,
Byzantines, Umayyads,
Marwanids, and
Seljuks.
Nevertheless, the
Romans,
Akkoyunlu and
Ottomans had the
most profound
impact on the
city: Diyarbakır
was one of the
largest border cities
in the eastern Roman
Empire, served as the
Akkoyunlu capital, and was an
important state in the Ottoman Empire,
boasting 20 districts.
117
Diyarbakiring
118
11/15/07
8:11 PM
Page 118
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Prehistoric
Diyarbak›r
Traces of human habitation dating from every
prehistoric period have been uncovered in and
around Diyarbakır. Over 100 archeological
settlements have been identified in the region.
Excavations at a number of these sites have
revealed important information about the
development of civilizations in Anatolia and
the Near East.
Bronze axes (above
and below)
Çayönü
Located in the village
of Sesverenpınar seven
kilometers southeast of
Ergani, Çayönü is an
important Pre-Pottery
Neolithic B settlement
in Anatolia that
offers tremendous
insights into the
era. Although the
site has few visible
remains, significant
works uncovered
during the
excavations are on
display at the
Diyarbakır Museum.
Çayönü is one of the
oldest known village
settlements in Anatolia
and serves as a
window onto the lives
of the earliest
agricultural
communities dating
back some 10,000
years.
Diagram
of a
Çayönü
house
The excavations at Çayönü have
revealed houses and other structures
laid out on a grid plan (above). A
pregnant female figure discovered at
Çayönü (left).
Girikihaciyan Tumulus
A prehistoric village has been uncovered at
the Girikihaciyan Tumulus located
near the village of Ekinciler in
Diyarbakır’s Eğil district. Pieces of
painted pottery and tools made
from flint, obsidian and bone have
been unearthed at the site,
including this idol (left) and
musical instrument made from bone
(below).
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:12 PM
Page 119
THE HISTORY OF DIYARBAKIR
Caves
The province of Diyarbakır is
home to many natural and
manmade caves that have been
used as shelter and for other
purposes since ancient times.
The most important of these are
the Birkleyn Cave in Lice, the
Hilar Caves in Ergani and the
Hassuni Cave in Silvan. The
Kulp, Eğil Pir İbrahi, Süleyman
Ağa, Şikefte and Çüngüş caves
are other notable caves in the
region.
Birkleyn Caves
On the rocky peaks to the east,
104 kilometers along the
Diyarbak›r-Bingöl road
Cuneiform inscriptions and
reliefs belonging to the Assyrian
kings Tiglath-Pileser I and
Shalmaneser III can be seen at
the entrance to both caves,
which are still being excavated.
Hilar Caves
The village of Sesveren in the
Ergani district
Reliefs and cell tombs have been
discovered hidden among the
rocks. The exteriors of the tombs
are ornamented with inscriptions
and reliefs of male and female
figures as well as sun and moon
motifs.
Üçtepe
Hassuni Caves
Üçtepe is located around 40
kilometers southeast of
Diyarbakır. The site is 300 meters
from the village of Üçtepe,
located 10 kilometers southwest
of Bismil. 13 archeological levels
dating from the Early Bronze Age
to the Roman era have been
uncovered. The site was an
important settlement in the
Assyrian Kingdom.
On the hilltops to the left of the
road, 7 km along the SilvanMalabadi highway
Some 300 manmade caves
consisting of rooms
interconnected by corridors are
nestled together in this small
area. The caves were mostly used
in the Middle Ages, but show
traces of Paleolithic habitation.
119
Diyarbakiring
120
11/15/07
8:13 PM
Page 120
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
The Romans and the Walls of Diyarbak›r
The Romans are thought to have arrived in Diyarbakır in 53 AD,
holding sway over the region until 226 AD. From 226 to 395,
the Romans battled for supremacy with the Parthians. The
Sassanids soon entered the fray. With the division of the Roman
Empire in 395, the area came under Byzantine jurisdiction.
Diyarbakır’s stunning walls are the city’s most important Roman
structures. Thought to have been originally built by the
Hurrians, the Inner Fortress (İçkale) was restored and its
fortifications strengthened by the Romans under Constantius II.
The Inner Fortress consists of the eastern section of the walls
between Dağkapı, Yenikapı and Mardinkapı. The western section
of this wall ran along what is now Gazi Caddesi. The western
walls were demolished between 367 and 375, and replaced with
the section now running from Dağkapı to Urfakapı and from
there to Mardinkapı. All of Diyarbakır’s later rulers restored or
added towers to the walls, which remain beautifully preserved to
this day.
Diyarbak›r’s
Walls and Towers
The fortifying walls of Old
Diyarbakır are among the
longest, widest and strongest in
the world. The citadel is located
at the eastern end of the basalt
plateau that stretches from
Karacadağ to the Tigris, standing
a hundred meters above ground
level. The walls are shaped like a
shield, or, according to some, a
turbot, and are divided into two
sections: the Outer Fortress
(Dışkale) and Inner Fortress
(İçkale).
Hevsel Gardens
Outer Fortress
(D›flkale)
The Outer Fortress measures 5
km long, spanning 1700 meters
from east to west and 1300 from
north to south. The walls measure
10-12 meters high, and are 3-5
meters thick, with a wide pathway
connecting the towers. Of the 81
towers, the most famous are the
Evli Beden (Ulu Beden), Yedi
Kardeş and Keçi (Kiçi). The
towers were used as dormitories,
cellars, cisterns and depots. The
Outer Fortress has four gates:
the Dağ (Harput) Gate, Urfa
(Rum) Gate, Mardin (Teli) Gate
and Yeni (Su or Dicle) Gate.
Urfa
Gate
The walls have
four gates that are
commonly known
by the names of
the neighboring
cities that they
face. This is the
Urfa Gate (left).
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:13 PM
Page 121
THE HISTORY OF DIYARBAKIR
Inner Fortress (‹çkale)
The original walls of the Inner
Fortress that incorporated the
Artukid Arch were later
demolished. New, wider walls were
built between 1524 and 1526
under Sultan Süleyman the
Magnificent. The Inner Fortress
has sixteen towers and four gates:
the Fetih and Oğrun gates lead
out of the city while the Saray and
Küpeli gates lead to the area within the
walls of the Outer Fortress. Two
churches, the ruins of an Artukid
Palace, the Viran Tower, a cistern and
mosque are found in the Inner Fortress.
The
Tigris
Yeni
Gate
Harput
Gate
Ulu (Evli)
Beden
Tower
Mardin
Gate
Keçi Tower
Yedi
Kardefl
Tower
Hevsel
Gardens
121
Diyarbakiring
122
11/15/07
8:15 PM
Page 122
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Highlights of the Inner Fortress
Hazreti Süleyman Mosque
Artukid Arch
Artukid Arch
This 10-meter wide, pointed arch
served as the entrance to the
Inner Fortress in Artukid times.
The large, prose inscription on
the arch is dated 603 in the
Islamic Hijri calendar (12061207 AD), evidence that the arch
dates from the same period as
the palace. Limestone reliefs on
either side of the arch depict a
lion attacking a bull, and are
identical to those on the eastern
entrance to the Grand Mosque.
set in the arched niche. Today,
only one statue remains, but it is
thought that there was originally
a pair.
The Church of
Saint George
(Kara Papaz)
The church is set at the northeast
end of the Inner Fortress on a
steep cliff overlooking the Tigris
Valley, and is an extension of the
fortifying walls. Records show
that it was built by pre-Christian
pagans and later converted into a
church. It is thought that the
Romans used it as a fire temple,
and it once served as an arsenal.
The church was incorporated
into the city walls as they were
being built by the Romans under
Emperor Constantius II. The
church consists of an entrance, a
central section covered by an
elliptical dome and a vaulted
apse to the east.
Hazreti Süleyman
Mosque
Also known as the Kale or
Nasıriyye Mosque, the Hazreti
Süleyman Mosque was built
from 1155-1169 by Nisanoğlu
Ebul Kasım. The square plan
minaret features a number of
horizontal moldings. The interior
of the mosque consists of three
barrel vaulted sections, including
the screened maksoorah. Most of
the mosque is made from ashlar.
Ottoman era tombs of Sulaiman,
son of Khalid ibn al-Walid, and a
number of companions of
Muhammed who died during the
Arab occupation of Diyarbakır
Lion Fountain
Lion Fountain
Located directly across from the
arch, this fountain is made from
cut basalt and has a three foil
cusped arch. Water pours out of
the mouth of a statue of a lion
The Church of Saint George (Kara Papaz)
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:16 PM
Page 123
THE HISTORY OF DIYARBAKIR
Yahya bin Ibrahim Sufi for the
Artukid leader al-Malik al-Salih
Mahmud and is decorated with
the Seljuk double-headed eagle,
inscriptions and lion reliefs.
Ulu Beden Tower
can be seen next to the
mosque.
Ulu Beden Tower
The black basalt, monumental
Ulu Beden Tower was built in
1208 by the architect Ibrahim bin
Jafar for the Artukid leader alMalik al-Salih Mahmud.
Nur Tower
Built in 1089 by the Seljuk
Sultan Malik Shah, the Nur
(Light) Tower is located next to
the Yedi Kardeş Tower, and is
decorated with Seljuk symbols,
running horses, lions, deer and
female figures.
Yedi Kardeş Tower
Yedi Kardefl
Tower
Nur Tower
The cut basalt, cylindrical Yedi
Kardeş (Seven Brothers) Tower
was built in 1208 by the architect
Keçi Tower
Keçi Tower
The oldest and largest of the
towers on Diyarbakır’s city walls
stands on a carved outcrop of
rock to the east of the Mardin
Gate. The 60-meter long Keçi
(Goat) Tower projects out from
the southern section of the
fortress. The tower was used as a
temple by the Byzantines, and
was later restored and added to
the fortress by the Marwanids.
The inscription on the tower
dates from this period. The
interior of the large tower
features arches supported by 11
columns. A small, round room
with three embrasures stands at
the southern tip of the tower.
Lion reliefs
Lion reliefs feature prominently on Diyarbak›r’s historic structures, as they do
in many Anatolian cities. In
Anatolian mythology, lions represent
courage and protection; reliefs or
statues of lions stand at the
entrances to cities, houses and
temples. The Romans are thought to
have appropriated the symbol of the
lion from Anatolian civilizations, as
they did the goddess Cybele. Some
historians interpret the lion as a
symbol of struggle, power and
superiority. The lion figures on
Diyarbak›r’s walls were thought to
serve as protective symbols.
123
Diyarbakiring
124
11/15/07
8:16 PM
Page 124
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbak›r Under
the Akkoyunlu
The Akkoyunlu (White Sheep) Turkmen tribal federation
(1340-1507) ruled the lands from present-day Khorasan to
the Euphrates, and from the Caucasus Mountains to the
Gulf of Oman. Early on, the Akkoyunlu settled in
Diyarbakır and soon annexed the entire region. After
defeating the Karakoyunlu Turkmen tribal federation, they
moved their center of power to Tabriz. The Akkoyunlu built
many mosques, madrasas, caravanserai, hospitals,
mausoleums and palaces in Anatolia and Iran, very few of
which survive today. This is largely due to the deliberate
destruction of Akkoyunlu structures by the Safavids.
An Akkoyunlu miniature
depicting a man and his hawk.
Gazi (Seman)
Köflkü
South of the city, overlooking
the Tigris Valley
This early 16th-century
Akkoyunlu ‘köşk’ or summer
mansion was built for a bey, and
was later used by the
Semanoğulları. The building
served as a quarantine during an
outbreak of typhoid and cholera
in the 17th and 18th century.
When Mustafa Kemal Atatürk
established his post at
Diyarbakır in 1917 and took
command of the XVIth Corps of
the 2nd Army, he lived in the
building, which had been rented
from the family, for 11 months.
Today, it has been converted into
a museum with a restaurant and
rustic outdoor café nearby.
Sheikh Mutahhar (Dört Ayakl›
Minare) Mosque Yenikap› Sokak, Bal›kç›larbafl›
Known officially as Sheikh
Mutahhar Mosque, the mosque is
more commonly referred to by
the locals as Sheikh Matar
Mosque. An inscription on the
minaret tells us that it was built
in 1500 by the Akkoyunlu Sultan
Kasım. The minaret is one of the
most striking structures in
Diyarbakır: the trunk is made
from black and white stones and
is bare of inscriptions. While
other minarets in the city have
square trunks, the pedestal is
completely unique. The pillars
that support the minaret are said
to represent the four schools
(mazhab) of Islamic thought
while the trunk stands for Islam
itself. The mosque is constructed
from alternating bands of black
and white stone.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:16 PM
Page 125
THE HISTORY OF DIYARBAKIR
125
The Ottoman Period
Ottoman coffeepots from
the Diyarbakır Museum
Diyâr-ı Bekr became a ‘beylerbeylik’ or province of the Ottoman
Empire in 1515. In the 17th century, the province covered 71,272
square kilometers, with its capital at Amid (Diyarbakır). The province
was divided into 20 ‘sancak’ or districts. In 1826, the province was
divided into the two new regions of Diyarbekr and Elaziz. The 500
years of Ottoman dominion had a profound impact on the city’s
architecture, as many structures were built, restored or expanded during
this time. During World War I, Diyarbakır was plagued by diseases,
fires and intense poverty. Huge architectural, social, cultural and
economic advances were made after the formation of the Republic. The
new city was established, and roads, hospitals, schools and modern
structures were built. The city grew and developed, and became a major
hub connected to the rest of the country by new roads.
Behram Pasha
Mosque
Ziya Gökalp
Built between 1564 and 1572 by
the provincial governor Behram
Pasha, the domed, ashlar
mosque is attributed to the
famous architect Mimar Sinan.
The narthex, together with the
ablution fountain before it, has
the look of a palatial entrance.
Deliller (Hüsrev Pasha) Inn Near the Mardin Gate
Built in 1527 by the provincial governor Hüsrev Pasha together with
the mosque and madrasa behind it, the inn is known as the Deliller
Hanı (Inn of the Guides) as guides who took pilgrims on the hajj
stayed at the inn. The stables are located in the single-story section
facing the street. A row of shops stands in front. The remainder of the
inn is two stories tall. Surrounded by geometric designs and niches,
the impressive entrance leads to an ablution fountain, past loggia
enclosing the central courtyard, and finally to the inn rooms. The inn
has been restored and currently functions as a hotel.
Diyarbakiring
126
11/15/07
8:17 PM
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Museums
1
2
3
Diyarbak›r Archeology
Museum
Cahit S›tk› Taranc›
Museum (Museum of
Culture)
Ziya Gökalp Museum
Mosques (Camii)
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Page 126
Diyarbak›r Grand (Ulu)
Mosque
Safa (Parl›/Palo) Mosque
Nebi (Peygamber)
Mosque
‹skender Pasha Mosque
Melik Ahmet Pasha
Mosque
Fatih Pasha (Kurflunlu)
Mosque
Lala Bey Mosque
Silvan Grand (Ulu or
Selahaddin-i Eyyüb-i
Meyyafarikin) Mosque
Mausoleums (Türbe)
12
13
14
15
16
The Mausoleum of
‹skender Pasha
The Mausoleum of
Özdemiro¤lu Hasan
Pasha
The Mausoleum of
Sheikh Abdülcelil
The Mausoleum of
Sultan fiüca
The Mausoleum of
Sheikh Yusuf Hemedani
23
24
Inns (Han)
25
26
27
28
Madrasas
18
19
20
Muslihiddin Lari
Madrasa
Zinciriye Madrasa
Mesudiye Madrasa
Ali Pasha Madrasa
30
31
21
22
The Church of the Virgin
Mary (Meryem Ana)
Surp Giragos Armenian
Church
Tigris (On Gözlü) Bridge
Devegeçidi Bridge
Haburman Bridge
Other Sights
32
33
34
Churches (Kilise)
Hasan Pasha Inn
Yeni Inn
Çifte Inn
Çeper Inn
Bridges
29
17
Mar Petyun Chaldean
Catholic Church
Mar Thoma Church
35
36
Süleyman A¤a Caves
Assyrian Fortress
Zülkifil Mountain
Dakyanus Ruins
Hevsel Gardens
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:17 PM
Page 127
SIGHDSEEING IN DIYARBAKIR
127
Diyarbakiring
128
11/15/07
8:17 PM
Page 128
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:17 PM
Page 129
SIGHDSEEING IN DIYARBAKIR
129
Diyarbakiring
130
11/15/07
8:17 PM
Page 130
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Roman bottles from the museum
collection
1 Diyarbak›r
Archeology
Museum
Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı Museum
collection consists of Tarancı’s
personal belongings,
correspondence, library, family
photographs and ethnographic
works from the region.
Selahattin Yaz›c›o¤lu Caddesi,
Central Diyarbak›r
Diyarbakır’s first museum
opened in 1934 in the Zinciriye
Madrasa attached to the Grand
Mosque, but moved to the
current building in 1985.
Ethnographic works and coins
discovered in excavations in and
around Diyarbakır are displayed
chronologically at the museum.
Cahit S›tk›
Taranc› Museum
2
Taranc› Sokak, Cami-i Kebir
This classic Diyarbakır house
was built in 1733. The poet Cahit
Sıtkı Tarancı was born here in
1910 and spent his childhood in
this house. The museum’s
Ziya Gökalp Museum
Ziya Gökalp
Museum
3
Gökalp Sokak, Melik Ahmet
Caddesi
The sociologist and writer Ziya
Gökalp was born in 1876 in this
Cahit S›tk› Taranc› (1910-1956)
Cahit S›tk› Taranc› is considered one of Turkey’s most
important modern poets. He wrote poignant poems in
syllabic meter, mainly on profound subjects such as
death, loneliness, longing and love. Born in Diyarbak›r,
the poet lived in this house on Cami-i Kebir street until
he finished middle school. After graduating from the
Galatasaray Lycee in
Istanbul, he went to Paris
to study at the Science
Politique. He returned to
Turkey at the outbreak of
the Second World War and
worked as a translator. The
house where he was born
and lived in as a child was
converted into a museum
Built in 1733, the house is a classic example of traditional
in 1973.
Diyarbakır residental architecture.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:18 PM
Page 131
SIGTSEEING IN DIYARBAKIR
Diyarbak›r Grand
Mosque
4
Gazi Caddesi
The mosque was built in 639 during the
caliphate of Umar after the city was
conquered by Muslim Arabs. Built over the
remains of the Mar Thoma church, this is the
oldest known mosque in Anatolia, and bears
a striking similarity to the Umayyad Grand
Mosque in Damascus. The mosque has been
restored and added to at various times over
the years. The complex consists of wings to
be used by different Islamic sects (one for
the Hanafi, one for the Shafii) plus the
Mesudiye and Zinciriye madrasas. Although
dating from different eras, the
ornamentation, reliefs and inscriptions on
the highly decorated walls of the courtyard
are in perfect artistic harmony.
stonework. One of the
mosque’s most striking
features is its central dome.
The Islamic scholar
Muslihiddin Lari is buried in
the mosque’s cemetery.
two-story basalt house built in
1806. The museum opened in
1956 and displays a collection of
Ziya Gökalp’s personal
possessions and documents.
Safa
(Parl›/Palo)
Mosque
5
Melik Ahmet Caddesi, west of
the Grand Mosque
With its unusual layout,
decorative stonework and
ceramic tiles, this is one of
Diyarbakır’s most important
structures. The mosque is
built entirely from black and
white ashlar. The minaret
stands to the right of the
mosque and is covered from
its base to its spire in Kufic
inscriptions and a wide
variety of decorative
Nebi
(Peygamber)
Mosque
6
Safa (Parlı) Mosque
At the junction of Gazi Caddesi
and ‹nönü Caddesi, near
Da¤kap›
This single-domed mosque built
from black and white ashlar
dates from the Akkoyunlu
period. The dome stands on six
feet, and the interior is covered
with beautiful ceramic tiles. The
Ottomans made various additions
to the mosque, and the square
minaret was built in 1530 by a
butcher named Hacı Hüseyin.
131
Diyarbakiring
132
11/15/07
8:18 PM
Page 132
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Lala Bey
Mosque
10
İskender Pasha Mosque
Iskender Pasha
Mosque
7
‹skender Pafla
This Ottoman mosque was built
in 1551 by the provincial
governor of Diyarbakır, İskender
Pasha. Dating from the Sinan
period, the building has the
inverted-T plan frequently seen
in early Ottoman mosques, and
shows local architectural
influences.
Melik Ahmet
Pasha Mosque
8
Melik Ahmet Caddesi
Located near the Urfa Gate, this
mosque was built from 15871591 by Melik Ahmet Pasha.
Some sources attribute it to the
famous architect Mimar Sinan.
The lower level features shops
and storage areas. The
noteworthy mosque boasts
striking ceramic tiling and
decorations on its minaret.
Fatih Pasha
(Kurflunlu)
Mosque
9
In the east of the city
The earliest Ottoman structure in
Diyarbakır was built from 15161520 by the city’s first Ottoman
governor, Bıyıklı Mehmet Pasha.
The mosque is constructed from
black and white ashlar.
Highlights include the ceramic
tiles on the interior walls and the
beautifully ornamented mihrab
and minbar.
Dörtler Sokak, Lala Bey
The mosque is thought to have
been built in the 15th century
by Lala Kasım, the bey of Eğil.
The ashlar, single-domed
mosque has been poorly
restored, but the narthex and
minaret remain relatively well
preserved. The façade is
decorated with colored stones.
The mausoleum of Lala Bey is
located in the northeastern
corner of the mosque.
Silvan
Grand
Mosque
11
Cami, Silvan
This Artukid mosque in Silvan
was built in 1157 by the ruler
of Mardin, Nadjm ed-Din Alpi.
When the city fell to the
Ayyubid leader Salah al-Din
Yusuf ibn Ayyub (known as
Saladin in the West) in 1185, it
became associated with his
name. The mosque is an
example of the plan developed
by the Great Seljuks in Iranian
mosques. The dome of the
mihrab is conical, and the
mosque features column
capitals from a Byzantine
basilica.
The
Mausoleum of
Iskender Pasha
12
East of ‹skender Pasha
Mosque
The mausoleum is thought to
have been built in 1551 by the
governor of Diyarbakır,
İskender Pasha, together with
his children. The mausoleum
has two sections: the northern
end features an ornamented
mihrab, cusped arch windows
and a single-domed masjid
while the mausoleum itself is
to the south. The entire
structure was constructed from
bands of black and white
stone, and is considered an
important example of ‘türbe’
architecture.
The
Mausoleum of
Özdemiro¤lu
Hasan Pasha
13
West of Fatih Pasha Mosque
This classic 16th-century
Ottoman mausoleum was built
in 1585 in the name of
Özdemiroğlu Osman Pasha,
the governor of Diyarbakır
from 1571-1575.
The
Mausoleum of
Sheikh
Abdülcelil
14
The courtyard of Sheikh Safa
Mosque, Central Diyarbak›r
The undated mausoleum is
located to the east of the
mosque. Constructed from
ashlar, the mausoleum has an
octagonal central section and a
pyramidal brick roof with a
domed interior and channeled
exterior.
The
Mausoleum of
Sultan fiüca
15
Opposite the Deliller Inn,
Mardin Gate
Although the precise date of
construction is not known, an
inscription belonging to Sultan
Şüca on the fountain
immediately in front of the
mausoleum helps us to date it
to around 1208-1209.
The Mausoleum of Sultan Şüca
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:18 PM
Page 133
SIGTSEEING IN DIYARBAKIR
The
Mausoleum of
Sheikh Yusuf
Hemedani
16
Alican
The undated ashlar and rubble
mausoleum of Sheikh Yusuf
Hemedani is in the northwestern
corner of the courtyard of the
eponymous mosque.
Muslihiddin
Lari Madrasa
17
South of Safa Mosque, in the
mosque courtyard
Thought to date from the first
half of the 14th century, the
single story madrasa is also
known as the Sheikh Safa
Madrasa. The majority of the
Mesudiye
Madrasa
Mesudiye Madrasa
19
North of the Grand Mosque
Diyarbakır’s oldest major
madrasa was built in 1198 during
Diyarbakır. The madrasa is
attributed by some to Mimar
Sinan.
The Church
of the Virgin
Mary (Meryem
Ana)
21
Alipafla
This Syriac Orthodox church
remains in use to this day. The
Byzantine pulpit and Romanstyle door are worth notice. A
number of saints are buried in
the church. The original layout
has been altered as a result of
numerous restorations. The latest
restoration was conducted by
Mafiryan İshak in the 18th
century during the patriarchate of
Zinciriye Madrasa
building is made of cut stone,
although bricks were
occasionally used in the vaulted
roof.
Zinciriye
Madrasa
18
West of the Grand Mosque
Officially known as the
Sincariye Madrasa, the madrasa
was built by the architect Ebu
Dirhem in 1198. The building
served as a shelter for the poor
during World War I and was
converted into the Archeology
Museum in 1934. The museum
later moved to its current
premises.
the reign of the Artukid ruler
Kutb al-Din Sokman, and is
considered the first university in
Anatolia. The revolving stone
columns on either side of the
mihrab are able to identify any
collapse or slide in the building.
Ali Pasha
Madrasa
20
Between the Mardin and Urfa
gates, Alipafla
This single story mixed ashlar
and brick madrasa was built
from 1543 to 1547 by Hadım
Ali Pasha, a governor of
The Church of the Virgin Mary
133
Diyarbakiring
134
11/15/07
8:18 PM
Page 134
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Church
Formerly on the site of the
Grand Mosque
Also known as the church of
Saint Thomas, the structure was
originally a pre-Christian pagan
temple. The precise date of
construction is not known.
Various additions were made to
the temple to convert it into a
church. The church was replaced
by a mosque when the region
was conquered by the Islamic
Hasan Pasha Inn
armies in 639.
Hasan Pasha
Inn
25
Surp Giragos Church
Gorgis.
Surp Giragos
Armenian Church
22
Göçmen Sokak, Özdemir
Written sources and inscriptions
in the church suggest that it was
built between 1515 and 1518.
The church burned to the ground
in 1880 and was rebuilt in the
same spot three years later in
1883. An imposing, five-story
Gothic bell tower was
demolished in 1916. The large
church has five naves, five apses,
and baptisteries on either side of
the apses.
apses. The church holds monthly
masses, making it the second
church in Diyarbakır in use
today.
24
Mar Thoma
26
Mar Petyun
Chaldean
Catholic Church
Mar Petyun Church
Yeni Inn
Behind the Zinciriye Madrasa,
south of the Grand Mosque
The two-story, rubble inn was
built from 1788-1789 by a
gentleman named Seyyid Hacı
Abdullah. A staircase to the
left of the entrance leads to the
second floor. The entrance has
a pointed arch opening onto
the courtyard. The inn is
surrounded on all four sides by
loggia.
27
23
fieftali Sokak, Özdemir
Built in the 17th century, the
church has three naves and five
Gazi Caddesi, east of the
Grand Mosque
The two-story inn was built in
1573 by the third Ottoman
governor, Vezirzade Hasan
Pasha. A domed, columned
ablution fountain stands in the
center of the courtyard. The
striking western façade of the
inn resembles an inverted
iwan.
Çifte Inn
South of the Hasan Pasha Inn,
near the Mardin Gate
Stylistically, this inn would
seem to date from the 16th
century. The low-arched
colonnaded loggia that enclose
three sides of the courtyard
continue on the second floor.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:19 PM
Page 135
SIGTSEEING IN DIYARBAKIR
Remains of an Assyrian
cemetery can be seen in the part
of the fortress on the banks of
the Tigris.
Zülkifil
Mountain
34
The ruins of the church of the
Virgin Mary and Ezekiel’s post
are located on the mountain. The
site is an important place of
pilgrimage for Muslims and
Christians alike, and is especially
crowded on Thursdays and
Fridays.
Dakyanus
Ruins
35
Tigris (On Gözlü) Bridge
28
Çeper Inn
On the Diyarbak›r-Bingöl road,
near the village of Biryas
The inn is similar in style to
those constructed in Anatolia in
the 16th century, with a large
entrance, courtyard and cells
lining the inner courtyard.
Tigris (On
Gözlü) Bridge
29
Below the Atatürk Köflk, 3 km
south of the city
The ashlar bridge over the Tigris
is also known as the On Gözlü
(Ten-Eyed) Bridge after its ten
elegant arches. According to an
inscription on the bridge, it was
built in the 8th century and
demolished during the siege of
the city by the Byzantine
Emperor John I Tzimisces. It
was rebuilt by an architect
named Ubeyd oğlu Yusuf during
the Marwanid era. Restored at
various times throughout history,
the bridge has lost its original
form.
Devegeçidi
Bridge
30
Spanning the Devegeçidi
Stream, 20 km north of
Diyarbak›r
The bridge has seven pointed
arches. The 262nd verse of the
Sura Al Bakara of the Koran is
inscribed on the bridge. The
bridge also has two other
inscriptions, which tell us that it
was built in 1218 by the architect
Cafer İbn Mahmud for the
Artukid leader al-Malik al-Salih
Mahmud.
Haburman
Bridge
31
Near the village of Haburman in
the Çermik district
This three-arched bridge
spanning the Sinek Stream was
built in 1179. The central arch is
large and pointed, while the two
outer arches are smaller and
more rounded.
Süleyman A¤a
Caves
The ruins are perched on a 1110meter summit to the west of Lice
on the Diyarbakır-Lice road.
The settlement is thought to date
from Seleucid or Roman times.
Uncovered structures include a
large wall thought to be part of
Dakyanus’ palace, arches and a
number of paving stones.
36 Hevsel
Gardens
A symbol of Diyarbakır, the
gardens were formed from silt
carried by the Tigris River,
located to the southeast of the
city. A variety of fruit trees and
summer and winter vegetables
are grown here. Covering over
900 acres, the Hevsel Gardens
have fulfilled the city’s fruit and
vegetable needs for thousands of
years. Today, the gardens are
also a popular picnic site.
32
The confluence of the Aksu and
Göksu streams in the Ç›nar
district
This settlement is known to date
back 2000 years. Entrances were
carved into the rock, accessing
the large, room-like caves.
Assyrian
Fortress
33
On the sloping banks of the
Tigris, E¤il
The fortress was carved out of a
rocky outcrop on the hillside.
Remains of an Assyrian cemetery
135
Diyarbakiring
136
11/15/07
8:19 PM
Page 136
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbak›r Culture
Folk dances and
music
The most popular local folk dance is the
‘halay’, an energetic, joyful dance
performed holding hands in a circle. All
the local folk dances reflect the region’s
lifestyle and social and cultural
traditions. Diyarbakır, Şanlıurfa and
Elazığ music are all heavily influenced
by each other. In addition to anonymous
folk songs, songs and ghazals by known
composers and traditional Sufi music
are also performed in the region. These
are usually accompanied by ‘ney’ (reed
flute), nakkare (a small kettledrum), and
stringed instruments such as the
‘tambur’ and ‘rebap’. Outdoor
performances are accompanied by
‘davul’ (drums) and ‘zurna’ (a shrill
reed pipe).
Hennaed hands
Traditional dress
A silver ‘tepelik’ headdress
Handcrafts
Diyarbakır’s long tradition of fine
jewelry is maintained by a
number of jewelry shops located
in the restored Kuyumcular
Çarşısı (Jewelers’ Bazaar) and
the older bazaar of the same
name next door. The city’s few
remaining coppersmiths continue
to produce copper ewers, trays
and pitchers. Hand woven kilims
and carpets are still
manufactured in the region’s
villages. Diyarbakır is renowned
for its woven bracelets, silverinlaid bath pattens, and engraved
wooden chests of drawers.
Since the 18th-century, the women of Diyarbakır have traditionally
worn a headdress known as a ‘kofi’, which consists of a bowl-shaped
‘tar’ made of tin and wood worn as a frame under their clothing. Rural
women wear flower-patterned fustian dresses known as ‘entari’.
Traditional accessories include turbans, nose rings, chokers, anklets,
earrings, lovelocks, and silver ‘tepelik’ headdresses.
Bardakç›l›k
Pottery has been made in
Diyarbakır since Neolithic times.
Locally, earthenware jugs are
known as ‘bardak’, from which
the term ‘bardakcılık’ or pottery
is derived. Every master potter
employs a team that consists of
an overseer, potter, glazer and
apprentice. Red soil, silt and
clay from the banks of the Tigris
is mixed with salt to form the
clay.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:19 PM
Page 137
DIYARBAKIR CULTURE
The Bo¤azkere
Grape
Bo¤azkere is a grape variety that
grows in the Diyarbak›r region and is
used in making Turkish red wines.
Diyarbak›r offers the ideal climate
and soil conditions for cultivating
Bo¤azkere grapes, which flourish on
the gravelly, chalky soil of the
alluvial plains between the Tigris
and the Euphrates. Bo¤azkere
grapes are small and dark, with
thick skins and high tannin levels;
indeed, the name refers to its bitter,
astringent flavor.
Wines
Boğazkere is usually blended with
Öküzgözü (most often one part Boğazkere
to two parts Öküzgözü), producing a high
quality, balanced red wine.
Boğazkere-Öküzgözü blends include:
Çankaya Boğazkere (made from grapes
from the Elazığ-Diyarbakır region),
Kavaklıdere Boğazkere (made from
grapes from the Diyarbakır region)
Doluca Özel Kav, Kavaklıdere Selection
Kırmızı, Turasan Öküzgözü-Boğazkere,
Pamukkale Diamond (ÖküzgözüBoğazkere) and Terra (ÖküzgözüBoğazkere)
Mono-varietal wines are also produced
from Boğazkere grapes. The Kulüp,
Turasan and Kocabağ wine producers’
mono-varietal Boğazkere wines are dark,
purplish red and have high tannin levels
with vanilla, cinnamon and dried plum
aromas.
137
Diyarbakiring
138
11/15/07
8:20 PM
Page 138
A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
Diyarbak›r Cuisine
Meat – especially lamb and mutton - plays an important role in
Diyarbakır cuisine. Many dishes are spicy or sour, and are
prepared with plenty of oil. Pastrami, cured meat, cheese, tomato
paste and pickles are prepared as winter provisions.
Kaburga dolmas›
‘Kaburga dolması’ are stuffed ribs
usually made from lamb or the meat
of young male goats. The ribs are
stuffed with spiced rice, sewn shut,
steamed, and then baked in an oven.
The cooked meat is served in
shredded pieces.
Meftune
Kaburga dolması
This local Diyarbakır specialty is
made from meat and vegetables
flavored with sumac and garlic.
Varieties include zucchini, eggplant
and ‘kenger’ (a thistle-like plant)
meftune.
Liver kebab
One of the most popular dishes in
the city.
Meat pilaf
Roast meat
Meatballs
Diyarbakır’s many varieties of
meatball or ‘köfte’ include ‘çiğ köfte’
(Turkish steak tartare), ‘içli köfte’
(meatballs in a cracked wheat shell),
‘Analı Kızlı’ (meatballs made with
cracked wheat) and ‘ekşili köfte’
(made with egg and lemon sauce).
Other popular local dishes are
‘duvaklı pilav’ (veiled rice), ‘bulgur
pilav’ (cracked wheat pilaf), ‘etli
ekşili dolma’ (meat dolma cooked
with egg and lemon), ‘zeytinyağlı
dolma’ (vegetarian dolma cooked in
olive oil), ‘kibe mumbar’ (stuffed
intestines), ‘lebeni’ (yoghurt soup)
and baba ghanoush.
Burma kadayıf
Desserts
The ‘tel kadayıf’ strands are
cooked on a copper hot plate.
Burmalı Kadayıf is the most popular pastry-based dessert in
Diyarbakır. The ‘kadayıf’ batter is poured onto a hot plate called a
‘sac’ and twisted into long strands. Burmalı Kadayıf has been made in
Diyarbakır and Bingöl since the 18th century. Other local desserts
include ‘nuriye’ (made from pastry and syrup), ‘zingil’, ‘revani’ (a cake
soaked in syrup), ‘halbur hurma’ and ‘künefe’.
Sumac
Sumac is a 2-3 meter tall shrub that grows in Southeastern Anatolia that
produces a dark red, hairy, lentil-sized fruit. Ground sumac has a puckery,
sour flavor and is the most popular spice in
Southern and Southeastern Anatolian
cooking. It features heavily in Diyarbak›r
cuisine. Sumac is known to have antiseptic
properties, to aid digestion, improve
appetite and lower blood sugar. It is also
used in the textile sector to dye wool
fabrics.
Diyarbakiring
11/15/07
8:20 PM
Page 139
DIYARBAKIR CUISINE
Diyarbak›r Watermelons
Diyarbakır’s large and delicious watermelons
are renowned throughout the world and have
become a veritable symbol of the city. The
watermelons are cultivated on the gravelly,
sandy soil along the banks of the Tigris using
local methods. When the waters of the Tigris
recede around April and May, large hollows
known as ‘watermelon wells’ form in the
riverbed. These hollows are filled with sheep,
goat and pigeon droppings, which the locals
call ‘barn fertilizer’. The watermelons owe
their monumental size to the sheep and goat
manure, and their flavor to the pigeon
droppings.
Watermelons on the
Tigris
In the past, festivities were held in the
watermelon fields on the banks of the Tigris
to mark the watermelon harvest.
Traditionally, the first harvested watermelon
would be cut in half, hollowed out and filled
with ashes. Paraffin was then poured over
the ashes, and set alight. The flaming
watermelon would be launched onto the
waters of the Tigris, followed by a whole
flotilla of burning watermelons. The revels
traditionally included a performance of the
‘Çayda Çıra’ folk dance.
Watermelon Festival
In 1966, an annual watermelon festival was
inaugurated to help bolster waning interest
Diyarbakır
watermelons weigh
around 50 kilos. A
giant watermelon
competition is held
every year.
in the traditions surrounding Diyarbakır’s
watermelons. The ‘Diyarbakır Watermelon Festival’
has attracted visitors to the city and helped boost its
economy.
Shopping
Shops selling local products can
be found near the city’s historic
sights. The jewelers’ bazaar
carries woven bracelets, chokers,
silver inlaid bath pattens and
chests of drawers. The bazaars
and shops near the Hasan Pasha
Inn or the Grand Mosque sell
kilims and carpets woven in the
region’s villages. Local silk
fabrics, handkerchiefs, and hand
painted or printed fabrics are
sold at the Yanık Çarşı.
A shop selling local spices and
dried fruit and nuts (left).
Beautiful local fabrics (above).
The city also boasts many
modern shopping centers
(right).
139