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Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 21, 2005• $2.00
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WWDTHURSDAY
Sportswear
Training Day
PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: AMANDA ERICSSON/Q; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL/FRANK ARENDS; MAKEUP BY DAVID TIBOLLA/JUMP; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY
NEW YORK — Denim, one of the hottest categories at retail,
is changing shape this season. Designers are offering every
form and look imaginable, including some extreme shapes,
such as the rounded inseam cotton denim trousers from
Miss Sixty’s conceptual line, Killah, worn here with Diesel’s
polyester and cotton tank. “It’s being carried in all 39
international Killah stores,” says Joe Falco, president of
sales for Sixty USA. “We believe in it as a company and our
international following is feeling really strong about it.”
For more, see pages 6 and 7.
Rolling With the Punches:
Sale of Joe Boxer Label
Is Said to Be Imminent
By Vicki M. Young
NEW YORK — Joe Boxer, the high-profile
label best known for its outrageous
marketing and underwear, is close to
being sold.
Licensing experts, speaking on the
condition of anonymity, described the
prospective buyer as a New York-based
brand management firm that specializes
in the footwear and apparel industries.
They declined to identify the company.
The deal is anticipated to close “within
the week” if talks proceed smoothly, the
sources said. It is uncertain what a sale of
the brand would mean for Sears Holdings
See Joe, Page12
WWD.COM
WWDTHURSDAY
Sportswear
FASHION
™
6
A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based
on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated
WEDDING BELLES
Today’s bridesmaids opt for light and airy fashions
proverbial star of the show. “Today’s bride is
As the temperature rises, so does the number
definitely more open-minded and a little bit older,”
of weddings. “Summer is a fantastic time to get
concurs Yoo. “She’s comfortable with herself.”
married,” relates Beth Blake, owner of Thread, a
According to the Monitor, 65% of women ages
chic destination for bridal parties in New York.
25 to 34 gave their marital status as married in
“Warm weather weddings have that easy feel and
1995, compared to just 61% in 2004. Among those
sentimentality to them.”
35 to 55; 72% in 1995 stated
But that air of romanticism
that they were married compared
also beckons a dose of reality,
to 66% in 2005.
cautions Jenny Yoo, a designer of
The overall look for the
sophisticated bridesmaid dresses.
modern bridal party generally is a
“A bride needs to be considerate
collaborative effort among the
of the season,” she explains.
bride and her attendants. “I think
“Dresses for the wedding party
the majority of women in bridal
should be light and airy and in
parties are well educated about
tune with summer.”
style and fashion,” agrees Andreas
Agrees Christina Dalle Pezze,
Padazoboulos, an owner of
designer and founder of Simple
Banico, a New York City custom
Silhouettes, a boutique for
shop.
bridesmaids, “Bridal parties
“Bridal
parties
can
select
“Nearly all of our customers
can select lighter colors, easy
lighter
colors,
easy
silhouettes,
bring in pictures from magazines,”
silhouettes, and natural fibers
for the dresses. That will go a and natural fibers for the dresses. she says. “They’ve done their
That will go a long way in
homework and at the end of the
long way in ensuring that the
ensuring that the bridesmaids
day, they want what looks best
bridesmaids are as comfortable
are as comfortable as they
for their body type.”
as they are beautiful.”
are beautiful.”
According to the Monitor, one
This season’s wedding attendants
— Christina Dalle Pezze,
in three women cite fashion
seem to have an endless array to
Simple Silhouettes
magazines as a source for clothing
choose from, agree the experts,
ideas.
and they are all ultimately fashThere truly is something for every bridesmaid,
ionable. “Our collection is all about natural fibers,
no matter what her body type or size, stresses
so our dresses are perfect for the warmer months,”
Dalle Pezze from Simple Silhouettes. “A bride
Dalle Pezze continues. “What you wear should be
can decide that she wants her attendants to wear
breathable; a cotton dress is ideal for a summer
a strapless dress and the bridesmaids still have
wedding, whether the ceremony is right by the
a range of choices, from a lower-waisted cut to an
water or in the middle of the city.”
empire waist.”
A majority of women will put their money
“Strapless happens to be our number one seller,
where their comfort is, according to Cotton
so it’s not only a style that’s on
Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™.
Willing To Pay More For
trend but in keeping with the
Sixty-one percent of female
Natural
Fibers
Such
As
Cotton
season,” Yoo confirms. “Sleeveless
respondents stated that they were
is a close runner up and that also
willing to pay more for natural
(Women 16-70)
happens to be an ideal silhouette
fibers such as cotton.
Yes
61%
for the summer.”
“It’s a very cool and summery
No
34%
However, warm weather
fabric,” considers Blake from
weddings are not just limited to the summer
Thread. She also highlights an added bonus to
months. With the overwhelming popularity
buying a cotton bridesmaid’s dress. “You can wear
of destination weddings, many in tropical and
it again and it won’t scream that you wore it in
seaside locations, the need for lighter dressing
a wedding party.”
is paramount.
In fact, diversion from yesterday’s flouncy and
Blake estimates that out-of-town ceremonies
unflattering frocks seems to be the defining trend in
comprise one in three weddings for customers
bridal dressing today. “All women want to look great
of Thread; for these occasions, she sells her share
in their dresses, so custom design is there to make
of cotton eyelet. “We do a lot of short, white cotton
everyone happy,” explains Christina Kara, owner of
eyelet dresses with pink, blue and green trims;
Blue, a boutique located in Manhattan’s emerging
the color really comes through and gives it a
Lower East Side.
wonderful hue,” she says. “There’s something
It seems customization has changed the face –
very sweet, yet sexy, about eyelet and that’s why
and the attitude – of bridal parties everywhere.
bridesmaids really love it.”
“Today’s bride feels obliged to please her sisters,
And cheerful bridesmaids should make for a
cousins and friends so she allows them to choose
blissful bride. As designer Dalle Pezze concludes, “It
the styles that are most flattering for them,”
doesn’t
make sense that anyone would want to go
Kara continues.
into that day unhappy about anything. After all,
“Bridal parties are not about a uniform look
who doesn’t want to see happy, smiling faces in their
anymore,” confirms Blake from Thread. That
wedding pictures?”
accounts for today’s wedding parties that often
wear one color but in a variety of silhouettes, or
This story is one in a series of articles based on findings
one style of dress but seen in a palette of colors. “It’s
from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™
hard to put everyone in the same exact dress and
tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages,
expect each person to look good. Customization is
each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the
a great way for a bride to be considerate of her
American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes
bridesmaids,” Blake adds.
and behavior regarding clothing,
Such consideration likely comes from a strong
appearance, fashion, fiber selection and
dose of maturity and confidence from the
many other timely, relevant subjects.
The denim category continues to play host to a number of players and, as
the game heats up, the consumer continues to come out on top.
GENERAL
1
3
4
8
9
10
Joe Boxer, the high-profile label best known for its outrageous marketing
and underwear, is close to being sold.
Marshall Field’s is opening the first World of JLo shop in its Chicago
flagship featuring fashion, handbags, watches and fragrances.
Rose Marie Bravo, ceo of Burberry, bulked up her bank account by 8.2
million pounds, or $14.2 million, after cashing in stock options this week.
DISH: A boutique grows in Brooklyn…Acid-wash jeans are the latest
Eighties’ revival item…Diesel helps cultivate design talent.
BEAT: Annette Breindel, owner of the Annett B. Showroom in New York,
reflects about her 25 years helping designers get their start.
ACTIVE: Combine the plethora of swimwear shows with the excess of
South Beach, and it would be hard to tell swimwear has had a tough year.
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In Brief
●
SARA LEE TO TAKE CHARGE: Sara Lee Corp. warned Wall
Street Wednesday that it would take a pretax charge of $122 million in its fiscal fourth quarter relating to the streamlining of its
business announced earlier this year. “We are making the tough
choices necessary to improve operational efficiency, reduce our
cost structure and move the company forward,” said Brenda C.
Barnes, president and chief executive officer of Sara Lee, in a
statement. The charge includes $113 million worth of severance
payouts due to the termination of 1,956 employees from its
branded apparel, beverage and household products units. About
$9 million of the charge relates to exiting leases and other contracts. “All of these actions will result in cash expenditures and
are expected to be completed in fiscal 2006,” the company said.
“The after-tax impact of this charge is $81 million.”
● KELLWOOD HIRE: Melanie Reichler has been named senior vice
president of sourcing for Kellwood Co.’s Sag Harbor brand. She
succeeds Gary Jastrow, formerly senior vice president of manufacturing, who left the company. Reichler was vice president of manufacturing at Michael Kors. Before that, she was senior vice president of manufacturing at Tommy Hilfiger women’s. She also held
executive posts with DKNY Jeans, Polo Jeans Co., Liz Claiborne
and Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. Based in New York, Reichler reports
to Paul Robb, chief executive officer of Sag Harbor.
●
BURMA BAN: The Senate voted 97-1 Tuesday to extend a ban
on all U.S. imports from Myanmar, formerly known as Burma,
after House approval of the ban on June 21. President Bush
signed a bill banning all imports — the bulk were garments — in
July 2003 in response to a crackdown by the country’s military
dictatorship on the democratically elected opposition.
Deteriorating human rights conditions had prompted U.S. retailers and apparel importers to voluntarily halt business with
Myanmar, where the military invested in garment production.
● QUIKSILVER VOLLEY: Quiksilver Inc. has signed a deal with
the AVP Pro Beach Volleyball Tour to sponsor the AVP’s first
youth initiative. Quiksilver will sponsor 20 youth events around
the U.S., including clinics, camps and tournaments, and will also
have co-branded products on site at each event.
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005 3
WWD.COM
COCKED AND LOADED: It looks like Hearst will win the race to bring a
British-style weekly men’s magazine to the U.S. At a focus group this
week in New York, participants were shown two different prototypes for
a new title called Bullet. According to a source who saw one of the
prototypes, the editorial content consisted of photos of scantily clad
women, real-life action stories, sports news and TV listings. It did not, however, feature any nudity — a
staple of Nuts and Zoo, the successful men’s weeklies started last year in the U.K. “It was very Maxim
looking,” said the source — hardly surprising, given that the project is being headed up by Keith
Blanchard, Maxim’s former editor in chief. Collaborating with him on it is Todd Detweiler, another Maxim
veteran who most recently worked in Rolling Stone’s art department. The focus group members were
asked how willing they would be to buy Bullet at two different price points, $1.99 and $2.99.
Another former Maxim editor in chief, Mark Golin, is said to be working on a weekly men’s title at Time
Inc. (which publishes Nuts through its U.K. subsidiary, IPC). According to two sources familiar with that
project, it is nowhere near a launch, but another start-up Golin is overseeing — a Web site that would be
aimed at the same audience of young men — is close to getting the green light. — Jeff Bercovici
The World of JLo
To Bow at Field’s
MEMO PAD
By Beth Wilson
Roman Polanski
THE SEDUCTION CHRONICLES: On Wednesday in London,
Lewis Lapham, editor of Harper’s, took the stand as a
witness for the defense in Roman Polanski’s libel action
against Vanity Fair. The case, which started on Monday
and is set to last five to seven days, is the first in the U.K.
where a claimant is taking part in a libel trial by video link
from outside the country.
Lapham had originally told VF in a 2002 article about
New York restaurant Elaine’s that Polanski had made
certain sexual overtures to a Norwegian model a few
weeks after his wife Sharon Tate’s murder in 1969. On
Wednesday in London’s High Court, Lapham replayed the
night in question, saying Polanski walked into Elaine’s, sat
down at his table, and started talking to model Beatte
Telle. “He began to talk to her in a forward way,” Lapham
told the jury. “At one point he had his hand on her leg and
said to her: ‘I can put you in the movies, I can make you
the next Sharon Tate.’” Lapham said he remembered the
words because they were “tasteless and vulgar.”
Polanski testified from Paris earlier this week refuting
the story, and on Tuesday, Mia Farrow corroborated his
version of the events. While Polanski has refused to
appear in court for fear of arrest and extradition to the
U.S., he and his lawyers made a wise choice of country in
which to sue. The U.K. libel laws are far more stringent
than those in the U.S., and favor the plaintiff rather than
the defendant. — Samantha Conti
Standard & Poor’s Ups Saks Debt Rating
NEW YORK — Standard & Poor’s on Wednesday raised its debt rating on Saks Inc., which is under
investigation by the Securities and Exchange Commission and federal prosecutors, citing a tender
offer that cut debt by $585 million.
The ratings remain on review and could be affected by future developments, including the expected sale of the retailer’s northern group of department stores. Belk Inc. bought the southern
group — Proffitt’s and McRae’s — for $622 million and assumed $1 million in capitalized leases and
other liabilities. S&P raised Saks’ corporate credit and senior unsecured debt ratings to “B+,” the
fourth-highest junk rating, from “CCC+.”
A majority of creditors holding Saks Inc. debt agreed this month to a waiver of default and
amendments related to the retailer’s tender offers and consent solicitations announced in June.
Saks Inc. is under investigation for its chargebacks policy and is working to restate earnings. The
company has until Oct. 31 to file its annual report.
In a separate development, Saks said it will expand its 47,000-square-foot store in the Waterside
Shops in Naples, Fla., by 20,000 square feet. The expansion, expected to be done by fall 2007, is part
of a strategy of “focusing our resources on our more productive units,” Saks said in a statement.
It could also be a response to Nordstrom Inc., which has signed a letter of intent to open a twolevel, 80,000-square-foot store in the same center. Nordstrom may open there in fall 2007 or spring
2008. Nordstrom is also opening at the Gardens Mall in Palm Beach Gardens in March, and at
Aventura Mall in north Miami in fall 2007.
— David Moin
FULLER PHOTO BY JAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE; POLANSKI BY JEAN BAPTISTE LACROIX/WIREIMAGE
OVERSHARING: Bonnie Fuller is not much for long-form
Bonnie
journalism, but long book titles are apparently another story.
Fuller
As of this week, her long-awaited memoir-slash-self-help
volume not only has a publication date — April 11, 2006 —
but a new title: “The Joys of Much Too Much: Go For the Big
Life — The Great Career, The Perfect Guy and Everything
Else You Ever Wanted (Even If You’re Afraid You Don’t Have
What It Takes).” Including the part in parenthesis, which will
appear on the cover but won’t be part of the book’s official
title, that comes out to 33 words — three longer than its
original working title, “From Geek to Oh My Goddess: How to
Get the Big Career and the Big Love Life and the Big Family
— Even If You Have a Big Loser Complex Inside.”
Fuller started work on the book, which will be published
by Simon & Schuster’s Fireside imprint, shortly after leaving
Glamour in 2001. Since then, she has changed jobs twice,
becoming editor in chief of Us Weekly, then editorial
director of American Media. “I draw from my own
experiences, and I talk about the experiences of some other
women I know, too,” said Fuller of the manuscript.
Two words that won’t appear on the cover are Pat
Mulcahey — the name of the book’s ghostwriter. According
to a Simon & Schuster source, a draft that Fuller and
Mulcahey turned in last year was edited “from top to
bottom.” A spokeswoman for the publisher declined to comment on the editing process, saying, “The
book that we’ve got now is the book we’ve always wanted.” — J.B.
CHICAGO — After opening its
first boutique in Moscow last
year, JLo by Jennifer Lopez is
going domestic, launching its
store-within-a-store lifestyle
concept at Marshall Field’s
flagship State Street location
here in the fall.
“This is the first shop we’re
going to have in the States that
has all our categories in one
place,” said Andy Hilfiger,
president and co-founder of
Sweetface Fashions, the masterbrand company for JLo. “It
will be the world of JLo.”
Modeled after the 2,850square-foot Moscow store,
the 500- to 600-square-foot
State Street space will boast
everything JLo — sportswear,
Jennifer
jewelr y, handbags, fraLopez
grances, lingerie and sunglasses. Lopez herself is set to christen the boutique during a
public appearance and fashion show highlighting both JLo and
Sweetface, her higher-priced line. The event on Sept. 22 is to benefit Chicago’s Children’s Memorial Hospital.
“This [store-within-a-store concept] is a great way to showcase
the product in one area,” said Hilfiger, noting he hopes to open
similar locations elsewhere.
The JLo shop will be housed in Marshall Field’s young contemporary area.
“This will be the beginning of a full rollout,” Hilfiger said.
Although the company does not have immediate plans to open
other in-store shops, Hilfiger said New York, San Francisco, Los
Angeles and Miami are all on his “wish list.”
The JLo name has been aggressively licensed the past several
years, amassing about a dozen categories, including successful
JLo outerwear, lingerie, fragrances and costume jewelry. In a
deal with Lancaster, Lopez has launched four fragrances, namely
Glow, Still, Miami Glow and Live Jennifer Lopez, which will hit
stores in October. Lopez, in fact, racked up first-year global sales
of $100 million with her maiden fragrance, Glow.
During the past year, Lopez has expanded her involvement in
the design and business operations of her company, which began
in 2001. In February, she launched Sweetface, her better contemporary collection, on the New York runways with much hoopla.
Her inaugural holiday collection was filled with cashmere
sweaters, houndstooth slacks, baby-doll tops, velvet jackets, fox
furs and crystal-speckled fedoras.
“JLo was a great way to start, to get ourselves in there with a
younger customer,” Lopez said in January. “We’ve been successful. We have all our licenses in place. Now we’re ready to move
on to that next level. It’s just about making a smaller line, with
better quality and better fabrics.”
Opening the first concept store at Marshall Field’s has been
under discussion for the past six months, Hilfiger said. “I’ve always
loved the [Field’s flagship] store. When we had the chance to partner
up with Marshall Field’s, I was all over it. It’s a real iconic store.”
For Field’s, launching JLo’s new U.S. presence is a coup.
“Obviously, we’re ecstatic,” said Natalie Bushaw, Marshall
Field’s publicity manager, who said the shop would be called the
World of JLo. “We’re thrilled to be the first retailer in the United
States to have the World of JLo shop and we’re eager for our
guests to be able to experience it.”
Ralph Hughes, Field’s regional director, was out of the country and unavailable for comment.
Like the Moscow boutique located in the luxe Crocus City Mall
(Russia’s answer to the luxurious Bal Harbour Shops in Florida),
the Chicago location was designed by Robin Kramer of The
Kramer Group, featuring dusky pink quilted suede walls, white
patent leather ottomans, golden mirrors, stainless steel detailing
and painted pink surfaces.
“It’s very reflective of Jennifer and her tastes,” Hilfiger said.
Price points range from $39 for a knit top to $300 for a leather
jacket. Denim, which makes up 25 percent of the merchandise at
Field’s, ranges from $69 to $125, Hilfiger said. Sweetface will be
carried by Field’s in the designer area, beginning in holiday.
State Street’s inventory is to be similar to the Moscow location,
with some exclusive products.
“We’re excited,” Hilfiger said, noting that the Moscow store
continues to post strong numbers. He did not disclose them.
Chip Rosen, vice president, global licensing and marketing for
Sweetface, estimated sales at the Moscow boutique at about
$1,000 per square foot.
4
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005
WWD.COM
Bravo Cashes $14.2M Roberto Cavalli in Fine Spirits
In Burberry Options
By Marc Karimzadeh
LONDON — Rose Marie Bravo, chief executive officer of Burberry, bulked up her
bank account by 8.2 million pounds, or
$14.2 million, after cashing in stock options this week, the company said.
Bravo, who is paid in dollars, received
the options as part of a bonus plan when
the company was listed on the London
Stock Exchange in 2002, a Burberr y
spokeswoman said. She still holds 2.5 million Burberry shares, worth almost 11 million pounds, or $19 million.
All figures have been converted from
the pound at current exchange.
Burberry said in a statement that Bravo
had chosen to take advantage of a new coinvestment plan for senior management
and company directors that is partly intended as an incentive to keep executives.
Bravo agreed to invest $1.3 million, her
bonus last year, buying shares in the co-investment plan. The company will match
that investment up to 1.6 times the initial
sum. For example, for every 100 shares an
investor would receive 160.
The plan does not vest for another three
years, which means that Bravo would have
to remain at Burberry for at least that period to get the full benefit. That might dampen speculation that Bravo would leave
Burberry and return to the U.S. — possibly
as a successor to Paul Charron, chairman
and ceo of Liz Claiborne Inc., whose contract expires on Dec. 31, 2006. Bravo has renewed her contract until June 2006, after
which she will be on a 12-month contract.
Bravo has increased Burberry’s market
share tenfold since arriving eight years
ago. She was paid almost $15 million in
stock options, salary, bonus, benefits and
Rose Marie Bravo
allowances in the fiscal year ended March
31, according to the company’s 2004-2005
annual report issued last month, and
cashed in stock options worth a total of $11
million in the last fiscal year.
Burberry, which reported a 9.6 percent
sales boost to 113.7 million pounds, or
$200.1 million in the first quarter ended
June 30, will open its first store in Turkey
at the end of August.
The store, which spans 7,344 square
feet over two floors, will be located on
Istanbul’s Bagdat Street, and will sell the
Prorsum and London collections as well as
the full range of Burberry accessories.
“The Turkish market represents an exciting development potential for Burberry,”
Bravo said in a statement. “This prime retail location in one of the city’s most distinguished shopping areas gives us an exciting opportunity to showcase our comprehensive product portfolio to the region's sophisticated customer base.”
Ruiz de la Prada Brings Bold Palette to U.S.
NEW YORK — Don’t tell Agatha Ruiz de la Prada that black
Ruiz de
is back.
la Prada
The Spanish designer, who in the fall plans to open a
brings a
2,000-square-foot store at 135 Wooster Street in SoHo here,
touch of
has never met a color she didn’t like. The boutique will be
humor to
the first in the U.S. for Ruiz de la Prada, who puts her bold,
her
colorful stamp on products from women’s and children’s
designs.
clothing to dog beds to toothbrushes.
Already well known in Europe where she operates stores
in Madrid, Paris, Milan, The Hague and Barcelona, Ruiz de
la Prada said she is exploring opportunities in China.
“The New York store has very big and important implications,” Ruiz de la Prada said in a telephone interview
from her vacation home in Majorca. “It’s more important
for me than Paris. I opened in Paris first because it’s easier
to go to New York if you’re already recognized in Europe.”
Ruiz de la Prada may become a more familiar name in
the U.S. sooner rather than later. The designer has a deal
with Target to sell her Agua perfume in 1,400 of its stores
and indicated that she might sell other products to the
mass merchant.
Ruiz de la Prada said she has worked with some 50 companies. For Swatch, she designed timepieces presented at
the Atlanta Olympic games in 1996. El Corte Ingles, the Spanish department store chain,
commissioned a collection of her clothing, jewelry and housewares.
The designer is also active in the Spanish art scene, exhibiting at Madrid’s museums
and galleries. When she opened her store in
The Agua Agatha fragrance
Madrid in 1993, the designer initiated cultural
to be sold at Target.
discussions with intellectuals, artists and writers,
dubbing the events “Famous Thursdays.’’
She is continuously adding products and exploring new categories.
“I want to do everything,” Ruiz de la Prada
said. “People ask, ‘Do you want to do a restaurant,
a hotel?’ My problem is I can’t say no. Now that I
am beginning to get a little older I’m trying to improve the quality of my merchandise. I’m trying to
do fewer things better instead of a lot of things.”
— Sharon Edelson
Fashion Scoops
SLIMANE SONG: Hedi Slimane has been known to seek
inspiration from the rock scene. Now, Boston-based
indie rock group Keys to the Streets of Fear is
returning the tribute with a song dedicated to the Dior
Homme designer. “Hedi Slimane” is to be released as
a 7-inch vinyl record on Aug. 5. The song features
lyrics such as “I want pants like Hedi Slimane” and
“I want jeans like Hedi Slimane” followed by the
Keys to the Streets of Fear’s
chorus “I want to ---- like Hedi Slimane.”
Hedi Slimane record cover.
If that’s too risqué for U.S. radio stations, there’s
always the French version, also on the record. “One of
the main reasons we did the song in French and English is so that it could get played on
the radio here, since no American DJ will figure out the French words,” said lead singer
Pasquale Timore (wishful thinking).
Beyond entertainment, the group has fashion ambitions. To celebrate the song’s
release, it has approached costume designer Robin Chalfin to rework 10 Antwerp Six
outfits purchased at discount stores such as Century 21. Chalfin took apart the pieces
and put them back together, adding materials like leather and silk. They will be
exhibited at Stel’s boutique in Boston next month.
“Hedi Slimane is rock ’n’ roll,” Timore said. “He and Raf Simons are these little
obsessions of ours. Our drummer is a former haberdasher and we are really into tailoring.”
CAVALLI PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO
By Samantha Conti
NEW YORK — Roberto Cavalli’s work ethic
has slightly changed since his early design
days in the Seventies.
“I used to always design with very loud
music and a bottle of whiskey,” Cavalli recalled over a sole meunière and a glass of
red wine at La Goulue on Manhattan’s Upper
East Side. “Now, alcohol isn’t a part of it anymore. But I sometimes like to sit at my computer at night with a cigar and a vodka.”
Daytime boozing may no longer be part
of the creative process, but Cavalli still
manages to have a lot of fun with fashion.
Last month, the Florentine designer inked
a deal with Playboy Enterprises to reCavalli in his Madison
design the legendary bunny costume.
Avenue boutique.
He is in New York this week to present
his newest venture, Roberto Cavalli Vodka.
At $60 per 750-ml. bottle, the product is positioned at the ultrapremium end
of the vodka price range. Cavalli hopes to make it a main attraction in bars
and nightclubs in the U.S. this fall.
The idea to venture into the spirits business came to him by
chance after showing his wife, Eva, an empty prototype of his
namesake perfume bottle.
“She said, ‘It’s fantastic, what’s in it, vodka?’ and I thought,
I like that idea,” Cavalli said. “All the best ideas always come
by accident.”
After meeting a distiller from Italy’s Piedmont region, he
decided to give the wines and spirits business a try, and began
developing the vodka and designing its bottle.
The vodka uses fine Italian grains from the valleys on the
Po River and pure water from the peak of the Monte Rosa.
Before being bottled, it is filtered through crushed Italian
marble, which helps reduce its acidity.
Roberto
“It’s so pure, so smooth and without that alcohol
Cavalli
smell,” Cavalli said.
Vodka
He drew inspiration from his perfume for the vodka
bottle. It is sandblasted with a snake coiling around its frosted
glass body.
“I designed a beautiful bottle, one that a fancy nightclub
would understand,” Cavalli said. “Today, people want new
things. If you order a Cavalli vodka in a club, you will want to
take the bottle home.”
The snake has particular significance in Cavalli’s life: The
designer staged his comeback in 1994 with a pair of sandwashed jeans with a snakeskin print. He is as well known for his love of wild
animals as he is for his bon vivant ways. Recently, he brought a baby tiger
home, but didn’t keep it for long. “My wife said I couldn’t,” he said, demurely.
The vodka will be launched with a party in Miami in September and will
initially be rolled out to the Florida, New York and California markets. It
will be distributed in the U.S. by Miami-based Southern Wines & Spirits.
Jorge Gutierrez, president of Bay Harbor Islands, Fla.-based Italian
Spirit, which imports the vodka, couldn’t give sales projections, but said
vodka is a fast-growing beverage classification, particularly at the top end.
“There is a trending-up phenomenon in the spirits industry, with customers willing to pay more for quality vodka,” Gutierrez said, adding that, in
2004, 38.7 million 9-l. cases were sold, and 10.4 million were imported.
Cavalli hopes to create limited-edition bottles, some of which could be
wrapped in colorful printed Cavalli silk scarves. His son, Tommaso, is helping him develop Cavalli-branded red wine in Tuscany.
His biggest ambition, however, involves an American icon.
“I would like to redesign Coca-Cola,” Cavalli said. “It’s so old-fashioned,
and I have so many ideas.”
“Too much of
a good thing is
even better.”
Mae West
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6
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005
Slouchy
Tommy
Hilfiger’s
cotton and
spandex
jeans;
Diesel’s
rayon polo.
Stuart
Weitzman
shoes.
Slim
Shagg’s cotton
and Lycra
denim jeans
and Tencel
and cotton T.
Shorter
Joe’s Jeans’
cotton denim
shorts; Shelly
Steffee’s
cotton and
rayon tank.
Beth Frank
watch; DKNY
hosiery.
Shape Shi
Distressed
Cotton and
spandex
capris from
A.B.S. by
Allen
Schwartz;
Shagg’s
cotton T.
Clean
Mavi’s cotton
and spandex
capris; Pink
Dice’s cotton and
rayon tank. Kate
O’Connor scarf.
Maxi
Levi’s
embroidered
and
embellished
cotton denim
skirt; Pink
Dice’s cotton
tank.
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005 7
WWD.COM
NEW YORK — The denim category
continues to play host to a number of
players and, as the game heats up,
the consumer continues to come out
on top. This fall is no exception.
As more brands enter the
category, the variety of silhouettes
swells. Long, voluminous skirts
simultaneously hang with tight,
stretch minis; slouchy boyfriendstyle jeans hang next to sleek
cigarette styles, and ragged
distressed jeans share shelf space
with tailored, trouser-style jeans.
“There are so many players in the
denim arena right now that they can’t
all come up with the same product,”
said Terence Bogan, vice president
of women’s apparel at Barneys Coop. “There is such a wide range of
consumers — tall, short, skinny,
larger-sized — that you don’t want to
alienate a particular size. You have
to accommodate a wide range of ages
and body types.”
Consumers at Henri Bendel can
expect a heavily edited selection of
denim. “There is an abundance of
trends, but we do not buy into all of
them,” said Scott Tepper, fashion
director and divisional merchandise
manager for accessories, apparel and
lingerie. “Some of the newer lines
aren’t offering something new in the
way of trends; they’re just going after
trends that already exist. In the
premium denim market, that doesn’t
work,” he said. For fall, Henri
Bendel is focusing on cleaner styles
and darker washes. “The destroyed
washes are less important to us,” he
said.
At Bloomingdale’s, Kal
Ruttenstein, senior vice president of
ifters
fashion direction, said he trusts the
consumer to lead him through the
fall season. “It’s definitely our job to
edit it down, but the customer will
tell us which direction she’s going in,
and our reorders will round out the
selection,” he said. “Denim is a 12month commodity. We’ve been testing
styles to see if they’ll sell, but we
don’t have a clear feeling as to the
major trends for fall, so we’ll offer a
variety.”
Smaller boutiques are taking the
same approach and stocking their
stores with a varied, but well-edited
array of denim. At Atrium, a
contemporary boutique here,
women’s wear buyer Christine Lee
has the task of buying for edgy,
downtown girls and more
conservative Upper East Side
mothers. “We have to merchandise
our floor so that every customer sees
everything,” she said. “Denim is such
a staple now that it’s infiltrated every
aspect of the fashion business. It
addresses, and touches upon, all
parts of the women’s wear market.
People are buying all looks at every
price level.” At Atrium, Lee tends to
offer the best looks in each trend.
“I think the only way for any denim
company to survive in this realm is to
do one thing and to do it really well,”
she said. “You have to have a point of
view and catch attention to even get
your foot in the door.”
The ante, it seems, has been
upped. “These days, a good fit, fabric
and wash are almost a given,” she
said.
— Lauren DeCarlo
Mini
Thorn’s cotton denim
skirt; Pink Dice’s
cotton and rayon
thermal T.
Longer
Guess
Premium’s
cotton and
spandex
Bermuda
shorts; DDC
Lab’s handpainted cotton
T. Stuart
Weitzman
boots.
Wide
Epoch’s
cotton and
spandex
jeans;
Diesel’s
cotton tank.
Goorin Bros.
cap; Saya
Hibino
earrings.
PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: AMANDA ERICSSON/Q; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL/FRANK ARENDS; MAKEUP BY DAVID TIBOLLA/JUMP; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY
Skinny
Arch Indigo’s
cotton and
Lycra
spandex
jeans; Shelly
Steffee’s
cotton top.
Stuart
Weitzman
boots.
8
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005
WWW.WWD.COM
Denim Dish
Diesel Shepherds New Designers
— Lauren DeCarlo
— Luisa Zargani
PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER
Acid-wash jeans have joined legwarmers and offthe-shoulder sweatshirts as the latest revival from
the Eighties.
Red Engine, a Los Angeles-based denim company,
has introduced the 80s Wash, an updated take on the
acid-wash style popular 20 years ago.
During the Eighties, Jim Boldes, founder and
president of Red Engine, was head of production at
Guess Jeans.
“When I was at Guess, I was making millions of
[acid-wash jeans],” he said. “So, I went to my library
and started playing around with that look.”
The technique Boldes uses in the updated version is
treated with stones to achieve a variegated, watercolor
effect. The wash also incorporates finishing techniques
such as hand-sanding, tacking and grinding by hand.
The 80s Wash, wholesaling for $75, has been introduced as a fashion item and will appear only in one
style, the “115,” Red Engine’s best-selling fit. It is a
basic five-pocket stretch style and is sold in stores
such as Kitson and Fred Segal in Los Angeles.
Boldes knows the acid-wash look isn’t for everyone, but he’s having fun with his experiment.
“We’ll run with it and see what happens,” he said.
“If it sells, we’ll do more. But it’s just a fun thing to
put out there.”
Even after a near-sleepless night partying with friends and an early
morning helicopter flight to Trieste, Diesel owner Renzo Rosso seemed
to be loving it all — catching up with the young designers at the Hotel
Riviera on the city’s coast line, the thrill of searching for new talent and
the knowledge of actively shaping their futures.
“Supporting new designers is part of our DNA,” Rosso said. “We now
list 55 designers working at Diesel and we grow thanks to their pure,
new and always-fresh creativity.”
It is this quest for creativity that spurred Rosso to endorse the
International Talent Support program four years ago. Every year, the
ITS Diesel Award grants $3,000, or 2,500 euros at current exchange
rates, and produces five pieces labeled with the name of the winner,
which are sold at main Diesel stores around the world.
“We are not looking for experienced designers,” Rosso said. “We believe in grooming [creativity], and when you
discover new talents, they are faithful and
loyal to you.”
Antonio Marras, Antonio Berardi, Wilbert
Barbara Franchin, director and project suDas and Renzo Rosso seated in front.
pervisor of EVE agency, which organizes ITS,
said designers this year sent projects revolving around death and its symbols, such as
skeletons, closed mouths, covered heads, red stitching or, entirely on the other end of the
spectrum, flowers and butterflies, as well as “a downpour of denim, which works well in
so many different ways, is not too costly and can be produced anywhere,” she said.
Franchin said that she was proud of the relationship built with the fashion houses
and that a number of previous contestants were working for Dolce & Gabbana, Yohji
Yamamoto, Versace and Moschino, among others.
Organizers said the number of applicant designers this year grew to 700, from 70
countries and 174 schools around the world, compared with 460 in 2002. While ITS introduced a photography award sponsored by MINI International this year, Rosso said
he was planning on adding awards for the interior design and accessories categories,
including jewels, next year.
ITS Four was held July 14-17 and, on the last evening, the 21 finalists staged a runway show presenting a selection of their collections. The winners were announced
after the event: Marcus Lereng Wilmont of Denmark, who studied at the English Royal
College of Art and School of Fashion & Textiles, won the Collection of the Year Award
and $24,000, or 20,000 euros. His men in skirts blended European tailoring with
Eastern tradition. Fine wools, leather and silks contrasted with exotic materials such
as horse hair, metallic embroidery threads, embossed heraldry and antique buttons.
Israeli Eli Effenberger took the Special Jury prize grant of $6,000, or 5,000 euros, and
the Maria Luisa Award — a dedicated window at the Paris Maria Luisa boutique — with
her striking illustrations and oversized kimonos made from Victorian tailcoat suits.
The Diesel Award went to the German Christoph Froehlich and his deconstructed
men’s wear pieces. I-D Styling Award, Ingeo Sustainability Award, WGSN Best
Portfolio and Le Book Award were the other prizes granted by ITS.
“It was a great and comprehensive collection, ready to be shipped to stores,” said
A look from Marcus
Franco Pene, chairman of Gibò, who was one of 18 jurors, along with designers Antonio
Lereng Wilmont, ITS Four Berardi and Antonio Marras, Diesel creative director Wilbert Das, John Galliano studio head Elisa Palomino and Maria Luisa Poumaillou, owner of Maria Luisa boutique.
Collection of the Year
Berardi said this contest was “much needed” at a time when “older designers don’t
Award winner.
leave space” and Milan looks old.
“Miuccia Prada is the only one that always
pushes the boundaries and doesn’t play safe,” said
the designer, who has decided to start showing in
Paris in the fall. “There is an amazing level of design, with students [overturning] preconceptions
related to their birth place. You would never guess
in a million years the nationality of the Indian designer [Neelanjan Ghosh] by looking at his collection, as there’s none of the expected ethnic traits
or embroideries.”
PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI
Red Engine’s
80s Wash jeans.
Acid Wash Redux
Velda Colthurst knows firsthand that Brooklyn women don’t enjoy
trudging into Manhattan to shop at department stores.
Colthurst, herself a Brooklynite, also knows that finding jeans
that fit is a chore. She is providing a remedy with Clothier Bklyn, a
denim boutique in the borough’s Park Slope neighborhood that had
a grand opening on Tuesday.
“Women in Brooklyn don’t usually want to leave, so I figured, why not
bring it to them?” said Colthurst, who spent six years as a client associate for cosmetics firm Aveda and also worked as a personal shopper.
Most of the 1,500-square-foot store is devoted to premium denim brands, including Chip & Pepper, Joe’s Jeans, Land Lubber, Frankie B., Seven For All Mankind,
True Religion and Yanuk. The store carries eight brands, with more on the way for
the fall. Colthurst said she anticipates getting to a point where the store carries 15
brands on average at price points of as much as $200. The store also offers a limited
selection of accessories, designer T-shirts and dresses.
Colthurst said when picking new lines, she is after the latest brands and the best
fits. She must also cater to a customer who doesn’t fit into just one demographic.
“I think it is different from the Manhattan crowd because there are so many different cultures in Brooklyn,” Colthurst said. “I tried to cater to everyone.”
She said this means making sure the shelves are stocked with more than the latest low-rise cut.
The opening festivities were three years in the making, because “I wanted to take
my time and do it right,” Colthurst said.
One of the biggest decisions was where to locate. Colthurst narrowed the potential
sites to the hipster haven of Williamsburg and the still hip but less punky Park Slope,
then conducted her own field observations.
“I sat in a diner in Williamsburg for about a month and did the same in Park Slope,”
she recalled. “More people dined in Williamsburg than they shopped. In Park Slope, they
did more shopping.”
Park Slope has become a home for contemporary boutiques. Clothiers Bklyn is sit-
PHOTOS BY JASMIN CURTH
A Boutique Grows in Brooklyn
Clothier’s denim display, here, and store owner Velda Colthurst, insert.
uated in the midst of a neighborhood of more than 35,000 people with a median age of
33.8, according to the Web site Usazip.info. The majority of residents are 20 to 45 years
old. In 1999, the median household income hovered at just less than $50,000. This
doesn’t include the equally trendy Carroll Gardens area next door and the affluent
Brooklyn Heights neighborhood a short subway ride away.
Colthurst decided to cater to women only. “Men usually shop once and in bulk,”
she said. “Women pick up pieces over time, which is what we’re looking for.”
— Ross Tucker
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005 9
WWD.COM
The Beat
Annett B. Calls It a Day
NEW YORK — Annette Breindel, owner of the Annett
B. Showroom, has had one essential rule for 25 years.
“I won’t talk to you unless you bring me your
clothes,” said Breindel matter-of-factly. That was her
response to designers seeking representation in 1980,
and it was the same response she gave designers in
2005. “I just won’t look at their book. I need to see the
clothes in person.”
Breindel closed her showroom on June 30 after 25
years in the business. During her career, she cultivated contemporary labels such as Anna Sui, Jill Stuart,
Rebecca Taylor and Nanette Lepore, among many
others. She said the end of her career is bittersweet.
“It’s an obsessive business, an addictive business,”
she said sipping coffee at the lone table in her showroom here at 214 West 39th Street, days before she
locked the doors for good. She named the showroom
Annett B., sans the “e” on her first name, simply because “it made for a better business card,” she said.
The seventh floor space was barren. Wall racks were
vacant and stacked boxes were packed for the movers
who would cart them to Breindel’s TriBeCa apartment.
As Breindel recalled the events of more than two
decades, she laughed at certain memories and shed
tears for others. She spoke candidly about her relationships with designers and about the industry.
Breindel grew up in the North Bronx. During summer vacations from high school, which she attended
with the late Oscar-winning actress Anne Brancroft,
she was a waitress at local restaurants and would
Annette Breindel in
save $1,000 each summer and head to Fifth Avenue
her TriBeCa home.
boutiques to stock her closet for fall. She splurged on
plaid coats with fur collars, long velvet dresses and
cashmere suits.
“I could name every designer in Loehmann’s,” she
said, proudly. “I got my entire education there.”
Briendel said every weekend girls from the neighborhood would borrow her clothes for dates and
every Sunday morning they would return them and
gossip about their boyfriends. From there, her love of
fashion was sparked.
She married immediately after high school and later spent two and a half years in
the West Indies with her husband and four children. But when the marriage ended,
Breindel moved with the children to TriBeCa. In 1971 she joined the feminist group
The Radical Feminist, and in 1980 began merchandising for designer BJ Berti.
“She’s the one who really got me into this business,” Breindel said. “I learned how
to be an effective merchandiser and how to improve her design.” At that point, she officially opened the Annett B. Showroom.
“I really had a conviction that I wanted to have people bring designers to me,” she
said of her strategy. “I would never approach another designer in another showroom.
That seemed unethical to me.”
In 1988, a new designer, Anna Sui, contacted her.
“Anna called and said, ‘My rep thinks I should talk to you,’ so she came in and just
brought her book,” Breindel said, at this point reiterating her rule. “After I saw her
clothes, I flipped out. She was extraordinarily talented,” Breindel said, but added
that Sui’s sales were struggling so they tried to figure out why.
“There were complaints about the fit,” Breindel said. “It simply wasn’t good
enough.” After some adjustments, Sui designed a group of vests, blouses and fitted
pants. “That was probably the best group she’s ever done,” Breindel said. “She sold
more than she’d ever sold. That started her on a roll. She really trusted my input.”
Sui was with Breindel for 10 years or, more importantly, until Breindel signed a
new client, Jill Stuart.
“Anna always said she wasn’t going to leave, that she had no intention of having
her own showroom,” Breindel said. “But when Jill came, Jill’s line took off like a bat
out of hell. She has an uptown sensibility, and she’s a quick learner. Her line started
getting hot very fast,” Breindel recalled. “Things got intense. Anna is an extremely
loyal person, and one of the most honorable people I’ve ever met.”
When the competition between Sui and Stuart heated up, Breindel said Sui didn’t
think there was room for both of them at the showroom. Sui, Breindel said, felt protective of her designs and feared being copied. “Anna really believes she invented the
kilt. The kilt has been around for thousands of years!” Breindel said.
Breindel was forced to choose between them. “If I could never launch anyone else
what would happen to my career?” Breindel said she asked herself at the time. She
debated at length whether to stick with Sui and have “just one famous designer,” as
she put it, or if she should do what she really believed was in her best interest.
“I actually went to a career counselor at the time,” Breindel said. She decided to
keep Stuart, resulting in Sui’s departure.
“She would never speak to me again,” Breindel said, her eyes reflecting the emotion of
the memory. “I cared about Anna and appreciated her talent, ethics and loyalty.”
Sui was unavailable for comment.
Stuart remained at the Annett B. Showroom for the next three years.
“It’s always a tremendous letdown [when designers leave the showroom], but an
expected one,” Breindel said. “It definitely comes as a blow, even though it’s expected, because you become dependent on the income.”
The more well-known designers she represented gave her the financial freedom
PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO
By Lauren DeCarlo
It’s always a tremendous letdown [when designers leave the
“showroom],
but an expected one. It definitely comes as a blow, even
though it’s expected, because you become dependent on the income.
”
— Annette Breindel, Annett B. Showroom
to take on start-up designers. “It’s like an art gallery in that way,’’ she said. “You can
invest in the smaller companies that weren’t doing as well while the main income
subsidized them.”
Even when successful companies left the showroom, Breindel never sought to retain a piece of the action. “If other designers in the company were aware of that, I
thought they would feel like I had my own interest at heart before theirs,” she said.
Nanette Lepore sought out Breindel after her collection had been out for a few
years but wasn’t very profitable. “I loved what I saw, but I said, ‘Pajamas for $650?’ ”
Breindel said. “She needed to bring her prices way down to the contemporary level.
Nanette would probably remember me as changing every button [on her designs],”
Breindel said, laughing.
Lepore said she had to beg Breindel to carry her line. “She would really make the
line go,” Lepore said. “She had really great lines in there, and we were very happy to
be a part of the mix. Buyers respected her. If she had the line, buyers would go for it.”
Lepore said her company was in debt before joining the showroom. “Within two
years, she turned it around. She knew how to merchandise. She could tell who had
talent and who didn’t. She didn’t take you unless she thought you had the potential.”
Rebecca Taylor was another designer who honed her skills with Breindel. “She
was practical, smart, motivated — I instantly took her,” Breindel said.
Her best years were probably between 1988 and 1998, Breindel said, when she
boasted brands such as Anna Sui, Jill Stuart, Nanette Lepore and Chaiken & Capone.
Even in 1987, during the recession, Breindel said she was doing well.
Her biggest mistake? “Denim,” she said. “Even if there were 20 jeans lines out
there, you can always have 21. I didn’t see that, and it was a mistake,” she said, adding
that she was amazed at the influx of denim brands in today’s contemporary market.
“It surprises me that there are so many denim lines doing the same thing. I think
denim has ruined the contemporary market. People have put so much of their budget
into jeans and tops that designers are really discouraged to do much else,” she said.
Breindel also noted that through the years, she’s witnessed the shift in the contemporary
market, geographically. “There used to be many more key players in New York, and L.A.
was thought of as sweat clothes and junk, but now, California is extremely key,” she said.
In recent years, the showroom housed contemporary labels such as A. Cheng, Saja,
Doma and Leah Kes. Before she closed shop, Breindel arranged for the industry’s top
showrooms to view her lines so they might ultimately represent them, but at press
time wasn’t certain if any deals materialized.
Weeks later in Breindel’s TriBeCa high-rise apartment overlooking Lower
Manhattan and the Hudson River, she discussed plans for the future. “Maybe I’d do
some consulting — if people approached me,” she said. She is also considering teaching or writing. “Everyone is encouraging me to teach,” she said.
Contemplating the future of the contemporary market, Breindel said, “Anna [Sui]
is here to stay. She’ll go down in fashion history. Nanette Lepore knows what you have
to do to make money and Rebecca Taylor is enormously creative and smart.”
After a pause, she added a final bit of wisdom: “You have a shelf life of about two
seconds in this business if you’re not famous.”
10
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005
WWD.COM
Active LifestyleX
Swim Fights Slump With Fashion
By Georgia Lee
MIAMI BEACH — Combine the sheer volume of almost round-the-clock swimwear
shows and parties with the usual excess
of the South Beach scene, and it’s hard
to tell that the swim category has had
a tough year.
“The city screamed swimwear,”
said Judy Stein, executive director of
SwimShow 2006, sponsored by the
Swimwear Association of Florida,
which moved to the Miami Beach
Convention Center for the first time
this year after outgrowing its former
venue at the Radisson International
Mart Centre.
The new venue added space,
and exhibitors grew to 350 from
300, with a 15 percent gain in buyers compared with last year, Stein
said. The show ran July 16-20.
Adding to the buzz, IMG, producers of New York’s 7th on
Sixth shows, imported the concept to Miami with the
Sunglass Hut Swim Shows
Miami presented by Lycra. It
featured 12 individual fashion
swimwear shows from lines
such as Speedo, Becca, Inca,
Sais by Rosa Chá, Cosabella,
Red Carter, Carmen Marc
Valvo and Gideon Oberson,
and a multiline event
sponsored by Lycra.
The shows drew
1,000 people a day,
including media
Carmen Marc Valvo
such as Sports Illustrated, Marie Claire
and WE network’s
“Full Frontal Fashion.”
With the pulsing music and
lighting, the shows attracted a
handful of celebrities, including Damon
Dash, owner of Rocawear, and producer
Pharrell Williams, who were both at the Inca
show Saturday night. For Inca, the event, plus
the trade show, was a $100,000 investment, said
Gideon Oberson
Stacy Deutsch, Inca’s co-owner along with designer Stephanie Hirsch.
“We decided, if we did it, we were going to do it right,” Deutsch said.
For Cosabella, the 25-year-old lingerie company that launched a swimwear collection last year, the fashion show represented a commitment to grow swimwear, especially for the U.S. market, after a strong first-year reception in Italy, according to Ugo
Campello, vice president.
Nonetheless, some retailers, while acknowledging the excitement of the tent
shows, questioned how the buzz would translate into sales.
“The party line is that it’s good for the industry, but it’s overkill,” said Coni Sutter,
owner of The Beach House of Naples, which has two stores in Naples, Fla. “Even
with all the media there, when will the consumer see it, and how will it help sales at
this time of year?”
This spring was a dismal one for swimwear at retail, with many retailers not seeing sales until late June, when the weather finally turned hot in the Northeast after
cooler-than-usual temperatures for much of the season. Women’s swimwear sales
were $2.2 billion from May 2004 to April 2005, the same as the year before, according
to NPD Group, a research firm based in Port Washington, N.Y.
Fern Mallis, executive director and vice president of IMG, said she was pleased with
the synergy of Miami Beach, swimwear and fashion, adding that the event would contin-
INCA PHOTO BY SETH BROWARNIK/RED EYE PRODUCTIONS; ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY ROBERT CLARK
The U.S.
Olympic
Synchronized
Swim Team
performed at
the Speedo
show.
ue next year with more designers participating, though there
will be tweaking of details.
At the larger trade show,
manufacturers and retailers
were bullish, despite a tough
year and increased competition from specialty chains
such as H&M and Old Navy.
Alluding to further acquisitions, big companies continue
to build brand portfolios that
let them hone in on hot categories or niche markets.
Future investments range from
licensing deals that add brand
prestige, to developing house
brands that are cheaper and
allowing more flexibility in
production and design. Many
are extending brands to include accessories, shoes or fitness equipment, and are offering more deliveries. Swimwear
marketing and advertising
budgets continue to grow.
Speedo, which is distributed in North America by
Warnaco Swim Group, had a
big presence in Miami. In adRed Carter
dition to 1,500 square feet of
exhibit space at the convention center. Speedo held a
multimedia show Saturday
night at poolside at the
Raleigh Hotel that included a
fashion show, a performance
by the Olympic synchronized
Inca
swim team and an appearance by Olympic gold medalist Amanda Beard.
At the show, specialty swim retailers concentrated on the high-end
looks, leaving the basics and commodity-driven product to department stores, discounters and
chains that have jumped on
swimwear in recent years.
Retailers applauded manufacturers for offering more variety and less repetition than
usual. Still, trends fell into
three basic themes that reflect
current ready-to -wear and
sportswear influences.
● Bohemian/ethnic: African,
Indian, Indonesian cultures combine with hippie influences
such as tunics and caftans.
● Glitz/bling: Jeweled
accents, from crystals to
rhinestones and sequins, as
necklines or belts, on gold
Norma Kamali at
or white bikinis or onethe Xtra Life Lycra
piece suits with deep
group show.
plunging necklines. The return of the monokini and
other one-piece silhouettes with center cutouts.
● Bathing beauties: Ultrafeminine, soft and whimsical, includes polkadots, ruffles
and shirring. Sheer chiffon cover-ups including pareos, skirts and ponchos.
Bridget Quinn Stickline, general merchandise manager of Water Water
Everywhere, an Owings Mills, Md., swimwear chain with 20 stores, shopped for cruise
with an aggressive sales plan, despite flat sales this year. “We’re committed to staying
ahead, seeing product early and pushing for first deliveries,” she said.
Concentrating on contemporary, her best category, she bought the new Michael
Kors line, as well as La Blanca, Anne Cole and Ralph Lauren.
While she bought brown, the dominant color in the market, she pursued color, concerned that brown would make departments too dark and turn off consumers. She
noted missed opportunities in good plus-size swimwear.
“Nobody’s doing it right,” she said. “We need more good product that is an extension of the regular brands. We never have enough to test data and see how it works.
Stacey Siegel, owner of Everything But Water in Orlando, with 40 stores nationwide,
liked the variety of the show, which allowed buyers to mix separates from individual
vendors. She bought African- and Indian-inspired looks from Becca, and similar
themes from Rampage and W, in chocolate brown. She also bought glitzy jeweled and
crystal embellished suits from Luli Fama and open jeweled caftans and tunics by Inca.
She also bought more monokinis, a top seller this year, from Vix.
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005 11
WWD.COM
TheWWDList
Spanning the Retail Globe
The most attractive emerging countries for global retail expansion.
Retailers are always looking for new hot spots. Global management consulting firm
A.T. Kearney’s annual study of ideal regions for global expansion analyzes development
via its Global Retail Development Index, with specific focus on grocers and apparel
retailers entering emerging markets. Much of a retailer’s expansion is about timing, a
key feature in this study. “There is a window of opportunity of five to six years to enter
an emerging market,” said Fadi Farra, senior manager at A.T. Kearney and author of
the GRDI study. “If you miss that window, there’s a good chance you will not succeed.”
In addition to timing, the GRDI analyzes three other measures: market saturation,
market attractiveness and country (economic and political) risk. — Cecily Hall
INDIA
1
Global Retail Development Index Score: 100
Fadi Farra of A.T. Kearney said India’s GRDI score has been rising for the past few years. “It’s mainly because of the basics. It’s the second-largest
population in the world, and the country did more than $300 billion in retail sales last year, $61 billion of which was apparel. Retail apparel sales are
expected to grow to $100 billion by 2010.” Farra also noted, “Women are starting to enter into the workforce in India. They are starting to wear nicer
clothing in the workplace, which increases spending incentive.”
RUSSIA
2
GRDI Score: 99
Even upscale retailers like Burberry, which opened its second Russian store in Moscow in 2004, are moving into the world’s largest country in terms of
area. Why? “Russia is heavily populated, and it is an example of where consumers are shifting from foods to nonfoods,” Farra said. “Even further, there
is a stronger interest in — and awareness of — Western style than you would imagine.”
UKRAINE
3
GRDI Score: 87
As part of a retail expansion program for Eastern Europe, Giorgio Armani was on the move with store openings back in 2002, WWD reported. The
effort included a store in Ukraine: In the capital of Kiev, Armani opened a 3,456-square-foot freestanding Armani Collezioni store. Charriol, the fine
jewelry and watch outfit, has made its entry into Kiev, opening a store in June.
CHINA
4
GRDI Score: 83
China, the world’s most populous nation, is a hotbed of activity. Two of the world’s largest retailers are competing for attention. Wal-Mart is shifting its
expansion into high gear there, with 47 openings in China to date. But it faces competition from France’s hypermarket chain, Carrefour SA, which has 61
stores in China. The GRDI study stated that China has a $628 billion retail market that is growing more than 9 percent each year.
PHOTOS: INDIA BY P. PET/CORBIS; RUSSIA BY JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS; UKRAINE BY GOEBEL/CORBIS; CHINA BY DALLAS & JOHN HEATON/CORBIS; SLOVENIA BY L. JANICEK/CORBIS; LATVIA BY FRANZ-MARC FREI/CORBIS; CROATIA
BY PETER ADAMS/CORBIS; VIETNAM BY TIBOR BOGNAR/CORBIS; TURKEY BY LARRY DALE GORDON/CORBIS; SLOVAKIA BY ADAM WOOLFITT/CORBIS; CHILE BY KEREN SU/CORBIS; THAILAND BY JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS
SLOVENIA
5
6
GRDI Score: 82
The GRDI study noted that Slovenia is an attractive destination, partly because of a per capita GDP of $36,405. In addition, its membership in the
European Union has brought growth and stability. Grocers like EuroSpin are entering the marketplace, and H&M, Sweden’s trendy clothing retailer,
said that it has expanded into Slovenia with two stores, one in Maribor city center, and the other in Ljubljana City Park shopping center.
LATVIA
GRDI Score: 81
Bordering the Baltic Sea between Estonia and Lithuania, Latvia’s population totals almost 2.3 million. Finland-based Stockmann Group expanded its
line of Seppälä stores, a fashion and cosmetics chain for women, children and men in Latvia in 2003. Retailers are moving into the capital of Riga. The
first Zara store opened last year, and a new upscale shopping center called Basteja Pasaza has hit the scene in Riga, as well.
CROATIA
7
GRDI Score: 80
Marks & Spencer, based in the U.K., has planted roots in Zagreb, the capital. Zagreb has its fair share of malls, like The Galleria Importanne, an
exclusive shopping center on Ibler Square in the heart of the city. The GRDI study pointed out that the country has a largely urban population and
total retail sales growth of close to 40 percent over the past two years.
VIETNAM
8
9
GRDI Score: 79
The busy streets of Hanoi, Vietnam, whose population exceeds 3 million, are getting even busier: Levi Strauss & Co., the San Francisco-based jeans
and apparel retailer, opened its first franchised jeans outlet in Vietnam in May. The store opened at a shopping center in Hanoi. The company plans to
open more stores. Another recent entrant to the country is Parkson, a Malaysian retail chain, which hopes to build 10 outlets in the next five years.
TURKEY
GRDI Score: 78
The latest news in Turkey is the opening of Burberry’s first store in Istanbul. Ikea, the home furnishings and accessories retailer, opened its first store
in May in Istanbul, as well. “Overall, the Mediterranean region has been fairly attractive,” A.T. Kearney’s Farra said. “The political environment is not
affecting retail, and though retailers have been expanding, the saturation level for Turkey is still quite low.”
SLOVAKIA
10
GRDI Score: 77
Retail powerhouse Tesco expanded in Slovakia this past year with seven openings, including five compact hypermarkets. As a result, U.K.-based Tesco
was named “Top Retailer for 2004,” by the Association of Trade in Slovakia. Activewear giant Quiksilver also has a location in Slovakia. Peter Bloxham,
vice president for Quiksilver Europe, told WWD last year, “Each country offers a different type of potential. It’s the youth culture that drives the
market here.”
CHILE
11
12
GRDI Score: 76
Chile’s GDP per capita is high, and the saturation level of food retailers is being dominated by local companies. “There are virtually no foreign food
retailers in Chile,” said Farra, who pointed out that low foreign saturation levels can heighten the attractiveness of a market. Other nonfood foreign
retailers are making their moves, such as Polo Ralph Lauren, which has six freestanding stores throughout the country.
THAILAND
GRDI Score: 75
The GRDI study said the economic impact of last year’s tsunami disaster has not been as traumatic as initially feared. Tesco is one of the retailers with
the biggest foreign presence in Thailand. There are 107 stores of various formats employing a total of 23,000 people. Tesco’s flagship “green” store in
Bangkok is part of its energy conservation campaign — the store contains solar panels that cover more than half of the roof (the largest rooftop solar
energy system in the region).
SOURCES: A.T. KEARNEY ANALYSIS, EUROMONEY DATABASE, AND WORLD BANK REPORTS. THE GLOBAL RETAIL DEVELOPMENT INDEX RANKS EMERGING COUNTRIES ON THE URGENCY FOR RETAILERS, INCLUDING GROCERY AND APPAREL RETAILERS, TO ENTER THE COUNTRY. THE SCORES ARE BASED ON 25
VARIABLES ACROSS FOUR PRIMARY CATEGORIES: ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL RISK; MARKET ATTRACTIVENESS; MARKET SATURATION; AND TIME PRESSURE (DIFFERENCE OR ADDITION BETWEEN GDP AND MODERN RETAIL AREA GROWTH). FOR AN EXPANDED VERSION OF THIS LIST, GO TO WWD.COM.
12
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005
WWD.COM
Joe Boxer Said to Be Near Sale
Continued from page one
Corp., which carried over the exclusive agreement to sell the brand
when Sears Roebuck & Co. and Kmart Holding Corp. merged this year.
Joe Boxer was founded in 1985 by the flamboyant Nick Graham,
who described his chief executive officer title as “chief underpants
officer.” The company was sold in March 2001 to Westport, Conn.based Windsong Allegiance Group LLC, with Graham retaining an
equity interest. Joe Boxer’s operating assets, trademarks and trade
names were included in the sale to Windsong.
Neither Bill Sweedler, president of
Windsong, nor Sears Holdings could be
reached for comment.
As a subsidiary under Windsong’s umbrella,
Joe Boxer signed a long-term exclusive agreement with Kmart in 2001. The goal was to relaunch the brand with a new line of home and
apparel products. The company targeted the
2002 back-to-school season for the launch.
Joe Boxer was the first major department
store brand to migrate downstream to discounter Kmart, which happened when former
Kmart executive Chuck Conaway took over as
chairman and ceo of the discounter in May
2000. Kmart gained the right to sell and manufacture Joe Boxer products and control the
brand’s entire distribution.
But several months before the b-t-s rollout,
Kmart filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy court
protection. Still, the discounter made good on
its promise to launch Joe Boxer as scheduled.
And in true whimsical, yet attention-grabbing,
Nick Graham-style, the launch took place without a hitch in Kmart’s hometown of Detroit, but with a literal bang as
human cannonballs flew through the air as part of a “fashion show.”
The launch was followed by other festivities, such as a marching
band wearing Joe Boxer shorts parading in the streets around
Kmart’s Astor Place store in Lower Manhattan.
The marketing of the Joe Boxer brand at Kmart even created an instant celebrity, Vaughn Lowery, best known for dancing the “Joe Boxer
Boogie” in a b-t-s television commercial plugging the collection.
Joe Boxer at Kmart — at one point, available at the discounter in
men’s and women’s underwear, loungewear and sleepwear; in
women’s accessories, and select home goods — was considered
groundbreaking due to the brand’s migration from department stores.
Because of a lack of success in luring big-name labels, mass retailers typically rely on proprietary brands to fill the void. Kmart, which
counted on Martha Stewart Everyday as the chain’s biggest volume
brand, was no exception. Other proprietary brands in the Kmart stable at the time included Jaclyn Smith, Route 66 and Kathy Ireland.
Kmart, which exited Chapter 11 in May 2003 as Kmart Holding
Corp., merged in March with Sears, Roebuck & Co. and the new
combined entity operates under the corporate
Joe Boxer umbrella Sears Holdings Corp.
At the time of Windsong’s acquisition, Joe
founder
Nick Graham. Boxer had a wholesale volume of $100 million,
and was sold primarily at department stores,
including Federated Department Stores, May
Department Stores, Saks Inc., Dillard’s and
Marshall Field’s.
Since the Kmart merger with Sears, Joe
Boxer hasn’t had much of a presence at Kmart,
and certainly not in the Sears stores. The
brand has “been cut way back,” according to
one licensing source. The source, who deals
primarily with brands in the mass market
channel, said the plan for Joe Boxer “going forward, will be only in [women’s] intimates and
men’s underwear.”
Kmart did not respond to calls for comment
about its plans for Joe Boxer.
Graham has been working on the Nick(it)
label for J.C. Penney, a collection of British-inspired sportswear for young men. He sold Joe
Boxer after encountering a financial squeeze
that arose from a bitter lawsuit with Van Mar, a former licensee.
Van Mar won a $3.15 million judgment against Boxer in December
2000. The underwear firm found itself unable to pay the judgment because of its lackluster financial condition stemming partly from
Graham’s penchant for costly media events that drained the company’s cash flow.
Aside from Joe Boxer, Windsong owns brands such as Como
Sport, Navy Cutter and New Frontier. The company’s licensed
brands include Geoffrey Beene Sleepwear, Colours by Alexander
Julian and Body by Jake.
Joe Boxer at Kmart
NEW YORK — A spot check at the
Kmart store on 34th Street here
showed the Joe Boxer brand was
well positioned and at attractive
price points in several categories.
But the assortments were not as
deep in comparison to the initial
launch of the brand in 2002.
In women’s, the Joe Boxer
brand was featured on ribbed
tanks for $6.99, shorts for $4.99
and T-shirts for $9.99, as well as
pajama pants for $12.99 and
bras for $9.99.
In men’s wear, the brand was
on about a dozen stockkeeping
units, including a package of
briefs for $11.99, crew shirts for
$9.99 and workout pants for
$11.99, as well as T-shirts for
$9.99. In the children’s wear
section, the brand appeared on
about four items.
On the Kmart Web site, the
offering of Joe Boxer included
about a dozen sku’s in apparel,
jewelry and home goods. In
apparel, the retailer featured
“Printed Boxers” with various
words or designs. The site also
featured innerwear for men,
including classic-style briefs.
Price points ranged from $7.99
to $11.99 and included two,
three and five packs on the
briefs.
The Joe Boxer jewelry line on
the Web site included 14
different watch styles. The home
goods offerings included lamp
shades, lamps and bedding. On
clearance were Joe Boxer purple
sheets for $9.99 to $39.99.
— Sarah Ascione
and Ashley Moore
Italian Fashion Industry Seeks Next Generation of Designers
ROME — In a country where Dolce & Gabbana are
widely considered the latest new designers, the need
to find and support a fresh generation of talent is becoming a priority.
The issue was addressed by the Who Is on Next
award created by Vogue Italia with the support of Alta
Roma, the body that organizes the city’s couture shows.
“We need fresh blood for a new generation of designers and a sense of continuity — the last successful designers are now over 40,’’ said Franca Sozzani, editor in chief
of Vogue Italia. “We offer a negative image in a world that
moves constantly. I’m not so optimistic as to believe that
there will be a big new designer every year, but experimentation creates movement and this is positive.
“Who’s on next? This is what people ask me all the
time and I don’t have an answer,” she added, pointing
out that Paris, on the other hand, can list Olivier
Theyskens and Phoebe Philo, for example, as recent
successful designers.
On July 11, six months after the launch of the contest,
the three winners — Albino, the 6267 label and accessories designer Carlo Alberto Pregnolato —staged their
runway shows at Rome’s Auditorium, designed by
Renzo Piano, where most of the couture shows are held.
The other six finalists, chosen out of 300 candidates,
also showed their collections: Isabella Tonchi,
Alessandro Cannavò, Bureau de Chance designers
Stefania Bertoni and Lara Canal, Corto Moltedo,
Francesca Rossi and Matteo Thiela. In September, the
winners will show their spring-summer collections in
Milan during fashion week. They also will appear on the
pages of Vogue Italia and receive a monetary award.
Albino D’Amato, 31, who has worked with
Emmanuel Ungaro, Guy Laroche, Emilio Pucci, Dolce
& Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, showed pleated short
dresses inspired by Jean Patou and Givenchy. One of
Albino’s best looks was a canary mink-fur vest worn
over a powdery blue satin blouse and dark shorts. The
line is available at Biffi, Milan; Maria Luisa, Paris, and
Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong, among others. Albino said
Two looks
from young
Italian
designers.
PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI
By Luisa Zargani
he wanted to give his own “fresh and contemporary
spin” to sophisticated looks and deconstructed shapes.
Two designers, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto
Raimondi, launched the 6267 label last year. The line is
available at Blake, Chicago; Really Great Things, New
York, and Tuberose, Palm Beach, Fla., among others. The
designers showed a feminine collection of beautifully cut
tweed suits and a velvet and shantung cocktail dress that
would make the day of many a Lady Who Lunches.
Pregnolato, who has worked with Missoni and
Roberto Cavalli, showed a handmade collection of
feather-light shoes and handbags that reelaborated
vintage Fontanetto fabrics or had a retro, Fifties’
Hollywood glamour.
Design, however, was only one component, Sozzani
said. “The competing designers must have a business
plan and a long-term strategy,” she said. In addition,
production and distribution are a must. Competing designers are required to have a collection of at least 20
pieces, list a few points of sale and submit a video.
“Those who don’t know how to communicate will
never be successful,’’ said Sozzani, who raised the
entry standards to set this contest apart. “This is a
business, so they must be concrete. There are a lot of
competitions that serve the press and are photogenic,
but then nothing comes of them. We want a new designer, but not an emerging one who later disappears.”
Joan Kaner, vice president and fashion director for
Neiman Marcus, and one of the 10 international
judges, said, “The winners have a style of their own, all
the right looks and a very nice, cohesive group of clothing. At the same time, this is not about items — these
designers must have a vision and a strategy.”
Gianni Amati, owner of the trendsetting Leam boutique in Rome and also a judge, praised the initiative,
saying, “There is a whole world of designers out there
to evaluate, and not enough chances to do so.”
While lauding Alta Roma for its support and organization, Sozzani did not mince words. “There are a lot
of people who say they are willing to help, but nothing
ever comes of those promises.”
A government representative at the event, Adolfo
Urso, Italy’s vice minister for trade, said an unspecified amount had been allocated within next year’s
state budget to finance fashion.
The contest will be held again in January during
the city’s couture week. Next year, Valentino is expected to show in Rome, an event that will mark his 45th
anniversary.
Tick Tock
YOUNG | AFFLUENT | SUCCESSFUL | TARGETED
VITALS Man hand-picked readers spent an average of AN HOUR AND 24 MINUTES with the magazine,
and a whopping 94% agree that we’re an insider’s reference guide to luxury life style.*
VITALS MAN... ONLY THE RIGHT READERS.
Fall close August 2. Call Ann L undberg, Publisher, 21 2-630-3888
*Source: VITALS Man Reader Survey April 2005
14
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005
PUBLIC RELATIONS
Fashion Publicist
RETAIL ANALYST
We’re closing our doors after 20 years.
Biggest bargain of the year!
Junior, Contemporary & Casual Wear.
Some Fixtures. Last day of sale is
July 29th. For info, call: 212-695-3470
Senior Buyer/Merchandise Director
37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00
5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00
Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in
Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043
85 Mercer Street - SOHO
1,200 sq. ft. w/high ceiling. Retail Space.
Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300
Oilily is expanding and is seeking a Senior Buyer/Merchandise
Director for the US market. The desired candidate will be a
results-oriented analytical business manager with intelligence, strategic business acumen and creativity. He / She
should bring a combination of 3 to 5 years of successful
multi-store merchandise management and buying experience in an upscale apparel or children’s environment. He /
She should possess a strong appreciation for unique and
innovative product and understand the complexities of
working for a European based company. The selected
candidate will have a proven record of developing sales
and margins through leadership and strategic planning
efforts for unique regional markets. They should be collaborative in nature, particularly in dealing with subordinates,
peers and the field staff. This senior management position
will report directly to President of the US Market and directly
manage product assortments for 35 full-price boutiques and
two outlet locations. Candidate must be willing to relocate to
Chicago. OILILY is an Equal Opportunity Employer and we
offer competitive salaries including incentive earnings,
medical, dental, life and disability benefits as well as a
comprehensive 401K package.
www.dumann.com
Helmsley-Spear, Inc.
212-880-0414
BWAY
7TH AVE
SIDE STREETS
Great ’New’ Office Space Avail
ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500
Designer (Job # 988)
Account Executive (Job # 989)
If you are interested in applying for these openings, please apply
directly to http://careers.jny.com for confidential consideration.
AnEOE/Affirmative Action Employer
Accounting
Inventory/Costing Manager
PATTERN/SAMPLES
Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast
work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808
PATTERNS, SAMPLES,
PRODUCTIONS
All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.
Call Sherry 212-719-0622.
PATTERNS, SAMPLES,
PRODUCTIONS
Leading Intimate Apparel Mfr. seeks an
organized, detail-oriented professional
with excellent follow-up skills to assist
in monthly closings, inventory reconciliation, stock transactions, cycle counting and cost analysis. Only candidates
with a min. of 3 years experience at a
large public accounting firm will be
considered. Prior exp. with standard
costing and inventories in a mfg. environment is preferred. Proficiency in
AS400/Word/Excel req’d., Lawson a plus.
Hours: 8:30-4:30. Excellent benefits!
Please fax or mail resume with salary
requirements: Attn: H.R.
Fax: 201-635-0208
Wacoal America, Inc.
One Wacoal Plaza, Lyndhurst, NJ 07071
NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE
Administrative/Production Assistant
Large midtown textile firm seeks
an admin/prod assistant. Responsibili ties include checking / control of
contracts, cost analysis, production
follow-up, corresponding w/ customers
& manufacturers. Must be detail oriented
& have computer skills. Salary based on
experience. Please forward resume to:
Fax: (212) 354-2674
Admin
Since 1967
Full servcie shop to the trade.
Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.
W-I-N-S-T-O-N
APPAREL STAFFING
PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD
DESIGN * SALES * MERCH
ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION
(212) 557-5000
F: (212)986-8437
High qlty, reasonable price. Any design & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186
We offer a competitive salary and a comprehensive benefits
package. Fax or email your resume with cover letter Attn: HR
Fax: (203) 302-3810
Email: [email protected]
Designer
HANDBAGS
Fitting Model Needed
GREAT OPPORTUNITY!
Fusion Accessories seeks a DESIGNER
with 2+ years experience in Handbag
Design. Must be fashion savvy, w/strong
sketching abilities, and Adobe Photoshop
proficient. Detail oriented, organized,
and professional as well. Must be willing
to do some domestic and international
travel. Interview scheduling for July 28th
and 29th. Please contact by E-mail at:
[email protected]
Height 5’9 1/2"
Designer Size 2 or 4
Bust 33.5"
Waist 25"
Hip 35.5"
Full time position (M-F) Great Benefits!
Please fax or e-mail resume to:
212-869-5795
[email protected]
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
DESIGNER
Showrooms & Lofts
Make a Mistake?
The ideal candidate must possess a BS degree, have a strong
financial background and be experienced in retail math in
order to retrieve, analyze and interpret retail sales data.
We expect a min. of 3 years relevant business experience as
well as excellent analytical, communication and organizational skills. Proficiency in MS Excel is required.
Please email resume to [email protected]
or fax to (708) 366-4743. No phone calls please.
For Space in Garment Center
We do all kinds of garment construction.
Need price tickets or label sizes
changed? Need items repackaged,
stored or re-shipped? No project
too small or too big. We’re quick,
efficient & priced just right!
Call Noreen (718) 985-9788
BCBG Max Azria Footwear , based in Greenwich CT,
is seeking a Retail Analyst to help build business through
the analysis of department store sales performance, profit &
loss, order assortments and key item selling for all accounts
across the country.
AMAZING FASHION CAREERS
Artists - Designers - Merchandisers Production - Sales - Technical - Etc.
Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy)
ARTIST
Children’s wear co. seeks creative,
organized, hard working individual
who is proficient in Illustrator and
Photoshop. Must be able to follow
directions and come up with original
art concepts. Fax resume: 212-465-0645
ASST PROD
Leading Intimate Apparel Co seeks an
organized & detailed oriented person
to do daily flwup w/overseas, to handle
W’mart & Target acct. Spec garment is
a must. Minimum 2 years experience.
Pls e-mail resume to Debbie at
[email protected]
INFANTS APPAREL/LAYETTE
Character license division seeks talented Designer w/minimum 6 years exp.
Must coordinate w/licensors & factories for approvals. Fax: or E-mail resumes to:
212-725-2703 / [email protected]
DESIGNER
Private Label Importer seeks creative,
organized, detail oriented individual,
with strong flat sketching and specing
abilities to design garments, color yarn
dye fabrics, create embroideries and
execute complete tech packs for overseas. Products include Junior & Missy
Sportswear, Children’s and Sleepwear.
Knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator
a must. Please Fax or E-mail resume to:
320-215-1334 / [email protected]
Designer &
Production Manager
Fast growing activewear company
seeks to add new head designer and
production manager to its team. We
seek talented, creative and organized
team players to enhance our future
collections. Ideal candidates must
have 1-3 years related experience in
the activewear and stretch fabrics,
strong communication skills, work
independently on short timelines, the
ability to multi-task, to complete
detailed design packages and support
the private label and sourcing side of
our business. Experience w/ sketches,
specs & Colorways required.
Please contact Holly Burns at
[email protected]
CFO- Great Opportunity!
Design
Top apparel importer seeks qualified
person w/strong financial relationships to
join our rapidly growing company! InterBAGS • BAGS • BAGS
national LC and cash flow responsibilities. We’re a leading supplier to the Fragrance/
Located in L.A. Fa x : 2 13 -6 2 2-7 3 5 3 Cosmetic industry and seeking a unique
Email:[email protected]
individual to assist w/sketching, creating
spec sheets, new concepts, sourcing
materials, etc. Will communicate with
Designer $70 to $100K. Current exp in overseas factories daily & assist salesprivate label Junior cut and sewn tops people. Must be very organized, have
required. 1407 Broadway import co. ability to multi-task and be a team player.
Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy
Must have knowledge of Photoshop &
Illustrator along with fashion trends.
Midtown location. Email all resumes to:
[email protected]
Leading importer seeks a creative /
enthusiastic individual to design Girls Design
denim line. Must have knowledge of
spec’s, follow up & Photoshop
Illustrator. Salary commensurate with
****FREELANCE****
experience. Please fax resume:
Well est’d. Watch Mfr. is looking for
(212) 971-0018 Attn: Debbie/Becky
WATCH DESIGNERS for new ladies’
celebrity license collection with upscale
European flair. Designs to be cutting
edge and very fashionable. Please send
resume to: watches123 @hotmail.com
JR. Design Assistant
Designer/Children’s
WATCH DESIGNERS
DRESS DESIGNER /
MERCHANDISER
DESIGNER
Handbags/Accessories
Candidates must be experienced with
mid-tier, mass and junior markets.
Knowledge of current handbag trends
preferred. Salary commensurate with
experience. Excellent benefits!!
Email resume with salary req’s. to:
[email protected]
MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP
contemporary private label company is
seeking a aggressive, motivated,
multitasking individual to join our
team, candidates need to have strong
merchandising skills, an excellent
taste level, excellent communication
& follow up skills to be able to communicate on a daily basis with overseas
office, be computer literate and be able
to interact with buyers.
Pls fax resumes to 509-757-7814 or email:
[email protected]
Fast growing contemporary company
seeks entry level graphic designer to
create look books and line sheets. Must
be proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop,
and Quark. Photography exp and photo
retouching a big plus.
Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318
Knitwear Coordinator
Liaison between production, merch
and sales for better knitwear. Must be
detail oriented, well organized, good
communicator, Excel / Computer skills
must. EDI knowledgeable.
Fax resume to: 212.221.8129
PDS PAT MAKER
GERBER $70 - $85K
[email protected] Call 212-947-3400
PLANNER/ANALYST
Sportswear Importer needs Retail Link
Pro to help manage Wal-Mart account.
Strong analytical & Excel spreadsheet
skills req’d. Buying experience preferred.
Fax Resume to Pete @ 212-944-2452
Private Label Sportswear importer is
seeking FIVE professionals to expand
our Ladies’ Division:
1. MERCHANDISER
2. PRODUCTION MANAGER
3. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR
4. DESIGNER
5. TECHNICAL DESIGNER
Relative working experience req’d. for
each position. We welcome motivated,
highly organized, and responsible candidates who are good team players. Strong
communication skills and basic computer
skills are a must. Please E-mail resumes
and salary history (with position title in
subject) to: [email protected]
Production Assistants
Private Label Mfr. seeks 2 individuals
with import experience. Must be able
to multi task and work independently.
Strong computer skills req’d. TWO positions avail. Bilingual Chinese a plus.
Salary to 35K. Please E-mail resumes to:
[email protected]
Globe-Tex Apparel
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT
Womenswear manufacturer seeks entry
level prod assistant for fast growing
private label division. Must have min 1
year exp working in imports and be
computer proficient. Great opportunity
for growth.
Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318
PRODUCTION
Asst Production Mgr
Major shoe man seeks indiv w/ 1-2 yrs
exp. Resp will include costing, comm.
with factories scheduling, etc. Knowledge of Footworks a plus. Mid-town
location. Attractive salary + benefits.
Send resume with salary history and
requirements to: [email protected]
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Top apparel importer seeks qualified
person w/ strong sourcing, planning,
QC/QA & follow through reqd. Fast pace,
Overseas travel required. Located in
Los Angeles. Fax: 213-622-7353 Email:
[email protected]
Rapidly growing lifestyle PR firm is
hiring two full time senior and
midlevel publicists. 2-5 years exp. in
fashion, home, accessories, lifestyle
PR and strong media contacts are req.
E-mail res and salary req. to
[email protected]
QUALITY CONTROL
SUPERVISOR
Growing New Jersey domestic/import
manufacturer seeks individual to develop,
implement and maintain systems to ensure compliance with customer quality
standards & regulations. Will also interface with other departments. Qualified
candidates will be aggressive, have good
communication & computer skills, have
at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing
environment. Bilingual Spanish a must.
Email resume and salary req’s. to:
[email protected]
Retail Analyst
Leading childrenswear company seeks
experienced Retail Analyst to provide
analytical support to sales force.
Responsibilities include developing
and managing sales and inventory,
forecasting models and plans for each
account. Must retrieve, analyze and
interpret retail sales data and make
recommendations to maximize sales
potential. Must create and analyze
weekly and monthly reports by sku for
sales and stock planning and forecasting. Knowledge of Kmart Workbench
and Wal-Mart Retail Link web based
systems req’d. Qualified candidates
will have a minimum of 3 years experience in brand apparel, cosmetics, or
accessory business. Strong retail analytical skills required. Must be proficient in Excel, Power Point, Database
Managers. Competitive salary and
excellent benefits. Fax resumes with
salary requirements to 732-636-4764 or
e-mail: [email protected]
Sales Executive
Prestigious designer label seeks energetic
sales pro with strong store contacts.
Min. 5 years exp. Excellent comp and
growth opportunity. Fax resume to
212-695-9483 or email [email protected]
Shipping Manager
Brooklyn, NY based Junior Sportswear
Co. is seeking a Head Shipping Manager to oversee a high volume of merinclude
chandise. Responsibilities
managing all shipping and coordinating all pick-ups/deliveries with contractors. Candidate must be detailoriented with the ability to multi-task.
Salary commensurate with experience.
Please fax resume to:
Alan: 212-575-0068
TECH DESIGNER
Lifestyle Men’s/Womens/Kids apparel
importer, seeks candidate with 3-5 years
experience. Responsibilities include, fit,
tech packs and merchandising of line.
Illustrator and Photoshop a required.
Must have solid communications skills.
Please email resume to:
[email protected]
Tech Design
MISSY KNITS & WOVEN IMPORTS
Exp’d. pro needed 4 days per week.
E-mail: [email protected]
TECHNICAL ASSISTANT
Womenswear manufacturer seeks entry
level technical assistant to assist technical designer. Must have exp. specing
garments. Min 1 yr exp in imports.
Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318
Technical Sketcher
Children’s wear company seeks an
organized and detailed oriented individual to create technical sketches.
Must have some knowledge of garment
construction. Proficiency in Illustrator
and Photoshop required.
Fax resume: 212-465-0645
WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2005 15
WWD.COM
PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO
A Shaving Line for Gentlemen
By Matthew W. Evans
NEW YORK — The proprietor of a
three-year-old e-commerce site
called Egentlemen.com has created his own men’s shaving line
and named it — what else? — True Gentlemen.
Raymond Attipa, 24, whose Web site carries
men’s skin care and shaving brands, such as The Art
of Shaving, E Shave and Jack Black, introduced
True Gentlemen products in January at a handful of
U.S. spas. More products are on the way for November; there are now eight items in the True
Gentlemen assortment.
Attipa’s strategy was purposeful when he decided
18 months ago to develop True Gentlemen as a shaving collection. “Shaving [generates] 85 percent of
sales of niche, luxury men’s grooming,” he said. “I
monitored the market on Egentlemen.com and I saw
that the only three products that were the heavy hitters were pre-shave oil, shave cream and aftershave
balm. So, I decided to come out with a shave line.”
Besides white-and-black shaving brushes, the collection includes a 1.7-oz. pre-shave oil for $20, a 5.3-oz.
shaving cream for $25 and a 3.4-oz. aftershave balm
for $35. Each of the three formulations is grouped into
one of two scents: Lavender and Unscented. While the
existing assortment targets men ages 35 and older,
Attipa plans to introduce in November a third range
of products that are scented with accords of cedarwood “for a 45-plus crowd,” he said.
True Gentlemen’s U.S. distribution network now
includes about 25 sites, 15 of which are spas. The remainder of doors is made up of apothecaries and
male-oriented salons. Attipa plans to expand distribution of True Gentlemen to nearly 80 doors by
yearend, and is eyeing Kitson in Los Angeles, 4510
in Dallas and Mario’s in Portland, Ore.
True Gentlemen “is very heavily ingredient-driven,” Attipa noted. “That’s why some high-end spas’
BEAUTY BEAT
Items from the True Gentlemen collection.
aestheticians have looked into it.” The pre-shave oil
includes moisturizing avocado oil, antioxidant
grape seed extract and hemp seed oil. The shaving
cream features aloe, coconut acid and glycerin.
Finally, the aftershave balm boasts about 13 substances, including antioxidant bladder wrack, regenerative chamomile and green tea extract, plus
multiple vitamins.
“I kept the line small and sleek,” said Attipa, who
is targeting retail sales of $600,000 by yearend.
“Shelf space is important in smaller apothecaries
and at spa retail.”
Sales at Inter Parfums
Gain 31.5% in Quarter
NEW YORK — Inter Parfums Inc., after announcing an exclusive deal for bath and body products for Gap and
Banana Republic, said Wednesday net sales jumped 31.5
percent in the second quarter to $61.4 million from $46.7
million a year ago.
For the first half of 2005, net sales were up 26 percent to
$132.5 million. At comparable exchange rates, sales gained 24
percent. The firm said the Burberry Brit scent led the sales
gain for the second quarter.
In addition to the new Gap and Banana scents, which
are expected to launch in 2007 and next year, respectively,
Inter Parfums will roll out Tumulte by Christian Lacroix in
August, Arpège Pour Homme by Lanvin in the fall and
Burberry Brit Gold in time for this holiday season. The
company expects to adjust its earnings guidance for 2005 to
account for the new launches.
Regarding Inter Parfums SA, the Paris-based subsidiary of U.S.-based Inter Parfums Inc., the firm said second-quarter sales shot up 43.8 percent to 44 million euros,
or $56.6 million. For the first half, its sales rose 31.8 percent to 91.2 million euros, or $117.3 million. Dollar figures
are at the average exchange rate. At constant exchange
rates, sales in the first half spiked 35.1 percent.
Also in the half, Burberry represented 67.7 percent of
the subsidiary’s business, generating 61.7 million euros,
or $79.4 million, in sales, a 13.5 percent increase year-onyear. Lanvin rang up 13.2 million euros, or $17 million,
representing more than 14 percent of the firm’s activity.
Paul Smith, Inter Parfums SA’s third-biggest license,
boasted sales of 6.5 million euros, or $8.4 million.
“Taking into account the launches planned for the fall
— Tumulte by Christian Lacroix and Arpège Pour
Homme by Lanvin — the firm confirms its sales objective
of 192 million euros [$232 million] for 2005, representing
growth of 22 percent over 2004,” Inter Parfums SA said in
a statement.
The company is expected to report earnings on Aug. 8.
ALLEN B./A.B.S
As the leader in contemporary design, we continue to grow
and are looking to add talent to our team.
Major Store Account Executive
Seeking energetic, sales driven individual with 3-5 years
experience for major department store client base.
Specialty Store Account Executive
Seeking energetic, sales driven individual with 1-3 years
wholesale sales experience for specialty store client base.
Fax resumes to Patricia: 212.764.6912 • (EOE)
ACCOUNT
EXECUTIVE
MAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS is
seeking experienced, energetic, individual to join our specialty stores sales
team. Candidate must be familiar with
our product and be able to immediately
manage and maintain accounts on all
levels. Handbag experience required.
Pls fax resume: 212-679-0311
BLUE SPICE
Better Children’s and Junior line looking for Road Reps and in house Sales
Executives with minimum 5 years
experience in better market. Currently
at Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Von
Maur. Great compensation package.
Email Resume to: [email protected]
JSong International Inc.
Embroidered Dress & Sportswear Co.
seeking exp’d. Sales Pro. Travel req’d.
Salary + Commission! Fax or E-mail to:
212-736-1686 / [email protected]
Private Label
Sales Executive
Leading apparel company
manufacturing Ladies, Mens
Girls and Boys sportswear
in 15 countries globally
seeks sales executive who
has strong relationships
with large retailers for
Private Label business.
Excellent opportunity to
earn large income for
successful sales.
Send Resume to:
Box#M 1057
c/o Fairchild Publications
7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl
New York, NY 10001
by Allen Schwartz
Allen B., a leader in contemporary/designer denim and
casual lifestyle clothing, has an incredible opportunity for an
aggressive, self-motivated Account Executive to join our sales
team in New York. Established relationships with better
contemporary/designer and International specialty
stores a must.
Excellent benefits, salary and commission.
All replies kept confidential.
Fax resumes to: 212-840-0092
or Email: [email protected]
Multi-line Sales Rep
Trendy women’s young contemporary
and contemporary clothing co needs
exp’d rep with showroom in NYC.
Ph: 213-742-9001 x 404 (Don)
E-mail: [email protected]
SALES EXECUTIVES
Rapidly expanding licensed Handbag
company seeks dynamic Specialty Store
& Department Store Sales Executives
to build new accounts and manage
existing retail and brand accounts. 2-3
years Handbag exp. a must. Qualified
candidates must be motivated, detail
oriented, multi-taskers capable of worki n g closely with various company
depts. in fast-paced environment. We
offer competitive salaries & incentive
based compensation packages including benefits. Please fax resume to:
Jody O’Rourke 212-686-0945
LUCRATIVE OPPTY
Exciting Knit/Woven division looking
for Sales Executives with minimum
5 years experience in tops. Must have
very strong contacts and following.
Great compensation package.
Email Resumes to: [email protected]
SALES EXECUTIVE
Better Junior Jeans Company seeks an
aggressive, highly motivated Sales Pro
with major dept./chain store following.
Email: [email protected]
or Fax: (323) 581-1191
SALES
$125-$140K
Home Fashions Dept & Specialty Stores
Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465- 8300
[email protected]
Sales Manager
Well established contemporary sportswear company seeks an enthusiastic
Sales Manager with a proven track
record to join our team. Excellent
career opportunity for an extremely
motivated, highly organized & creative
thinker. Must be a team player with a
strong contemporary background. The
candidate must be able to manage
representative sales offices as well as
our NY corporate office. Salary and
incentive compensation commensurate
with knowledge and experience.
Email resume to:
[email protected]
no phone calls
— Brid Costello and Amy S. Choi
Sales/Merchandiser
Successful Sweater/Knit Co.
Better Branded & Private Label Ladies’
Sportswear/Outerwear Co. is seeking an
aggressive, motivated, positive thinker
to join our Sales Team. Must have
strong merchandising skills in the woven
sportswear market, and a great eye for
fashion trends. Product development
skills a +! Min. 3+ years sales proven
track record in better Specialty/Dept.
Stores req’d. Fax to: 212-358-0031
Seeking Key Salesperson w/Major Store
following who can expand our existing
customer base. Fax resume to Howard at:
212-221-3480
Tritone Design
A textile design service studio seeks
a 1+ year, exp’d salesperson.
Please e-mail your resumes to:
[email protected]
Sales Partner(s) Wanted!
Well Established Mfr./ Importer
Junior, Misses & Plus Size Knitwear &
Sweaters seeks Sales Partner(s) to
bring in new business &/or Private
Label Customers. The tools are here!
Tired of working for others?
Unlimited Earning Potential!
Fax resume to: 212-214-0788 or
Call Jeffrey for appt: 212-764-6500
SALES REPS WANTED
HI VOLUME BUSINESS!
Top apparel importer seeks qualified
reps with strong specialty store following.
Territories open:
1) Ohio, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana,
Western Pennsylvania, West Virginia
2) Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico,
Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas
Fax: 213-622-7353 or Email:
[email protected]
Sports/Loungewear Sales
Major Chinese Public Co. w/ 12 yrs NY
& US presence making private label &
own brands, currently selling major
chains, seeks additional salesperson(s)
for branding division for missy sportswear & loungewear. Require strong
merchandising skills. Must have relationships with mass market retailers
and/or dept. stores. Fax (212) 391-4497.
Store Manager
Retail Sales Assistants
High-end children’s and ladies’ designer
clothing company from London seeks
qualified, motivated & dynamic retail
sales staff for boutique soon to open
uptown on Madison Avenue, New York
City. Full and part-time considered.
Must have exp, computer knowledge,
enthusiasm, friendly disposition and
excellent customer service, preferably
with retail sales experience, skills and
be a team player. Please email resume:
[email protected]
F/T & P/T
RETAIL SALES
Upscale boutique in Nolita is looking
for sales associates with retail experience. We offer an exciting opportunity
for growth within expanding company!
Please fax resume to: 212-674-0506
Retail Sales Manager
Fast-paced 8000 sq ft high-end clothing store in Boca Raton, FL seeks candidate to manage highly motivated
sales team and build and expand an
established customer base. Experience
a must. Salary, commission, benefits.
Fax resume 561-994-6333 Henry
WWD
The Magazine
More immediate. More authoritative. More insider. More provocative.
New Date: October 31
For more information on advertising in this special publication, please contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589.
Photo by Stéphane Feugère
The best
seat in the house.