Delicious Black Sea cuisine E¤lenceli

DEDEMAN QUARTERLY
DQ
SAYI-ISSUE 04 SONBAHAR-FALL 2009
Bir Dünya Metropolü: ‹stanbul
A world metropolis: Istanbul
Enfes Karadeniz Mutfa¤›
Delicious Black Sea cuisine
E¤lenceli ve Muzip: Ayhan Sicimo¤lu
Funny and tricky: Ayhan Sicimoglu
DQ
ÖNSÖZ-FOREWORD
De¤erli Dedeman Dostlar›,
Büyükflehirlerin heybetli camilerinde arz-› endam eden mahyalar ve bütün bir ay gökyüzünde ›fl›ldayan
özlü sözler Ramazan ay›n›n simgesi. Bu sene de kandiller yand›, camiler süslendi. Ramazan yine
huzuruyla birlikte geldi...
Bu sene yaz›n bitmesine f›rsat vermeden bafllayan Razaman ay›, sezona dingin bir girifl yapmam›z›
sa¤lad›. Dergimiz bu sefer de dopdolu... Kapal›çarfl›’s›, Galata’s›, Bo¤az’› ve ultra lüks al›flverifl
merkezleriyle gerçek bir metropol ‹stanbul, vakti az olup seyahat planlar›n› internet üzerinden yapanlara
e-seyahat konusu, keflfetmeye de¤er kültür&sanat mekanlar›, Taflkent/Semerkant ve Buhara, Ayhan
Sicimo¤lu söyleflisi ve Dedeman fianl›urfa’da moda çekimi... Hepsi DQ’nun dördüncü say›s›nda.
Siz de¤erli misafirlerimize duyurmak istedi¤imiz bir de kampanyam›z var. 1 Ekim 2009 tarihine
kadar herhangi bir Dedeman Oteli’nde konaklarsan›z, zincir otellerden istedi¤iniz birinde tek gece
konaklama hediye ediyoruz. Belirlenen tarihler aras›nda gerçeklefltirilecek konaklamalarda kazan›lacak
ücretsiz konaklama haklar› 2009 senesinin sonuna kadar Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International
bünyesinde yer alan 7’si yurt d›fl›, 15’i yurt içi toplam 22 otelde geçerli olacak. Bu çok özel imkandan
yararlanmak için yapman›z gereken tek fley Dedeman Loyal Club’a üye olmak ve en az iki gece bir
Dedeman Oteli’nde konaklamak.
‹yi bayramlar...
Dear Valued Dedeman Friends,
The glittering scripts of famous aphorisms, which remain shining in the skies throughout the month, are
the symbols of the holy Islamic month of Ramadan. The candles are lit, the mosques decorated;
Ramadan comes along once again with its usual peacefulness...
Ramadan, which came before the end of summer this year, ensures that we all make a calm, restful
entry into the season. Our magazine, as usual, is vibrant and entertaining this month. The ultra
metropolis-Istanbul, the Grand Bazaar, Galata district, Bosphorus and many luxurious shopping areas,
e-travel news for those who are running out of time to plan their vacation, global cultural and arts centers
worth discovering, Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, an interview with Ayhan Sicimo¤lu and a fashion
shoot at Dedeman fianl›urfa... All in the fourth issue of DQ.
There is also a campaign that we would like to inform our distinguished guests about. If you are planning
on staying at any of the Dedeman Hotels until October 1, we are offering a free stay for one night, in any
Dedeman Hotels of your choice. This campaign is valid until the end of 2009, in any of the 15 domestic
or 7 abroad hotels within the Dedeman Hotels. All you have to do to benefit from this special offer is to
acquire a Dedeman Loyal Club Membership and stay at a Dedeman Hotel for over two nights.
Happy holidays...
Tamer Yürüko¤lu
Genel Müdür / General Manager
Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International
1
DQ ‹Ç‹NDEK‹LER-CONTENTS
12
ajanda-zoom
04
Türkiye’de ve dünyada olup bitenler
The news from Turkey and the world
kültür sanat-culture&art
12
Sanat›n Modern Mabetleri
The Modern Sanctuaries of Art
seyahat-travel
22
22
32
32
38
44
71
Yetenekli Bay Sicimo¤lu
The Talented Mr. Sicimo¤lu
Karadeniz Sofras›
A seat at the Black Sea table
Tarihi, sanat›, esteti¤i ve e¤lenceyi bir arada
sunan flehir ‹stanbul
Istanbul- a city where history, art, and
culture meet
Mistik fianl›urfa
Mystical Sanl›urfa
GENEL YAYIN YÖNETMEN‹
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Arzu Karacada¤
KATKIDA BULUNANLAR - CONTRIBUTORS
Ceyda Kurtifl, Esin Müftüo¤lu,
O¤uz Is›göllü, Sibel Karabeyo¤lu, Elif Eren,
Murat Tekin, Birgül Giriflkin
REKLAM GRUP BAfiKANI
ADVERTISING GROUP CHAIRMAN
Gonca Alyanak Savc›
REKLAM KOORD‹NATÖRÜ
ADVERTISING COORDINATOR
Tolgay Gülten
REKLAM MÜDÜRÜ
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Özgür Kurum
MÜfiTER‹ TEMS‹LC‹LER‹
CUSTOMER DIRECTORS
Gözde Çevik, Özgür Çokgezen
AJANS MEDYA
Kuruçeflme Caddesi, No: 3
Kuruçeflme 34345 ‹stanbul
Tel: 0212 287 19 90
Sanal Seyahat: Yeni nesil gezginler
yolculu¤a nas›l haz›rlan›yor?
Virtual Traveling: How the younger generation
plan a vacation?
BASKI VE C‹LT / PRINTING PRESS
Apa Uniprint Bas›m San. ve Tic. A.fi.
Had›mköy ‹stanbul Asfalt›,
Ömerliköy Mevkii 34555 Had›mköy,
Çatalca- ‹stanbul
Tel: 0212 798 28 42
haberler-news
Yay›n Türü 3 ayl›k, süreli, yerel
Bas›m Yeri ve Tarihi ‹stanbul, Eylül 2009
Dedeman dünyas›n›n yenilikleri
The latest news from Dedeman
Dedeman Hotel&Resorts International’›n
ücretsiz yay›n›d›r.
Complimentary copy of Dedeman Hotels&Resorts
International.
öykü-story
78
YAPIM - PRODUCTION
AJANS MEDYA
‹NG‹L‹ZCE BÖLÜM ED‹TÖRÜ
ENGLISH SECTION EDITOR
Esen Boyac›giller
trend
66
YÖNET‹M YER‹ - EXECUTIVE CONTACT
Dedeman Hotel&Resorts International
Y›ld›z Posta Caddesi No.52 34340
Esentepe- ‹stanbul
Tel: 0212 337 39 00
www.dedeman.com
röportaj-interview
moda-fashion
54
‹MT‹YAZ SAH‹B‹ - CHAIRMAN
Dedeman Hotel&Resorts International ad›na
Tamer Yürüko¤lu
YAZI ‹fiLER‹ MÜDÜRÜ (SORUMLU)
MANAGING EDITOR
Nevra Candaner
kent-city
44
DEDEMAN QUARTERLY
Taflkent-Semerkand-Buhara
Tashkent-Samarkand-Bukhara
yemek-food
38
DQ
Ya¤mur T. Erdem’den yine flafl›rtan
bir hikâye
A shocking tale from Ya¤mur T. Erdem
54
KAPAK FOTO⁄RAFI-COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: ES‹N MÜFTÜO⁄LU
Dergide yay›mlanan yaz›, foto¤raf ve illüstrasyonlar›n
her hakk› sakl›d›r. Kaynak gösterilmeden al›nt› yap›lamaz.
Yaz›lar›n sorumlulu¤u yazarlara, yay›nlanan ilanlar›n
sorumlulu¤u ise sahiplerine aittir.
All rights are reserved that pertain to the written materials,
photographs and illustrations published in the magazine.
Nothing in this magazine may be borrowed or reproduced
without full credit being given to the source.
AJANDA
DQ
11. ‹STANBUL B‹ENAL‹
11TH ISTANBUL BIENNALE
12 Eylül-8 Kas›m tarihleri aras›nda gerçekleflecek olan 11. Uluslararas›
‹stanbul Bienali, 40 ülkeden dünya güncel sanat çevrelerinde tan›nan ya da
yeni keflfedilen 69 sanatç› ve sanatç› grubunun çal›flmalar›na yer verecek.
Bu sanatç›lar›n 9'u da Türkiye'den. Bienale davet edilen Türk sanatç›lar
Nevin Alada¤, Yüksel Arslan, Cengiz Çekil, Ifl›l E¤rikavuk, ‹nci Furni,
Nilbar Gürefl, Aydan Murtezao¤lu & Bülent fiangar, Erkan Özgen ve
Canan fienol. Ba¤›ms›z çal›flmalar›n› H›rvatistan’›n Zagrep kentinde
sürdüren WHW / What, How & for Whom küratörlü¤ünde
düzenlenecek bienalin kavramsal çerçevesi "‹nsan Neyle Yaflar?". WHW
bu çerçeveyi belirlerken Bertolt Brecht'in ‘Üç Kuruflluk Opera’ adl›
oyununun ikinci perdesinin kapan›fl flark›s›ndan ilham alm›fl.
This year the 11th International
Istanbul Biennale will take
place from 12 September to
8 November. The festival will
feature 69 up-and-coming
filmmakers (individuals or
groups) from 40 different
countries. 9 of these filmmakers
are from Turkey. Nevin Alada¤,
Yüksel Arslan, Cengiz Çekil,
Ifl›l E¤rikavuk, ‹nci Furni,
Nilbar Gürefl, Aydan
Murtezao¤lu & Bülent fiangar,
Erkan Özgen and Canan fienol
are the Turkish artists who have
been invited to Biennale this
year. The Zagreb,
Croatia-based non-profit
organization, WHW / What,
How & for Whom, is responsible
for the curating of the Biennale
this year. They have chosen the
theme, ‘What Keeps Mankind
Alive?’, from the closing song of
the second act of Bertolt
Brecht's ‘The Threepenny
Opera’, written
80 years ago.
5
Tasar›m dünyas›n›n en prestijli ve heyecan verici etkinliklerinden %100 Design,
24-27 Eylül’de Londra’da, Earls Court’ta düzenleniyor. Mimarl›k ve endüstriyel
tasar›m dünyas›n› a¤›rlayan %100 Design en yeni tasar›mlar›n, yenilikçi ve
sürdürebilir mimarl›k ürünlerinin, 盤›r açacak yeni materyallerin sergilendi¤i bir
platform. Farkl› disiplinleri biraraya getiren seminerleri etkinli¤e daha akademik
bir boyut kazand›r›yor.
100% Design is one of the most exciting and prestigious events in the design
world. Taking place from 24-27 September at Earls Court in London, the event
hosts key members from the worlds of architecture and industrial design. New
designs, modern and sustanaible design products and trendsetting materials are
displayed at this event. The seminars, which bring individuals from divergent
design disciplines together, serve to add a more academic tilt to the event.
6
RÜZGARLI fiEH‹RDE
Z‹YAFET
THE WINDY CITY’S
NEW HOTSPOT:
L20
Yeme-içme dünyas›n›n renkli
sahnelerinden fiikago’nun yeni restoran›
L20, tam anlam›yla bir deniz mahsülleri
mabedi. Güleryüzlü servis, sommellier
Chantelle Pabros taraf›ndan özenle
seçilmifl flarap listesi, yetenekli flef
Laurent Grass’›n ellerinden ç›kma
muhteflem menü L20’nin k›sa sürede
gurmelerin adres defterine girmesini
sa¤lad›. Dekorasyonuyla da di¤er
üstünlüklerini pekifltiren L20,
Travel+Leisure ve Esquire dergileri
taraf›ndan y›l›n en iyi restoran› olarak
taçland›r›ld›. 2300 North Lincoln
Park Avenue; 773-868-0002;
l2orestaurant.com.
The windy city’s hot new restaurant, L20,
is a seafood lover’s paradise. With a
friendly staff, a specially selected wine
list prepared by sommelier Chantelle
Pabros and experienced chef Laurent
Grass in the kitchen, L20 has become
the destination for Chicagoan
gourmands. And its décor has everyone
else talking as well. It was even chosen
as the best restaurant of the year by
Travel+Leisure and Esquire.
2300 North Lincoln Park Avenue;
773-868-0002; l2orestaurant.com.
‹STANBUL RES‹TALLER‹
ISTANBUL RECITALS
2010 y›l› Chopin’in 200. do¤um y›ldönümü oldu¤undan
ünlü besteci tüm dünyada farkl› etkinliklerle an›lacak.
‹stanbul Resitalleri de 2009-2010 sezonunu Chopin’in
yap›tlar›na ay›rd›. 14 Ekim’de ünlü piyanist Ido Bar-Shai
ile bafllayan resital dizisi 2010 y›l›n›n Haziran ay›na dek
sürecek. Ülkemizde ilk defa sahneye ç›kacak olan ünlü
gitar virtüözü Paul Galbraith’in resitali 18 Kas›m’da.
‹stanbul Resitalleri’nin tamam› Mustafa Kemal
Merkezi’nde gerçekleflecek.
Being that 2010 is the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s
birth, the famous composer will be honored and
remembered with many events. For their 2009-2010
season, The Istanbul Recitals will be focusing solely on
the compositions of Chopin. The concert series, which
will begin with the performance of famous pianist Ido
Bar-Shai on 14 October, will continue until June 2010.
Famous guitar virtuoso Paul Galbraith will be performing
for the first time ever in Istanbul on
18 November- his performance is one of the most
eagerly awaited. All Istanbul Recitals will take
place at Mustafa Kemal Center.
FOTO⁄RAF/PHOTOGRAPH O⁄UZ KURUM
28. ‹STANBUL
K‹TAP FUARI
Kitap merakl›lar›n›n her y›l heyecanla bekledi¤i ‹stanbul Kitap Fuar› bu y›l
28. kez düzenleniyor. Beylikdüzü’ndeki Tüyap Fuar ve Kongre Merkezi’nde,
31 Ekim-8 Kas›m tarihleri aras›nda gerçekleflecek fuar›n bu seneki ana temas›
ve onur yazar›, flair, tiyatro elefltirmeni ve çevirmen Cevat Çapan. Fuar
süresince Cevat Çapan’›n fliirleri, çevirileri ve yaflam› üzerine söylefli ve
panellerin yer ald›¤› etkinlikler düzenlenecek.
28th ISTANBUL
BOOK FAIR
The Istanbul Book Fair, which is a favorite event among bookworms, will take
place for the 28th time this year. The event, which will take place from
31 October to 8 November at Beylikdüzü’s Tüyap Fuar ve Kongre Merkezi
(Tuyap Fair and Convention Center), will focus on writer, poet, theatre critic
and translator Cevat Çapan. Throughout the fair, Capan’s poems, translations
and life will be discussed in panels and other events.
7
AJANDA
8
DQ
SARK‹S RETROSPEKT‹F Sanat dünyas›n›n önde gelen kifliliklerinden Sarkis’in
retrospektifi Eylül ay›nda ‹stanbul Modern’de sergilenecek. Sanatç›n›n 50 y›ll›k kariyerini
içerecek sergi, Sarkis’in Türk modern sanat› üzerindeki etkilerini gözler önüne seren bir
dönüm noktas›. ‹stanbul Modern’de bir sanatç› için haz›rlanan en kapsaml› seri olma
özelli¤ini tafl›yan retrospektif için sanatç›n›n çeflitli eserleri dünya üzerindeki 14 müzeden
‹stanbul’a getirilecek. Sergi 2010 y›l›nda Paris’teki Centre Georges Pompidou ve
Cenevre’deki Musee d'art Moderne et Contemporain’de tekrarlanacak.
SARKIS RETROSPECTIVE The work of Turkish-born Armenian conceptual
artist Sarkis Zabunyan will be featured in a retrospective at Istanbul Modern in
September. The exhibit will cover the artist’s 50-year career and his impact on Turkish
modern art and is the most comprehensive exhibit Istanbul Modern has ever had.
Artwork from over 14 museums around the world will be collected and brought to
Istanbul for the exhibit. The exhibit will move to Paris’s Centre Georges Pompidou and
Geneva’s Musee d'art Moderne et Contemporain in 2010.
AMSTERDAM ULUSLARARASI
BELGESEL F‹LM FEST‹VAL‹
AMSTERDAM INTERNATIONAL
DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL
1988 y›l›ndan bu yana her y›l tüm dünyadan 250 belgesel
filmi izleyicileriyle buluflturan Amsterdam Uluslararas›
Belgesel Film Festivali, dünyadaki en büyük belgesel film
festivali. Pathé de Munt ve Pathé Tuschinski’de hayat bulan
festivale her y›l 100.000’den fazla sinemasever kat›l›yor. Y›l›n
en iyi belgesellerinin seçildi¤i festivalde filmler befl farkl›
daldaki ödül için yar›fl›yor.
The Amsterdam International Documentary Film Festival,
the world’s biggest documentary film festival, has been
showcasing 250 of the best documentary films from around
the world since 1988. The festival takes place in Pathé de
Munt and Pathé Tuschinski and is attended by over
100.000 cinemaphiles. The films compete in 5 different
categories, and a nomination let alone a win is a huge honor,
as this is the biggest of all documentary film festivals.
AJANDA
10
DQ
SEYAHAT NOTLARI TRAVEL NOTES
Amsterdam’›n her y›l tüm dünyadan 22.000’den fazla kat›l›mc›y› çeken ünlü maratonu bu y›l 18 Ekim’de
koflulacak. Olimpik stadyumda bafllay›p biten maraton, trafik olmadan h›zl› bir flehir turu atmak için de ideal.
Amsterdam’›n engebesiz, düz bir flehir olmas› maratonu amatörler için de cazip k›l›yor.
The Amsterdam Marathon will take place on 18 October this year. The event draws over 22.000 participants
and begins and ends at the Olympic stadium. The city is ideal for marathons- even for amateurs! - being that
it’s mostly flat and traffic-free.
Berlin Duvar›’n›n y›k›lmas›n›n üstünden 20 y›l geçti. Utanç duvar›n›n yoklu¤u bu y›l eski rotas›n› takip eden
domino tafl› zincirinin devrilmesi ile kutlanacak. Son domino tafl› Brandenburg Kap›s› üstünden havai fiflekleri
ateflleyecek ve tüm gece sürecek konser ve partileri bafllatacak. Y›llarca an›lacak bu gece 9 Kas›m’da.
It’s been 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall. The absence of the wall will be celebrated in a rather
unique way- dominos placed along the path of the original wall will be knocked over to symbolize the fall of
the wall. After the last domino has fallen, the event will be celebrated with fireworks (shot into the air from
the Brandenburg Wall) and an all night concert and party. This night, which will without a doubt be spoken
about for years to come, will take place on 9 November.
Otomobil tutkunlar›n›n iple çekti¤i Autoshow’un 13.sü yine her zamanki yerinde, CNR Expo’da
düzenleniyor. Her y›l en yeni modellerin görücüye ç›kt›¤›, uluslararas› çaptaki fuar 28 Ekim-7 Kas›m tarihleri
aras›nda düzenlenecek.
The Autoshow, which is a favorite of automobile fanatics, will take place for the 13th time this year at the
CNR Expo Center, as always. The event is particularly exciting as the newest car models are displayed.
This international fair will take place from 28 October- 7 November.
DQ
12
Sanat›n
Modern
Mabetleri
KÜLTÜR&SANAT-CULTURE&ART
The Modern
Sanctuaries
of Art
Bilbao sonras› dönemde kültür-sanat mekanlar› as›k suratl› ciddiyetlerinden s›yr›l›p
yetiflkinleri m›knat›s gibi çeken e¤lence parklar›na dönüfltü adeta. Bu çekimin
sebebi içerideki paha biçilmez sanat eserleri mi yoksa binalar›n kendileri mi?
Bir zamanlar terörizmi an›msatan, nefle yoksunu endüstri flehri Bilbao’ya turist olarak
gitmek deliceydi. Bugünlerde ise dünyan›n en çok konuflulan müzesini görmek için
milyonlarca insan Bilbao’ya ak›n ediyor. Los Angeles’l› mimar Frank Gehry’nin titanyum
kapl› heykelsi Guggenheim Müzesi (www.guggenheim-bilbao.es) binas›n›n silüeti renksiz
tersanelerin aras›ndan bir mucize gibi ›fl›yor. Sadece ilk y›l›nda 1.4 milyon ziyaretçi
a¤›rlayan, çevredeki otellere, ma¤azalara ve restoranlara 200 milyon dolarl›k kazanç
sa¤layan bir müzenin tüm dünya flehirlerinin ifltah›n› kabartmas› gayet normal. Kültür
turizmi yeni bir fenomen olmasa da Guggenheim ile sanat›n çekim merkezi yaratma
konusunda ne büyük bir güç oldu¤unu tüm dünya görmüfl oldu. Seyahat planlar›nda yer
almayan bir flehri bir anda cazip k›lan ya da popüler bir flehrin çok bilinmeyen ama büyük
hazineler bar›nd›ran kültür-sanat mekanlar› sanatseverlerin rotas›nda art›k.
13
At the post-Bilbao era, cultural and art institutes have ceased to be haughty,
serious places; instead, they are almost like amusement parks attracting adults.
Is the reason behind this new change merely the valuable works of art in the
interior or perhaps the buildings themselves?
Once, it was considered madness to visit Bilbao, the industrial city which connotated terrorism and
absolutely lacked all charm, as a tourist. Today, all sorts of people are rushing to Bilbao to visit
the world’s most talked about museum. The titanium covered, sculpture-like building of the
Guggenheim Museum (www.guggenheim-bilbao.es) , designed by architect Frank Gehry, shines like
a true miracle amidst all the colorless shipbuilder’s yards. It is quite natural that this museum,
which 1.4 million people have visited in its first year alone, and which has helped the neighboring
hotels, shops and restaurants make a profit of 200 million dollars, should raise the curiosity of all
the world capitals. Even though cultural tourism is not a new phenomenon, Guggenheim has
demonstrated to the world just how powerful a source of gravity art can be. Culture and art
institutes, which make a previously unpopular city more appealing, or which remain less known
despite the magnificent treasures they contain, are now in the art lover’s travel agenda.
14
Richard Rogers ve Renzo Piano ifli ald›klar›nda
henüz 30’lar›nda iki mimard›. Hippi ideallerini
Paris’te, Pompidou’nun d›fl›ndaki capcanl›
renkteki boru donan›m›yla ilan ettiler.
Turistlerin beflte biri binan›n içine dahi
girmeyip Pompidou’ya Eyfel Kulesi muamelesi
yapsa da buras› modern sanat›n mabetlerinden.
Sergilerin yan› s›ra tiyatro, sinema, müzik,
edebiyat gibi sanat dallar›n› asla ihmal etmeyen
güncel programlar düzenliyorlar.
CENTRE
GEORGES
POMPIDOU
www.cnac-gp.fr
Gelecek program Ünlü Frans›z heykeltrafl Henri Gaudier-Brzeska’n›n 20 heykel
ve 40 tablodan oluflan sergisi 14 Eylül’e kadar Centre Georges Pompidou’da.
Upcoming Event The famous French architect Henri Gaudier- Brzeska’s
exhibition, comprising of 20 sculptures and 40 paintings, will be in the Centre
Georges Pompidou until September 14.
When Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano got the job, they were both young
architects, just in their 30s. They stated their hippy ideals with the colorful pipe
decorations they installed on the exterior of Pompidou in Paris. Even though one
fifth of the tourists don’t even enter into the center from gawking on the exterior
and treat Georges Pompidou as if it were the Eiffel Tower, this is one of the
sanctuaries of modern art. Aside from the exhibitions, it launches daily programs
which include other branches of art, such as cinema, music and literature.
Thames Nehri kenar›ndaki eski Bankside Elektrik Santrali’nden müzeye dönüflen
Tate Modern’in mimarlar› ‹sviçreli Herzog&de Meuron. 2000 y›l›nda aç›lan müze
Londra’n›n geliflmemifl bir bölgesi olan South Bank’a yeni bir yüz kazand›rd›.
Beklentilerin üç kat› ziyaretçi çeken müzenin 2012’de aç›lacak ek binas›n›n mimar› da
Herzog&de Meuron olacak. Müzenin kal›c› koleksiyonundaki 1500 modern sanat
eserinden ço¤u ‹ngiliz sanatç›lara ait.
The architects of Tate Modern, which was previously the Bankside Power Center by the
River Thames, are the Swiss Herzog & de Meuron. The museum, opened in the year
2000, has brought new life to London’s less developed area, South Bank. It has
attracted three times more visitors as much than was expected, and the architects of the
additional building, opening in the year 2012, will also be Herzog & de Meuron.
Among the 1500 works of art from the museum’s permanent collection, most belong to
British artists.
TATE
MODERN
www.tate.org.uk
Gelecek program 1 Ekim-17 fiubat tarihleri aras›ndaki “Pop Life: Art in a Material
World” sergisinde günlük hayat›n sanata yak›n duran objeleri boy gösteriyor.
Upcoming Event In the “Pop Life: Art in a Material World” exhibition, taking place from
October 1 until February 17, objects from daily life which have an artistic dimension
to them, will be displayed.
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MILWAUKEE
ART
MUSEUM
www.mam.org
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20.000 sanat eseri ile y›lda 300.000’den fazla ziyaretçiyi a¤›rlayan Milwaukee Art
Museum, 120 y›ld›r sanat peflinde. Müzede yer alan Avrupa sanat› eserleri 15.yüzy›la,
Amerikan sanat› eserleri 17. yüzy›la dek uzan›yor. 1957’de usta mimar Eero Saarinen
taraf›ndan tasarlanan ‘War Memorial Center’da savafl›n an›lar› yaflat›l›yor. 2001’de
Santiago Calatrava taraf›ndan ana binaya eklenen ve postmodern bir heykeli and›ran yeni
pavyon hem müzenin cazibesini art›rd›, hem de geçici sergiler için üç yeni salon sa¤lad›.
Milwaukee Art Museum has been serious about art for the past 120 years and has
attracted more than 300,000 visitors each year with its collection of more than 20,000
pieces. The European artworks date back to the 15th century, and the American ones to
the 17th century. The memoirs of War are re-lived in the “War Memorial Center”,
designed by professional architect Eero Saarinen in 1957. The new pavilion which
resembles a post-modern statue, and which was added to the main building in 2001 by
Santiago Calatarva, has both added to the flair of the building and has provided three
new rooms for temporary exhibitions.
Gelecek program Pop-art kral› Andy Warhol’un son dönem ifllerinin yer alaca¤› ‘Andy
Warhol: The Last Decade’ sergisi 26 Eylül’den 3 Ocak’a kadar Milwaukee Art Museum’da.
Upcoming Event The “Andy Warhol: The Last Decade” exhibition, displaying the latest
works by pop-art king Andy Warhol, will take place between September 26 and January 3..
NEW ART
GALLERY
WALSALL
www.artatwallsall.org.uk
New Art Gallery Walsall,
dinamik sergi programlar›yla
sanat› daha e¤lenceli bir hale
getiriyor. Müze, iki kat›n›
yaflayan sanatç›lara ve görsel
sanatlara ay›r›yor. Bir kat ise
nispeten tarihi de¤eri olan
eserlerle daha güncel olanlar›
bir arada sergileyerek eskiyle
yeni aras›nda bir köprü
kuruyor. Müzenin kartpostaldan sinema perdesine
de¤iflen boyutlardaki
pencereli fasad›yla göz
dolduran alt› katl› binas›
mimarlar› Peter St John ve
Adam Caruso’yu uluslararas›
birer y›ld›z yapt›.
New art gallery Wallsall
makes art even more fun with
its dynamic exhibitions. It
devotes two of its floors to
current artists and visual
arts. Another floor displays
more historical artworks
alongside contemporary ones,
thus building a bridge
between the past and the
present. The eye catching
museum building, whose
façade is replete with
windows both as small as
postcards and as large as
movie curtains, made the
architects Peter St John and
Adam Caruso into superstars.
INHOTIM
Inhotim.org.br
Brezilya’n›n s›k ormanlar›n›n derinlerinde,
Brumandinho’da dünyan›n
en fantastik modern sanat
merkezi yat›yor. 1200
hektarl›k alan› kaplayan sekiz
galerili müze ve heykel
park›na 35 hektarl›k botanik
bahçe ve 400 hektarl›k
ekolojik koruma alan› da
dahil. Ekolojiyle sanat›
birlikte sunan müzenin
koleksiyonu 1960 ve sonras›
sanata odakl›. 400’ü aflk›n
eserin ço¤unlu¤u Brezilyal›
sanatç›lardan.
In Brumandinho, the depths
of lush Brazilian forests, lies
the world’s most fantastic
modern art museum. It takes
up a colossal space; eight
museum galleries and the
garden of statues stretch over
nearly three thousand acres;
in addition, there is a botanical garden of about 85 acres
and en ecological protection
site of nearly 990 acres. The
artwork is mostly from the
post 1960 era and the works
exceed 400; they are mostly
from Brazilian artists.
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Gelecek program 25 Eylül’de bafllay›p 15 Kas›m’da sona erecek ‘Poetry in Silver’
sergisi gümüflün tasar›mla randevusu adeta.
Upcoming Event A date designed in silver: The 'Poetry in Silver' exhibition
will take place from 25 September to 15 November.
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PINAKOTHEK
DER
MODERNE
www.pinakothek.de
Almanya’n›n müze merkezi
Münih’teki Pinakothek der
Moderne ultra modern
görüntüsüne yak›fl›r flekilde
sanat, tasar›m, grafik ve
mimari üzerine
yo¤unlafl›yor. Güncel
sergilerle her daim ziyaretçi
çeken müze 20. ve 21.
yüzy›l Avrupa sanat›n›n en
seçkin koleksiyonlar›ndan
birini bar›nd›r›yor.
Centered in Germany’s
museum city, Munich, the
Pinakhotek has its focus on
art, design, architecture and
graphic design, as befitting
its ultra-modern exterior.
It attracts visitors on a daily
basis with its exhibitions and
has a vast collection of
20th and 21st century
European art.
OSLO OPERA HOUSE
www.oslooperahouse.com
Oslo hiçbir zaman
Avrupa’n›n opera merkezlerinden biri olmad›. Ama
flehrin yeni opera binas› bu
durumu de¤ifltirebilir.
Norveçli mimari firmas›
Snøhetta taraf›ndan tasarlanan yeni bina, elefltirmenlerden geçer not ald›. At nal›
fleklindeki oditoryum sadece
bir sanat eseri de¤il. Akustik
aç›dan da dinleyicileri mest
edecek kalitede.
Oslo has never been a
European capital for opera,
but the city’s new opera house
just might change that. The
new building, designed by the
Swedish architecture firm
Snøhetta, has been approved
by the critics. The auditorium
shaped like a horseshoe is not
just a work of art, but also
an acoustic tool which brings
out a sound quality that can
send the listeners to heaven.
Gelecek program Oslo Opera Binas›’nda Eylül ay› dans ay›.
Üç koreograftan klasik müzik eflli¤inde üç yeni performans sergilenecek.
Upcoming Event In the Oslo Opera House, September is the month of
dance. Three new performances from three different choreographs will take
place, accompanied by classical music.
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Gelecek program Video sanat›n›n
‹sviçreli süperstar› Pipilotti Rist’in son iflleri
5 Eylül’den 6 Aral›k’a kadar Kiasma’da
sergilenecek.
Upcoming Event The latest works of
Pipilotti Rist, Switzerland’s superstar
in video art, will be shown between
September 5- December 6.
KIASMA MUSEUM
OF CONTEMPORARY ART
www.kiasma.fi.
Amerikal› mimar Steven Holl’ün ç›lg›n tasar›m› modern sanat› günü gününe yaflayan,
sanat› deneyimlerken zevk almay› hedefleyen bir kültürel merkez. Y›ll›k 200.000’den
fazla ziyaretçisiyle Helsinki’nin hatta Finlandiya’n›n en çok ziyaret edilen müzesi.
American architect Steven Hall’s crazy design is based on experiencing art on a daily
basis and enjoying it while experimenting with it. It’s Helsinki’s, in fact Finland’s,
most popular museum with over 200,000 visitors every year.
20
NEW MUSEUM
TOKYO
MUSEUM OF
ARTS AND
DESIGN
www.newmuseum.org
www.madmuseum.org
Marcia Tucker 1977’de kurdu¤u New Museum of Contemporary Art,
2007’de Tokyolu mimarlar Kazuyo Sejima ve Ryue Nishizawa
taraf›ndan tasarlanan yeni binas›na yerleflti. Modern sanata ve yeni
fikirlere duydu¤u heyecan› da beraberinde tafl›d›. Güncel sergilerin
yan›nda özel projeleriyle sanatta yenili¤e duydu¤u ilgiyi sürdürüyor.
Eski Amerikan El Sanatlar› Müzesi, alt›
y›ll›k u¤rafllar›n ard›ndan 12 katl› yeni
binas› ve yeni ismiyle Manhattan’›n
kalbinde yükseliyor. Central Park manzaral› galeri mekanlar›n›n do¤al ›fl›kla
ayd›nlanmas› için özel olarak tasarlanan
cam fasatl› modern bina Manhattan’a
taze kan oldu. 20. yüzy›l›n ortalar›ndan
bugüne uzanan genifl bir zaman aral›¤›na
tan›kl›k eden 2000’den fazla objenin
bulundu¤u kal›c› koleksiyonun yan›nda
sanatla tasar›m› ayn› potada eriten
sergiler müzede yer buluyor.
The New Museum of Contemporary Art, founded by Maria Tucker in
1977, has moved to its new building designed by the Tokyo architects
Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, in 2007. As could be expected,
it has also carried the excitement for modern art and new, original
ideas to its new building. In addition to exhibitions, it continues the
enthusiasm it has for modern art with its special projects.
Gelecek program Urs Fischer’›n aynalardan yap›lm›fl bir labirent gibi ç›lg›nca
fikirleriyle 28 Ekim’den 24 Ocak’a kadar New Museum’un galerileri, büyüleyici
bir ortama dönüflecek.
Upcoming Event The galleries of the New Museum will transform into a magical
realm between October 28 and January 24, with Urs Fischer’s labyrinth made
of mirrors.
Gelecek program 7 Ekim’den 4 Nisan’a dek sürecek ‘Slash: Paper under the Knife’ sergisi sanat formlar›nda ka¤›d›n materyal olarak kullan›m›n› konu ediyor.
Upcoming Event The “Slash: Paper
Under Knife” exhibition, taking place from October 7 until April 4, displays how
paper was used as material in various forms of art.
The museum, previously known as
American Crafts Museum, rises in the
heart of Manhattan with its new name
and 12 storey new building, after six
years of toil. The modern building has
been designed with a special glass façade
in order for the galleries overlooking
Central Park to be illuminated with natural daylight. The museum has been a
new source of attraction for the already
lively Manhattan. It has more than
2000 works in its permanent collection
dating from the mid-twentieth century
until today, alongside exhibitions which
merge art and design.
Gelecek program New York’taki
School of Visual Arts’›n Güzel Sanatlar
Bölümü ö¤retim üyeleri, mezunlar› ve
ö¤rencilerine ait 111 yap›t 4 Ekim’e
dek Pera Müzesi’nde.
Upcoming Event 111 works of art
made by the instructors, alumni
and students of the New York
School of Visual Arts, Fine Arts
Department will be displayed in the
Pera Museum until October 4.
PERA MUSEUM
www.peramuzesi.org.tr
1893 y›l›nda mimar Achille Manoussos taraf›ndan infla edilen, uzun y›llar
Bristol Oteli ad›yla tan›nan yap› mimar Sinan Genim taraf›ndan restore
edilerek bugünkü müze binas›na dönüfltürüldü. Suna ve ‹nan K›raç Vakf›’n›n
giriflimiyle 2005’te kap›lar›n› açan Pera Müzesi ailenin paha biçilemez üç özel
koleksiyonunu bar›nd›rman›n yan› s›ra güncel sergilere de ev sahipli¤i yap›yor.
21
The building, which had been designed by architect Achille Manoussos and had
for long years served as Bristol Hotel, has been restored by the architect Sinan
Genim and transformed into the current museum building. The Pera Museum,
opened in 2005 with the contributions of the Suna and ‹nan K›raç
Foundation, shelters the priceless three collections of the K›raç family as well
as hosting regular exhibitions.
SÜREYYA OPERA
www.sureyyaoperasi.org
6 Mart 1927 y›l›nda muhteflem bir galayla aç›lan bina eski ‹stanbul milletvekili
Süreyya ‹lmen taraf›ndan ‘Süreyya Opereti Binas›’ ad›yla yapt›r›ld› ve y›llarca
cumhuriyet balolar›, konser ve operalara sahne oldu. ‹çindeki tablo ve
süslemeler Naci Kalmuko¤lu’na ait. 1930’lu y›llardan 2005’e kadar, sinema
olarak hizmet veren bina mimar Cafer Bozkurt’un yürüttü¤ü restorasyon
projesi ile yeniden operalar›n, tiyatrolar›n sergilenece¤i bir kültür merkezine
dönüfltürüldü.
Gelecek program Yeni sezon
Ekim’de bafll›yor. Aç›l›fl konseri
28 Eylül akflam›.
Upcoming Event The season begins
in October. Opening concert
September 28, in the evening.
Named after Süreyya ‹lmen, who had once been the Senator of Istanbul, the
opera house had opened with a magnificent gala in March 6, 1927. It has
hosted balls, concerts and operas for many years. The paintings and
decorations in the interior belong to Naci Kalmuko¤lu. With architect Cafer
Bozkurt’s restoration, the building, which had served as a movie theater
from 1930 until 2005, will once again be a cultural center, hosting
operas and theaters.
DQ
22
SEYAHAT-TRAVEL
Taflkent
Semerkand
Buhara:
‹pekyolu üzerinde do¤an günefl
Tashkent
Samarkand
Bukhara:
step by step through the East
YAZI-BY DAMLA KELLEC‹O⁄LU
Gelmifl geçmifl en büyük fatihlerden Aksak Timur’un anavatan›, Sovyetler Birli¤i’nin üzerine
titredi¤i gözbebe¤i Özbekistan kendine has kültür miras› ile dikkat çekiyor. Sovyet kentleflmesinin
izleri, 1400 y›ll›k bir tarihle omuz omuza vermifl. Amin Maalouf kitaplar›na konu olan baharatlarla
yo¤urulmufl do¤unun mistisizmi, Rus kültürünün düzenli yap›s› ile birlefliyor. Medreseleri,
camileri, hanlar› ve an›tlar›yla flehirler birer aç›k hava müzesine dönüflüyor.
Taflkent
“Sovyet mimarisi ve farkl› tatlar”
Yeflilin farkl› renkleriyle bezeli Taflkent, Özbekistan’›n Sovyet kültüründen en çok nasibini alm›fl
flehri. Özellikle Japon bahçeleri, yemyeflil parklar› ve yollar›yla dikkat çeken Özbek baflkenti hava
güzelse uzun yürüyüfller yapmak için ideal. Sovyetlerin keskin mimarisiyle infla edilmifl yap›lar› ve
metrosu, flehrin do¤ulu kültürüne yabanc›laflman›z› sa¤l›yor. Genifl caddelerde yükselen çok katl›
masif binalar bir dönem ülkede hüküm sürmüfl Sovyet egemenli¤inin alt›n› çiziyor. Amir Timur
Müzesi Aksak Timur’un 660. do¤um y›l› münasebetiyle infla edilmifl, özellikle mavi kubbesi ile
dikkat çekiyor. fiehrin merkezinde bulunan Timur an›t› da görülmeye de¤er... fiehirde bunun
d›fl›nda uygulamal› sanatlardan edebiyata, güzel sanatlardan Özbek tarihine farkl› temalara sahip
birçok müze bulunuyor. Opera ve bale merakl›lar› için ise, Atatürk caddesindeki Aliflir Nevai
Operas›’na giderek Sovyet disipliniyle e¤itim görmüfl sanatç›lar›n etkileyici performanslar›n›n
izlenmesi tavsiye ediliyor.
The baby of the Soviet Union, Uzbekistan, was home to one of the greatest conquerors of our time,
Aksak Timur. Uzbekistan was the epitome of culture and heritage for the Soviet Union. The Soviet
Union formed over a time of 1400 years when it finally reached its completion. Amin Maalouf’s
many books described a mystical place in the East full of spices and innovative cultures and beliefs,
which was at the time very similar to the culture that was found in Russia, something familiar to
that region. Madrassas, mosques, buildings and memorials turn these cities within the Soviet Union
into open-air museums.
Tashkent
“Soviet architecture with a twist”
This city is one of the few that illustrate the culture and lifestyle of the Eastern block countries.
The Japanese gardens throughout the city and long walk paths that pass through vast parks are the
perfect way to enjoy the Uzbek capital, and the perfect way to get around it. Parts of the city
completely erase the Eastern elements that it was once famous for, but new additions to the city are
a plus; the subway system and new architectural additions renew the city’s tarnished and aged look.
The wide streets and tall elaborate buildings that are scattered throughout the city reminisce of the
Soviet dictatorship that once ruled the region. The Amir Timur Museum building was established
660 years after Aksak Timur’s death; the blue dome of the museum is especially eye-catching.
23
24
fiehrin merkezindeki Oloy ve Çorsu pazarlar›, otantik
kuruyemifl, meyve ve baharat severler için bir cennet
gibi. Çorsu pazar›n›n yak›n›ndaki Kukeldafl Medresesi,
kubbesi, iki yandaki kuleleri ve sade çal›flma odalar›yla
infla edildi¤i 16. yüzy›l›n belirgin mimari özelliklerini
tafl›yor. Taflkent’in bir di¤er önemli noktas› ise,
7. yüzy›lda yaz›lm›fl dünyan›n en eski Kuran-›
Kerim’ine ev sahipli¤i yapan Moyie Mubarek Müzesi.
Hz. Muhammed’in ölümünden yaln›zca 19 y›l sonra
yaz›lm›fl olan bu eser, kentin Ortaça¤’dan bu yana
özgünlü¤ünü korumufl semtlerinden Zarkaynar’da
ziyaretçilerini bekliyor.
Her ne kadar flehri yeralt›ndan gezmek tercih edilen
bir yol olmasa da, Taflkent’te mutlaka görülmesi
gereken yerlerden biri de Taflkent metrosu. ‹nan›lmaz
düzeni, fl›kl›¤› ve temizli¤i ile Taflkent metrosunda
birkaç durak gitmek ve e¤er mümkünse Pakhtakor
istasyonundaki ayd›nlatmay› görmek insan›n bafl›n›
döndürüyor. 1977’de hizmete aç›lan metroda foto¤raf
çekmek ne yaz›k ki yasak.
Yolu Taflkent’e düflen her ziyaretçi mutlaka televizyon
kulesine ç›karak flehri mümkün olan en yüksek
noktadan izliyor. Alabildi¤ine genifl bir görüfl alan›
sunan bu kule sayesinde kentin yerleflimi ve mimarisi
hakk›nda fikir sahibi olmak mümkün.
Semerkant
“Aksak Timur’un baflkenti”
Masallara, hikayelere, söylenlere konu olmufl
Semerkant, UNESCO taraf›ndan Dünya Kültürel Miras
listesine al›nm›fl. M.Ö. 7. yüzy›lda kurulmufl olan kent,
alt›n ça¤›n› 14 ve 15. yüzy›llarda Timur
‹mparatorlu¤u’nun en parlak devrinde yaflam›fl.
Hâlen Özbekistan’›n en büyük ikinci flehri ünvan›n›
tafl›yan Semerkant, medreseleri, camileri ve Ortaça¤
yaflam›ndan tafl›d›¤› izler ile islam kültürünün ve
yarat›c›l›¤›n›n en seçkin örneklerinden biri.
Her ne kadar 19. yüzy›lda Rus bombard›man› s›ras›nda
flehrin birçok yap›s› neredeyse tamamen y›k›lm›fl olsa
da, binalar›n ço¤u zamanla, özellikle son on befl y›l
içinde restore edilmifl. Mistisizmin doruklar›nda
Ortaça¤ islam kültürünün yans›malar›n› görmek
isteyenler için Semerkant kaç›r›lmamas› gereken bir
f›rsat. Bibi Hanum Camii, Ulu¤bey Medresesi,
fier-Dor Medresesi ve Tilya-Kori Medresesini içinde
bar›nd›ran Registan Meydan›, fiah-i Zinda dönemin
mimari özelliklerini birebir yans›tan flaheserler.
The Timur memorial in the city center is another site
worth seeing. Other educational components of the city
to see are the art museums that depict and illustrate
Uzbek culture through different forms of artistic
expression. Famous opera and ballet performances can be
found on Ataturk Street at the Aliflir Nevai Opera.
These performances display the history of dance and
opera within the Soviet Union, and are beautiful
performances.
City centre markets, Oloy and Çorsu, are a haven for
those who love fruits, nuts, and spices. Next to Çorsu
market, the Kukeldafl Madrassa is an architectural work
of art, dating back to the 16th Century. Tashkent is
also home to a very important scripture from the 7th
Century; the world’s oldest Koran can be found in the
Moyie Mubarek Museum. 19 years after the Prophet
Mohammed’s death, this Koran was written. The city
where this Koran is housed, Zarkaynar, is a town that
during the Middle Ages was known for its liberalism.
Touring this town underground, as is possible in many
other cities, can be done by means of the metro. The
Tashkent metro should definitely be seen and used. It is
surprisingly very organized, clean and chic. Pakhtakor,
a few stops down the line, has amazing light fixtures
and lighting throughout the station. Unfortunately, at
the time of the station’s opening in 1977, photography
was illegal.
Those who plan to visit Tashkent should be sure to visit
the Television tower, which is the highest point in the
city, and has breathtaking views. The views give you an
overall idea of how the city was structured and
planned out architecturally.
Samarkand
“Aksak Timur’s capital”
Used in fairytales, stories, and famous speeches,
Samarkand has been the topic of conversation for quite
some time. Named a “World Heritage Site” by UNESCO,
this city was established in 7 B.C., and during the 14th
and 15th centuries, at the time of the Timurid Empire,
it was one of the most valuable cities. It is still the 2nd
largest city in Uzbekistan, and carries historical
importance in Islamic culture and architecture left over
from the Middle Ages. No matter how much trauma the
area has seen due to Russian bombing in the 19th
Century, the city still managed to pick itself up; most of
buildings that were destroyed during the bombing have
Taflkent, Sovyet mimarisi ile Orta Asya ‹slam kültürünü bir arada yaflat›yor.
Tashkent is a place where one can view Soviet architecture and experience
Middle Eastern Islamic culture at the same time.
26
Timur ‹mparatorlu¤u’nun
baflkenti, Özbekistan’›n ise
ikinci büyük flehri,
Semerkant Timur Lenk’in,
torunlar›n›n ve ö¤retmeninin
mezarlar›na ev sahipli¤i
yap›yor.
Samarkand, once the capital
of the Empire of Timur, and
currently Uzbekistan’s
second largest city, is the
city where Timur Lenk, his
teachers and grandchildren
are buried.
Semerkant’› Semerkant yapan Timur’un ve ailesinin mezarlar›n›n bulundu¤u Gür
Emir mozolesi de mutlaka görülmesi gereken yerlerden. Tek kubbeli Gür Emir,
kullan›lan mimarinin basitli¤i ve görsel ihtiflam› ile her görenin üzerinde kesin bir
hakimiyet kuruyor. Mavi kubbesinin yan› s›ra d›fl duvar süslemerinde de s›kl›kla
mavi, aç›k mavi ve beyaz renkler kullan›lm›fl. Kil briket üzerine yerlefltirilmifl
geometrik ve epirgrafik desenler de dekorasyonun ana hatlar›n› oluflturuyor. Bir
dönemin en azametli kahraman›n› a¤›rlayan mekan sade oldu¤u kadar göz kamaflt›r›c›
ve etkileyici. Semerkant’a kadar gelmiflken kesinlikle görülmesi gereken bir di¤er
nokta da Ulu¤ Bey rasathanesi. Aksak Timur’un torunu Ulu¤ Bey astronominin alt›n
ça¤›n› bafllatm›fl tarihi bir kiflilik. ‹nfla edildi¤inde 30 metre yüksekli¤inde olan
rasathanenin günümüzde yaln›zca tek kat› ayakta kalm›fl. 15. yüzy›lda Semerkant’ta
kurdurdu¤u rasathanenin çal›flmalar› günümüzde hâlâ birçok bilim adam›n› flafl›rtacak
kadar do¤ru. Kentin ihtiflam›ndan biraz uzaklafl›p küçük bir mahalle görmek
isteyenler mutlaka yahudi mahallesine u¤ramal›. Registan Meydan›’na yürüyerek
sadece befl dakika uzakl›ktaki mahallede eskiden Karahitlerin yaflamaktaym›fl ancak
‹srail’in kurulmas›yla birlikte giderek boflalm›fl. Dar, sevimli sokaklar biraz varofl
görünümünde olmas›na ra¤men, s›cak ve canayak›n bir atmosfere sahip.
fiehrin en çarp›c› ve en güzel özelliklerinden biri de ipek hal›lar›yla ünlü dokuma
atölyeleri... ‹pe¤in bizzat Semerkant’ta ifllendi¤ini, ipli¤in burada üretildi¤ini ve
tamamen do¤al kök boyalarla renklendirilidi¤ini söylemek yerinde olacak.
Birbirinden farkl› desen ve renklerdeki hal›lar özellikle yolculuklardan eve otantik
an›larla dönmeye merakl› tursitlerin göz bebe¤i. Eve dönerken al›nabilecek bir di¤er
hediye de kalitesi tart›fl›lmayan ve birçok dükkanda tadabilece¤iniz Özbek flaraplar›.
Do¤u kültüründe ayr› bir yeri olan flarapç›l›¤› bugünlere kadar sürdüren bölge,
özellikle tatl› beyaz flarap, yumuflak içimli k›rm›z› flarap ve köpüklü flarap çeflitlerini
denemek isteyenler için tam bir cennet.
been restored during the past 15 years. Samarkand is a place that is a must-see for
those interested in the development of Islam during the Middle Ages in the region, as
there are many sites to see. Bibi Hanum Mosque, Ulu¤bey Madrassa, fier-Dor Madrassa
and Tilya-Kori Madrassa, are just some of the few.
The Timur family, who founded Samarkand, is buried in the city’s Gur Emir
Mausoleum, and their resting spots are another site that is a must-see. The single-dome
Gur Emir’s architectural style boasts supremacy over other sites that might have been
seen prior in the city. The brick building has geometric and epigraphic designs, going
up and down the building, organized in all different formations. The building was once
a very plain sight to see, however restored into a wonder of architecture and design over
the years, it has become one of the best sites to see in the city.
While in the city, the Ulu¤ Bey Observatory should be a stop along your way. Aksak
Timur’s grandson Ulu¤ Bey started a golden age in the field of astronomy. The
observatory that he constructed reaches 30meters into the sky. Built during the
15th Century, this Samarkand marvel, is known all over the world as one of the most
precise buildings built to see into the skies above.
If visiting smaller towns is how you like to site-see, then the primarily Jewish town is
the place to be. Only a mere 5-minute walk, the area, which was once inhabited by the
Karahits, was predominately Jewish, and decreased in population after the formation
of the Israeli state, Registan Center can be reached on foot. The narrow, pleasant,
quaint streets, despite the noisiness, boast an old-town atmosphere of hospitality.
The city’s most eye-catching aspects are the silk rug workshops and showrooms.
The silk that is manufactured in Samarkand, is authentic. It is obtained from the area
and all natural dyes are used. All varying in design and color, these rugs are the
perfect memoirs to take back with you upon your return home. Another keepsake from
the area to take back home, are Uzbek wines. The area is known for producing
luxurious, tasty wines from red to rose these wines are fermented in Uzbek wineries
along with bubbly wines.
27
Buhara
“Egzotik, masals› ve bafl döndürücü”
28
‹ki bin y›ldan eski bir geçmifle sahip Buhara, Ortaça¤ ‹slam dünyas›n›n bilim merkezi olarak nam
salm›fl, bilginler, düflünürler ve bilim adamlar› a¤›rlam›fl bir kent. Özbekistan’›n beflinci büyük
kenti olan Buhara, bir dönem tarih, din, e¤itim ve kültürün merkezi olmufl. Günümüzde bile en
genç yap›n›n neredeyse 1000 yafl›nda oldu¤u kentin her soka¤›nda, her meydan›nda egzotik
kokular ve tarihin izleri hüküm sürüyor. Medreseler, hanlar, kervansaraylar, tafl yap›lar ve
camilerle dolu flehrin mimarisinin, kültürel dokusunun büyüsüne kap›lmamak, insanlar›n›n
s›cakkanl›l›¤›dan etkilenmemek imkans›z.
fiehirdeki medreselerin çoklu¤u vakti zaman›nda e¤itime verilen önemin bir kan›t› gibi. Bu
medreselerden biri olan Mir Arap Medresesi, her dönem büyük düflünürlerin e¤itim ald›¤› bir
kültür merkezi olmufl ve hâlâ e¤itim vermeye devam ediyor. Kalon Camii’nin minaresinden
muhteflem görüntüsü izlenebilecek medrese, bölgeye özgü mavi kubbeleri ve giriflindeki mavi
ifllemeleri ile bilim merkezi olma özelli¤ine sanatsal bir ihtiflam kat›yor.
Medreseler d›fl›nda görülmesi gereken en önemli yerlerden biri de ‹smail Samani’nin mezar›.
‹nflas› yaklafl›k 50 y›l sürmüfl olan mezar 10. yüzy›l›n önde gelen mimari yap›lar›ndan biri ve
uzaktan bak›ld›¤›nda adeta has›rdan bir dokumay› and›ran tafl oymac›l›¤› tekni¤i ile yap›lm›fl.
Buhara’n›n en ünlü meydan› olan Leb-i Havuz bir çay ya da yemek molas› için biçilmifl kaftan.
Meydanda bir havuz, havuzun yan› bafl›nda ise bizim Nasredttin Hoca’n›n çekik gözlü Özbek
versiyonu olan “Nasrettin Efendi”nin heykeli bulunuyor. Geleneksel Özbek yemeklerinin tad›na
bakmak için de ideal olan mekanda at etinden yap›lm›fl sucuklarla servis edilen özbek pilav›,
tavuk fliflin farkl› baharatlarla marine edilmifl hâli olan flafll›k kebab›, Sovyetler Birli¤i’nin miras›
olan Borfl çorbas› ya da farkl› lezzetler sunan so¤uk et taba¤› tercih edilebilir. Genel olarak az
çeflitli ama leziz ve farkl› Özbek yemeklerinin tad›m›na geleneksel Özbek müzikleri ve bazen de
Özbek halk danslar› efllik ediyor.
Pazarlar ve kervansaraylar d›fl›nda pek çok medresenin günümüzde han, s›n›flar›n ise dükkan
olarak kullan›ld›¤› Buhara’da al›flverifl bafll› bafl›na bir e¤lence : ‹smi duyulmam›fl baharatlar satan
baharatç›lar, dünya üzerindeki tüm Türklerin medar-› iftihar› demir atölyeleri, çayc›lar, seramik
ve minyatür sanatç›lar›, ipek tüccarlar›, birbirinden göz al›c› renklere sahip el ifli masa örtüsü
satan kad›nlar ve daha neler neler...
29
30
Buhara, etkileyici mimari
dokusu, binbir gece
masallar›n›n atmosferi ve
hediyelik eflya dükkanlar› ile
ziyaretçilerinin bafl›n›
döndürüyor.
Bukhara enchants visitors
with its impressive
architectural structure, its
Arabian atmosphere,
and gift shops.
Bukhara
“Exotic, dreamy and completely captivating”
Bukhara, with a history stretching back nearly 2000 years, is a city famous for having
been the science capital of the Islamic world during the Middle Ages; it is a city that
has hosted numerous philosophers and scientists. Uzbekistan’s fifth largest city had
once been the focal point of history, religion, education and culture. Even today, the
newest buildings are no less than 1000 years old; exotic smells and history lurk in every
corner. It is impossible to not be impressed by the architecture of the city, with many
beautiful inns, stone buildings, mosques, Madrassas and caravanserais, or by the
warmth and the friendliness of the inhabitants.
The large number of Madrassas display the importance placed on education at that
time. One of these, the Mir Arab Madrassa, was once a place where the greatest
philosophers received their education, and it still functions to this day as an
educational center. The Madrassa, whose magnificence can be seen in full view from the
minaret of the Kalon Mosque, also has an artistic dimension with blue domes and the
blue décor at the entrance.
A place that should definitely be visited, apart from the Madrassas, is the grave of
Ismail Samani. The grave, whose construction took about fifty years, is one of the most
important architectural works of the 10th century. It was done using glyptography
techniques, and appears as if it were done in wicker from afar.
Bukhara’s famous square, Leb-i Havuz, is the perfect place to have a tea break or a
snack. There is a pool by the square, and right next to the pool, the statue of “Master
Nasreddin,” the Uzbek version of our Nasreddin Hodja. To taste some typical Uzbek
food, you can order Uzbek rice with garlic-flavored horsemeat sausages; flafll›k kebab,
which is made from chicken marinated in different spices; Borch soup, inherited from
the Soviets; or simply a plat of cold cuts. The traditional Uzbek food, not very
plentiful, but nevertheless distinctive and delicious, is usually accompanied by Uzbek
folk music, and sometimes traditional dances.
Shopping is a wonderful way to entertain oneself in Bukhara; where most Madrassas
are currently used as inns and most classrooms as shops, there are spice sellers offering
spices unheard of, metal ateliers, which are the source of pride of all Turks world-wide,
tea places, ceramic and cameo artists, silk traders, women selling handmade tablecloths
with many eye-catching colors, and much more.
31
Nerede Kal›n›r? Dedeman Silk Road Taflkent
(998) 71 120 3700 Amir Temur Str. C 4, No 7/8, Taflkent.
2000 y›ll›k geçmifliyle kendine hayran b›rakan Taflkent’te konaklamak için
Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent iyi bir alternatif. 206 odal› otelde 24 saat
oda servisi, internet ba¤lant›s›, elektronik kasa gibi konforunuz
düflünülerek tasarlanm›fl pek çok ayr›nt›ya yer verilmifl. 5 farkl› ala carte
restoran›, yar› olimpik kapal› yüzme havuzu, toplant› salonu, sauna,
jakuzi, masaj, solaryum ve güzellik merkezi ile Dedeman Silk Road
Tashkent görülmeye de¤er.
Where to stay... Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent
(998) 71 120 3700 Amir Temur Str. C 4, No 7/8, Tashkent.
If you're considering staying in Tashkent in the near future, the Dedeman
Silk Road Tashkent hotel is a great alternative. With 206 rooms,
24-hour room service, Internet, and much more your stay at the
Dedeman Silk Road Tashkent will be comfortable, relaxing and
convenient as is possible. With 5 different à la carte restaurants, sauna,
Jacuzzi, massage room, solarium and beauty center, meeting rooms, and
an Olympic size pool that is half covered, half open-air, the Dedeman
Silk Road Tashkent is your home away from home.
DQ
32
RÖPORTAJ- INTERVIEW
Yetenekli Bay /
The Talented Mr.
icimo¤lu
RÖPORTAJ-INTERVIEW EDA ‹VGEN FOTO⁄RAF-PHOTOGRAPHY MURAT TEK‹N
Sunucu, radyo ve televizyon programc›s›, gurme, perküsyon
üstad› ve gezgin Ayhan Sicimo¤lu’yla bir ö¤leden sonra bulufltuk.
Çok keyifli sohbetimizden sayfalar›m›za yans›yanlar...
33
Resmi yerlerde verilen formlar›n meslek
bölümüne ne yaz›yorsunuz? 10 parmak 10 marifet
falan m›?
What could you possibly write as your profession
when filling out official forms? After all, you’re a
man of many talents!
Asl›nda ona serbest demekle bafllar›m. Serbest
meslek gibi, ne diyebilirim ki baflka. fiu s›ralar
müzisyen televizyoncu kimli¤indeyim biraz. Hem
televizyon programc›s›y›m, hem sunucuyum, hem
yap›mc›y›m. Öyle bir araflt›rma ekibim yok. Bir
kameraman, bir montajc› sadece. Geri kalan herfleyi
ben hallediyorum. Tabii ki zevkle yap›yorum o ayr›.
I would have to say I’m self-employed, what else could
I say? These days I’m focusing more on my music and
television careers. I’m the host and producer as well as
program director of a TV show. I don’t have a team of
researchers; rather, I have a cameraman and film
editor- I take care of everything else, myself. Of course
I enjoy doing it- that goes without saying.
Herkesin bir serüveni var. Sizinki nas›l bafll›yor?
How did this adventure begin?
Benim serüvenim ortaokulda bafllad›. Talas
Amerikan Koleji’ne gittim 11 yafl›mdayken,
Erciyes Da¤› eteklerinde bir kasabadayd›. Son derece enteresan ve ütopik bir okuldu. Hani sihirbaz bir
çocuk var ya Harry Potter, onun okulu gibiydi.
Ö¤retmenleri de oradaki gibi tuhaft›.
My adventure began in middle school. I attended the
Tales American College, located in the outskirts of the
Erciyes Mountain, at the age of 11. It was an
interesting and utopian school. You know, it was
almost like Harry Potter’s school. The teachers were
just as weird, as well.
Ne gibi bir e¤itimi vard› di¤er okullardan farkl›
olarak?
How did the education differ from other schools’?
Sabah erkenden kalkard›k alt› gibi. Kilometrelerce
yürür, 160 tafl basamakla flatoya benzeyen binam›za
ç›kard›k. Derslerden sonra spora bafllard›k. Çekiç,
gülle, cirit atard›k. Soba, kalorifer filan yanmazd›,
yün fanila bile giymek yoktu. Kayak yapard›k k›fl›n.
Çok s›cak suda y›kan›p bornozla karda yürüyerek
giderdik yatakhaneye. Bu yüzden bir süre sobal›
evde oturamad›m. Perküsyona da buradaki
büyüklerim sayesinde merak sald›m. Sosyal yönü
çok yüksek bir okuldu.
We woke up early, around 6. We walked for many
kilometers, and ascended 160 stone steps, which led to
a chateau-like building. Classes were followed by sports
like the javelin and shot-put. The furnace and heaters
didn’t work; we didn’t even have wool undershirts to
wear. In the winter, we skied. We showered in very hot
water and then walked in the snow, in our bathrobes,
back to the dorms. This is why I wasn’t able to live in
a house with a heater for a long time. I also became
interested in the percussion thanks to the adults at my
school. The social aspect of the school was very high.
Perküsyon merak› m› Latin’e yaklaflt›rd› sizi
yoksa tam tersi mi oldu?
Did your interest in the percussion lead you to
Latin music or vice versa?
Tabii ki perküsyon Latin’e yaklaflt›rd› beni.
‹talya’da, Roma’da profesyonel hayata geçtim.
Oradaki tan›d›¤›m bütün perküsyoncular
Panama’l›yd›, Kolombiyal›’yd›, Latin Amerikal›’yd›
onlardan etkilendim.
Of course the percussion led me to Latin music.
In Italy, Rome to be specific, I started my professional
music career. All the percussionists I knew there were
from Panama, Colombia, Latin America, and thus
I was highly influenced by them.
We met up with Ayhan Sicimo¤lu, TV presenter, radio and
TV program director, gourmet, expert percussionist and
traveler and had a pleasant talk. Here, we share the lovely
conversation with our readers…
Facebook hesab›n›z var m›? Varsa eminim 1000’e yak›n arkadafl›n›z
vard›r ve bunlar gerçekten tan›flt›¤›n›z insanlard›r. Dünyan›n en
ücra köflesinde bile arkadafl›n›z var, nas›l oluyor bu?
34
Facebook’um baflta yoktu. Daha sonra açt›m ama k›z›m “Çok genç ifli
baba o,” dedi ve kapad›m bir süre. Sonra haber geldi “Ayhan bey,
hayranlar›n›z konserlerinizi oradan takip ediyor, lütfen aktive edin,”
diye. Ben de tekrar aktif hale getirdim. Grubumda 5000 kifli vard› en
son. Arkadafl listemde kaç kifli var bilmiyorum. Hepsiyle tan›fl›kl›¤›m
var ama unutuyorum. Hatta bazen komik durumlar da yaflan›yor bu
yüzden. Mesela geçenlerde biri durdurdu yolda bende tan›yorum diye
“Ooo merhaba,” dedim. Adam bana yol sordu. Dünyan›n her yerinde
arkadafl›m var evet. ‹nsanlar yeni girdikleri bir ortamda durufllar›yla
kendilerini belli ederler. Bir de insan zeki insan› özlüyor, kendine
birfleyler katabilen insanlarla görüflüyor. Hani göresim geldi derler ya.
Bir insan size hiçbir fley katm›yorsa görüflmezsiniz onunla.
Çok merakl› oldu¤unuzu söylüyorsunuz. Denemek istedi¤iniz ama
cesaret edemedi¤iniz fleyler var m›?
Var asl›nda. Skydiving var. fiöyle uçaktan paraflütle bir atlasam.
Bungee jumping var bir de. Bunlar› yap›p yapmamak konusunda
düflünüyorum. Art›k bu yaflta olur mu acaba?
Yapt›¤›n›z en ç›lg›nca fley ne peki?
Bir keresinde tek kiflilik ufak bir kano ile üç gün tek bafl›ma denize
aç›ld›m. Gerçekten çok tehlikeliydi. Bir devrilse yard›m edecek
kimse yok. Tekne gitse kalaca¤›m tek bafl›ma. Bunlar› art›k yapmamam
laz›m san›r›m.
Peki ya, asla denemem dedi¤iniz fleyler var m›?
Eflek eti bile yedim. Ama maymun beyni yemem. Himalayalar’a hiç
t›rmanamam mesela. Hem çok so¤uk, hem de yükseklik sevmiyorum.
So¤u¤a al›flk›n›m ama sevmiyorum. Ben yaz adam›y›m. Bir de sigaraya
tahammülüm yok. Hiç içmem. ‹çilen ortamlarda bile bulunmuyorum.
S›rf bu yüzden gece hayat›m› bitirmifltim ki yasakla birlikte tekrar
bafllayabilirim.
Kaç ülke gezdi¤iniz? Yoksa saymay› b›rakt›n›z m› çoktan?
Yok saymad›m hiç.
Seyahat sizin için ne ifade ediyor?
Seyahat benim için tecrübedir. Tecrübe de benim hayat görüflümdür.
Nas›l bir gezginsiniz? Seyahate ç›kmadan önce neler yapars›n›z,
bir ülkeyi ilk kez görüyorsan›z ilk nereleri gezersiniz, nelerin
foto¤raf›n› çeker, neler tadars›n›z?
Seyahate ç›kmadan önce gidece¤im yerin tarihini, insanlar›n› okurum.
Neyse ki internet diye birfley var da hayat›m›zda, bu bilgilere rahat
ulaflabiliyorum. Tekerle¤in ve ateflin bulunuflundan sonra yüzy›l›n en
büyük icad› bence. Yemeklerini tadar›m gitti¤im yerin ama dedi¤im
gibi maymun beyni hariç. Foto¤raflar da çekerim ama hayat foto¤raf›
çekerim ben. ‹lla ki “memleketimden insan manzaralar›” çekece¤im
diye birfley yok. En baba gece kulübünü de çektim sambac›
k›zlar› da çektim.
Do you have a Facebook account? I’m sure if you do you have close
to 1000 friends, most of whom you don’t know. You have friends in
the most remote corners of the world- how did this come about?
Seyahat benim
için tecrübedir.
Tecrübe de
benim hayat
görüflümdür.
Traveling for me
is experience.
And experience
is paramount to
my perspective
on life.
I didn’t have Facebook in the beginning. Later I opened an account, but
my daughter said, ‘that’s for young people, dad’, and shut it down
temporarily. Then someone said, ‘Mr. Ayhan, your fans follow your
concert events from Facebook, please reactivate it’, and so I did. Last time
I checked there were 5000 people in my group. I’m not sure how many
people I have in my friends list. I’ve met all of them; however, I do forget
some. In fact, this can create funny situations sometimes. The other day
someone stopped me in the street, and I figured I must know them, so
I said, ‘ooo, hiiiii’- turns out the guy wanted directions! I have friends
all over the world. People give off a certain vibe, or body language, even
in new environments, which is a show of character. People like smart
people, someone who can add something to their lives. You know the types
where people enjoy being around them. If a person doesn’t add anything
to your life, you won’t go out of your way to see them.
You’ve often said that you are very curious. Is there anything you
would like to try but haven’t had the courage to try?
There is. Skydiving. I would love to jump out of a plane with
a parachute. Also, bungee jumping. I’m debating between doing these
things. I wonder if I could do so at this age?
What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever done?
I once went out to sea, in a tiny, one-person canoe, for three days. It was
really dangerous. If it had flipped over, there wouldn’t have been anyone
around to help. And had I lost my canoe, I would have been stranded.
I shouldn’t be doing things like that anymore, I think.
Is there anything you absolutely would not try?
I’ve eaten donkey meat. But I wouldn’t eat monkey brain. I would
never climb the Himalayas, for example. It’s too cold and I don’t like
heights much. I’m used to cold weather, but I don’t like it. I’m a summer
man. Also I have no tolerance for cigarettes. I never smoke. I don’t even
put myself in situations where there is smoking. I actually stopped
going out for this reason only, but now with the smoking ban, I can
begin going out again.
How many countries have you been to? Or have you long-since
stopped counting?
I’ve never counted.
What does traveling mean to you?
Traveling for me is experience. And experience is paramount to my
perspective on life.
What kind of traveler are you? What do you do before departing?
Where do you like to go if it’s your first time in a country? What do
you take photos of and what do you like to try?
I like to read up on the history and people of a country before departure.
Luckily the Internet makes this sort of research easy; the information is
readily accessible. I think it’s the biggest invention of the last century
35
Görmek isteyip de gidemedi¤iniz bir ülke
var m›?
Var tabi. K›z›l Çin’i görmek istiyorum.
Bu zamana kadar neden gitmediniz?
36
F›rsat›m olmad›. Asl›nda f›rsatlar›m› kendim
yarat›r›m. En k›sa zamanda f›rsat yaratmal›y›m
san›r›m. Bir de baz› ülkeler beni ça¤›rm›yor.
Mesela ‹ran’›n beni ça¤›rmas› gerekir ama
ça¤›rm›yor. Belki Persia ça¤›r›yordur da ‹ran
ça¤›rm›yordur. Eski haliyle olsa giderdim kesin.
Diyelim ‹stanbul’a yabanc› bir arkadafl›n›z
geliyor. Bu flehri gezmek için sadece bir günü
var. Onu nerelere götürürsünüz, nereleri
gezdirirsiniz?
Bildi¤imiz ‹stanbul turunu yapmak laz›m.
Sultanahmet, Ayasofya, Topkap›, Kapal›çarfl›
vard›r ya. Bu tur bittikten sonra Osmanl› saray
yemeklerini tatt›rmak için Kanaat Lokantas›’na
götürebilirim.
Yeni sezonda neler yapmay› planl›yorsunuz?
Ramazan’dan istifade bir CD haz›rlanacak. Malum
konserler duruyor Ramazan’da. Bir tane Alaçat›
Il›ca Tuval on the Beach’de olacak. Ramazan’dan
sonra her ay yapt›¤›m›z gibi Ghetto’da ve Babylon
‹stanbul’da konserlere devam edece¤iz. Ekim
bafl›nda bir proje daha var. Yurt d›fl›ndan birinci
lig müzisyenleri ça¤›rd›k. Bizde de çok iyi müzisyenler var ama dünya liginde oynamak baflka
birfley. Celia Cruz diye bir projemiz var.
Celia Cruz flark›lar›n› al›p yorumlayaca¤›z.
Peru’dan Cesar Correa, Colombia’dan Rodrigo
Rodriguez ve Cuba’dan Lenia Diaz gelecek.
since the wheel and fire. I like to try the local cuisine,
but like I said, I won’t try monkey brain. Of course
I take photos, but I prefer life photography. I don’t
believe in the whole ‘I must take photos of the local
citizens’ mantra. My variety includes photographing
anything from the best nightclub to samba dancing
women.
Is there anywhere you would like to go but
haven’t yet had the chance?
Of course. I would like to see Red China.
Why haven’t you visited thus far?
I haven’t had the chance. I create my own
opportunities, to be completely honest. I think I have
to create an opportunity as soon as possible. Some
countries don’t interest me. For example, Iran doesn’t
interest me whatsoever. Maybe Persia, but not Iran.
If the old Iran existed I would go for sure.
Let’s say you have a tourist friend in town.
And he only has one day to see Istanbul. Where
would you take him?
He must do the Istanbul tour that we’re all familiar
with. Sultanahmet, Hagia Sofia, Topkap› Palace,
the Grand Bazaar. And I’d end the tour with a stop at
Kanaat Restaurant, so my friend could try Ottoman
delicacies.
What do you have planned for the upcoming
season?
We’re taking advantage of Ramadan to prepare
a CD. Of course concerts are put on hold during
Ramadan. There will be one at Alaçat› Il›ca Tuval on
the Beach. After Ramadan, we will resume with our
monthly Ghetto and Babylon Istanbul concerts, as
always. There is another project slated for the
beginning of October. We’ve invited the best musicians
from around the world. We have some great musicians
as well but it’s a whole other thing to compete with
the world’s greatest musicians. We have another
project called Celia Cruz. We’ll take Celia Cruz’s
songs and do our own interpretations of them. Also,
Peru’s Cesar Correa, Colombia’s Rodrigo Rodriguez
and Cuba’s Lenia Diaz will be coming to Istanbul.
DQ
38
YEMEK-FOOD
Karadeniz Sofras›
Yemyeflil do¤as›, lacivert denizi ile büyüleyen Karadeniz’in mutfa¤› hamsi,
karalahana ve m›s›r dolu. Pidesinin ve kuyma¤›n›n tad›ysa baflka
topraklarda istense de bulunmuyor. Y A Z I - B Y E L ‹ F E R E N
C
o¤rafya ve iklim flartlar› nas›l dünya mutfaklar›n› flekillendiriyorsa Karadeniz de k›y›ya paralel
uzanan da¤lar›ndan nasibini alm›fl. K›y› fleridi ile da¤lar›n arkas›nda kalan bölge aras›nda mutfak
kültürü de¤ifliklik gösteriyor. Hayat› zorlaflt›ran iklim ve engebe yüzünden ço¤u yerde tar›ma
elveriflli olmayan topraklara ra¤men sofras› oturulas›d›r . Küreselleflen damak zevklerimize
ra¤men Karadeniz’de mutfak gelenekselli¤ini hiç yitirmemesi onu bir kez daha özel k›l›yor.
H›rç›n denizi bal›klar›n› hiçbir mevsim esirgemez. Üstelik Karadeniz birçok nehrin döküldü¤ü bir
deniz oldu¤undan bal›klar›n besin maddesi planktonlardan yana suyu zengin. Bu da besin de¤eri
yüksek ve lezzetli bal›klar demek. Bal›¤›n envai çeflidi var bu sularda. Ama hamsinin krall›¤› asla
inkar edilemez. Hamsiyle yaflad›klar› bambaflka bir aflkt›r Karadenizlilerin. Daha da ötesi, hamsi
neredeyse bir yaflam biçimidir. Hamsili pilav, bu¤ulama, hamsi kuflu, hamsi çorbas› hamsili
tariflerden en bilinenleri. Ama ellerinden gelse her yeme¤e, her ö¤üne dahil ederler hamsiyi...
Birkaç y›l önce hamsi tutkunu bir aflç›n›n hamsili baklava yapma giriflimleri bunun ispat›.
Karadeniz mutfa¤›n›n bafltaçlar›ndan biri de karalahana. Lahana ailesinin 450 ferdinden biri olan
karalahanan›n çorbas›, diblesi, sarmas› ve kavurmas› yap›l›yor. Fasulye ve fleker kam›fl›
turflular›yla yap›lan kavurmalar gibi sebze turflular›ndan yap›lan yemekler de Karadeniz
39
A seat
at the
Black Sea table
With all of its natural beauty in surroundings and landscape it’s no wonder that
Black Sea region cuisine has made it to the top of the list of world cuisines.
With plenty of anchovies, cabbage and corn, along with pide and mincemeat,
cuisine from this region cannot be found elsewhere and is unlike any other.
T
he food from a particular region tends to depend on that region’s geographical location; the Black
Sea gets its inspiration for food from the mountainous landscape and bays surrounding it. The
unevenness of the region makes for uncultivable land, also making it a difficult place for human life
to thrive. However, the location of the region allows for there to be many different food options for
those who live there due to the weather conditions. For those who have never tried cuisine from the
Black Sea region, the first time is always a pleasant and memorable experience.
Below the waters of the Black Sea, the fish do not make any exceptions for the seasonal harsh
conditions. Nearby rivers flow into the salty waters, which in turn make the fish flavorful due to a
variety in their diet, making for tasty fish that please the palate. The fresh waters bring with them
plankton, other smaller fish species, and minerals which the fish consume. These mixed waters are
home to a variety of fish species, including their own ‘chicken of the sea’, the anchovy. This fish
takes the number one spot for the Black Sea peoples; it has become somewhat of a lifestyle that
people utilize frequently. Dishes including anchovies are more than plentiful, and if given the
chance are served at nearly every meal. Anchovies with rice, steamed anchovies, stuffed or fried
anchovies, and anchovy soup are just some of the well-known dishes. A few years back, a chef who
40
mutfa¤›n›n olmazsa olmaz›. Ama hepsinden önce
sofran›n bafl köflesine m›s›r kuruluyor. 17. yüzy›lda
Güney Amerika’dan Karadeniz’e gelen m›s›r o gün
bugündür Karadeniz’in göz bebe¤i. Türkiye’nin m›s›r
üretiminin ço¤unlu¤u Karadeniz’de yap›lsa da bu
üretim bölgenin kendi ihtiyac›n› karfl›lamaya ancak
yetiyor. Sebze-meyve tar›m›na elveriflli olmayan
yerlerde dahi m›s›r ekiminin yap›labilmesi ayr› bir
avantaj. Yöre halk› bahçelerinde m›s›r yetifltiriyor.
M›s›r›n kullan›m flekilleri de çok çeflitli; kurutulur,
hafllan›r, ö¤ütülüp unundan faydalan›l›r... M›s›r
ekme¤i Karadeniz’de en çok tüketilen ekmek çeflidi.
Türkiye’nin her bölgesinde oldu¤u gibi Karadeniz’de
de peynir ve tereya¤› üretilir. Özel bir peynir kullan›larak haz›rlanan, muhlama veya kuymak olarak
adland›r›lan, kalorisine ra¤men diyette olanlar›n bile
geri çeviremeyece¤i bir lezzet. Dört mevsim ya¤›fl
ald›¤›ndan Karadeniz’in yeflili de bol. Karadenizlilerin
bahçesinde hatta yol kenarlar›nda bol miktarda
lezzetli otlar bulunur. Balkaba¤› da ana yemek olarak
en çok Karadeniz mutfa¤›nda de¤erlendiriliyor.
Karadeniz’den tüm yurda yay›lan di¤er lezzetleri de es
geçmemek laz›m. F›nd›¤›, çay› ve dillere destan Anzer
bal› sadece Karadeniz’de de¤il tüm dünyada tan›n›yor.
Karadeniz’in üstünlü¤ünün tart›fl›lmaz oldu¤u
lezzetlerden biri pide. Trabzon’un, Samsun’un,
Bafra’n›n, Terme’nin, Giresun’un, Görele’nin kendi
adlar›yla an›lan dillere destan pideleri var. Pidenin
aç›k ya da kapal›, uzun ya da k›sa olufluna göre isimler
de¤iflse de lezzeti her daim parmak yediren cinsten.
Hele yörenin tereya¤›, peyniri ve kavurmas›yla
yap›l›rsa pidenin tad›na doyum olmuyor. Çal›çiçe¤i,
merevcen, hofluran, mendek, kuzukula¤›, ›s›rgan,
mad›mak, bald›ran, taflan, sakarca bölgede yeme¤i
yap›lan otlardan baz›lar›. Birçoklar›na yabani ot,
diken gibi görülen bu yeflillikler genellikle kavrularak
ya da çorbas› yap›larak al›fl›lmad›k lezzetleriyle
sofralar› süsler.
was known for his love of anchovies, attempted to
create anchovy baklava, illustrating the love for the
fish in the region.
The Black Sea kitchen also takes great pride in the
abundance of cabbage (Karalahana) in their dishes.
With over 450 different kinds of cabbage to choose
from, there are just as many dishes to go along.
Cabbage soup, chopped cabbage salad, stuffed cabbage
leaves, and fried cabbage, are just a few that are
popular in the area. Black Sea cuisine also includes
many pickled vegetables with their dishes; for example,
pickled with sugar cane, string beans are served with
fried cabbage.
One thing that is never absent from a meal is corn.
Corn is served with most dishes, or just eaten on its
own. Corn came to the Black Sea region during the
17th century from South America, and from thereon
out, became a sensation in the kitchen. Harvesting
corn in the Black Sea region is not common, since it
Özel bir peynir kullan›larak haz›rlanan,
muhlama veya kuymak olarak adland›r›lan,
kalorisine ra¤men diyette olanlar›n bile
geri çeviremeyece¤i bir lezzet.
Kuymak (a dish made with vegetables
and eggs), for example, is made with a
special cheese from the region which
gives it its savory taste, and even for
those who try their best to stray away
from high-fat dishes can’t resist this one.
41
would have to be harvested in mass quantities. This is
because the corn available is sufficient for the people
living there, to harvest it would require much more
effort than the region is willing to give at the moment.
Corn is harvested in back-gardens and used many
different ways in cooking. Dried, steamed, or in
powder form, corn is made the most of here. Corn
bread is another specialty of the Black Sea region, not
to mention the most popular type of bread eaten there.
Just as every region in Turkey has its own butter &
cheese production, so does the Black Sea. Kuymak
(a dish made with vegetables and eggs), for example,
is made with a special cheese from the region which
gives it its savory taste, and even for those who try
their best to stray away from high-fat dishes can’t
resist this one.
Due to rainfall during each season of the year, the
Black Sea region is famous for its greenery. This
provides a lush home for vegetables, fruits, and other
herbs to grow comfortably. It isn’t uncommon to find
in the backyard of someone’s house different herbs and
other edible plants growing. It’s also not uncommon to
see this sort of gardening happening along highways
and streets.
Pumpkin is another delicacy for the people of the Black
Sea region. It is served as a main course or dessert for
obvious reasons. The vegetable is sweet, filling and
highly nutritious.
Other delicacies from the region include: Hazelnuts,
varieties of tea, and Anzer honey (which is an acquired
taste, unique to the area and known worldwide).
Another popular delicacy from the Black Sea region
is pide. Pide resembles pita bread, and nearly every
city in the region has its own kind. Trabzon,
Samsun, Bafra, Terme, Giresun, and Göreli each make
their own kind of pide which each go by a different
name. Pide can be served in many different ways:
open, closed, long, short. All the different kinds of
ways to make and serve pide, with butter, cheese and
meat (if desired), is how they each came to acquire
their different names.
Hamsili Pilav
Anchovy Rice
Malzemeler
■ 1 kg hamsi
■ 400 gr pirinç
■ 2 so¤an
■ 1 çorba kafl›¤› kufl üzümü
■ 1 çorba kafl›¤› dolmal›k f›st›k
■ 1 çay barda¤› s›v›ya¤
■ 2 çorba kafl›¤› tereya¤›
■ 1 su barda¤› su
■ Yar›m demet maydanoz
■ Tuz, karabiber, pulbiber
Yap›l›fl› Hamsileri ay›klay›p y›kay›n. Pirinci y›kay›p
süzün. So¤an ve maydanozu ince ince do¤ray›p
pirince ekleyin. Kufl üzümü, f›st›k, tuz ve baharatlar›
ilave edip iyice kar›flt›r›n. Tepsiyi ya¤lay›p taban›n› ve
kenarlar›n› kaplayacak flekilde bir s›ra hamsi dizin.
Pirinçli kar›fl›m› üzerine yay›p kalan hamsilerle kaplay›n.
Üzerine s›v›ya¤ ve eritilmifl tereya¤›n› gezdirin. Suyu
ilave edip tepsinin üzerini kapat›n. K›s›k ateflte piflirin,
s›cak servis yap›n.
Ingredients
■ 1 kg anchovies
■ 400 gr rice
■ 2 onions
■ 1 tablespoon currents
■ 1 tablespoon pine nuts
■ 1 tea glass vegetable oil
■ 2 tablespoons butter
■ 1 cup water
■ 1.2 bundle parsley
■ Salt, pepper, paprika
Directions Separate and wash the anchovies. Prepare
the rice. Dice the parsley and onions and mix with the
rice. Add in the currents, nuts, salt and spices. Coat
the pot with butter and place the anchovies along the
sides. Put in the rice and place the remaining
anchovies on the top, covering the surface. Drizzle
vegetable oil and melted butter over the top for extra
flavor. Add water and close the lid of the pot. Heat on
a low flame. Serve hot.
42
DEDEMAN
R‹ZE
EXECUTIVE
fiEF/CHEF
ALAATT‹N
ÖZYURT
M›s›r Ekme¤i
Cornbread
Malzemeler
■ 500 gr m›s›r unu
■ 1 tatl› kafl›¤› tuz
■ Su (kek k›vam›n› alana kadar)
■ 2 çorba kafl›¤› s›v›ya¤
Yap›l›fl› Unu ve tuzu ›l›k suyla kar›flt›rarak orta sertlikte
bir hamur elde edin. Tavaya biraz s›v›ya¤ koyun.
Hamuru tavaya eflit oranda yay›n. Ters yüz ederek
pembeleflinceye kadar piflirin.
Ingredients
■ 500 gr corn flour
■ 1 dessertspoon salt
■ Water (use until cake batter consistency)
■ 2 spoons vegetable oil
Directions Make dough by mixing the corn flour, salt
and water (at room temp). Spread the dough evenly on
the surface of the pan. Reverse the bread to see if it
has turned a pinkish color. If so, then the bread is ready
to be removed from the oven.
Laz Böre¤i
Laz Pastry
Malzemeler
■ 200 gr. süt
■ 1/2 adet yumurta
■ 20 gr.niflasta
■ 100 gr.un
■ 1/4 adet limon
■ 50 gr.toz fleker
■ 15 gr.tereya¤›
Yap›l›fl› Derin bir kab›n içersinde süt kaynamaya b›rak›l›r,
niflasta suland›r›l›p ilave edilir. fieker konulup yumurta
ilave edildikten sonra çorba k›vam›na getirildi¤inde
ocaktan indirilir.
Hamurun yap›l›fl› Baklava hamuru aç›l›r. Tepsinin alt›na
bir k›sm› dizilir. ‹çersine iç harc› ilave edildikten sonra
üzerine hamurun kalan k›sm› örtülür ve erimifl tereya¤› ile
üzeri ya¤land›ktan sonra k›zarmas› için f›r›na verilir.
F›r›ndan ç›kart›ld›ktan sonra önceden haz›rlanm›fl flurup
konulur ve so¤umaya b›rak›l›r.
So¤uk servis yap›l›r.
Ingredients
■ 200 gr. milk
■ 1/2 an egg
■ 20 gr. corn starch
■ 100 gr. flour
■ 1/4 lemon
■ 50 gr. powdered sugar
■ 15 gr. butter
Directions Boil the milk in a large pot. When it comes to
a boil, add in the corn starch gradually. Once you add
the powdered sugar in, it should form a soup-like
texture, remove the pot from the stove when this
happens.
Using the dough Start with baklava dough sheets,
place them on the bottom of the pan. Add all the ingredients in the center and fold over the dough from all four
corners, meeting in the middle. Pour the melted butter
all over and place the pan in the oven. After taking the
pan out of the oven, prepare the syrup and pour it over,
leave to cool. Served cold.
Kara Lahana Sarmas›
Black Cabbage Wraps
Malzemeler
■ 30 gr. dana k›yma
■ Kara lahana yapra¤›
■ 10 gr. kuru so¤an
■ 10 gr. pirinç
■ 10 gr. domates
■ 5 gr. tuz
■ 3 gr. pul biber
■ 2 gr. iç ya¤›
■ 3 gr. sar›msak
■ 3 gr. tereya¤›
■ 5 gr. salça
■ 1/10 ba¤ maydanoz
Yap›l›fl› Dana k›yman›n içersine pirinç, kuru so¤an,
domates, tuz, iç ya¤›, maydanoz, sar›msak, pul biber
kar›flt›r›l›r. Kaynar suda hafllanm›fl lahana yapraklar›n›n
damarl› k›s›mlar› kesilir, yapraklar ters çevrilerek sarma
ifllemi yap›l›r. Derin kab›n içersine dizilir. Üzerine ya¤da
sote edilmifl salça, su ve baharat ilave edildikten sonra iç
kapak d›fl kapak koyarak piflmeye b›rak›l›r. Yaklafl›k
30 dakika k›s›k ateflte piflen sarmalar yan›nda yo¤urtla
s›cak servis edilir.
Ingredients
■ 30 gr. ground beef
■ 10 gr. dry onions
■ 10 gr. rice
■ 10 gr. tomatoes
■ 5 gr. salt
■ 3 gr. paprika
■ 2 gr. tallow
■ 3 gr. garlic
■ 3 gr. butter
■ 5 gr. tomato paste
■ 1/10 bundle of parsley
■ Black cabbage leaves
Directions Mix up the ground beef with the rice, dried
onions, tomatoes, salt, tallow, parsley, garlic and
paprika. Place it in the cabbage leaves (which should be
laid down with the inside facing you) and roll it all up.
Place the rolled cabbage leaves upright in a large pot.
Drizzle the tomato paste, which has been sautéed in a
pan, on top of the cabbage leaves, while also adding
in water and spices. Place the lid on the pot and leave
to cook. Cook on a low light for 30 minutes. Serve hot
with cold yogurt on the side.
Nerede Kal›n›r?
Dedemen Rize (0464) 223 44 44 Ali Pafla Koyu, Rize
Dedeman Rize’nin 82 odas› Karadeniz’den, ormanlardan ve da¤lardan
harika manzaralar sunuyor. Barlar›, restoranlar› ve toplant› imkanlar› ile
ideal bir ifl oteli. Otelin sükuneti ve özel plaj› keyifli bir tatil isteyen
misafirler için de ideal bir alternatif sunuyor.
Staying there
Dedemen Rize (+90 464) 223 44 44 Ali Pafla Koyu, Rize
Dedeman Rize has 82 hotel rooms, offer stunning views out over the
Black Sea, forests and mountains. With its bars, restaurants and
meeting facilities the hotel is ideally located for business. The
tranguility of the hotel and its private beach represents a unique
choice for leisure guests as well.
DQ
44
KÜLTÜR&SANAT-CULTURE
& ART
Ayasofya
Hagia Sophia
‹stanbul’da
Çok az kent tarihi, sanat›, esteti¤i, e¤lenceyi bir arada sunar.
Tüm zenginlikleriyle dünyan›n gözünü kamaflt›ran ‹stanbul’un günü geldi.
Very few cities offer history, aesthetics, art and fun. Encompassing all of
these traits, it has come time for Istanbul to shine.
YAZI-BY EL‹F EREN
Robinson Crusoe
O
rhan Pamuk ‘‹stanbul, Hat›ralar ve fiehir’
kitab›nda bu flehrin gri, siyah-beyaz hüznünü bir
imparatorlu¤un yenilgisine ba¤lar. Osmanl›’n›n
‹stanbul’un sadece silüetinde de¤il ruhunda da derin
izler b›rakt›¤› aflikar. ‹mparatorlu¤un rengini oluflturan
halklar›n geçidi eskisi kadar ahenkli de¤il. Maziden
kalma en büyük kalp a¤r›s› bu olmal› belki de. Ama
bugün Osmanl› izlerinin ço¤u yenilginin ezikli¤inden
s›yr›lm›fl, flaflaal› bir miras›n sefas› sürülüyor. fiehrin
geçmifline eklenmifl ça¤dafl yüzü, sanatta ve yaflam
stilinde yaflanan yarat›c› bir devrimle flehri an be an
dönüfltürüyor. Bir yabanc›n›n ‹stanbul gezisinin
Beyo¤lu’nda bafllamas› ad› konmam›fl bir gelenek.
Çünkü Beyo¤lu eskiyle yeninin karmafl›k ama zengin
birlikteli¤inin aynas›. Bizans döneminde ba¤ ve bahçe
olarak kullan›lan Beyo¤lu, 18. yüzy›lda Avrupa etkisinde
geliflmeye bafllad›. O günden kalan pek çok yap›da bu
etki hissediliyor. Hayat›n hiç durmadan akt›¤› caddede
Çiçek Pasaj›, Nevizade ve Büyükparmakkap› Soka¤›’nda
yo¤unlaflan mekânlar farkl› türden e¤lence anlay›fllar›na
hitap ediyor. Cadde, e¤lencenin ve al›flveriflin oldu¤u
kadar sanat›n da atardamar›. Murat Pilevneli’nin
Galerist’i (‹stiklâl Caddesi M›s›r Apartman› 311/4,
Beyo¤lu) ve Garanti Bankas›’n›n güncel sanata hediyesi
Platform (‹stiklâl Caddesi 115-a, Beyo¤lu) asla demode
olmayan galeriler. Robinson Crusoe (‹stiklal Caddesi,
389) zengin bir sanat kitaplar›, alternatif dergiler ve
roman koleksiyonuna sahip. ‹stedi¤inizi bulamazsan›z
›smarlayabilirsiniz de.
Çiçek Pasaj›
‹stiklal Caddesi
istiklal Street
45
O
rhan Pamuk’s book “Istanbul: Memories and the
City”, explains the city’s gray, black and white
melancholy after the defeat of the Empire. The Ottoman
era has left remnants of itself; not only in Istanbul’s skies
but in the very depths of its soul. The merging of the
peoples, which once made up the Empire’s colorful face,
is not as harmonious anymore. This must be Istanbul’s
biggest heartache. However, today most of the remains
from the Ottoman Empire cancel out the shame of the
defeat, and are enjoying the glamour of a wealthy
inheritance. The modern face of the city, transforms it
minute by minute with creative innovations in its arts
and different life styles. It is an unwritten rule for a
foreigner to start his journey of Istanbul in Beyo¤lu, for
Beyo¤lu reflects perfectly the city’s rich and complex
merge of old and new. The district, formerly a garden
and a vineyard area, began to develop under European
influence in the 18th century, and this influence is felt
even today in most of the buildings remaining from that
era. Life thrives incessantly on the main street, and the
side streets such as Nevizade, Çiçek Pasaj› and
Büyükparmakkap›, with numerous locations, offer a
different experience of entertainment to those who seek it.
Beyo¤lu, aside from being a favorite location in Istanbul
Yakup
46
La cave
Antre Gourmet
Kapal›çarfl›
Kapal›çarfl› Fatih taraf›ndan kurulmufl, Kanuni
döneminde büyütülmüfl, 1701 y›l›nda bugünkü
plan›yla infla edilmifl. Kurflun rengi yüzlerce
kubbesi, 30.700 metrekarelik bir alana yay›lan
61 soka¤› ve 4000’e yak›n dükkan› ile otantik bir
Do¤u çarfl›s›. Sokaklar›n her biri ayr› bir dünya ve
burada al›flverifl yapmak art›k biraz turistik kaçsa
da hala eski zamanlardan kalma bir rüya gibi.
Semerkand Suzani
(0212) 526 22 69
Ya¤l›kç›lar Caddesi, Astarc› Han 25
Birbirinden güzel kaftanlardan, Özbek dokumalar›
Suzani’lerden, feslerden, kutulardan, Türkmen ifli saç
süslerinden edinmek için do¤ru adres.
Antique Objet
(0212) 526 74 51
Zenneciler Caddesi 48-50
www.antiqueobjet.com
Eski ve otantik tekstil ürünleri, yast›klar, çantalar,
kemerler, ayakkab›lar, terlikler, otantik mücevherler
burada.
K›y›c› Bag
(0212) 526 51 81
Kürkçüler Caddesi 9
Prada, Gucci, YLS taklidi çantalara ra¤bet çok fazla,
ama taklitler d›fl›nda da güzel çantalar var.
Abdulla Natural Products ‹stanbul
(0212) 522 90 78
Hal›c›lar Caddesi 53
www.abdulla.com
Do¤u, Güneydo¤u Anadolu’dan toplanan yerel
dokumalar, el dokumas› kumafllar, havlular,
pefltemaller, keseler, hamam setleri ve daha neler....
A¤a Camii ile St. Antoine Katolik Kilisesi’nin bafl›
çekti¤i dini yap›lar hem ibadete hem ziyarete aç›k.
Beyo¤lu’nun uydular› Cihangir ve Tünel de eski ekol
mimarilerinden kaynaklanan hofllu¤u, fl›k kafelerle ve
sanat galerileriyle perçinliyor. Bu semtlerin sakinleri
de ça¤dafl sanat ortam›n›n içinde birebir yer alan
insanlar, sanatç› olmasalar da sanat müdavimleri.
Cihangir bohem hayat›n gözbebe¤i hala. Bir yandan da
kafeleriyle ve dükkanlar›yla damak tad›n› göklere
ç›kar›yor. Antre Gourmet (Bakraç Sokak 14/C) çok
çeflitli yöresel ve ithal peynirleriyle tam bir peynir
cenneti. 400 civar› yerli ve 1000 civar› yabanc›
flarab›n sat›ld›¤› La Cave (S›raselviler Caddesi 207)
Türkiye’nin en genifl flarap kav›na sahip. ‹stiklal
Caddesi’nin sonunda, halen yolcu tafl›maya devam
eden dünyan›n en eski üçüncü tünelinden ad›n› alan
Tünel’in en canl› mahallesi Asmal›mescit, 20.
yüzy›lda Bolflevik devriminden kaç›p ‹stanbul’a gelen
Ruslar›n açt›¤› lokanta ve e¤lence yerleriyle
tan›n›rm›fl. Yak›n tarihten bir dönemini kargaflaya
kurban verse de bugün yine ‹stanbul’un en canl›
semtlerinden. Yakup (Asmal›mescit Sokak 35/37)
müdavimleri ve mezeleriyle hiç tart›flmas›z
‹stanbul’un en iyi meyhanelerinden. 55 y›ll›k
mazisinde her daim sanatç›lar›n buluflma yeri olan
Refik’te (Sofyal› Sokak 7/10/12) rak› bir kültür.
2005’te aç›lmas›na ra¤men efsane olmay› garantileyen
Otto Tünel’i (fiehbender Sokak 5/1) 2008’de
Otto’lar›n dördüncüsü Otto Sofyal› (Sofyal› Sokak
22/A) izledi. Her iki mekanda da haftasonlar› yer
PANDORA’S BOX
The Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar was first built during the reign
of Mehmet the Conqueror; it has been expanded
since the time of Süleyman the Magnificent, and
acquired its final structure in 1701. It is an
authentic Eastern bazaar with hundreds of domes
the color of lead, 61 streets spreading over a vast
area of 30.700 square meters, and nearly 4000
shops. Each of the streets are a different world
by themselves and even though shopping there is
a little touristy thing to do, it is nevertheless like
a dream from the past.
Semerkand Suzani
(+90 212) 526 22 69 Ya¤l›kç›lar Cad. Astarc› Han 25
The right place to buy gorgeous kaftans, Uzbek-knit
Suzanis, fezs, boxes and Turkmen style hair
decorations.
Antique Objet
(+90 212) 526 74 51
Zenneciler Caddesi 48-50
www.antiqueobjet.com
For old, authentic textiles, pillows, bags, belts,
shoes, slippers, and jewellery.
K›y›c› Bag
(+90 212) 526 51 81
Kürkçüler Caddesi 9
Favorites here are Prada, Gucci and YSL knock-offs,
and also other very appealing bags.
Abdulla Natural Products ‹stanbul
(+90 212) 522 90 78
Hal›c›lar Caddesi 53 www.abdulla.com
Local knits from Eastern and Southeastern Anatolia,
hand woven cloths, towels, waistcloths, bath gloves
and many, many more…
for shopping and entertainment, is also where artistic
life resonates. Murat Pilevneli’s Galerist (‹stiklâl
Caddesi M›s›r Apartman› 311/4, Beyo¤lu), and
Garanti Bank’s contribution to modern art, Platform
(‹stiklâl Caddesi 115-a, Beyo¤lu), are art galleries
which never grow old. Robinson Crusoe (‹stiklal
Caddesi, 389), has a rich collection of books on art,
novels and alternative magazines. If on a rare occasion
you don’t find what you are looking for, you can place
an order for it. Religious buildings, above all A¤a
Mosque and St. Antoine Catholic Church, are open both
for prayers and visits. Cihangir and Tünel, Beyo¤lu’s
antennae, excel in elegance, stemming from classic
architecture with beautiful cafes and art galleries. The
residents of these neighborhoods are very much a part of
the modern art scene. Cihangir boasts a bohemian life
style, and is also a delight to the taste buds with its
wide selection of cuisine. Antre Gourmet (Bakraç
Sokak 14/C) is a cheese haven with various local and
foreign products. La Cave (S›raselviler Caddesi 207)
supports Turkey’s largest wine collection (Kavaklidere)
along with 400 regional and 1000 foreign wines.
At the other end of Istiklal Street, Tünel’s liveliest
neighborhood, Asmal›mescit, used to be famous with
restaurants and entertainment venues for Russians who
escaped during the Bolshevik Revolution. Tünel’s name
comes from the third oldest underground train tunnel in
the world; it is still in function to this day. Even
though it had unfortunately lost some of its glamour
due to tumults and commotions, it is still one of
Istanbul’s hippest districts. Yakup (Asmal›mescit Sokak
35/37), with its mezes and regulars, is without a doubt
one of Istanbul’s best taverns. Refik (Sofyal› Sokak
7/10/12), has been a meeting point for various artists
Otto Sofyal›
Refik
47
Cemil ‹pekçi Atölyesi
48
bulmak lükse giriyor. Moda takipçisi ma¤azalar›n ve fl›k
kafelerin oldu¤u Niflantafl› da Beyo¤lu’nun sosyetik
uzant›s› gibi. Gucci, Armani gibi dünya markalar›n›n
yan› s›ra Türk modac›lar›n da ço¤u Niflantafl›’n› mesken
ediniyor. Cemil ‹pekçi’nin atölyesinde (Orhan Ersek
Sokak 46/1) k›yafetler gösteriflleriyle Osmanl›’ya göz
k›rp›yor. Arzu Kaprol (Atiye Sokak 53/2) ‹stanbul’un en gözde tasar›mc›lar›ndan. Ününün tüm ülkeye
yay›lmas›n› sade ama fl›k tarz›na borçlu. Beyo¤lu
çevresini ve Niflantafl›’n› turlamak ‹stanbullular için
günlük yaflam›n ayr›lmaz bir parças›. Bir nevi
al›flkanl›¤a dönüflen bu zinciri k›rmak ve belki de ço¤u
flehir sakininin ad›m atmad›¤› yollarda yürümek için
pusulay› tarihi yar›madaya çevirmek gerekiyor.
Yüzlerce y›ll›k misafirperverlik gelene¤ini yaflatan
Balat, Haliç’in güneyinde Ayvansaray ve Fener aras›nda
küçük bir semt. Arnavut kald›r›ml› dar sokaklara
s›ralanan cumbal› evleri, kilise ve sinagoglar›, Rum
liseleri ve hamamlar›yla siyah-beyaz bir foto¤raf karesi
gibi. Ço¤u bak›ms›zl›ktan y›k›lmak üzere gibi duran tafl
binalar› iç ac›t›yor. Eminönü Meydan› tüm zamanlar›n
Süleymaniye Camii
all throughout its 55 yr-long history; raki is a culture
by itself. After Otto Tünel (fiehbender Sokak 5/1),
already a legend even though it opened in 2005, Otto
Sofyal› (Sofyal› Sokak 22/A) opened up in 2008. It is
an unrivaled luxury to be able to find a place at either
of the locations on the weekends. N›santafl›, where
fashionable shops and glamorous cafes line the streets, is
an extension of Beyo¤lu. Aside from high-end labels,
such as Gucci and Armani, many Turkish brands have
inhabited the N›santafl› shops. In Cemil ‹pekçi’s
atelier ((Orhan Ersek Sokak 46/1), the clothes boast an
Ottoman air with their glamour. Arzu Kaprol (Atiye
Sokak 53/2) is one of Istanbul’s favorite designers and
owes her fame to her simple but elegant designed
apparel. It is very common for those living in Istanbul to
stroll through Beyo¤lu and N›santafl› quite frequently. In
order to break the habit and to take a trip down to
places where the locals don’t frequently go, one must
turn the compass towards the direction of the historical
peninsula, Balat. Balat, which has preserved its
hospitable atmosphere throughout the centuries, is a
little district between Ayvansaray and Fener. With its
narrow streets and Rumelian styled houses with bay
windows, churches, synagogues, and hamams, it is like
taking a step into the past. However, it is painful to
look at the old stone houses, which are dilapidated or in
ruins. Eminönü Square is a timeless classic. In the
garden of the Süleymaniye mosque, (which is said to
Niflantafl›
49
50
51
Topkap› Saray›
Ayasofya
klasiklerinden. Mimar Sinan’›n kalfal›k dönemi eseri
olarak an›lsa da dört minaresi ve on flerefesi ile
oldukça görkemli Süleymaniye Camii’nin
bahçesinde Kanuni Sultan Süleyman’›n ve Hürrem
Sultan’›n türbeleri var. Vaktiyle Kahire’den gelen
mallar›n sat›ld›¤› M›s›r Çarfl›s› baharatlar›, lokumlar›, flifal› bitkileriyle renk ve koku cümbüflü. Alt›
minaresiyle ünlü Sultanahmet Camii’nin mimar›
Sedefkar Mehmet A¤a. Yirmi binin üzerinde ‹znik
çinisi ile süslü caminin 260 penceresinden içeri günefl
vurdu¤unda içeriyi mavi ve turkuaz tonlarda bir ›fl›k
kapl›yor.
Bu yüzden yabanc›lar buraya Mavi Cami diyorlar.
Fatih Sultan Mehmet’in ‹stanbul’u fethettikten sonra
yapt›rd›¤› Topkap› Saray›, müze olarak gezilebiliyor. Saray alabildi¤ine genifl oldu¤undan ve içinde
sergilenen eserlerin çoklu¤undan buraya oldukça uzun
zaman ay›rmak gerekiyor. Bizans imparatoru
‹ustinianos’un yapt›rd›¤› Yerebatan Sarn›c›,
sütunlar› ve etkileyici mimarisiyle çarp›c› bir mekan.
Özellikle iki sütuna kaide olarak kullan›lm›fl Gorgon
bafl› kabartmalar› oldukça ilginç. ‹ustinianos’un eski
Roma ‹mparatorlu¤u’nu bir araya getirme düflüncesiyle görkemli bir kilise yapt›rma ideali sonucu do¤an
have been built during the times when Architect Sinan
was only a assistant architect) is quite magnificent with
its four minarets and ten minaret balconies, the
mausoleums of Suleiman the Magnificent and of his wife,
Hurrem are also found here. The Egyptian Bazaar,
where goods coming from Cairo had been sold, is to this
day a mixture of colors and smells sweeping one off one’s
feet, with different lokums (Turkish delight), spices and
healing herbs. The architect of the famous Sultanahmet
Mosque, which was decorated with 20,000 tiles from
Iznik, is Sedefkar Mehmet A¤a. When sunlight pours in
through the mosque’s 260 windows, a turquoise-green
light fills up the entire space, which is why foreigners
call the mosque the Blue Mosque. The Topkap› Palace,
built by Mehmed the Conqueror after his victory, is now
an open museum. Because the place is colossal and the
valuables displayed inside numerous, one needs to spend
a long seeing Topkap›. The Basilica Cisterns, built by
the Byzantine Emperor Iustinianos, is an intriguing
place with its columns and impressive architecture.
Especially the two Heads of Medussa, used as a base for
two columns, are quite interesting. It is also impossible
to not be impressed by the wondrous architecture of the
Hagia Sophia Church, built also by Iustinianos with
Kanl›ca
52
Ortaköy
Bo¤aziçi
Ayasofya’n›n görkemli mimarisinden etkilenmemek
mümkün de¤il. Yap›n›n en can al›c› yan› olan devasa
kubbesini 16 y›ld›r örten iskele geçti¤imiz aylarda
nihayet kald›r›ld›. Böylece 160 y›ld›r karanl›kta kalan,
en son Sultan Abdülmecit ve o dönem yap›n›n
restorasyonunu yürüten mimar Fossati'nin gördü¤ü,
üzerleri s›va ve metal maskeyle kapat›lan alt› kanatl›
melek figüründen birinin yüzü aç›ld›. Tarihi yar›mada
bundan ibaret de¤il elbet, Osmanl›’dan ve Bizans’tan
kalma daha nice eser görülebilir. Denizin usulca
karan›n içine k›vr›ld›¤› Haliç, Avrupa’y› ikiye
bölüyor. Eminönü’nün tam karfl›s›nda uzanan Galata,
Bizans dönemindeki Ceneviz kolonisi döneminde
edinmifl kimli¤ini. Kulesiyle ak›llara gelen Galata,
‹stanbul’un her anlamda y›ld›z› parlayan semtlerinden.
Kiliseleri, camileri ve Osmanl›’n›n finans merkezi
oldu¤u dönemden kalma fl›k binalar›yla övgüyü hak
eden Galata yeni kafeler, restoranlar ve sanat
galerileriyle canlan›yor. 1348 y›l›nda yap›lan ve
Hazerfan Ahmet Çelebi'nin kendi yapt›¤› kanatlarla
Üsküdar’a uçuflunun bafl kahramanlar›ndan biri olan
Galata Kulesi’nde ‹stanbul’un flahane manzaras›n›
izlemek büyük keyif. ‹stanbul’da manzaralar›n bu
kadar etkileyici olmas›n›n sebebi flehrin içinden geçen
deniz, Bo¤az. Hangi yakada yer al›rsa als›n, Bo¤az’a
k›y›s› olan her semt kendine özgü bir zarafet tafl›r.
Bebek, Kandilli, Ortaköy, Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar,
Arnavutköy, Çengelköy, Kanl›ca… Her biri ayr› bir
dünya. Bo¤az’a naz›r bir sahilde bir bardak çay içmek
ya da tekneyle Bo¤az sefas› yapmak asla b›kk›nl›k
vermez insana.
the ambition of re-creating the old Roman Empire.
Recently, the scaffolds covering the church’s most
impressive feature, its dome, have finally been removed.
Thus, the face of one of the six angel figures is now once
again visible. The angels were last seen by Sultan
Abdulmejid and architect Fossati, who had then
undertaken the renovation of the building, and were
covered in plaster and metal masks ever since. However,
those mentioned above are not the only attractions; there
are numerous other historical inheritances from the
Byzantine and Ottoman eras. The Golden Horn, where
the sea creeps unnoticed into the land, splits Europe into
two. Galata, spreading just opposite of Eminönü, has
acquired its identity through the Genoese colony
stationed there in the Byzantian era; one of Istanbul’s
most famous and beloved districts, it is connoted by its
tower. With graceful buildings remaining from when it
had been the financial capital of the Ottoman Empire,
also churches and mosques, Galata is praiseworthy both
for its traditional beauty and vibrancy, acquired through
the numerous new cafes, restaurants and art galleries in
the district. The Galata Tower, built in 1348, played
one of the leading roles in Hazerfan Ahmet Celebi’s
flight to Üsküdar with wings he had made himself. It is
pure joy to overlook the beautiful view of Istanbul from
the Galata Tower. The reason why the view of Istanbul is
so breathtaking is without a doubt because of the
Bosphorus, penetrating right through the heart of the
city. No matter if they lie on the European or the Asian
sides of the city, districts along the Bosphorus always
have a special appeal to them. Bebek, Kandilli, Ortaköy,
Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar, Arnavutköy, Çengelköy, Kanl›ca…
all of them are a different world. One can never get tired
of drinking a cup of tea by the Bosphorus or making a
tour of it by boat.
Nerede Kal›n›r? Dedeman ‹stanbul Gayrettepe 0212 337 45 00
‹fl dünyas›n›n ve e¤lence hayat›n›n merkezlerine yak›nl›¤›yla pek
çok teknolojik kolayl›¤› bir arada sunan otel 325 odal›. Bir kral dairesi,
yedi süiti ve 51 executive odas›yla her iste¤e hitap ediyor. ‹ki özel
odas› da engelliler için tasarlanm›fl. Çok say›da tam donan›ml› toplant›
odas›, Turkuaz Restoran, Roof Bar gibi fl›k restoran ve barlar› ile
‹stanbul gibi her daim canl›.
53
To Stay Dedeman ‹stanbul Gayrettepe +90 212 337 45 00
The hotel, with its close proximity to business and entertainment centers
has 325 rooms. With one presidential suite, seven regular suites, and
51 executive rooms, it caters to every guest. Two of the rooms have
been specially designed for the handicapped, a rarity in the city. It is
always alive and vibrant, like Istanbul, with numerous fully equipped
meeting rooms, beautiful restaurants and bars such as the Turkuaz
Restaurant and Roof Bar.
54
Mistik
fianl›urfa
Mystical
fianl›urfa
KAVURUCU SICA⁄I, MEDEN‹YETLERE EV SAH‹PL‹⁄‹ YAPMIfi TOPRAKLARI, M‹ST‹K
HAVASI VE ÇEfi‹T ÇEfi‹T KEBAPLARIYLA ÜN SALMIfi TAR‹H KOKAN KENT URFA…
fiANLIURFA IS FAMOUS FOR ITS BLAZINGLY HOT CLIMATE, HAVING BEEN HOME
TO MANY CIVILIZATIONS THROUGHOUT HISTORY, MYSTICAL ATMOSPHERE,
DIFFERENT KEBABS AND AN AURA OF HISTORY…
FOTO⁄RAF-PHOTOGRAPHY: AL‹YAVUZ ATA STYLING: MEHL‹KA AYDO⁄AN STYLING AS‹STAN-STYLING ASSISTANT: ECE SONER
SAÇ/MAKYAJ - HAIR/MAKE-UP: SAMET K‹L‹C‹ MODEL: NEWMODELS - KAR‹NA
ELB‹SE-DRESS
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
YELEK-VEST
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
BAfiLIK-CAP
IfiIL GÜMÜfi
(fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIfiANLIURFA BAZAAR).
55
POfi‹-HEAD SCARF
ASLI F‹L‹NTA,
ELB‹SE-DRESS
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
B‹LEZ‹K-BRACELET
IfiIL GÜMÜfi.
56
57
Güneydo¤u’nun en s›cak flehirlerinden olan fianl›urfa, M.Ö. 132’de Osroene Krall›¤› taraf›ndan kurulmufl. Pek çok arkeolojik kal›nt›lar›n
var oldu¤u flehrin 70 km kuzeyindeki Kantara köyünde çok güzel mozaik ve küçük heykellerden oluflan neolitik döneme ait yerleflim
buluntular göze çarp›yor. Ayr›ca bölge neolitik ça¤a ait dünyadaki tek yerleflim yeri olma özelli¤i tafl›yor. Köklü tarihinin izlerini bugüne
dek koruyan fianl›urfa tarih boyunca önemli bir din merkezi olmufl. H›ristiyanl›¤› resmi din olarak kullanan ilk yer olmas› d›fl›nda
Hz. ‹brahim’in burada do¤up, yaflad›¤›na inan›lmas›, kenti semavi din topluluklar›n kutsal ziyaret yeri haline getirmifl.
BALIKLI GÖL EFSANES‹
fianl›urfa efsanelerinin en ünlüsü olan Hz. ‹brahim’in atefle at›l›fl› Bal›kl› Göl’de geçiyor. Efsaneye göre Hz. ‹brahim’in dönemin zalim
hükümdar› Nemrut ve halk›n›n tapt›¤› putlarla mücadele etmesi ve Nemrut’un k›z› Zeliha’ya sevdalanmas› sonucu cezaland›r›lacakt›r.
Bal›kl› Göl’ün oldu¤u yerde büyük bir atefl yak›l›r ve Hz. ‹brahim atefle at›l›r. O an atefl göle odunlarda bal›¤a dönüflür. Hz. ‹brahim’in
ard›ndan a¤layan Zeliha’n›n göz yafllar› ise bir göl daha oluflturur. Bal›kl› Göl’ün hemen yan›nda bulunan bu göle de Ayn-› Zeliha gölü
denir. O günden sonra bu iki göl kutsal say›l›r ve her y›l yüzlerce turist bu dev bal›klardan oluflan do¤al akvaryumu görmeye gelir.
One of Southeastern Turkey’s hottest climates, fianl›urfa has been built 132 B.C., at the time of the Osroene Kingdom. 70 kilometres
south of the archeologically-rich city, is the Kantara village, with many remnants from the neolithical era, such as beautiful mosaics and
little statues. Furthermore, the region prides itself upon being the only place of residence on Earth during the neolithical era. fianl›urfa,
which carried the remnants of its history to this day, has been an important religious center. Apart from being the first city where
Christianity was the official religion, the belief that Abraham was born and lived in fianl›urfa has made the city into a pilgrimage
destionation for the believers of the divine religions.
THE LEGEND OF LAKE BALIKLI
The most prominent among the legends in fianl›urfa, Hz ‹brahim’s execution by burning, takes place in Lake Bal›kl› (Fish Lake).
According to the legend, Propher Abraham was to be executed for fighting aginst the evil ruler Nemrut of that time and against the
fetishes the crowd worshipped, and because of falling in love with Zeliha, ruler Nemrut’s daughter. A big fire was burnt in the place
which is today Lake Bal›kl›, and Abraham was cast into the fire. At that instant, the fire turns into a lake and the wood which kept the fire
burning to fishes. The tears Zliha shed for Abraham turn into a second lake. The second lake, right next to Lake Bal›kl›, is called the
Ayn-› Zelih lake. After that day, these two lakes are believed to be holy and hundreds of tourists go every year to visit this natural
aquarium, replete with gigantic fishes.
58
HARRAN
fianl›urfa’n›n en ilgi çekici yerlerinden biri olan
Harran tarihte önemli ticaret yollar›n›n kesiflti¤i
bir noktada yer almas› sonucunda çok de¤erli
tarihi eserlere sahip olmufl. Abbasi hükümdar›
Harun Reflid’in yapt›rd›¤› dünyaca ünlü Harran
Üniversitesi buradaym›fl. Fakat Farabi’nin de
e¤itim gördü¤ü üniversiteden geriye bugün
sadece astronomi kulesi kalm›fl. Harran’›n
simgesi haline gelen külah biçimindeki toprak
evler turistlerin en çok ilgisini çeken yap›lar
aras›nda yer al›yor.
HARRAN
One of fianl›urfa’s most interesting destinations,
Harran has a historical importance of being at
the crossroads of many trade routes and carries
many valuable historical remnants from those
days. The globally famous Harran University,
built by the Abbasi ruler Harun Reflid, was also
built there. Unfortunately, from the famous
university, where even Farabi studied, remains
only the tower of astronomy. The cone-shaped
houses made of earth are among the sites
which attract a vast number of tourists.
ELB‹SE-DRESS
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
YELEK-VEST
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
BAfiLIK-CAP
IfiIL GÜMÜfi
(fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIfiANLIURFA BAZAAR).
59
ELB‹SE-DRESS
GAMZE SARAÇO⁄LU,
YELEK-VEST
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL.
60
YAPMADAN
DÖNMEY‹N!
DON’T
MISS OUT!
fianl›urfa’y› fianl›urfa yapan en önemli fleylerden biri flüphesiz ‘S›ra Gecesi’ kültürü.
S›ra gecesinde herkes yerde oturuyor ve yemekler yöresel türküler eflli¤inde yer
sofras›nda yeniyor. Urfal›lar için misafir a¤›rlamak ve onlara çeflitli ikramlarda bulunmak
büyük önem tafl›yor. fianl›urfa’ya gitmiflken dillere destan patl›can kebab›n› tatmadan, çi¤
köfteyi do¤du¤u topraklarda yemeden dönmek olmaz.
One of the most important traditions which makes fianl›urfa unique is the “s›ra evening”
tradition. In a s›ra evening, everybody sits on the floor and eats their food on a floor
table, accompanied by regional songs. For the inhabitants of fianl›urfa, it is very
important to be hospitable and offer many delicious food items to the guests.
It is impossible to come back from fianl›urfa without tasting the legendary eggplant
kebab, or eating raw meatballs in its place of origin.
DEDEMAN fiANLIURFA
KOLYE -NECKLACE STYLIST’‹N - STYLIST’S NECKLACE,
YELEK ve BLUZ -VEST and SHIRT GAMZE SARAÇO⁄LU,
ETEK -SKIRT S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
AYAKKABI -SHOES ADEM&HAVVA.
TÜRKMEN BAfiLI⁄I-TURKOMAN CAP
SYTLIST’‹N-STYLIST’S CAP.
61
62
BLUZ-SHIRT
S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
fiALVAR-SHALWAR
fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIBEDESTEN,
KEMER-BELT
IfiIL GÜMÜfi,
Ç‹ZME-BOOT
ADEM&HAVVA.
ELB‹SE-DRESS
ÖZGÜR MANSUR,
EfiARP-SCARF
fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIBEDESTEN,
B‹LEZ‹K-BRACELET
STYL‹ST’‹N,
Ç‹ZME-BOOT
ADEM&HAVVA.
63
64
ELB‹SE-DRESS
ÖZGÜR MANSUR,
EfiARP-SCARF
fiANLIURFA ÇARfiIBEDESTEN.
DEDEMAN fiANLIURFA
NEREDE KALINIR?
fiehrin merkezinde konforlu odalar›, lezzet zengini yöresel
yemeklerin sunuldu¤u restoranlar›, kapal› yüzme havuzu,
güzellik salonu, sauna, buhar odas›, masaj gibi hizmetleri
ile misafirlerini en iyi flekilde a¤›rlamay› amaç edinen
Dedeman fianl›urfa yüksek teknoloji ve modern mimarisi
ile konuklar›na ev sahipli¤i yap›yor.
Adres: Atatürk Mah. Hastane Cad.
fianl›urfa, Türkiye Tel: +90 414 316 8989
65
NASIL G‹D‹L‹R?
fianl›urfa-‹stanbul aras› 1275 km. ‹stanbul’dan fianl›urfa’ya
Ankara üzerinden karayoluyla gidebilirsiniz. Ama karayolu
gözünüzde büyürse THY’n›n ‹stanbul-fianl›urfa seferleri ile
2 buçuk saatte fianl›urfa’ya varmak mümkün.
THY: +90 212 444 0 849
TO STAY
At the center of the city, with its modern architecture and
technological services, restaurants offering all kinds of
delicious regional foods, closed swimming pools,
beauty salons, sauna, steam room and massage
services, Dedeman fianl›urfa considers rendering the
best service possible to its customers its mission.
Atatürk Mah. Hastane Cad. fianl›urfa, Türkiye
Tel: +90 414 316 8989
TO REACH
The distance between fianl›urfa and ‹stanbul is 1275 km.
You can travel to fianl›urfa through land over Ankara. However,
if the prospect of a long travel intimidates you, it is possible to
reach fianl›urfa in 2,5 hours with THY’s ‹stanbul-fianl›urfa flights.
THY: +90 212 444 0 849
KOLYE -NECKLACE STYLIST’‹N - STYLIST’S NECKLACE,
YELEK ve BLUZ -VEST and SHIRT GAMZE SARAÇO⁄LU,
ETEK -SKIRT S‹MAY BÜLBÜL,
AYAKKABI -SHOES ADEM&HAVVA.
Dedeman fianl›urfa'ya ve bize flehri sevdiren otel floförü Tahir'e teflekkürler...
Special thanks to Dedeman fianl›urfa and the hotel driver Tahir.
DQ
66
TREND TREND
Sanal
Sey hat
Virtual
Traveling
Yeni nesil gezginler yolculu¤a ilk ad›mlar›n› internette at›yorlar. Çünkü internet, son dakikada
ayarlanan bir uçak biletinden kap›s›nda kuyruklar oluflan bir restoranda sizi bekleyen masan›za,
say›s›z ayr›cal›¤› sakl›yor. Önemli olan do¤ru yerde ve zamanda do¤ru siteyi t›klamak.
When the younger generation of travelers wants to plan a vacation, the first place they
turn to is the Internet. Because the Internet allows you to book a plane ticket at
a major discount, or book a table at a trendy venue when everyone else is waiting
in line at the door. There are endless possibilities- as long as you know where to look.
G‹DERKEN
GETTING THERE
Sidestep.com
200 site üzerinden 600
havayolu flirketinin fiyatlar›n›
araflt›ran sitenin art›lar› uçufl
saatine ve gidilecek yerin
yak›n›ndaki tüm havalimanlar›na
göre arama yap›labilmesi.
Sidestep.com
This website compares prices
from 600 different airlines and
200 different websites. The fact
that you can search based on
flight time and closest airports (to
your final destination) are major
pluses.
OTEL ARAYIfiI
HOTEL SEARCH
Flychepo.com
Avrupa’daki düflük ücretli hava
tafl›mac›l›¤› yapan 46 flirketin
uçufllar›n› ö¤renmek için mükemmel bir kaynak. Sadece kalk›fl ve
var›fl yerini seçmek yeterli.
Seatguru.com
Oturaca¤›n›z koltu¤un bacak
aral›¤› uzun mu, tuvalete yak›n
m›? 80’den fazla havayolu
flirketinden 550’den fazla uçak
plan› sayesinde en iyi koltu¤u
kapmak elinizde.
Farecast.com
Geçmifle yönelik fiyat verilerini
derleyip analiz ederek uçak
bileti almak için en uygun
zaman› belirliyor.
Wegolo.com
700’ü aflk›n destinasyon için
düflük ücretli hava tafl›mac›l›¤›
yapan flirketleri araflt›rabilirsiniz.
Flychepo.com
This is the best website for comparing prices of the 46 airlines
that offer discount flights within
Europe. Choose your place of
departure and arrival and
flychepo.com will handle the rest.
Seatguru.com
How much legroom does your
plane provide? Is the bathroom
close to your seat? This website
provides info on seats from over
550 planes and 80 airlines,
ensuring that your flight will be
as comfortable as possible.
Farecast.com
This website compiles info from
past flights, analyzes the prices
along with the time frame, and
provides the best time for you
to buy a ticket for the future.
Wegolo.com
Ekobilet.com
Sitedeki promosyonlar› takip
ederek çok ucuz uçak biletleri
yakalayabilirsiniz. ‹ste¤e göre
düflük ücretli havayolu
flirketlerinin de uçufllar› da
listeleniyor.
Yapta.com
E¤er uçufl rezervasyonunuzu
havayolu flirketinin internet
sayfas›ndan yapt›ysan›z Yapta
fiyat›n düflmesi durumunda
sizi uyar›yor.
Insidetrip.com
Sitede titiz yolcular için havayolu
flirketlerinin kaç valiz
kaybetti¤inden uçaklar›n yafl›na
dek k›l› k›rk yaran istatistikler var.
Check out the best prices from
discount airlines for over 700
destinations.
Ekobilet.com
This website provides many
promotions for cheap flights.
You can also check out
discounted flights from specific
airlines of choice.
Yapta.com
Yapta informs you of a price drop
on online flight reservations.
Insidetrip.com
This website is perfect for those
afraid of flying! Statistics are
provided such as how many
luggage the airline has lost and
how old the planes are, to put
your mind at rest.
Kayak.com
Dünya çap›nda otellerin
yerald›¤› sitede önerilerin %10’u
gerçek kiflilerden geliyor.
Foto¤raflarla ve haritalarla
desteklenen tan›t›mlarla hayal
k›r›kl›¤›na u¤rama ihtimali
düflük.
Lastminutetravel.com
Son dakika seyahatlerinde
gidece¤iniz flehrin lüks
otellerindeki indirimli oda
fiyatlar›n› listeleyen bir site.
Tripadvisor.com
Oteller ve restoranlara iliflkin
gerçek yorumlarla ve
foto¤raflarla an be an
geniflleyen site alan›nda
kesinlikle lider.
Tvtrip.com
Kalmay› planlad›¤›n›z oteli her
yönden ele alan ve rakipleriyle
k›yaslayan bir site. Videolar
sayesinde otellerin içine girmifl
kadar oluyorsunuz.
Tripkick.com
‹lla ki süitte kalman›z gerekmez.
Sitedeki gürültü seviyesi,
manzara, lokasyon, banyo
büyüklü¤ü gibi ipuçlar›yla otelin
en iyi odas›n› bulabilirsiniz.
I-escape.com
Bali’deki bir bungalovdan
Bordeaux’daki bir flatoya,
butik kaçamaklar için harika
öneriler var.
Kayak.com
This website provides reviews
of hotels from past guests, as
well as photos and maps,
decreasing the chances of
being disappointed upon
arrival.
Lastminutetravel.com
This website provides info on
discounted room prices at luxurious hotels for last-minute
trips.
Tripadvisor.com
This site provides info on hotels
and restaurants, with real
customer reviews and
photographs. This constantly
updated website is the best
out there.
Tvtrip.com
This site compares your hotel,
down to the smallest details,
with its competition. Videos
allow you to feel as if you’re
inside the hotel before you’ve
even boarded your flight.
Tripkick.com
The best room at the hotel
might not necessarily be the
suite, especially if you consider
view, location, bathroom size
and the ever important, street
noise factor! This website helps
you find the best room at your
hotel, according to a number of
overlooked details.
I-escape.com
From a bungalow in Bali to
a chateaux in Bordeaux, this
website provides great
locations for boutique
getaways.
67
68
BAVUL
HAZIRLARKEN
G‹DECE⁄‹N‹Z
YERDEK‹
KAPSAMLI
HAVA
DURUMUNA
BAKMANIZDA
FAYDA VAR
SEYAHAT PLANI
TRAVEL ITINERARY
Homeandabroad.com
Homeandabroad.com
Seyahatinizi gidece¤iniz
destinasyona göre bafltan sona
tasarlayan bir site. Bunu
yaparken uzman görüfllerinden
faydalan›yor.
This website plans your entire
trip from start to finish, making
use of expert advice
throughout.
Cruisecritic.com
This website provides
information on over 60 cruise
line operators, including
information on everything from
travel insurance to amenities
such as pools, and discounted
tours to boot.
Cruisecritic.com
60’dan fazla cruise operatörüne
dair -seyahat sigortas›ndan
havuzlara- her detay›n
araflt›r›ld›¤› sitede indirimli turlar
da bulmak mümkün.
Triporama.com
Grup halinde ç›k›lacak tatillerde
internet üzerinden fikir
al›flveriflinde bulunarak herkese
eflit söz hakk› verilebilir.
Tripbase.com
MAKE SURE
TO CHECK
OUT THE
WEATHER
OF THE
PLACE YOU
WILL BE
TRAVELING TO
Tripbase beklentilerinize uygun
tatil destinasyonlar› bulabilmeniz
için öneriler ve söz konusu
destinasyonlara ait faydal›
bilgiler sunuyor.
Zicasso.com
Bütçenizi, nereye ve ne zaman
seyahat etmek istedi¤inizi ve
daha fazlas›n› içeren bir formu
doldurduktan sonra
Zicasso, seyahatinizi ayr›nt›l›
olarak planl›yor.
Triporama.com
It can be impossible to plan a
trip with a big group, what with
varying tastes and schedules.
This site allows you to create a
group homepage, send invites
etc. to make it as simple as
possible.
Tripbase.com
Tripbase helps you choose the
travel destination you’ll enjoy the
most, based on your interests
(categories includes nightlife,
nature, dining, attractions,
shopping). You can modify the
selections by price as well.
Zicasso.com
Zicasso chooses the trip most
appropriate for you based on
your budget, where and when
you’d like to travel and more.
FAYDALI B‹LG‹LER
USEFUL INFORMATION
Xe.com
70
Xe.com
Dakikada bir güncellenen
verilerle, kolay kullan›ml› bir
para kuru dönüfltürücüsü.
85 ülke kurunu birbirine
çevirebilirsiniz.
This site provides money
exchange rates, updated every
minute, and includes over
85 countries.
Weather.com
Make sure to check out the
weather of the place you will
be traveling to.
Weather.com
YOL RAPORU
ROAD REPORT
Hopstop.com
Amerika’daki sekiz flehrin
yan›nda Paris ve Londra’n›n
flehir içi ulafl›m ipuçlar› çok
kullan›fll› olabilir. ‹ster yürüyün
ister metroya binin, site sizi
gidece¤iniz yere ad›m ad›m
yönlendiriyor.
Viamichelin.com
Avrupa’n›n otoyollar›nda
gidece¤iniz her kilometreyi,
alternatif yollar›, ne kadar yak›t
harcayaca¤›n›z› ve hatta
nerelerde radar oldu¤unu
detayland›ran faydal› bir site.
Hopstop.com
This site provides information
on traveling within a city. Cities
listed include 8 American cities
as well as Paris and London.
Whether you enjoy walking or
taking the metro, this site
provides details and info so
you don’t get lost.
Viamichelin.com
This site provides info on
Europe’s highways. From
distances, to alternative routes,
to how much fuel you’ll be
using to the location of radars,
this site ensures you get to
your destination as smoothly
as possible.
Bavul haz›rlarken gidece¤iniz
yerdeki kapsaml› hava
durumuna bakman›zda
fayda var.
Tripprep.com
Seyahat sa¤l›¤›na dair hayat
kurtar›c› bilgiler içeren sitede
yurtd›fl›ndaki doktorlara ve
sa¤l›k kurulufllar›na iliflkin
listeler yer al›yor.
Aboutairportparking.com
100’den fazla havaliman›nda
4000’den fazla otopark›n
terminale uzakl›¤›n› ve park
ücretlerini ö¤renmek için orada
olman›za gerek yok.
Rezervasyon da yap›labiliyor.
Tripprep.com
This site is provides life-saving
info on doctors and health
centers abroad.
Aboutairportparking.com
This site provides information
on over 100 airports and 4000
parking garages. Distance from
terminals, prices and more are
provided. Reservations can
also be made.
YEMEK ZAMANI
DINING OPTIONS
Opentable.com
Dünya üzerinde 9000’e yak›n
restorandan tek t›kla masan›z›
ay›rtma ayr›cal›¤› bu sitede.
Seriouseats.com
Bir milyona yak›n yemek
afl›¤›n›n restoranlar›n menüleri,
en bilindik fleflerden tarifler ve
yerel pazarlar üzerine fikir
al›flveriflinde bulundu¤u site
yemek iflini ciddiye al›yor.
Opentable.com
This site allows you to make
reservations at over 9000
restaurants around the world
with the single click of the
mouse.
Seriouseats.com
This site is a foodie’s paradise.
Providing over 1 million
restaurants’ menus, recipes
from famous chefs and
discussions on topics such
as the best non-dairy milk,
seriouseats is serious
about food!
NEWS
DQ HABERLER NEWS
71
DEDEMAN’DAN
HED‹YE
A SPECIAL
OFFER FROM
DEDEMAN
Türkiye’nin en köklü ve büyük, dünyan›n 185’inci oteller zinciri Dedeman Hotels & Resorts
International, 1 A¤ustos 2009-1 Ekim 2009 tarihleri aras›nda Dedeman Otelleri’nde gerçeklefltirilecek
en az 2 gecelik konaklamalarda 1 gece ücretsiz konaklama imkan› sunuyor. ‹ki kiflilik odalarda
“günün en iyi fiyat›” ile en az iki gece gerçekleflen konaklamalarda, bu kampanya ile herhangi bir
Dedeman Oteli’nde oda + kahvalt› iki kiflilik bir gece konaklama imkan›n› konuklar›n› bekliyor.
Belirlenen tarihler aras›nda gerçeklefltirilecek konaklamalarda kazan›lacak ücretsiz konaklama haklar›
2009 senesinin sonuna kadar Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International bünyesinde yer alan 7’si yurt
d›fl›, 15’i yurt için toplam 22 otelde geçerli olacak.
Detayl› bilgi ve rezervasyon için (0212) 444 43 36.
Turkey’s largest, and the world’s 185th largest, hotel chain Dedeman Hotels & Resorts
International, has a special offer from August 1- October 1 2009. Customers who
stay at any Dedeman Hotel for at least two nights between these dates, are granted a
night of free stay in any of the Dedeman Hotels. The offer does not expire until the
end of 2009, including bed and breakfast for two people. This offer is applicable to
any of the 15 domestic, or 7 international Dedeman Hotels.
For details and reservations, call (0212)444 43 36.
NEWS
DQ HABERLER NEWS
72
DEDEMAN
DÜNYANIN EN
BÜYÜK 300
OTEL Z‹NC‹R‹
ARASINDA
DEDEMAN; IN
THE “TOP 300
LARGEST
HOTEL
COMPANIES
WORLDWIDE”
LISTING
Türkiye’nin en köklü otel zinciri Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International,
uluslararas› Hotels Dergisi’nin her y›l haz›rlad›¤› “Dünya’n›n En Büyük Oteller
Zincirleri” s›ralamas›nda 15’i yurt içi ve 7’si yurt d›fl›nda yer alan toplam
22 oteli ve 4793 oda say›s› ile bir y›lda 53 s›ra yükselerek 185’incili¤e yerleflti.
Geçti¤imiz sene Türkiye’den listeye giren tek otel zincir olan, Dedeman Hotels
& Resorts International, 2008 y›l›nda dünyan›n en büyük otel zincirleri
s›ralamas›nda 185. s›raya yükselerek büyük bir baflar› elde etti. Ülkemizde
15, yurt d›fl›nda 7, toplam 22 otelinde “Geleneksel Dedeman
Misafirperverli¤i’ni” ile konuklar›n› a¤›rlayan Dedeman Hotels & Resort
International, 50. y›l›n› kutlayaca¤› 2016 y›l›nda 50. otelini açmay› hedefliyor.
Turkey’s long-established hotel chain
Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International, has
jumped 53 levels this year, 185th place, in the
Hotels Magazine’s annual “Top 300 Largest Hotel
Companies Worldwide” ranking with its 15 local and 7
abroad, totally 22 hotels and 4793 rooms. Dedeman Hotels &
Resorts International, which was the only Turkish Hotel chain in the
listing, last year, has gained a tremendous honour by being rated
as the 185th biggest chain in the world in 2008. Dedeman Hotels &
Resorts International serves guests with “Traditional Dedeman
Hospitality” in 15 local and 7 abroad hotels and is aiming to reach
its goal by the end of 2016; 50 hotels in the 50th year.
73
MO⁄OL
RALL‹S‹
MONGOLIAN
RALLY
Dünyan›n pek çok yerinde yard›m kampanyalar› yap›l›yor ancak burada bahsedece¤imiz
organizasyon gerçekten bir ilk! Dave Andrews, Nick Hawkins, Advait Patil, Matt Davis ve
George Crowther isimli 5 arkadafl bir ambulansla Londra’dan Mo¤olistan’a gidiyor...
Amaçlar› Ulan Bayor’a ulaflt›klar›nda ambulans› oradaki bir hastaneye ba¤›fllamak.
Bu uzun yolculuk esnas›nda toplad›klar› yard›mlar› da çeflitli hay›r kurumlar›na
ba¤›fllamak istiyorlar. Yolculuk esnas›nda yollar› ‹stanbul ve Rize’ye de düflen gençler,
geçti¤imiz aylarda Dedeman Otelleri’nde konaklad›. Bu yard›m kampanyas›na konaklama
yard›m› ile kat›lan Dedeman yönetimi böyle bir giriflimi desteklemekten son derece
memnun ve gururlu. Detayl› bilgi için; www.thedouglascar.com
There have been charity donations and campaigns everywhere on Earth
but this time this one is truly the first of its kind. Dave Andrews, Nick
Hawkins, Advait Patil, Matt Davis and George Crowther are traveling from
London to Mongolia in an ambulance! After they reach their destination,
Ulan Bayor, they are to donate the ambulance to a hospital there and the
charity funds they received throughout their journey, to different charity
organizations. The young men also passed through ‹stanbul and Rize on
their way and stayed at Dedeman Hotels. Dedeman Hotels, contribute
to this project by providing accommodations, and is honored to be
supporting such a project. For more details; www.thedouglascar.com
DQ HABERLERNEWS
74
HIZ ve ADENAL‹N
SPEED AND ADRENALINE
Dünyan›n en zorlu sporlar›ndan biri olan uçurum atlay›fl›/yüksekten atlama, Red Bull Cliff
Diving Series ile sporcular›n minimum 26 metre yüksekli¤indeki noktalardan suya atlayarak
2,5 saniyede 90 km. gibi müthifl bir h›za ulaflt›¤›, kontrol, akrobasi ve tehlike s›n›rlar›n›n
zorland›¤› nefes kesici bir spor müsabakas›na dönüfltü. Türkiye’nin en yayg›n oteller zinciri
olan Dedeman Hotels & Resorts International ise 8 A¤ustos 2009 Cumartesi günü Antalya
Atatürk Park›’›nda gerçekleflen Red Bull Cliff Diving Series’e destek verdi. Bu zorlu sporu
yapan atletler, yerli va yabanc› bas›n mensuplar› ile organizasyon ekibi Dedeman Antalya
Hotel & Convention Center’da konaklad›. Eflsiz manzaras›, güleryüzlü çal›flanlar› ve leziz
yemekleriyle Cliff Diving ekibini a¤›rlayan Dedeman Antalya, falezlerin üstüne kurulan
platform ile sporcular›n müsabakadan önce de antrenman yapmalar›n› sa¤lad›.
12 sporcunun yar›flt›¤› Red Bull Cliff Diving 2009 Antalya’da Rus atlet Artem Silchenko
biricili¤i al›rken, Kolombiya’l› Orlando Duque ikinci, ‹ngiliz atlet Gary Hunt ise üçüncü oldu.
One of the world's most extreme sports, cliff diving has become a sports
competition with the Red Bull Diving Series, where the competitors jump from
at least 26 meters into water, reaching an astonishing speed of 90 meters
in 2.5 seconds. Turkey's most prominents hotel and resort chain, Dedeman Hotels
& Resorts International, has contributed to Red Bull Cliff Diving Series, which took
place August 8, 2009. The athletes lodged in the Dedeman Antalya Hotel &
Convention Center, alongside local and foreign press members and members of
the organizational team.Dedeman Antalya also made it possible for the athletes to
train before the competition with the platform built upon the sea cliff. In the Red
Bull Cliff Diving 2009 Antalya, Russian athlete Artem Silchenko recieved first
place, Colombian Orlando Duque second, and English Gary Hunt third.
DEDEMAN ‹STANBUL’DA GÖRKEML‹ N‹KAH SEREMON‹S‹
A GLAMOROUS WEDDING CEREMONY FROM THE DEDEMAN ‹STANBUL
75
‹stanbul’un en gözde ve köklü otelleri aras›nda yer alan Dedeman ‹stanbul, dü¤ün
haz›rl›klar›na bafllayan çiftlere özel yeni bir uygulamaya imza at›yor. Nikah salonu
yerine, evlili¤e ilk ad›m›n› befl y›ld›zl› otel konforunda ve özenli hizmet anlay›fl›yla
atmak isteyen çiftler için özel “Nikah Seremonisi” paketi sunuyor. Nikah masas›,
gelin yolu süslemesi, fl›k sandalyeler ile dekore edilmifl ihtiflaml› balo salonunda
gerçekleflecek nikah töreni sonras›nda konuklara profesyonel DJ eflli¤indeki
müzikle beraber otelin hediyesi olarak sunulan dü¤ün pastas›, çay, kahve ve meyve
suyu ikram› yap›l›yor. Özel “Nikah Seremonisi”, bu en mutlu gününde
farkl›l›k yaratmak isteyen çiftleri bekliyor.
Among Istanbul’s favorite, best-established hotels, the Dedeman
‹stanbul has a special offer for couples preparing for a wedding.
For couples who would prefer to have their ceremony in the comfort of a
five star hotel instead of a wedding hall, Dedeman Hotels is granting the
special “Wedding Package.” After the wedding ceremony, which would
take place in a beautiful ballroom decorated with glamorous tables and
decorations, a breathtaking aisle for the bride to walk down, the
guests are offered wedding cake, tea and coffee from the Dedeman
kitchen while live DJ music plays in the background.
This special “wedding ceremony” awaits those who would want to
experience their most special day in a different,
elegant and pleasant surrounding.
DQ HABERLERNEWS
UNUTULMAYA YÜZ
TUTMUfi LEZZETLER
DISHES FORGOTTEN
FROM DAYS PAST
09/09/2009 tarihinde Dedeman ‹stanbul’da Dedeman Holding ‹cra kurulu
Baflkan› Murat Ero¤lu ve Dedeman Turizm Yönetimi Genel Müdürü Tamer
Yürüko¤lu’nun ev sahipli¤inde iftar yeme¤i düzenlendi. Ahmet Örs,
Ali Esad Göksel, Nevin Hal›c›, Emel Erden gibi Türk gastronomi
dünyas›n›n çok önemli isimlerinin kat›ld›¤› davette “Unutulmaya Yüz
Tutmufl Lezzetler” orijinal halleriyle misafirlere sunuldu. Geceye ayr›ca
y›llar önce aram›zdan ayr›lan Türkiye’nin en önemli gurmelerinden merhum
Tu¤rul fiavkay’›n efli Esen fiavkay da kat›ld›. Dedeman Ankara, Dedeman
Antalya, Dedeman Bodrum, Dedeman Cappadocia, Dedeman Gaziantep,
Dedeman Konya ve Dedeman ‹stanbul’un “Executive fief”leri, sadece bu
akflama özel olarak geleneksel ama neredeyse unutulmufl iftar yemekleriyle
benzersiz bir lezzet yolculu¤u yapt›rd›lar. Kedi batmaz, mevlevi böre¤i,
k›z›lc›k tarhanas›, sakala çarpan çorbas›, hoflmerim, fliveydiz gibi yöresel
tatlar›n yan›s›ra 400 y›ll›k geçmifle sahip Osmanl› Saray mutfa¤›n›n da en
güzel örnekleri olan çeflidiy-e, muammiy-e, balkaba¤› dolmas› mönüde
yerald›lar. De¤iflik ekmek çeflitlerinin sunuldu¤u gecede ayr›ca hatmi
çiçe¤i, balkaba¤›, demirhindi, gülbeyaz, dut flerbetleri, limonata ve
tarç›n ve karanfille harmanlanm›fl demleme çay ikram› yap›ld›.
Gecenin sonunda ise konuklara Ahmet Örs, Artun Ünsal, Nevin Hal›c›,
Mehmet Yaflin ve Tu¤rul fiavkay’›n kitaplar› ve difl kiras› olarak
kuruyemifl keseleri hediye edildi.
On 09/09/2009 Dedeman
Holding Executive Committee
Head Mr. Murat Ero¤lu and
Dedeman Tourism
Management Inc. General
Manager Mr. Tamer
Yürüko¤lu organized an iftar
(breaking of the fast) dinner
at Dedeman Istanbul. Many
important names from the
world of Turkish gastronomy
including Ahmet Örs, Ali Esad
Göksel, Nevin Hal›c› and
Emel Erden participated in the
dinner ‘Dishes forgotten from
days past’, where the foods
were presented in their
original versions.
Additionally, Esen fiavkay,
the wife of one of Turkey’s
most important gourmet
chefs, Tu¤rul fiavkay, who left
us many years ago, also
joined the dinner. The
Executive Chefs of Dedeman
Ankara, Dedeman Antalya,
Dedeman Bodrum, Dedeman
Cappadocia, Dedeman
Gaziantep, Dedeman Konya
and Dedeman Istanbul
prepared traditional, but
mostly forgotten, iftar dishes
for an unforgettable
gastronomic journey. Some of
the regional dishes served
included kedi batmaz,
mevlevi böre¤i, k›z›lc›k
tarhanas›, sakala çarpan
çorbas›, hoflmerim and
fliveydiz and 400-year-old
recipes from the Ottoman
Palace kitchen including
çeflidiye, muamiye and
balkaba¤› dolmas›. In
addition to the many different
bread varieties served, hatmi
çiçe¤i, balkaba¤›, demirhindi,
gülbeyaz, dut flerbetleri,
lemonade and brewed tea that
was a mix of cinnamon and
cloves were also served. At
the end of the night, guests
were given complimentary
copies of Ahmet Örs, Artun
Ünsal, Nevin Hal›c›, Mehmet
Yaflin ve Tu¤rul fiavkay’s
books in addition to little bags
of dried fruit and nuts.
77
B‹REYSEL S‹LAHSIZLANMAYA ÇA⁄RI
Umut Vakf›; bireysel silahlanma fliddetini yaflam›fl herkesi ve bireysel silahlanmaya karfl›
olanlar› bireysel silahlanmay› protestoya ça¤›r›yor. 28 Eylül Bireysel Silahs›zlanma
Günü’nde, saat 12:00’de bafllayacak olan Sessiz Ayakkab›lar›n Yürüyüflü’nde, ateflli silahlarla
hayat›n› kaybedenler ad›na k›rm›z› hal› üzerine b›rak›lacak ayakkab›lar “bireysel silahlanmaya
karfl›” yürüyecekler. Taksim Meydan›’nda yap›lacak olan Sessiz Ayakkab›lar›n Yürüyüflü,
Umut Vakf› Kurucu Baflkan› Nazire Dedeman’›n konuflmas›yla aç›lacak. “Silah Yasa Tasar›s›”
hakk›nda Umut Vakf› ‹nceleme Komisyonu Toplant›s› Sonuç Bildirgesi Deklarasyonu’nun ve
Beyo¤lu Belediyesi Baflkan› Ahmet Misbah Demircan’›n konuflmas›n›n ard›ndan pandomim
performans› eflli¤inde k›rm›z› hal› üzerine ayakkab›lar b›rak›lacak. Böylece “sessiz
ayakkab›lar” k›rm›z› hal›da yürüyerek, bireysel silahlanmay› protesto edecekler.
CALL TO INDIVIDUAL DISARMAMENT
Umut Vakf› is inviting everyone to join in on the protest against individual
disarmament in Istanbul. On Individual Disarmament Day, September 28,
the The March of Silent Shoes protest will commence at 12:00 am. During the
demonstration, on behalf of the people who have died due to firearm usage, shoes
will be placed on a red carpet to symbolize the footsteps of those passed.
The March of Silent Shoes will take place in Taksim Square, and will begin with a
speech from the founder of Umut Vakf›, Nazire Dedeman. After the speech, the
mayor of Beyo¤lu, Ahmet Misbah Demircan, will also speak in regards to the issue
at hand. Come see and participate in a good cause, The March of Silent Shoes
and have your own footprint be a part of history.
DQ
78 Ö Y K Ü - S T O R Y
çorap
socks
YAZI-WORDS: YA⁄MUR T. ERDEM
O çorab› onun kafas›na ben ördüm. Popifline yedi¤i flaplak
benim yüzümdendir. Ama deli ediyor adam› ara s›ra.
Böyle güzel kokmasa zaten basar›m difllerimi bo¤az›na,
g›k› ç›kmadan cumburlop öteki dünyay› boylar.
Ama çorab› bu yüzden örmedim. fiimdi, nas›l desem...
Evet büyüdüm art›k, olgun say›l›r›m. Ve annem ikimizi
de çok seviyor (san›r›m). Onu öpünce beni, beni öpünce
onu öpüyor. Ama onunla daha çok oynuyor. Gerçi ben
oynamay› sevmiyorum art›k, büyü¤üm ben, ama yine de
sinir oluyorum elimde de¤il. Bir bak›yorum bunlar
sarmafl dolafl... Bir de yok mu benim küçük kokotun
annemi hafif hafif ›s›rmas›... Mest oluyor annem.
Dakikalarca ›s›r›fl›yorlar. E insaf! Terlik çal›yorum, çorap
çal›yorum, annem ancak o zaman b›rak›yor onu. Darac›k
salonda koflturup duruyoruz; güya ben h›rs›z o polis. Ama
ne çald›ysam zarar vermeyece¤imi bildi¤inden, acele
etmiyor a¤z›mdakini almakta. Ben önde o arkada
kofluyoruz. Esmer cad›s› tek durur mu? Cilveler,
havlamalar, annemin önüne top b›rakmalar... E tatl› da...
Annem bu sefer ikimize birden yetiflmeye çal›fl›yor.
Onun ifli de kolay de¤il.
Bir akflam iflten döndü¤ünde kocaman bir kutuyla geldi
annem. Delirdik tabii ikimiz birden. Bir: Annemiz geldi.
‹ki: Kocaman bir kutu, ne de güzel parçalan›r flimdi.
Kutuyu ikiye bölüp alt›n› benim önüme, üstünü Esmer’e
att›; adildir. Esmer pisi tabii hemen ikisine birden
konmaya çal›flt›. Onun kendi üstüyle yetinmeyip el koymaya çal›flt›¤› alt› k›zarak ondan ald›, yine benim önüme
koydu annem, Esmer’e de parma¤›n› sallay›p “hmmm”
sesi ç›kararak uyard›. Beni korur. Sonra dufla girdi ama
banyoya gitmeden önce kutudan ç›kan ayakkab›lar›
ayakkab›l›¤a koydu. Ayakkab›l›k bizim yetiflebilece¤imiz
boydad›r ama oraya dokunmay›z; k›zar annemiz. Onu
k›zd›rmak istemeyiz, bizi hep sevsin isteriz.
Annemiz dufla girince benim hakk›m olan kutu parças›n›
sanki istemeden Esmer’e kapt›rm›fl›m gibi yap›p yavaflça
(ses ç›karmadan harika yürürüm) ayakkab›l›¤a yöneldim.
En seri hareketlerimle kutudan ç›km›fl yeni ayakkab›y›
a¤z›ma al›p koca koca ›s›rd›m. Neyse ki Esmer gelinceye
kadar epey bir zarar vermeyi baflard›m. Cad› k›z
gelince tabii ki do¤ruca a¤z›mdan ald› ayakkab›y›.
Ben 32 kiloyum o 22. Benim difllerim çok daha kocaman
ama o da çok cad›. Ayr›ca ben h›rt›flmakla sürtüflmekle
filan u¤raflamam; nas›l denir, keyfime düflkünüm biraz.
Annem arada bana tembel der. Öyle olsun.
Bizim saf Esmer’i görün; ayakkab›y› a¤z›mdan al›nca
bayram etti. Bir posta da o parçalad›. Bense sanki yemek
bekliyormuflum gibi gittim mutfa¤›n köflesine yatt›m.
Annem dufltan ç›kt›. Ç›kt› ç›kmas›na ama, yepyeni
ayakkab›s›n› Esmer’i a¤z›nda görünce k›yameti kopard›!
I weaved this web around her. It is because of me that she
got a spanking on her cute butt. But she does drive you crazy
once in a while. If she didn’t smell so sweet, I would just
press my teeth to her throat, and she would leave this world
without a sound.
But this is not why I weaved the web. Now, how should I
say…Yes, I am all grown up now, can be considered mature
even. And Mom loves us both so much (I think). She kisses me
when she kisses her, she kisses her when she kisses me. She
plays with her more though. I mean, I don’t like to play
anymore, I am grown up, but it’s still annoying. I look over,
and they’re all entwined together. And the little bites she
gives my mother…delight her. They bite each other for
hours. I steal slippers, I steal socks, and only then does my
mom let go of her. We keep running around in the small
living room, as if I am the robber and she’s the cop. But since
she knows that I don’t mean any harm whenever I steal, she
doesn’t hurry to catch me. We just keep running, me in front,
mom in the back. Oh, but does the bad witch stay back? She
turns on her little charm, woofs, leaves a ball in front of my
mother…Well, it’s kind of cute …Then Mom tries to keep
up with us both. Her job isn’t easy either.
Mom came from work carrying a huge box. Of course, both
of us went crazy with excitement. One: Mom was home. Two:
A huge box, how fun it would be to rip it apart! She tore the
box in two, gave the bottom part to me, and the top part to
Esmer: quite fair. Esmer, that sneaky girl, naturally tried to
take both parts for herself. Mom took back the bottom part
of the box from her and gave it back to me; she waved her
finger at Esmer and warned her by making a “hmmmmm”
noise. She defends me. Then she went to take a shower, but
before she put the shoes, which she took out of the box into
the shoe closet. It’s not as if we can’t reach the shoe closet,
but we don’t, because then Mom gets mad and we don’t want
her mad at us. We want her to always love us.
When Mom went into the shower, I pretended as if Esmer
had once again forcefully stolen my part of the box, and
headed quietly (I’m very good at walking quietly) to the shoe
closet. I took the new shoes Mom had placed into the closet
and bit it all I could. Thank God I managed to damage it
sufficiently before Esmer came along. Of course, when the
bitch came she took the shoe straight out of my mouth. I
weigh 32 kgs, and she 22. My teeth are much larger but she
can be very crafty. And also, how should I say, I don’t bother
much to hustle and bustle around. Mom calls me lazy once in
a while. Whatever.
You should have seen Esmer, she was thrilled when she got
the shoe out of my mouth and did her own fair share of
ripping it. I, on the other hand, simply headed for the
kitchen, lazily, as if I were waiting to be fed. Mom got out
79
80
Annem bize çok az gerçekten k›zar. Genelde
birlikte çok e¤leniriz. Oraya buraya çoraplar
b›rak›r, ben de onun mahsus b›rakt›¤›n›
anlamazdan gelip güya onlar› çalar›m, kaçmaya
bafllar›m (bu dan›fl›kl› dövüflten haberi olmayan
Esmer sadece benim a¤z›mdakini almak üzere
peflimden fluursuzca koflmaya bafllar), annem
flakadan “yaramazlar sizi!” diye 盤l›klar atar nefle
içinde... Baflka oyunlar›m›z da var. Ama bu
sefer gerçekten k›zm›flt›. Herhalde akflam
babamla bir yere gideceklerdi ve annem o
ayakkab›y› giyecekti; sizin de anneniz varsa
onlar›n giyime kuflama, özellikle de ayakkab›ya
ne kadar düflkün olduklar›n› bilirsiniz. fiunu da
söylemem laz›m: Ben iki y›ld›r annemin
eflyalar›n› parçalamay›p sadece çal›yorum. Esmer
de ö¤rendi son zamanlarda gerçi, çal›nan mal
sadece a¤za al›nacak oyun için, maksat
parçalamak de¤il... Ama benim safdil sevgilim,
bakt› ki ben parçalam›fl›m (ki annem bazen
can›m›z›n s›k›ld›¤›n› görünce kutu, çorap, eski
terlik ne bulursa parçalay›p oynayal›m diye
çakt›rmadan önümüze atar, ama Esmer gibi çok
zeki olmayan köpekler için neyin parçalan›p
neyin parçalanmayaca¤›n› anlamak elbette zor
olabilir), Sar› parçalad›¤›na göre bu
parçalanabilir bir fley demek ki diyerek
ayakkab›y› bir güzel benzetti iflte anlatt›¤›m
gibi.... Annem gerçi flüphelenmedi de¤il...
Bana bakt› önce: “Sen mi çald›n bunu Sar›?”
dedi. Ama bu sefer akl›m› kulland›m: Suçlu
oldu¤um zamanlarda yapt›¤›m gibi kulaklar›m›
düflürüp gözlerimi yere devirerek yan yan
bakmad›m anneme. Kuyru¤u ve kulaklar› dik
tuttum. Annem suçlu de¤ilim zannetti. Bakt› ki
benden ç›kmam›fl ifl, Esmer’in o f›st›k popifline
bir flaplak... Ya... fiu anda kim daha sevimli,
Esmer Han›m?
of the shower, but when she saw her new shoe being
devoured by Esmer, she lost it! Mom never really gets
mad at us, only on rare occasions. Usually we have a
lot of fun together, she leaves socks all over the place
and I, pretending that she had not left them on
purpose, “steal” them and start to run (Esmer, who
has no idea of our game, just blindly runs after me to
get whatever is in my mouth), and mom screams “Oh,
you naughties!” We play other games as well, but this
time she was really, truly mad. She was probably
going somewhere with Dad tonight and was planning
on wearing that shoe; if you have a mother of your
own you probably know how much they like to dress
up, and how they are attached to shoes in particular.
Furthermore, I should add this detail: for the past
two years, I have only stolen my mother’s shoes,
I never rip or tear them. I mean, Esmer has been
learning recently too, that you just hold her stuff in
your mouth, not chew it. Ah, but my naïve love, once
she saw me ripping apart the shoe (Mom does throw
to us once in a while stuff that is meant to be ripped
apart, old boxes, socks, shoes, but dumb dogs like
Esmer can’t always distinguish what is to be ripped
and what is not), thought that she could do it as
well. It’s not as if Mom did not get suspicious of me,
she looked at me first and asked: “Sari, did you steal
this shoe?” But this time I used my head: I didn’t
droop my ears and cast my eyes to the floor,
as I usually do when I am guilty. No, I held my ears
and tail straight up, which lead my mom to
automatically assume that I am not guilty. And once
she reached this conclusion, a nice little spank to
Esmer’s cute butt followed! Guess who is cuter
now, Ms. Esmer?